Easy,

eclectic style

Add an unusual vintage bead to your repertoire

by Judy Lapotko

N

ail head beads are pressed glass,
faceted sequin-like embellishments
that were sewn on mourning

clothing to add subtle interest during the
Victorian era. They continued to be used
in fashion until the 1920s. Today they
can add an even more interesting
element – and find a whole new life – in
a necklace or bracelet. Known as
“French Jet,” they were made of black
glass in Bohemia (Czech Republic).
They have a flat back and an irregularly
domed top, which led to the term “nail
head.” While some nail heads are plain
black, many have a permanent coated
finish that gives them a green, blue, or
purple iridescence.

In 1861, when Queen Victoria’s

husband Albert died, she went into
permanent mourning and started an
international fashion trend for mourners
by having all her black clothing embel-
lished with real jet beads (made of
lignite). By 1880, demand for jet had
grown to such a level that genuine jet,
which was mined primarily in Whitby,
England, became very scarce. The result
was the development of faux jet in
Bohemia for the French fashion industry.
“French Jet” beads, as they were called
were made of black glass. The nail head
variety with its flat back was sewn
directly onto garments. These tiny,
turn-of-the-century jewels were
rediscovered during the last 20 years in
old warehouses and factories that were
bought out in France. Today, you can
find nail head and other French Jet
beads (cane, tooth, diamond, and leaf
shapes) at bead shops that carry vintage
beads and online at joolsupplies.com
and bagladybeads.com.

I like to combine them with oxidized

metal and other vintage glass beads to

create an unusual look and feel. The
necklace shown here uses a repeating
pattern that I’ve alternately reversed.
This gives the sense of eclectic
randomness with an underlying order.
Depending on the outfit, I wear my
necklace as a long single strand or
double it.

step

by

step

This necklace consists of four pattern
repeats from disk to disk, alternately
reversed. You may prefer to establish
your own pattern repeat on a bead
design board before stringing.

Tape one end of the beading wire to

prevent the beads from falling off.

String the following pattern: disk,

Bali spacer, clay spacer, 2 nail heads,
metal accent bead, 6 nail heads, Bali
spacer, glass bead, Bali spacer, 3 nail
heads, Bali spacer, glass bead, Bali
spacer, 6 nail heads, Bali spacer, clay
spacer, Bali spacer 6 nail heads, Bali
spacer, glass bead, Bali spacer, 6 nail
heads, metal accent bead, 3 nail heads,
clay spacer, Bali spacer, disk.

String the same pattern but in

reverse order. Omit the first disk bead.

String the pattern in the same order

as step 2, omitting the first disk.

String as in step 3, omitting the first

and last disk.

String a crimp, go through one of

the rings on the clasp and back through

the

crimp and a few beads. Tighten the wire
until it forms a small loop around the
clasp ring, then crimp the crimp bead
(see “Basics” in online content). Trim
the wire tail.

Snug up all the beads on the wire,

remove the tape, and repeat step 6 at
this end. Make sure no wire shows
between beads before you crimp.

w

Contact Judy in care of Bead&Button.

2

b e a d a n d bu t t o n . c o m

materials

•128 4mm Nail heads
•12 10-12mm Off-round vintage or new red

glass beads

•8 7mm Metal accent beads (these

polyhedrons are from Nigeria)

•4 11 x 7mm Silver disk beads
•40 3 x 5mm Bali spacer beads
•12 4mm Clay spacer beads, brick red
•2 Silver crimp beads, tube style preferred
•40 in. (1m) Flexible beading wire, .014-.015
•1 S-hook clasp with 2 soldered rings
Tools: diagonal wire cutter, crimping pliers;
optional bead design board

Order online at

www.beadandbutton.com/promo

Enter code I3D2

or call 800-533-6644

Monday-Friday, 8:30am-5:00pm Central Time. Outside the U.S. and Canada, call 262-796-8776.

With every issue of Bead&Button
magazine, you’ll get 20+ beading
projects, complete with step-by-
step illustrated instructions.You’ll
also get shortcuts, solutions, tips,
techniques, and inspiration for
your work.

Creative Ideas for the Art of Beads and Jewelry

Create

stunning gifts

20+

projects

in every

issue

Make fashionable jewelr

y

Stylish designs for

necklaces,

bracelets,

and earrings

Projects for all levels-

from beginner to advanced

www.beadandbutton.com

IT’S FUN! Make jewelr

y like a pro

Create Fashionable Jewelry with

Bead&Button Magazine!

Subscribe

Today!