� Lonely Planet Publications
464 lonelyplanet.com DIREC TORY " " Accommodation 465
PRACTICALITIES
Directory
There are four types of plugs  three-pronged angled pins (as in Australia), three-pronged

round pins (as in Hong Kong), two flat pins (US style but without the ground wire) or two
narrow round pins (European style). Electricity is 220V, 50 cycles AC.
that range across the spectrum from two- to
five-star through budget, midrange and top The standard locally published English-language newspaper is the China Daily (www.china

CONTENTS
end. Hotels are called either b%2łngu�
n (�[ą�), daily.com.cn). China s largest circulation Chinese-language daily is the People s Daily (R�nm�n
Accommodation 464
ji�
diąn (Rę^), dąji�
diąn ('YRę^), fąndiąn R�bąo). It has an English language edition on http://english.peopledaily.com.cn. See www
Business Hours 466
(m�^) or dąfąndiąn ('Ym�^). .onlinenewspapers.com/china.htm for a more exhaustive list.
Children 467
Be warned that the star rating at China s
Imported English-language newspapers such as the Times, International Herald Tribune, Asian

Climate Charts 467
hotels can be misleading. Hotels are often
Wall Street Journal, Financial Times and South China Morning Post can be bought from five-star
Courses & Activities 468
awarded four or five stars, when they are pat-
hotel bookshops, as can imported English-language international magazines such as Time,
Customs 468
ently a star lower in ranking.
Newsweek, Far Eastern Economic Review and the Economist.
Dangers & Annoyances 468
When checking into a hotel you must com-
Embassies & Consulates 469 Listen to the BBC World Service (www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice/tuning/) or Voice of America

plete a registration form. A copy of this is sent
Festivals & Events 470 (www.voa.gov). China Radio International (CRI) is China s overseas radio service and broad-
to the local Public Security Bureau (PSB). The
Food 471 casts in about 40 languages. The national TV outfit, Chinese Central TV (CCTV), has an
form will ask what type of visa you have. For
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 471 English-language channel  CCTV9. CCTV4 also has some English programmes. Your hotel
most, the type of visa is  L , from the Chinese
Holidays 471 may have ESPN, Star Sports, CNN or BBC World.
word for travel (l�
x�ng). For a full list of visa
Insurance 471
categories, see p476. China officially subscribes to the international metric system, but you will encounter the
Internet Access 472
ancient Chinese weights-and-measures system that features the li�
ng (tael, 37.5g) and the j%2łn
The policy at most hotels is that you check
Legal Matters 472
(catty, 0.6kg), which are both commonly used. There are 10 li�
ng to the j%2łn.
out by noon to avoid being charged extra.
Maps 472
The Chinese method of designating floors
Money 472
is the same as that used in the USA, but differ-
Passports 473
ent from, say, that in Australia. What would such as Gu�l�n (p154), Kk
nm�ng (p220) and Certain temples and monasteries (espe-
Photography & Video 474
be the ground floor in Australia is the 1st floor Y�ngshu� (p166). Expect dorm rooms here cially on China s sacred mountains) can pro-
Post 474
in China, the 1st is the 2nd, and so on. to kick off from around Y25 in a four- to vide accommodation. They can be very cheap,
Shopping 474
A deposit (źbŃę; y

j%2łn) is required at most six-bed dorm. Hostel facilities will generally but extremely ascetic, with no running water
Telephone 474
hotels; this will be either a cash deposit, or include common internet access, washing or electricity.
Time 475
your credit card details will be taken. If your machine, a DVD machine for common use
Toilets 475
deposit is paid in cash, you will be given a (with films), notice board, lockers, perhaps a Midrange
Tourist Information 475
receipt, which you should hold on to, for later caf� or bar, and bicycle rental. Beyond dorms, Midrange hotels (three to four stars) offer
Tours 475
reimbursement. Credit cards can usually be many youth hostels also have single and comfort and a measure of style, but are often
Travellers with Disabilities 476
used for payment at three-star hotels and up, double rooms. Staff are young, speak good bland and unimaginative. You should find
Visas 476
but always check beforehand. English and can be very helpful for travel someone who can speak English, but other
Women Travellers 477
Single males at midrange hotels are rou- advice. Certified youth hostels should carry language skills are often problematic. When
tinely pestered on the phone by girls provid- the  Hostelling International logo, but a huge making a choice, opt for Sino-foreign joint-
ing massage (ąnmó). number of independent hostels also exist. venture hotels over Chinese-owned hotels,
ACCOMMODATION For a list of youth hostels in China, see www wherever possible. Furthermore, opt for newer
Hotels in this book are divided into three cat- Budget .chinayha.com and look out for its handy establishments and chain hotels over older
egories: budget, midrange and top end. The Until recent years, foreigners were barred guide listing current hostels (available from midrange options. Rooms will all come with
majority of rooms in China are  twins , two from very cheap guesthouses as a matter of youth hostels). Useful online hostel booking air-con and may have cable TV or an in-house
single beds placed in one room. Single rooms course, but times have changed and increasing websites include www.hostelworld.com and movie channel and telephone, and should also
(one bed per room; US��; d

