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b. Distance x-y is about 1.5 cm, reflecting a larger Top arm. Sleeve head is 43 cm, Top arm 31 cm. BP has been moved out, and UP up, to compensate, using Table 1.

c. Distance x-y is 6 cm, reflecting a smaller Top arm. Sleeve head is 50 cm, Top arm 27 cm. BP has been moved in to compensate. In this case Table 2 was used to fix the FP, BP, and UP positions.

Table 1

When x-y is up to 5 cm

	Distance from Shoulder linę
	(cm)
Mark FP on the Front linę	1/10 of sleeve head
Mark BP on the Back guide linę	1/10 of sleeve head - 1 cm
Mark UP on the Basic linę	1/5 of sleeve head - 1 cm

Table 2

When x-y is over 5 cm

	Distance from Shoulder linę
	(cm)
Mark FP on the Front linę	1/10 of sleeve head + 1 cm
Mark BP on the Back guide linę	1/10 of sleeve head
Mark UP on the Basic linę	1/5 of sleeve head

Drawing the sleeve head curves

The upper and lower curves together equal the sleeve head measurement. Their finał shape will require some adjustment, so draw them lightly at first.

Starting at FP, draw the upper curve to the Shoulder Point (SP), follow the Shoulder linę for 2-3 cm, and curve down to the Back Point (BP).

Draw the lower curve from FP through UP (its lowest point) to BP. Draw the curve between UP and BP in the shape of a very shallow S, as shown.

Using a tape measure on edge measure the upper and lower curves, which should be roughly equal. Adjust the curves until together they equal the sleeve head measurement. Flatten or swell the curves to make slight adjustments to the sleeve head; for greater adjustments move BP or UP in to reduce it, or out to enlarge it.

The seam linę

Draw a guide linę from BP down to the left Wrist point, and draw the Seam linę over.it, checking that it passes outside x. Its finał shape will depend on the model: on a short plump arm it may follow the guide linę almost exactly; on a thin arm it will curve in from the sleeve head. Leave it wide rather than narrow: it is easy to adjust the seam shape later.

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