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6. Chaperon, mid 15th century, Pis 12,19
a. The finał development of the hood into a hat.
The classic chaperon is madę up from three parts (Fig 7). The liripipe and gorget (the earlier shoulder cape) are madę separately and sewn to a padded roli (roundlet), originally the rolled-back face opening. The roli sometimes appears quite solid and may have been felted.
b. Back view. The chaperon is often seen slung over the shoulder. It would stay in place by itself if the liripipe was long enough.
c. The liripipe used to secure the chaperon.
7. Cutting and making up Fig 6
a. Padded roli Cut a strip of cloth 15-25 cm longer than the head size. This length is the outside measurement of the roli: the inside will fit the wearer’s head. The width should be at least 20 cm; or up to 40 cm for an outsize version. Sew the strip lengthways into a tubę and stuff it with polyester wadding, cotton wool or a roli of soft felt or cloth. Tum in the ends of the tubę and oversew the ends firmly together to complete the ring.
b. Gorget Pattern outiine and madę up form. Plan and cut a flared piece of cloth, following the shape of the diagram. The narrower edge, AA, must match the inner dimension of the roli. The outer (here top) edge, is usually cut on a curve, BB, as shown, to hang level in wear.
The gorget may be lined or dagged (PI 4). Join the sides, AB, to form a tubę, matching the balance marks. Stitch the narrower edge of the tubę round the inside of the padded roli.
c. Liripipe Make this as a tubę, from a strip 10-25 cm wide and at least a metre long. It may be madę long enough to trail on the ground. Stitch the end firmly to the inside of the padded roli.
d. Gorget pattern & liripipe for black chaperon, Pis 12, 19. The gorget is 84 cm at the base and a maximum of 50 cm high. For dagging, which can be done before or after making up, see Methods, Fig 24.
The liripipe is a single strip of fabric, 120 cm long and 25 cm wide. Firmly steam-press it lengthways into a box-pleat before attaching it inside the padded roli.
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