nji

n) are rare. numbers of bargain accommodation options www.hostelbookers.com. come with kettle (and coffee sachets), water
Double rooms (�S�N?b; shu

ngr�nf�ng; also now accept Westerners. Chinese guesthouses tend to congregate cooler, safe and minibar, and there should
called hĆQ��; bi

ozh�
n ji

n) are often twin, Rooms in family homesteads (nóngji

)  near bus and train stations and can offer beds be broadband internet connection. You may
with two beds. Suites (WY?b; tąof�ng) are avail- typically family homes in smallish villages in shared rooms (typically with shared loo and receive a free newspaper, but at best only the
able at most midrange and top-end hotels. and towns with a handful of rooms  cost as shower) for as low as Y10 per night. They can China Daily.
China s Southwest has a wide variety of little as Y10 a night. English skills will be non- be handy but are often grubby and housed in
accommodation options, from rudimentary existent, but you won t get any cheaper. Own- characterless buildings; English skills will be Top End
rooms in cheap family homesteads (śQś[; ers can usually cook up meals and travellers minimal or zero. If looking for a cheap room, Whenever possible, aim for luxury interna-
nóngji

) to inns (ó[h; kŁzhąn), youth hostels can get closer to the authentic China. always be on the lookout for the characters tional chain hotels that have a proven stand-
(Rt^�e>y; q%2łngni�n l�
shŁ), cheap Chinese Youth hostels (q%2łngni�n l�
shŁ) typically  g?b (y�
uf�ng; literally  room available ) on ard of excellence and quality across the board
guesthouses (�b_@b; zh

odąisu�
) and hotels cluster in the big backpacker destinations, boards outside shops and establishments. when opting for top-drawer accommodation.
D I R E C T O R Y
DIRECTORY
THUMB TAB
466 DIREC TORY " " Business Hours lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com DIREC TORY " " Children 467
Average
Staff speaks better English and standards are rooms should be well below the rack rate and In X%2łshu

ngb�
nną most government build- CH�NGDż 507m (1666ft)
Max/Min
more closely approximate to international rarely booked out. At reception, discounts of ings operate on the siesta system and working �C Temp �F in Rainfall mm
40 104 16 400
standards, as opposed to top-end Chinese- 10% to 50% off the tariff rate are possible, hours are normally around 8am to 11.30am
owned hotels that mainly cater to Chinese and around 30% is typical. Booking online is and then 3pm to 6pm or even 8pm.
30 86 12 300
guests. an excellent way to secure a good price on a Travel agencies and foreign-exchange
Five-star hotels should be equipped with room, and should be the first place you look. counters in tourist hotels and some local
20 68 8 200
top-notch sport (including swimming pool Often you actually get a discount by booking branches of the Bank of China have similar
10 50 4 100
and tennis courts), recreational and shop- through an agency  and these can be sub- opening hours, but are generally open on Satur-
ping facilities, and there should be a wide stantial, up to 40% to 50% off the walk-in rate day and Sunday as well, at least in the morning.
0 32 0 0
J F M A M J J A S O N D J F M A M J J A S O N D
selection of dining options and ATMs that (although don t use Chinese online agencies, Post offices and telecommunication offices usu-
take international cards. Five-star hotel rooms which simply offer rates you can get from a ally stay open to at least 7pm and many are open
Average
will have a kettle (and coffee sachets), safe, hotel itself). A useful accommodation website 24 hours. Internet caf�s are either open 8am to
GU�Y�NG 1071m (3513ft)
Max/Min
minibar, satellite or cable TV, broadband in- for travellers booking accommodation is CTrip midnight, or more popularly, 24 hours.
�C Temp �F in Rainfall mm
ternet connection, free newspaper (typically (%800 820 6666; www.english.ctrip.com). Airports at Many parks, zoos and monuments are also
40 104 16 400
the International Herald Tribune) and nightly major cities may have hotel-booking counters open on weekends and often at night.
30 86 12 300
turndown. with discounted rates. Restaurants are generally open from around
Superior comfort should also be available 10.30am to 11pm or midnight; but some shut
20 68 8 200
on executive floors, which typically provide BUSINESS HOURS at around 2pm and reopen at 5pm or 6pm,
4 100
free drinks upon arrival and in the afternoon, China officially works a five-day week. Banks, others are open through the night. The Chi- 10 50
complimentary breakfast and business facili- offices and government departments are nese are accustomed to eating earlier than
0 32 0
0
ties. All hotel rooms are subject to a 10% or normally open Monday to Friday (but some Westerners, lunching at around midday and
J F M A M J J A S O N D J F M A M J J A S O N D
15% service charge. banks are open limited hours at weekends as having dinner in the region of 6pm.
well). Most open around 8.30am, possibly Department stores and shops are generally
Average
KżNM�NG 1891m (6206ft)
Max/Min
Discounts & Reservations closing for one to two hours in the middle of open 10am to 10pm, seven days a week. Note
�C Temp �F in Rainfall mm
It is essential to bargain for rooms at reception the day, before reopening until 5pm or 6pm. that some businesses in China close for three
40 104 16 400
as discounts are always in force in all but the Saturday and Sunday are both public holidays, week long holidays.
cheapest accommodation options. Apart from but many museums stay open on weekends 300
30 86 12
during the busy holiday periods (first week and close one or two days during the week CHILDREN
20 68 8 200
of May and October and Chinese New Year), instead (usually Monday). Children will feel more at home in China s prin-
cipal points of entry (Hong Kong, B%1łij%2łng and
10 50 4 100
Shąngh�
i), but could feel out of place in smaller
0 32 0 0
HOTEL PRIMER
towns and in the wilds of the Southwest.
J F M A M J J A S O N D J F M A M J J A S O N D
Baby food, milk powder, nappies and other
hotel fąndiąn/ji�
diąn/dąji�
diąn m�^/Rę^/'YRę^
essentials are widely available in supermar-
single room d

