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Planning

Gowns are planned by adding skirts to a bodice adapted from the personal Błock (Blocks, Figs 25-27). The gown fits over the shoulders and flares towards the hem, which can be wide. They are cut in four panels with seams at CF, CB and sides. Most gowns are simply flared at the side seams. The basie steps are outlined below except for the gowns of Figs 18 & 28, which are planned by different methods, as explained in their captions.

The gowns described include Early buttoned and Short (Figs 4, 8), Early fashionable (Fig 12), Men's pleated (Fig 18), Woman's flared (Fig 24), and Woman's later fitted (Fig 28) versions. Instructions for each gown are given in the captions.

Men's gowns were usually calf- or ankle-length, or long enough to reach the ground, but could be as short as hip level. Women's gowns were long enough to lie on the ground all round and often had extra length at the back extending into a train.

It is safer to make a complete pattern rather than plan directly on the cloth. If you make your pattern on calico, rather than paper, you can tack it up for a fitting to try out the shape. If you work on paper, mark lightly in pencil until the shape is right; on fabric use pins, and chalk the finał outline. The fuli pattern pieces are shown laid out on cloth, with the straight grain indicated.

continued overleaf

Women's gowns

22.1460-65, French

The older woman, left, wears a fur-lined gown and I horned head-dress covered in a stiffened I transparent veil. The younger woman, right, has a morę fitted tight-sleeved gown and hennin, also with I transparent veil. The linę inside her gown neckline | may be the edge of a sheer kerchief, or a cord [ supporting a pendant. Both wear their belts above I the natural waist, and show different amounts of I kirtle front or stomacher inside the gown neck.

[ (Histoire de Helayne, Bibliotheque Royale, Brussels, MS 9967).

23. 1485, 1490, English

Left Late style of gown with separate collar dipping below the bodice edge at the front. There might be a waist seam under the wide belt, which is at waist level. Notę the generous length of her skirts. She wears an elaborate necklace and a 'butterfly' or truncated hennin head-dress. (Brass to Isabella Cheyne, Blickling church, Norfolk).

Right Less fitted version of the late style, pulled in by a belt. The flounced kirtle skirt is visible. The head-dress is a form of combined cap and hood. (Brass, Charwelton church, Northamptonshire).