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18a

18. Latchet fastening and garters

Latchet fastening was used on men‘s doublets, especially for tying on hose. The short laces for latchet fastening are known as 'points'.

On the front of a doublet work pairs of eyelets on each edge at regular intervals, not morę than 10 cm apart. Work nine pairs round the hip edge of the doublet and the top of joined hose. Add morę to close the hose front opening and secure the codpiece. Use the materials specified under Lacing and eyelets, 20-25 cm long and with aglets on both ends.

Garters were worn by women to hołd up short hose, and sometimes by men to puli in loose hose, or just for show.

a.    Shaped point, cut from hide, for heavy-duty wear.

b.    Loop for heavy points which will not slip undone.

c.    Half bow for finer cords (with aglets), here looped through single eyelets.

d.    Tied garter of worsted braid, and buckled garter with embroidered motto.

Garters, Fig 18d

These were worn just below the knee and over the calf muscle to support short hose, by women and sometimes by men. Simple garters were strips of soft braid or fabric tied in place. Morę elaborate garters were madę like miniaturę belts, with buckles, tag ends, and straps of silk braid or embroidery.

Buttons & buttonboles, Figs 19-21, Pis 2, 3 Buttons replaced sewing up as a wrist fastening for fitted sleeves in the 14th century, when a dozen per sleeve was ąuite normal for the clothes of the wealthy. In the 15th century this decreased to just one or two buttons at the wrist.

The first garment to be closed by buttons was the cotehardie, where they were set very close together, followed by the early gown. After 1400 buttons appeared on the workman's frock or coat. He often had just five, a number easy to position between neck and waist by folding.

The medieval button seems to have been round, with a loop or shank to sew it on, so modern pierced buttons are inappropriate. Buttons were sewn to the very edge of the garment and the buttonholes worked close to the other edge (Pis 2 & 3). The buttonholes were almost always on the wearer's left, for both sexes.

Buttons were often of cloth, or of cast metal. Some modern buttons make convincing substitutes, but they should be smali and at least look like metal; or cast reproduction buttons can be obtained from traders. Instead of sewing on metal buttons, you could work eyelets in the garment, pass the button shanks through them and hołd them in place behind with a cord threaded through the shanks.

Hooks and eyes

Hooks and eyes have existed sińce prehistorie times: in the 15th century they provided hidden fastenings on gowns. As they are hidden, ordinary large hooks and eyes are suitable for most uses. To avoid the garment slipping open sew hooks and eyes alternately, 5 to 10 cm apart, to each edge.

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