nji

n US��
Average
N�NN�NG 72m (239ft)
Max/Min
kets. Practically no cheap restaurants have
double room shu

ngr�nf�ng �S�N?b
�C Temp �F in Rainfall mm
baby chairs and finding baby-changing rooms
triple room s

nr�nji

n N�N��
40 104 16 400
is next to impossible. Ask a doctor specialised
quad s�r�nji

n �V�N��
in travel medicine for information on recom-
suite tąof�ng WY?b
30 86 12 300
mended immunisations for your child.
bathroom wŁish
ngji

n kSu��
Admission prices to many sights and muse- 20 68 8 200
key yąoshi Ą"S
ums have children s rates, usually for children
lift diąnt%2ł 5uŻh
10 50 4 100
under 1.1m to 1.3m in height. Always ensure
visa qi

nzhŁng ~{��
that your child carries a form of ID and a hotel 0 32 0 0
broadband ku

ndąi �[&^
J F M A M J J A S O N D J F M A M J J A S O N D
card, in case they get lost.
reception z�
ngt�i ;`�S
passport hłzhąo ńbgq
CLIMATE CHARTS the heat. S�chu

n is foggy and cloudy all the
deposit y

j%2łn źbŃę
China s Southwest generally enjoys a pleas- time; Chóngq�ng is sweltering.
youth hostel q%2łngni�n l�
sh� Rt^�e>y
ant climate, but large regional differences Winters vary in intensity according to alti-
TV diąnsh� 5uĆ�
exist; as a general rule temperature is ruled tude so you ll need to bring a varied wardrobe.
telephone diąnhuą 5uŻ�
by altitude. In Yśnn�n, winters are short and cold north
air-con kM
ngti�o zzŚ
Summer lasts from around May to August. of more clement Kk
nm�ng, especially as the
taxi chk
zk
ch
śQ�yfŹ
X%2łshu

ngb�
nną in southern Yśnn�n experi- land ascends into Tibet. Northern Gu�
ngx%2ł
check out tu�f�ng �?b
ences a mild monsoon during this period, sees temperatures dropping to freezing from
discount zh�k�u Śbcb
when the most rain falls in Gu�zhM
u. High November to February. Temperature statis-
toilet paper wŁish
ngzh�
kSu�~
spots like �m�i Sh

n are a great relief from tics don t really indicate how cold it can get,
D I R E C T O R Y
DIRECTORY
468 DIREC TORY " " Courses & Activities lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com DIREC TORY " " Embassies & Consulates 469
so bring very warm clothes. The mountain- China, it may be a good idea to have some Spitting DC, 20007); Chicago (%312-803 0098); Houston (%713-
ous areas in the west of S�chu

n freeze at this scissors handy for on-the-spot editing. Campaigns to stamp out the practice have 524 4311); Los Angeles (%213-380 2508); New York
time, as does much of Gu�zhM
u. The warmest been partially successful in the major urban (%212-330 7410); San Francisco (%415-563 9232)
regions in winter are found in X%2łshu

