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Cotes

This T-shaped main garment, also known as a tunic, was worn by both men and women of all classes from before the Norman conąuest until the middle of the 14th century. It was usually worn over body linen - shirt or smock - (Fig 1) and under a surcote (Fig 2). Because it was universal there was a great deal of variety in the ąuality of materiał, in the details of the cut and fit, and especially in the way it was worn and the accessories and head wear which went with it. It was normally worn with a belt.

The shape usually depended on the materiał and the wealth of the wearer: simple and fitted versions were probably in use at the same time, though in generał the cote became morę fitted after 1300. The distinguishing feature was the sleeves, so these need special attention. The cote gradually went out of use after 1340 with the new developments in tailoring, but it persisted for working people into the early 15th century. The simple, economical shapes also continued for some children throughout the 15th century. Cotes and surcotes - The cote is madę in the same way as the surcote, which can make identification difficult, though the surcote is an outer garment. Often the only difference is that the surcote is looser and has shortened sleeves. If an inner sleeve is visible it may indicate a cote under a surcote. A cote would be worn over linens, when white or cream might be visible beneath; a surcote would be worn over a cote or kirtle, which might be visible beneath in a different colour. If you can see a belt, or the garment pouched over it, you are probably looking at a cote (Fig 2).

MeiTs cotes

Men's status was reflected in the length as well as the materiał and cut of the cote. The king, noblemen and clergy wore them full-length; Professional men and older workers wore them calf-length. Workers, and young men in generał, wore their cotes to just below the knee (Fig 1; Pl 5). A cote might be split from waist to hem at centre front, and could reveal the braies and hose beneath. Workers often tucked up the two front corners into the belt, leaving the legs free (Pl 5). Calf-length cotes, common for travellers, could be split at the back as well as the front, for riding.

WomeiTs cotes

Women's cotes were always long to the ground, but a working woman would hitch the skirts up in a deep tuck over her belt, well elear of her feet, while a lady ensured her legs were hidden (Fig 2). By 1300 most women's cotes were shaped at the shoulders and underarms and by 1330 the body was likely to be fitted and laced, often indistinguishable from the kirtle which eventually replaced it.

Peasant women wore a simpler, loose cote to 1400 or after. Richer women wore the cote into the second half of the 14th century, later than their men.

The most elaborate styles are well suited to the female figurę. These used multiple long gores at the sides, which were shaped above the waist to give a close fit and a dramatic flarę over the hips. Some were just loose enough to puli on, but others must have been laced, either at one side or in a slash or seam at the front or back.

1.    Early 13th century. Basic form of short cote, with wide sleeves and slit neck, pouched over a hidden belt. Close-fitting shirt sleeves visible, head bare. (British Library, Royal MS 1 DXf.156).

2.    Early 14th century. Women dubbing rabbits Left Cote pouched over a belt: a long smock is visibie at the hem.

Right Sleeveless surcote over a cote, and a fine veil. Both are wearing side buns. (Queen Mary's Psalter, British Library, Royal MS 2 B VII, f. 156).

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