28269 tmta0

b. Cutting diagram for a. Shaping is shown by fine lines. When the Back and Front are shaped at the shoulders they can be cut separately, as shown here. The long side gores can be used as they are, or shaped at the top for a closer fit. The sleeves are flared at the end, and shaped at the top (Fig 6b). Alternatively a 'transitional' sleeve (Cotes, Fig 9) could be used.

The fitchets are not shown on the plan; it is best to complete the garment and fix their position on the wearer (Methods, Fig 10; P11).

5. Woman's fashionable sleeved surcote, mid 14th century

a. Style. The body has shaped shoulder seams and armholes, and long side gores (modern size 12-14, Bust 90 cm). The slightly peaked sleeves and the fitchets (slits for access to the purse) are typical of the period.

b

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20 cm

120