ngb�
nną DANGERS & ANNOYANCES centres  there is less public spitting in
and the south coast of Gu�
ngx%2ł, which re- For information on bird flu, consult the Gu�
ngzhM
u, Shąngh�
i and B%1łij%2łng these days Embassies & Consulates in China
mains a balmy 24�C to 27�C (75�F to 80�F). Health chapter. (some areas impose a Y50 fine), but in the EMBASSIES IN B
IJ*
NG
The cooler seasons of spring (March and country, the phlegm still flows. Embassies in B%1łij%2łng are open 9am to noon
April) and autumn (September and October) Crime and 1.30pm to 4pm Monday to Friday, but visa
are the best times to visit the region. The China we see in the Western (and Chi- Transport departments often open only in the morning.
nese) media  Shąngh�
i s glittering high-rises, Your greatest danger will almost certainly be Australia (%010-6532 2331; www.austemb.org.cn; 21
COURSES & ACTIVITIES fleets of black Audis and stock-market win- crossing the road, so develop avian vision and Dongzhimenwai Dajie)
Travellers are increasingly making the overall ners  is a fabulously warped take on China. a sixth sense. Crossing only when it is safe Cambodia (%010-6532 2790; fax [phone];
journey to China an educational experience. For the majority of the population, China to do so could perch you at the side of the 9 Dongzhimenwai Dajie)
Whether it s traditional Chinese medicine, tai- remains very poor indeed and yawning road in perpetuity, but don t imitate the local Canada (%010-6532 3536; www.beijing.gc.ca;
chi, learning Mandarin or turning your hand disparities between rich and poor generate tendency to cross without looking. China s 19 Dongzhimenwai Dajie)
to Chinese cooking, visitors are aiming to crime. Gu�zhM
u province, for example, is very roads kill without mercy, with an estimated France (%010-8532 8080; www.ambafrance-cn.org;
learn a skill while in China. Y�ngshu� (p169) destitute in areas and parts of Yśnn�n are 600 traffic deaths per day (World Health Org- 3 Dongsan Jie)
is a popular place to learn both taichi and impoverished. anization figures), and are the major cause Germany (%010-8532 9000; www.deutschebotschaft
kung fu, and Chinese cooking and language Most crime, however, occurs between Chi- of death for people aged between 15 and 45. -china.org; 17 Dongzhimenwai Dajie)
classes can similarly be found in the village. nese people and travellers are generally, but Many cheaper long-distance buses still come India (%010-6532 1908; www.indianembassybeijing
When selecting a Chinese-language school, not exclusively, left alone. Visitors are usually without seatbelts. Taxis frequently only have .org.cn; 1 Ritan Donglu)
talk to other students beforehand. Mandarin is victims of petty economic crime, such as theft, seatbelts in the front passenger seat. Ireland (%010-6532 2691; fax [phone]; 3 Ritan Donglu)
the most commonly taught dialect, but classes rather than serious crime. Incidences of crime Italy (%010-6532 2131; www.italianembassy.org.cn;
in Cantonese also exist. Several schools in increase around the Chinese New Year (p470). EMBASSIES & CONSULATES 2 Sanlitun Dong Erjie)
Y�ngshu� offer free food and accommoda- Certain cities are worse than others  Gu�y�ng Embassies & Consulates of the Japan (%010-6532 2361; fax [phone]; 7 Ritan Lu)
tion in exchange for English lessons; see p171 is notorious. People s Republic of China Abroad Laos (%010-6532 1224; 11 Dongsi Jie)
for details. Chinastudies.com (www.chinastudies.com) Hotel rooms are generally safe, but dorms For a full list of diplomatic representation Malaysia (%010-6532 2531; fax [phone];
runs Chinese medicine, massage and fengshui require more care. All hotels have safes and abroad go to the Ministry of Foreign affairs 13 Dongzhimenwai Dajie)
courses in China. storage areas for valuables  use them. website at www.fmprc.gov.cn/eng/. Myanmar (Burma) (%010-6532 0359; www.myan
For a rundown on outdoor activities in the Violence against foreigners is not common, Australia (www.chinaembassy.org.au) Canberra (%02- marembassy.com; 6 Dongzhimenwai Dajie)
region, see the Southwest China Outdoors but does exist. Again, financial motives are in 6273 4780, 6273 4781; 15 Coronation Drive, Yarralumla, Nepal (%010-6532 1795; fax [phone]; 1 Sanlitun
chapter. the main and foreigners have been killed for ACT 2600); Melbourne (%03-9822 0604); Perth (%08- Xi Liujie)
their valuables, or killed when resisting theft. 9321 8193); Sydney (%02-9699 2216) Netherlands (%010-6532 0200; fax [phone];
CUSTOMS Solo travellers are most at risk, so travel in Canada (www.chinaembassycanada.org) Ottawa 4 Liangmahe Nanlu)
Chinese customs generally pay tourists little groups. (%613-789 3509; 515 St Patrick St, Ottawa, Ontario K1N New Zealand (%010-6532 2731; www.nzembassy
attention. There are clearly marked  green If something of yours is stolen, report it 5H3); Calgary (%403-264 3322); Toronto (%416-964 .com/china; 1 Ritan Dong Erjie)
channels and  red channels . Duty-free, you re immediately to the nearest Foreign Affairs 7260); Vancouver (%604-736 3910) Singapore (%010-6532 3926; www.mfa.gov.sg
allowed to import 400 cigarettes or the equiva- Branch of the PSB. They will ask you to fill France (%01 47 36 02 58; www.amb-chine.fr; 9 Ave V /beijing; 1 Xiushui Beijie)
lent, two bottles of wine or spirits and 50g in a loss report before investigating the case Cresson, 92130 Issy les Moulineaux, Paris) South Korea (%010-6505 2608; www.koreaemb.org.cn;
of gold or silver. Importing fresh fruit and and sometimes even recovering the stolen Japan Tokyo (%03-3403 3389, 3403 3065; 3-4-33 Moto- 3rd & 4th fl, China World Trade Center, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie)
cold cuts is prohibited. You can legally only goods. For travel insurance purposes (very Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106); Fukuoka (%92-713 1121); Sweden (%010-6532 9790; www.swedenabroad.com;
bring in or take out Y6000 in Chinese cur- recommended), it is essential to obtain a loss Osaka (%06-445 9481); Sapporo (%11-563 5563) 3 Dongzhimenwai Dajie)
rency. There are no restrictions on foreign report. Malaysia Kuala Lumpur (%03-242 8495; 229 Jalan Thailand (%010-6532 1749; www.thaiembassy
currency; however, you should declare any Photocopy the information page and visa Ampang, Kuala Lumpur); Kuching (%82-453 344) .org/beijing; 40 Guanghua Lu)
cash exceeding US$5000 (or its equivalent in page of your passport in the event of theft. New Zealand Wellington (%04-587 0407; 104A Korokoro UK (%010-5192 4000; www.uk.cn; 11 Guanghua Lu)
another currency). Rd, Petone, Wellington); Auckland (%09-525 1589) USA (%010-6532 3831; http://beijing.usembassy-china
Anything made before 1949 is considered Scams Singapore (%65-734 3361; 70 Dalvey Rd) .org.cn/; 3 Xiushui Beijie)
an antique and needs a certificate for export; Scams are rife in China. Ostensibly friendly Thailand (%02-245 7032/49; 57 Th Ratchadaphisek, Vietnam (%010-6532 1155; fax [phone]; 32 Guanghua
objects manufactured before 1795 cannot le- types invite you for tea or an expensive meal Bangkok) Lu)
gally be taken out of the country. of snake meat and confess they have no money UK (www.chinese-embassy.org.uk) London (%020-7636
Some travellers have had their Lonely when the bill arrives, while practising their 8845, 24hr premium-rate visa information 0891 880 CONSULATES IN CHÓNGQ�NG
Planet guides confiscated at the border for English on you. Be naturally vigilant when ap- 808; 31 Portland Place, London, W1N 5AG); Edinburgh Canada (%023-6373 8007; 17th fl, Metropolitan Tower,
their on-map depiction of Taiwan in a dif- proached by English speakers in the street and (%0131-316 4789); Manchester (%0161-224 7480) Zourong Lu)
ferent colour scheme from China. Whatever don t immediately assume that an approach is USA (www.china-embassy.org) Washington DC (%202- Denmark (%023-6373 6008; 31st fl, Metropolitan
your opinion on the status of the Republic of a hospitable gesture (but it may be). 338 6688; room 110, 2201 Wisconsin Ave NW, Washington Tower, Zourong Lu)
D I R E C T O R Y
DIRECTORY
470 DIREC TORY " " Festivals & Events lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com DIREC TORY " " Food 471
Japan (%023-6373 3585; 14th fl, Commercial Wing, CONSULATES IN N�NN�NG people take a week off from work and enjoy big family GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
Chongqing Hotel, 283 Minsheng Lu) Vietnam (%0771-1551 0562; 1st fl, Touzi Dasha, 109 get-togethers. Be warned: this is China s biggest holiday Greater tolerance exists in the big cities than in
UK (%023-6369 1500; 28th fl, Metropolitan Tower, Minzu Dadao) with transport booked solid. The Chinese New Year will the more conservative countryside. However,
Zourong Lu) fall on the following dates: 7 February 2008 and even in urban China it is recommended that
CONSULATES IN SHĄNGH%CńI 26 January 2009. gays and lesbians are clandestine about their
CONSULATES IN GU%CńNGZHL
U Australia (%021-5292 5500; www.aus-in-shanghai Lantern Festival (CQ�[��; Yu�nxi

