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13. Large horns, mid 15th century

Each horn is madę from a shorter inside section and a longer outside section, joined along a seam running from forehead to napę.

Each section of the horn is madę in three layers and finished separately. The main layer (buckram) is in the middle, with a lining and a fine outer materiał. This outer materiał could be pattemed or embroidered, or decorated with lattice work (Fig 8).

Try out some shapes in stiff paper before finalising your pattern. The left and right horns are the same. Cut out the four sections in buckram. Cover each section in the outer materiał (silk), adding any embroidery or lattice work at this stage and linę them (Methods, Fig 13).

Sew the finished inside and outside sections of each horn together round their outer edges, AB. Bind the open edges with velvet ribbon and oversew the horns together for a few centimetres over the crown. For frequent use the structure can be reinforced by stitching soft wire into the seams and round the open edges.

The head-dress is worn over a velvet fillet, perhaps with a loop (Fig 12). If the wearer has plaits they should be pinned above the ears to help wedge the structure in place. To complete the head-dress add either a padded roli, sewn in place and following the shape of the horns (Fig 14), or a fine silk veil draped over and between them (Gowns, Fig 22).

a. Earlier style. The horn is madę up of sections of equal width and similar outline. The outside section curves down over the ears: the inside section curves up to rest over the crown. The higher the inside curve, the morę upright the horn will sit on the head.

13b

b. Later style. By the mid 15th

century the horns were madę to fit closer together by cutting the inside section narrower than the outside. Altering the width of the sections will change the outline of the head-dress.

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