58817 tmta 6

Women’s fashionable head-dresses

1.    Chaplets

These can be seen on well-dressed young women (and men) of the 13th century, though less often in the 14th. Girls and young brides might wear their hair flowing, often with a chaplet of flowers or a fillet of fancy ribbon.

A chaplet can be a plait of fresh flowers and leaves, silk flowers, or a length of silk braid or embroidered band tied round the head. Flowers should be appropriate for the season.

2.    Plaits, 14th and early 15th century

a.    Coiled plaits, often worn with a wimple and kerchief. Arranged to widen the outline of the head-dress (see Linen head-dresses, Fig 4c).

Plait the hair from just above the ears, coiling and pinning it at the sides.

b.    Vertical plaits, worn by richer women from about 1340. They were supported by a fillet, or possibly a circlet, and sometimes partly hidden by a linen head-dress.

Start the plaits above the temples, looping them in front of the ears and securing the ends behind the loops. Pin them through the ribbon. If the plaits are long they can be crossed at the back of the head as well.

c.    & d. Shorter vertical plaits, from about 1400. They would be worn with a smali veil attached to a fillet and arranged to fali behind the plaits (Gowns, Fig 3). The veil is shown here in faint outline, but should be of opaque linen.

Start the plaits above the temples, as for b, but pin them into tight buns. The fillet must be long enough to cross at the back and be brought forward round the plaits. Tuck the ends under and pin them at the front.

3. Hair nets, mid 13th to mid 15th century

Combinations like a & b can be seen in the first half of the 14th century.

a.    Hair net with veil and n&rrow fillet over it.

b.    Hair net with wimple and hood.

c.    Hair net with padded roli, first half of 15th century. See also Fig 14.

Medieval hair nets were madę of silk mesh edged with narrow tape or braid. The net was drawn under the hair and secured by pinning through folds in the braid.

Hair nets can be found in old-fashoned hairdressers, and saddlers or catering suppliers. Avoid heavy nets of crocheted wool or chenille.

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