o Ji�) It s not a pub- sexual orientation. On the other hand, recog-
Australia (%020-8335 5911; fax [phone]; Room .com.cn; 22nd fl, Citic Sq, 1168 West Nanjing Rd) lic holiday, but it is very colourful. Children make (or buy) nised gay discos, bars and pubs in big cities
1509, 15th fl, Main Tower, Guangdong International Hotel, Canada (%021-6279 8400; www.shanghai.gc.ca; paper lanterns and walk around the streets in the evening appear to function without official harassment,
339 Huanshi Donglu) Suite 604, West Tower, Shanghai Centre, 1376 West holding them. It falls on the 15th day of the first moon, although they tend to keep a fairly low profile.
Canada (%020-8666 0569; fax [phone]; Room 801, Nanjing Rd) and will be celebrated on the following dates: 22 February Check out www.utopia-asia.com/tipschin
Wing C, China Hotel, Liuhua Lu) Germany (%021-3401 0106; www.shanghai.diplo.de; 2008 and 9 February, 2009. .htm for loads of tips on travelling in China
Germany (%020-8330 6533; fax [phone]; 19th fl, 181 Yongfu Rd) and a complete listing of gay bars nationwide.
Main Tower, Guangdong International Hotel, 339 Huanshi Japan (%021-5257 4766; www.shanghai.cn.emb-japan April You can also contact the International Gay &
Donglu) .go.jp/cn; 8 Wanshan Rd, Hongqiao) Tomb Sweeping Day (nf��; Q%2łngm�ng Ji�) A day Lesbian Travel Association (%1-954-776 2626; fax 776
Japan (%020-8333 8999, ext 197; fax [phone]; 2nd New Zealand (%021-6471 1108; www.nzembassy for worshipping ancestors; people visit and clean the 3303; www.iglta.com) in the USA.
fl, East Tower, Garden Hotel, 368 Huanshi Donglu) .com; 15a, Qihua Tower, 1375 Central Huaihai Rd) graves of their departed relatives, placing flowers on tombs Useful publications include the Spartacus
Thailand (%020-8188 6968, ext 310; Room 310, White UK (%021-6279 7650; www.britishconsulate.sh.cn; 3rd and burning ghost money. The festival generally falls close International Gay Guide (Bruno Gmunder
Swan Hotel, 1 Shamian Nanjie) fl, Room 301, Shanghai Centre, 1376 West Nanjing Rd) to Easter, on 5 April in most years, or 4 April in leap years. Verlag), a bestselling travel guide for gay
UK (%020-8335 1354; fax [phone]; 2nd fl, Main USA (www.usembassy-china.org.cn/shanghai) Central travellers.
Tower, Guangdong International Hotel, 339 Huanshi Huaihai Rd (%021-6433 6880; 1469 Central Huaihai Rd, April
Donglu) entrance on Wulumuqi Rd); Westgate Tower (%021- Mazu s Birthday (�YVyu�e; M

