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The kirtle is a shaped and fitted garment which probably appeared in the 1360s. Over the period it became increasingly close-fitting. It could be lined and was worn under an outer garment - at first partly visible under the sideless surcote (Surcotes, Fig 9 right) or the buttoned cotehardie (Cotehardies, Fig 7), later mainly hidden under the gown (Gowns, Figs 24, 28), or the overkirtle for working women (Overkirtles, Fig 2). The kirtle must match the outer garment in datę and style.

The kirtle as 'foundation' garment Throughout the first half of the 15th century, when women of status wore a loose enveloping gown, the kirtle gradually developed into the first 'foundation' garment. Towards the middle of the century, the bodice became tighter in an attempt to control and support the bust, while the skirt was madę with a flounce to hołd out the heavy skirts of the gown.

The kirtle as working dress By the early 15th century the basie kirtle seems to have been in generał use by working women. Simple to make, practical and graceful, it remained little changed for the rest of the century. Many working women wore two kirtles, one over the other (Fig 1); one on its own seems to have been unusual. The overkirtle is covered in a separate chapter, Outer working garments. Ali the kirtles in this chapter are designed to be worn as the main (inner) garment over a smock.

1.1480-1500, French. Countrywomen dancing Left A close-fitting overkirtle (dark blue, lined in brown) over a light-coloured kirtle with a hem flounce. Her smock shows round the neck. The overkirtle may have a waist seam, or the linę might be a fold of its tucked-up skirt. She wears a tailed cap, and the purse is visible.

Right Unusually she is wearing only her kirtle, with short sleeves and flounced hem. The front lacing shows her smock; a white apron hides the waistline. One smock sleeve looks gathered at the wrist, but not the other. She wears an old-fashioned scarlet open hood over a white cap or kerchief.

(Bibliothegue Nationale, Paris, MS Latin 873, f.21r)

Planning and cutting

Instructions for planning and cutting kirtles are given as captions to the Figures. They include basie (Fig 2) and flat-fronted with a waist seam (Fig 7) versions. Fig 3 shows how to adapt the neckline of the kirtle so that it will match the outer garment worn with it. Ensure also that the kirtle sleeves match.

Plan paper patterns for Back and Front using the personal Błock, and extend the skirts as described in Blocks, Fig 27. Don't make the skirts too wide: a 2.5 to 3 m hem is plenty. You can get this out of cloth 140-160 cm wide, folded lengthways (Fig 4). If the skirt is to have a flounce it can be narrower still.

Kirtle skirts must be just short enough to elear the feet. This is important: if the kirtle skirt is elear of the wearer's feet she can concentrate on controlling the much larger skirts of the outer garment.

You may prefer to try the pattern first in calico or sheeting.

To plan your garment use the wearer's personal bodice Błock. The fine lines show its original outline. The patterns shown here correspond approx. to modern size 14.

Heavy broken lines indicate alternative outlines. Letters indicate joining points. For abbreviations and symbols see p. 10. Check the side seam lines are of equal length and at the same angle. Add seam allowances and balance points.

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