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Women's fashionable head-dresses

This section includes several elements of head-wcar which were combined or developed over the period, sometimes producing spectacuiar results.

Hair played a significant part, borh decoratively and as a support. Women plaited their hair and used the plaits for display (Fig 2). From the late 13th century until the mid 14th, plaits were worn coiled at the sides to widcn the outline of the face. Hair nets (Fig 3) became fashionable in the mid 13th century, either worn alone or under the linen barberte and fillet (Fig 4), which is the characteristic fashion head-dress of the century, with the fillet in a dccorative role (PI 5).

The frilled and stacked veil (Fig .5) was a fashionable development of a simple veil. Veils were also worn over structured head-dresses such as templers, horns and hennins (PI 11).

Templers (Fig 9), which evolved from the side pockets of the caul (Fig 6), were succeeded by separate horns (Fig I 1), which for a large part of the I5th century was the main style for women of the F.nglish gentry. The shape changed gradually from a broad to a tali outline, whilc the associated veil became shorter. The very large head-dresses of the 15th century (Fig 13) do not seem to have been widespread in England. The tali hennin and its truncated 'flowerpot' form (Fig 15) were fashions of France and Burgundy, though the shorter 'butterfly' head-dress (Fig 16) was an F.nglish fashion.

Fine transparent veils were a feature of eiaborate head-dresses. The veil would be draped over a large horned head-dress or henin, and sometimes extended 'banner' style over a wire structure, as in Fig 15.

In selecting a head-dress, bear in mind that in practicc severa! different styles, including earlier ones, might be in use at the same time, depending on the rank and age of the wearer (PI I 1). In the 1470s, for example, an older woman might still be wearing horns (Fig Tl) while her daughters wore the 'butterfly' head-dress (Fig 16).

Without the support of plaits, some head-dresses may be difficult to wear. Modern women with short hair will necd to use falsc plaits (known in the I4th century) or be selectiee in their choice of head-dress. Modern colours, fringes and hairstyles will need to be hidden.

Materials

For this type of head-dress silks and gold braid are in order and offer the chance to be a little flamboyant.

Wide pair of 'horns' worn with a veil.

Brass to Alice Boleyn, Salle church, Norfolk, 1440

Fillets - Use bright-eoloured ribbon or fine fiat braid, or a fine rablet-woven band, for the visible fillets of the 14th and early 15th centuries. For hidden, supporting fillets, use dark-coloured velvet, which grips the hair and helps to support the larger stiffened shapes attached to them. Cauls, templers, horns and hennins - Use fine buckram or very firm interlining for stiffened shapes, velvet ribbon for binding edges so they grip well, and discrcct tapcs for supporting the components. Use real silk taffeta, satin or pattemed silk for covering.

A lining is part of the construction, though not scen in wear. Use a lightweight cotton, linen or silk.

Decorate with pearl beads and sparkly paillettes or sequins; these would havc been punched from metal, but modern plastic versions will serve in most contexts.

Work lattice patterns in fine gold or silver braid, or narrow silk ribbon. Use fine brass pins, sold as 'wedding dress' or lace-making pins, to hołd the parts together.

Veils - Use fine linen or cotton lawn for the earlier horned head-dresses. Silk organ za, which is light and crisp, is needed for the later transparent veils. Veils were normally rectangular, and some were very long and narrow.

Making up

Fine and accuratc sewing is required for head-dresses to look their best, as well as some creative flair for the shapes and arrangement of trimmings. Be realistic about your ability before attempting anything too ambitious. You will probably need help to fit and arrange the morę eiaborate ones.

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