z�
Sh
ngr�) Mazu, HOLIDAYS
USA (%020-8121 8000; fax [phone]; 1 Shamian 3217 4650, after-hours emergency number for US citizens goddess of the sea, is guardian of seafarers and those who The People s Republic of China has nine na-
Nanjie, Sh

miąn D�
o) 021-6433 3936; 8th fl, Westgate Tower, 1038 West make their living off the seas and waterways. Also called tional holidays, as follows (Hong Kong and
Vietnam (%020-8330 5911; 2nd fl, B Bldg, Hotel Nanjing Rd) Tianhou (Tin Hau in Cantonese) her birthday is widely Macau have different holidays):
Landmark, Qiaoguang Lu) celebrated at Taoist temples in coastal regions as far south New Year s Day 1 January
FESTIVALS & EVENTS as Vietnam. Mazu s birthday is on the 23rd day of the third Chinese New Year (Spring Festival) Usually February
CONSULATES IN HONG KONG Visiting temples during festival periods will moon; 28 April 2008 and 18 April 2009. International Women s Day 8 March
Australia (%0852-2827 8881; 23rd fl, Harbour Centre, reward you with colourful ceremonies and International Labour Day 1 May
25 Harbour Rd, Wan Chai) events. Sights can, however, become rapidly May/June Youth Day 4 May
Canada (%0852-2810 4321; 11th-14th fl, Tower I, swamped with holidaying Chinese. Dragon Boat Festival (�zHS��; Du

nw�
Ji�) This very International Children s Day 1 June
Exchange Sq, 8 Connaught Pl, Central) The various minorities in China s South- popular festival sees crowds watching dragon boat races Birthday of the Chinese Communist Party 1 July
Germany (%0852-2105 8788; 21st fl, United Centre, 95 west each have their own colourful festivals and eating z�ngzi (triangular glutinous rice dumplings Anniversary of the Founding of the People s
Queensway, Admiralty) and these are excellent opportunities to app- wrapped in reed leaves). The festival falls on the fifth day Liberation Army 1 August
Japan (%0852-2522 1184; 46th & 47th fl, Tower I, reciate traditional customs, attire and cuisine. of the fifth lunar month; 8 June 2008 and 28 May 2009. National Day 1 October
Exchange Sq, 8 Connaught Pl, Central) Many take place during the winter period
New Zealand (%0852-2877 4488, 0852-2525 5044; when there is little work to be done in the September Many of the above are nominal holidays that
Room 6508, 65th fl, Central Plaza, 18 Harbour Rd, Wan fields and people have more time for festivals. Mid-Autumn Festival (-N�y��; ZhM
ngqik
Ji�) Also do not result in leave. The 1 May holiday is
Chai) Almost all are dated by the lunar calendar and known as the Moon Festival, this is a traditional time to a week-long holiday, as is National Day on 1
UK (%0852-2901 3000; 1 Supreme Court Rd, Admiralty) fall on auspicious dates such as the third day eat tasty yuŁ b�
ng (moon cakes) and for families to get October and the Chinese New Year is also a
USA (%0852-2523 9011; 26 Garden Rd, Central) of the third lunar month. together. The festival takes place on the 15th day of the week-long holiday for many. It s not a great
Vietnam (%0852-2591 4517; 15th fl, Great Smart Gu�zhM
u (especially around K�
il�
) and eighth moon, and will be celebrated on the following idea to arrive in China or to go travelling
Tower, 230 Wan Chai Rd, Wan Chai) Yśnn�n (Dąl�
and X%2łshu

