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Cotehardies

The cotehardie tended to be worn by younger people of means. With its close fit and extravagant button fastening it represented the new approach to tailoring which appeared around the middle of the 14th century. Older men and women continued to wear the morę established surcote, or later the gown.

Men's cotehardies

The cotehardie appeared at about the time of the doublet and was worn over it, often with peaked sleeves revealing the doublet sleeves at the lower arms (Fig 1). It was open at the front and the belt was worn outside, emphasising the slim linę (Figs 1, 2). The skirts soon became shorter. The hem might be dagged (Fig 2), often echoing the dagging of the hood worn with it, so the neck of the cotehardie was rarely seen.

The sleeves could be short, with streamers (added round the sleeve ends as facings) or 'tippets' (long peaks). Sometimes they were long and buttoned at the wrist.

Later in the 14th century young men gradually abandoned the cotehardie for the gown. A longer version, worn by older merchants and provincial gentry, persisted into the early 15th century.

Women's cotehardies

Women seem to have adopted tailored garments later than men, but for a short period about the 1370s they are seen in cotehardies. From the hips up they were similar to the małe version (Fig 3); the front was buttoned down to hip level where the bodice flared into long skirts. It was worn over a kirtle with a matching Iow neck, and long buttoned sleeves. A belt is not normally seen, though sometimes the cotehardie had fitchets or slits (Surcotes, Fig 5) through which to reach a hanging purse. A stacked, frilled veil, resting on the bare shoulders was often worn with it (Fashionable head-dress, Fig 5).

Materials

Good ąuality wool, preferably a broadcloth, is best, especially for a dagged hem (Methods, Fig 24). The cotehardie can be madę in two colours. Notę that parti-coloured garments are normally divided vertically, not horizontally - halved, but not ąuartered. It can be lined with linen, lightweight wool, or fur, or left unlined for a closer fit. The visible parts of sleeve ends were probably lined. Sleeve streamers (Figs 4, 7), often light-coloured, are madę from doubled strips of lightweight cloth. Make the buttons from the same cloth as the garment (Methods, Figs 19-21), or use shanked metal buttons.

1.    c.1340, English. Drummer

The earliest form of cotehardie, with buttons only to the waist. Long peaks (tippets) reveal doublet sleeves to the wrists; the neckline is hidden by the large hood. (Lutrell Psalter, British Library, MS Add 42130, f. 176).

2.    c.1350, English

Youth in narrow cotehardie with dagged hem. The neckline and upper sleeves are hidden by the hood, but the sleeves are probably part of the cotehardie, perhaps with a sleeveless doublet beneath. The hood is tight round the face, probably with buttons under the chin. (Detail from misericord, Gloucester cathedral).

3.    c.1360-80, English. Iseult

She wears a low-necked, buttoned cotehardie with extended cuffs which must be buttoned to fit. Her head-dress is a stacked, frilled veil. (Detail from misericord, Tristram and Iseult, Lincoln cathedral).

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