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7. Boy's gown, 15th century
Schoolboy's gown first seen in the late 14th century and persisting in a few schools into modern times. The cut is like the plain adult gown (Gowns, Fig 4), but reaching only to calf or ankle, with perhaps 1.5-2 m round the hem, depending on size. It can be madę with or without a collar, and with plain or bag sleeves {Gowns, Fig 11). The gown might be worn over a long doublet and separate hose, either belted or left loose.
To plan boys' and girls' garments use a personal bodice Błock matching the wearer's age and figurę. Make a simple Błock for a child (Blocks, Fig 24) or an adult one for an adolescent. The patterns shown here fit chest size 70 cm (28 in) and height 134 cm (53 in) for the boy, and chest 78 cm (31 in) and height 152 cm (60 in) for the girl.
The fine lines show the original Błock outline. Heavy broken lines indicate alternative outlines. For abbreviations and symbols see p. 10.
Check that the side seams of the skirts are the same length and at the same angle to the construction linę on Back and Front. Add seam allowances and balance points.
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▼ ■—
20 cm
8. Bodice and sleeve for Fig 7
Tracę the Błock to waist only, then enlarge it (see Gowns, Fig 5), keeping the enlargement in proportion, but leaving plenty of room for movement - and growth.
This example shows a Błock for a 70 cm chest. Rule new CF and CB lines, here 0.5 cm outside the Błock. Move out and lower UR here 1.5 cm out and 1 cm down. Rule vertical side seams and redraw the armholes to match.
Collar - Plan the round 2-piece collar shown in Gowns, Fig 5a. Lower the neckline by 0.5-1 cm. Here the neckline a-c is 19 cm and a-b is 8.5 cm. Where a-c is less than 20 cm, as here, raise (a) by
0.5 cm and (c) by 1 cm. Collar height here is 4 cm. For making up see Methods, Fig 14a. You could leave the neckline plain instead.
Sleeve - Use the sleeve Błock, enlarging it to match the armhole as described in Blocks, Fig 25, and widening it a little at the wrist. Alternatively plan a bag sleeve, or one with pleats at the shoulder {Gowns, Figs 11,21).
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