To hand felt, work in a dean sink. Adjust the water temperaturę to vcry vvarm, hut not su hol you run the risk of burning your skin. Wet the fabric thoroughly. Then simply rub tire piece between your palms, working a smali section (no morę than 4"-5M [10em-12.5cm]) at a time. Continuc to work smali scctions nntil tłie enlirc piece meete your felting needs. Though this practice takes morę limę than machinę felting. it otfers moro contro! Rinse the piece, biot with towels, and allow to dry as dcscribed for machinę felting.
Patience
Remem ber, shibori rcquire$ patience. I know that culthating patience i«= not always casy. but it is imperative tor the success of shibori. I find it helpful to remember an old Chinese prov-erb: "One moment of patience may ward off greal disaster." Insert the word "knitting" jusl before "disaster" for an appro-prialc shibori mantra! Remember: You ran always fdt morę, but you caiinot un-felt. Always err on the side of undcrfclting!
Debunking myths about felting
My//f # 1: Felting uhunus shrinks.
Not with shibori. If you have added nonielling fiber to your piccc, the work may aclually grow after felting. Trust that 1 have taken that information into account when wriling these desigtis. If felting fiher is used cxclusively, the work will surely shrink. And when a nonfeltmg fiber is double-stranded with a felting fiber, the Iwo held together will also shrink—the felting fiber overpowers the nonielhng one. Bul if the felting aird non-iclting fibers are worked side by side, whicli is how several of the designs in this book are written, not every part will shrink. The amount of growth or shrinkage depends on which fiber type is uscd in greater proporlion. If you knit something that has mostly felting fiber, it will shrink. If you knit something that calls for mostly nonfeltmg fiber, it wili grow.
Myth # 2: Heariesł agitation equals better felting.
Nope. Again, shibori is its own animol. Many of the designs in this book recommcnd a felting fiber ihal is a subtle blend of silk and wool. Such blends respond morę positiveiy to gentle agitation. It may take a little Iongcr—two or three five-imnulc cycles in the machinę. This gives you morę control and morę opportunity to achieve the quality of fabric you desire. Morę important, it docs not stress the nonfeltmg fibers. 1 Jcavier agitation puts your nonfelting fiber at risk lor substantial stress and possible fraying, depending on the fiber uscd.
Finishing after felting
Finishing is where the magie of len happens with shibori. Particular characteristics of fibers will make themselves known before, during, and atter the felting proccss. Contrary to feltir.g lorę, silks make greal shibori companiuns lo felting fibers (as they do not felt or shrink); however, many silks appreciate an ironing to soften them again atter going through the rigorous proccss of telting. Beg:n with a cool iron (use tłie silk setting; most modem irons have this nolation). Working on the wrong side with a pressing dotli (a soft, all-cotton, Hght-colorcd dish-fowel), place the iron (never drag!) on the fabric. If the desired result is not achieved, remove the pressing cloth and try again or. the wrong side of the work. If you arc still not achieving the desired effect, work carefully on the righl side of the work, be-ing careful not to drag the iron.
Things Are Not IVkat They May Secm
Letting a piece air dry cumpktehjbefore making decisions about the success of the piece is vciy important. These arc the very words I wrote in my sketchbuok in response to felting the Wood Grain Scarf (but before allowing il lo dry fully): "UGLY!!! Make it again in a dificrent fiber. What a waslc of time " And my initial response after puiling the First Porlrall Scarf out of the machinę: "TOTAL BUST! I arn in despair."
But I looked at the Wood Grain Scarf again after it liad dried and complelcly changed my mind. As for the Portrait Scarf, 1 la ter went back and wrote in my book, "WRONG!! It is WAY COOL! Make it again!!!!"
The point is to lot your work dry before cłeciriing if you likc it or not.
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