tmta7

22 SP

20 cm

22. Sleeve for larger armhole

This method of adapting the sleeve Błock from Fig 20 applies for both men and women. Here it is used for the larger woman's Błock (Fig 19) and is based on the following measurements: Long arm length 60 cm; Sleeve head 58 cm; Top arm 37 cm; Wrist 16 cm. It should always be used where the sleeve head is over 60 cm.

The broken lines show the extra sleeve width applied to the underarm curve, extending BP outside its original position. Use the method of Fig 20, but limit the length of the upper curve to 30 cm, and put the additional length into the lower curve. This extends the lower curve beyond the construction linę, requiring a new back seam linę. Tracę off the extended draft to obtain the complete sleeve Błock.

Trying out the sleeve with the bodice Błock

Tracę off the sleeve pattern and cut out a pair of sleeves in calico or sheeting. Mark the Shoulder Point on the sleeve heads. Seam allowances should be added to the pattern, or drawn onto the fabric before cutting. Stitch the back seams, leaving a 10 cm wrist opening, and set the sleeves into your trial bodice: match the Shoulder Point of the sleeve to the shoulder seam of the bodice, and the sleeve seam to the Back Point, easing the fullness of the sleeve head into the armhole.

With the bodice fastened round the model the sleeves should allow free arm movement: try lifting a basket, or the movement of drawing a longbow! If the bodice is straining across the back it may need morę width. The high fit under the arms will feel unfamiliar at first. If it is cutting into you it is too high: lower the armhole on the Back and Front and try again.

Make a clean copy of the finał pattern on paper, with a list of measurements beside it for reference. This pattern is the sleeve Błock. It is used as a basis for different sleeves.

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