18. Pleated gowns, middle 15th century
This style could be short, calf length (Pis 12, 13) or fuli length, depending on the age and status ot the wearer. The shape has been achieved by placing the side seam lines ot the flared bodice pattern on the Straight grain, and the CF and CB on the bias. Tubular pleats, formed by the wide flaring, follow the direction ot the slash lines on the pattern, either diagonally or vertically. They are stitched in place inside at the waist, to a stay band (P114).
The fuli length front opening is often hidden by the pleats and fastened by hooks and eyes. The neckline is plain or edged with fur, leaving the doublet collar visible, though the gown might still be madę with a standing collar (Fig 9). Sleeves are straight or tapered, sometimes slashed (Fig 16) with pleats at the shoulder which are supported by the padded sleeves of the doublet. This style was often lined or edged with fur [Methods, p. 53).
Making this style of gown requires considerable experience and care.
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