ngb�
nną) have the dates: 14 September 2008 and 3 October 2009. during these holidays as things tend to grind
best of these festivals. For details of local and to a halt. Room prices all over China rapidly
CONSULATES IN Kj
NM�NG minority festivals see the start of each prov- FOOD shoot up during the May and October holiday
Laos (%0871-317 6624; Room N120, ground fl, Camellia ince chapter and the Top 10 Festivals section Don t settle for that Chinatown schlock any periods. International Women s Day is a half-
Hotel, 96 Dongfeng Donglu; h8.30am-noon & 1.30- of the Getting Started chapter (p14). With more, China is where it s at (see p72) and day holiday for women.
4.30pm Mon-Fri) the exception of the Spring Festival, festivals food should top your priorities. It depends on
Myanmar (%0871-360 3477; fax [phone]; www that don t qualify as national holidays (see where you travel, but a meal for one at budget INSURANCE
.mcg-kunming.com; B503, Longyuan Haozhai, 166 Weiy- opposite) include the following: eateries should cost under Y20; midrange din- A travel insurance policy to cover theft, loss,
uan Jie; h8.30am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri) ing options will cost between Y20 and Y100, trip cancellation and medical problems is a
Thailand (%0871-314 9296; fax [phone]; ground fl February while top-end meals can cost anything over good idea. Travel agents can sort this out for
of the South Wing of the Kunming Hotel, 52 Dongfeng Spring Festival (%f��; Chk
n Ji�) Usually in Febru- Y100. you although it is often cheaper to find good
Donglu; h9-11.30am Mon-Fri) ary  this is otherwise known as Chinese New Year and If you want to eat bread and cakes, look out deals with an insurer online or from a broker.
Vietnam (%0871-352 2669; 2nd fl, Kaihua Plaza, 157 starts on the first day of the first month in the lunar for bakeries (bS^; miąnb

o diąn), which Some policies offer lower and higher medical
Beijing Lu; h8am-noon & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) calendar. Although officially lasting only three days, many are all the rage even in small towns. expense options; the higher ones are chiefly
D I R E C T O R Y
DIRECTORY
472 DIREC TORY " " Internet Access lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com DIREC TORY " " Passpor ts 473
for countries such as the USA, which have Occasionally  as in May 2006  sites such as Counterfeit Bills for foreign exchange counters are 8am to 7pm
extremely high medical costs. Hotmail can go down for long periods, so hav- Counterfeit notes are a problem in China. (later at hotels). The official rate is given al-
Some policies specifically exclude  danger- ing a backup email address is a good idea. Very few Chinese will accept a Y50 or Y100 most everywhere and the exchange charge is
ous activities such as skiing and even trek- note without first checking to see if it s a fake. standardised, so there is little need to shop
king. Check that the policy covers ambulances LEGAL MATTERS Many shopkeepers will run notes under an around for the best deal. See the exchange rate
or an emergency flight home. If you have to Anyone under the age of 18 is considered a ultraviolet light looking for fakes. Visually table in the Quick Reference inside the front
claim, make sure you keep all documentation. minor, and the minimum age at which you checking for forged notes is hard unless you cover and consult a newspaper for the current
See the Health chapter (p493) for further in- can drive is also 18. The age of consent for are very familiar with bills, but be aware that exchange rate. In some backwaters, it may be
formation on health insurance. marriage is 22 for men and 20 for women. street vendors may try and dump forged notes hard to change lesser-known currencies  US
Note that private medical care is limited to There is no minimum age that restricts the on you in large denomination change. dollars and UK pounds are still the easiest to
large cities and medical care can be rudimen- consumption of alcohol or use of cigarettes. change (travellers have also reported seeing
tary in smaller towns. China s laws against the use of illegal drugs Credit Cards Australian dollars go far).
are harsh, and foreign nationals have been Credit is not big in China. Foreign plastic is Keep at least a few of your exchange re-
INTERNET ACCESS executed for drug offences (trafficking in therefore of limited use, but cards used include ceipts. You will need them if you want to
Handy internet caf�s in towns, cities and more than 50g of heroin can result in the Visa, MasterCard, Amex and JCB. Don t ex- exchange any remaining RMB you have at
destinations are listed under Information death penalty). pect to use them everywhere and always carry the end of your trip.
throughout this book. Internet caf�s tend to The Chinese criminal justice system does enough cash. You should be able to use them at
cluster near train stations and commercial not ensure a fair trial and defendants are not upmarket hotels and restaurants, supermarkets, Tipping
areas of town. Look for the characters w�
ngb

