tmta8

Outer working garments

Overkirtles

'Overkirtle' is used here as a convenient term to describe the common outer working garment for women throughout the 15th century (Fig 1). Women are rarely shown in a kirtle alone: the overkirtle would normally be worn over it.

The style varied in detail but the basie form was the same: a bodice slightly shaped to the waist, and skirts flared from the hips; a round neckline large enough to puli over the head, and sleeves set in plain. The sleeves could be short, though morę often long, and wide enough to roli above the elbows, leaving the sleeves of the kirtle or smock visible.

Overkirtle skirts could be ground length, but were generally hitched up for work, revealing the kirtle beneath and sometimes a lining. The belt was usually worn round the kirtle rather than the overkirtle.

Some overkirtles became tighter and morę fitted from the middle of the century, matching a similar trend in the kirtle. The most likely arrangement for fastening was a discreet laced opening in the back or side seam at the waist.

As a working dress it would be worn with a linen head-dress (Linen head-dresses, Figs 1-4) or plain hood (Clotb head-dresses, Figs 2, 3). Often a kerchief or wimple was used to fili the neckline.

1. c.1440, Flemish, P116

Background figurę from the painting, wearing a brown overkirtle lined with grey, turned up over a red kirtle. Black shoes, bare arms (for working) with smock sleeves rolled up, and white kerchief.

(Detail from St Lukę drawing the Virgin by Rogier van der Weyden, Groeninge Museum, Bruges).

1

Planning and making up

The pattern is adapted from the personal Błock (Blocks, Figs 25-27). Follow the instructions for Figs 3 & 4. Gut the lining, if used, from the same pattern as the outer materiał.

Making up is described in Methods, p. 46. You could brighten up the neck and sleeve ends by securing the lining with a few rows of simple embroidery stitches (Methods, Fig 23), or a band of applied ribbon. Loose-fitting overkirtles have no fastenings.

For a closer-fitting version use Fig 3, but with a smaller inerease on the bodice Błock. L.eave the left side seam open on both outer fabric and lining, from just below the armhole to hip level. Finish the opening (PI l), work eyelets down its length (Methods, Figs 16,17) and fasten by lacing.

To plan your garment use the wearer's personal bodice Błock. The pattern shown here corresponds approx. to modern size 14. The fine lines show the original Błock outline.

Letters indicate joining points. For abbreviations and symbols see p. 10. Check the side seam lines are of equal length and at the same angle. Add seam allowances and balance points.

Materials

A woollen cloth of light or medium weight is best, in a muted colour. For lining use woollen cloth or linen. White or undyed fabric is suitable. The garment could also be lined or edged with an inexpensive fur such as rabbit.

Women

Loose-fitting overkirtle

168