Yarn contcnt
There are different iaclors for felting and nonfelting fibers lo consider if you choose to make yarn eontent substitutions.
Felting Filer Substitutions
The felting fibers uscd iu tłiis bocVk are almost exclu$ivcly blendcd fibers. One of the qualitics that makes shibori unique is that shibori does nol rely on typical felting fibers of all wool or wool/moliair blends. Instead, the designs iaduded here and In most discipiines of liuditional shibori embrace the qualities only silk can deliver. So you will hnd that most of the felting fibers suggested are wool/silk blends or mohair/silk blends. If you choose to substitute felting fibers, plcase pay close attention to a few important properties.
For best results, if tl\e instruction calls for a fiber that is a blend of 60% mohair and 40% silk, make every effort to work with a fiber that is elose lo tliat percentage of mohair lo silk. For instancc, a fiber that is 70% mohair and 30% silk would be a fine substitute. A fiber that is 70% silk and 30% mohair would mtbe a working alternative.
The kcy thing to remernber about felting fibers is that there musi be a larger percen tu ge of felting fibers (wool/animal protein) than nonfclting fibers (silk protein, colton, bamboo, or synthclic fiber). Don't use a 50% silk, 50% wool yarn and hope for a good oulcome. However, you could use a 60% wool, 40% silk blend and expect things to tum out well.
So read those yarn labcls oarefully! For felting fibcis, choose fiber blends that are madę predominanlły of wool/ammal proteins— merino, mohair, alpaca, ćingora, and other ail-miural fibers that are animal protein (exduding silk proteins). Again, pay attention lo percentage m the blends. A greal rcfcrence on understanding fibers is The Knitters Book ofYarn, by Clara Parkes.
Nonfclting fiber SubstiUUious
Let's say a pattern calls for a 100% silk boucle for the non felting fiber. You go to your local yarn storo or find something fabulous onlinc, but it's not silk boucle. Instcad, you fali in love with a silk chenille, a 100% bamboo, or even a crunchy, cool collon. As long as the yarn weight is equivalenl to the yarn in the pattern, you can go with your preference. The key is that you doiTt sub-slitute a wool, wool blend, or any fclliug fiber for the nonfelting fiber. What makes so many of the shibori designs work is that sonie of the fibers Feli and sonie of ihem don't. The place w herc those fibers mcci makes a successful shibori piccc. Feel free to substitute whatever makes you happy, as long as it is not a fcll-ing fiber, and, again, make surę the yarn weight matehes!
It is iwverntive that you distinguish between the Iwo categories of fibers: felting and nonfelting. Once you have absorbed that infonnation and as long as you keep the yarn weighfe consistent willi the pattern recommendalion, you should be golden with your substitutions. For morę Information about understanding shibori fiber and making subslilutions, plea.se read the Appen-dix (page 118).
A last word about yarn substitutions
Be aware that, by making substitutions, you might produce ći iinished piece that is quite different from włiat is pictured. Ifor in stance, if you choosc lo make the Winę Lover's Scarf (page 32) out of pure wool, you may not gcl the słieen that is a na turni characteristic of tlić rccomniended silk/mohair fiber. Though you can successfully substitute one protein fiber for another (wool for silk/mohair), the finislied piece will not be exactly llie same.
1 shibori knits