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Surcotes

'Surcote' is used here to describe a rangę of early outer garments worn over a main garment by both men and women. Most were related to the cote in both cut and construction, but the cote was normally worn with a belt, while the surcote was worn loosely over it. Like the cote, men's and women's versions showed some differences.

Men's surcotes

In the 13th century men wore either sleeved or sleeveless surcotes (Figs 1, 3). They abandoned the sleeveless form in the early 14th century just as women adopted it. Surcotes were usually at least calf length, but longer for older men or those of higher status. The surcote of the first half of the 14th century had the same elbow-length peaked sleeves (Fig 2; Frontispiece) as on women's, which gradually became morę pronounced. Openings in

1.    Early 14th century, English. Woman going to market

A simple bose surcote over a long-sleeved cote. Barę feet; cloth veil over wimple. (Book of Hours, British Library, MS Stowe 17, f.67).

2.    c.1340, English. Man removing surcote

Loose surcote with peaked sleeves, its edges bound or bordered. The cote within is loose enough to pouch over the unseen belt, but well fitted over the shoulders and upper arms. Well-fitted hose and ankle shoes. (Luttrell Psalter, British Library, MS Add 42130, f. 198)

the side seams gave access to the belt. Older men continued to wear this surcote until the later 14th century, though morę fashionable men seem to have abandoned it by the middle of the century.

The neckline, freąuently hidden by the cape of the hood, was usually round and large enough for the surcote to be pulled on without a front slit opening. The skirts could be slit at the front and back for riding.

Women's surcotes

Surcotes with sleeves - During the 13th century women's surcotes usually had sleeves, three-quarter length or longer, wide enough to show the sleeve of the cote (Fig 1). In the early part of the century the sleeve developed a 'peak', an extension below the forearm (Fig 2). By the 1370s the cotehardie or gown can be seen in place of the sleeved surcote.

3. c.1340, English. Woman in sleeveless surcote

The surcote is slit at the side and here worn with a belt. The cote sleeves are narrow but not buttoned; a single kerchief is swathed round head and neck. (Luttrell Psalter, British Library, MS Add 42130, f. 158).

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