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Women's beits are less often seen on contemporary illustrations. They were morę Iikely to be worn beneath the outer garment, hiding a suspended purse (Kirtles, Fig 1), or were hidden by skirts raised for walking and pouched over them. With the arrival of the gown in the late 14th century the belt became a feature of women's fashion. Nothing was hung from this belt: the lady either had somebody to carry her purse, or wore another belt under her gown.

Materials and fittings

Most belt straps were of leather, or tablet-woven linen, worsted or silk. Beits for everyday wear were generally narrow, 2-5 cm wide at the most. A modern plain leather belt is suitable, but good reproductions are also available. Tab!et-woven bands need to be finished with a tag end and a buckie piąte to enclose the ends and prevent them fraying. Some ladies' wide beits of the 15th century may have used embroidered materiał on a stiff backing.

Replicas of belt buckles, tag ends and decorative mounts from archaeological digs are available from traders. Metal tag ends were used on leather as well as textile beits. Buckles were often madę with a hinged buckie piąte to enclose the strap end. As well as the end fittings, studs and metal plaques were often riveted along the length of the strap for decoration.

2. Women‘s beits and purses

Most women wore narrow beits similar to those worn by men; those shown here are examples of the morę elaborate styles worn by wealthier women. a. Wide belt, second half of 15th century. The strap could be tablet-woven silk, or embroidered materiał mounted on a stiff backing, and long enough to reach the ground. The buckie is often worn out of sight at the back, showing the decorated strap at the front, and is madę with a hinged piąte enclosing the end of the strap.

b.    Slim belt, seen on some fitted gowns after 1475. The leather strap ends in fine chains, one with a hook and one with a pendant.

c.    Popular early Tudor belt. The fittings are large and heavy, and the strap is threaded across the buckie; the belt is often decorated with a repeating design.

d.    Simple drawstring purse, common throughout the period. It is lined for strength and has three tassels across the base. The purse hangs at about knee level from a belt; the drawstrings and hanging cord can be ordinary rayon cord or a round braid.

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