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Head-wear

Head sizes vary only slightly, so you can scalę up the patterns and adjust the fit on a toile. The key measurement, Head size, is normally taken round the forehead, above the ears, and round the napę. The Slip on measurement, for closed hoods, is the size which will slip freely over the head. Some styles must be measured and fitted individually.

Fine broken lines indicate Centre lines of pattern pieces, Fold lines or gathering lines. Heavy broken lines indicate alternative outlines. Letters indicate joining points. For abbreviations and symbols see p. 10.

This chapter covers a variety of head-wear for men and women, listed generally by type, though not all examples fali readily into categories. A head-dress should of course match both the period and style of the rest of the outfit (Preparation, p. 13).

Men's hats and caps

This section covers most kinds of hat, including some sewn cloth types. Other cloth hats, including the chaperon, are included with hoods in the next section.

In the 13th century men often went bareheaded, or wore a close-fitting linen coif (Fig 5; Braies, Fig 1). Hats (and hoods) were functional rather than fashionable (PI 5). For most of the 14th century the hood was predominant, though a felt hat (Fig la) might be worn over it to keep the rain off. About the second quarter of the 15th century the hat became an item of fashion (Figs 1-3). By the third quarter hats were replacing the hood, and were usually tali and often brimless (Pis 9, 11). By the 1470s soft cloth hats such as the square cap (Fig 6) were coming into use. By this time the hat might be attached to a long scarf-like tippet and hung over the shoulder like the chaperon.

Knitted caps (Fig 3) were in use front the 14th century and possibly earlier.

Women rarely wore hats, and when they did it was for protection against the weather.

Hats are often associated with particular activities, for example the pilgrint's wide-brimmed felt hat with its scallop shell badge, and the peaked hat seen on huntsmen (Fig lc). The liilen coif was retained mainly by lawyers after going out of generał use.

By the 15th century you would be expected to rentove your hat to a superior, or on entering a church. Smart men might put their hats under one knee when praying, to protect their hose.

Materials and patterns Most of the hats described are specialist products, but some can be madę or modified at home. Re-enactment or theatrical suppliers carry most shapes of felt hat. Many modern hats, whether felt, straw or fur, are suitable if modern trimmings are removed and replaced with appropriate cords or braids. Charity shops are good places to look for hats.

Patterns for coifs and cloth hats are shown in Figs 5 & 6. They can be madę from oddments of materiał, but careful measurement and fitting is important.

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