presumed innocent until proven guilty. Note department stores and shops in tourist towns. In China, almost no-one asks for tips. Many
(Q'T)  or the more rarely used w�
nglu� (Q that China conducts more judicial executions Money can also be withdrawn at certain ATMs midrange and top-end eateries include their
�~)  which mean internet caf�. than the rest of the world put together, up to (see opposite) in large cities on credit cards own service charge; cheap restaurants do not
Internet caf�s are far easier to find in the 10,000 per year according to some reports. If such as Visa, MasterCard and Amex. expect a tip. Taxi drivers throughout China
Southwest than in B%1łij%2łng or Shąngh�
i and arrested, most foreign citizens have the right Credit card cash advances have become do expect tips.
protocol is also more relaxed down here; you to contact their embassy, see p469. fairly routine at head branches of the Bank of
probably won t be asked for ID. From 2007, China. Bear in mind, however, that a 4% com- Travellers Cheques
China was preparing to ban the opening of MAPS mission is generally deducted. The Bank of These are worth taking with you if you are
new internet caf�s, so don t expect accessibil- Outside of Hong Kong, English-language China does not charge commission on Amex principally travelling in large cities and tourist
ity to improve. maps of towns published in China are uni- cash withdrawals. areas. Not only will they protect your money
Online prices are cheap  ranging from as formly third-rate and rarely have scales; the against theft or loss, but the exchange rate for
little as Y1 to Y3 per hour, depending on which Southwest is no exception. Ask at concierge Currency travellers cheques (�eL�/ehy; l�
x�ng zh%2łpiąo)
zone you sit in, but you may have to pay a de- desks in five-star hotels for freebie Eng- The Chinese currency is the Renminbi (RMB), is higher than for cash (around 2% higher).
posit (usually around Y10). Normally you are lish-language maps, if available. Chinese- or  People s Money . Formally the basic unit They cannot be used everywhere, however.
given a ticket with a user number and a pass- language maps are hawked at every turn in of RMB is the yu�n (CQ), which is divided into You should have no problem cashing them at
word (usually a sequence of numbers), which tourist towns; look out for transport maps 10 ji�
o (҉), which is again divided into 10 f
n tourist hotels in China, but they are of little use
you key into the on-screen box to get online. (ńN��V; ji

otM
ng tś) that list bus routes. New (R). Colloquially, the yu�n is referred to as in budget hotels and restaurants. As with credit
Internet caf�s may operate a nonsmoking editions are typically annual, but the volume of kuąi (WW) and ji�
o as m�o (�k). The f
n has so cards, ensure that you always carry enough
policy, but it may not deter your neighbour updated cartographic information is often little value these days that it is rarely used. ready cash on you. If cashing at banks, aim for
from puffing away like a madman. minimal. Maps can also be bought at news- The Bank of China issues RMB bills in the larger banks such as the Bank of China or
The majority of internet caf�s are crowded paper kiosks (Ąb R�N; bąok

n t�ng) and from denominations of one, two, five, 10, 20, 50 the Industrial & Commercial Bank of China.
with teenagers playing games, so things can bookshops such as Xinhua Bookstore (�eNSfN and 100 yu�n. Coins come in denominations Stick to the major companies such as Thomas
get noisy and weekends can be totally packed. ^; X%2łnhu� Shk
diąn), branches of which are of one yu�n, five ji�
o, one ji�
o and five f
n. Cook, Amex and Visa. In big cities they are
Opening hours are generally from 8am to listed under Information sections throughout Paper versions of the coins remain in circula- accepted in almost any currency, but in smaller
midnight or, more commonly, 24 hours. the destination chapters in this book. tion. For images of Chinese currency, click on destinations its best to stick to common cur-
Youth hostels and other backpacker ho- www.chinatoday.com/fin/mon/. rencies such as US dollars or UK pounds.
tels should have internet access in common MONEY Hong Kong s currency is the Hong Kong
areas; if not gratis, rates will be around Y5 ATMs dollar and Macau s is the pataca. PASSPORTS
per hour. In China s Southwest, ATMs that take inter- You must have a passport with you at all
Objective news and news analysis is feared national cards include branches of the Bank of Exchanging Money times; it is the most basic travel document and
by the authorities, who strictly control inter- China and the Industrial & Commercial Bank Renminbi is still not freely convertible outside all hotels will insist on seeing it. The Chinese
net content. Even so, most English-language of China where you can use Visa, MasterCard, China, but it s easy to exchange money at the government requires that your passport be
newspapers can be read online, although the Cirrus, Maestro, Plus and American Express airport when you arrive. Foreign currency and valid for at least six months after the expiry
BBC News website is invariably inaccessible (Amex) to withdraw cash. The network largely travellers cheques can be changed at border date of your visa. You ll need at least one en-
and you may find other websites unexpectedly applies to sizeable towns and cities. Large air- crossings, international airports, branches of tire blank page in your passport for the visa.
becoming blocked; it all depends on the whim ports, five-star hotels and some department the Bank of China, tourist hotels, and some Have an ID card with your photo in case
of the censors. stores have ATMs. large department stores; hours of operation you lose your passport; even better, make
D I R E C T O R Y
DIRECTORY
474 DIREC TORY " " Photography & Video lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com DIREC TORY " " Time 475
photocopies of your passport. Your embassy cheaper. Contact your network (eg Orange, perhaps unsurprising. When out and about,
ESSENTIAL NUMBERS
may need these before issuing a new one (a Vodaphone) to see if your phone can use in- make a beeline for fast-food outlets, top-end
There are several telephone numbers that
process that can take weeks). Also report the ternational roaming in China. If it can, it will hotels and department stores for more hygi-
are the same for all major cities. However,
loss to the local PSB (lQ�[@\; GM
ng

njś). probably be expensive; the cheaper option is enic alternatives or swallow hard and brave
Long-stay visitors should register their pass- only international assistance is likely to have
to obtain a new SIM card in China, but make the stench. Toilet paper is rarely provided in
English-speaking operators:
port with their embassy. sure your mobile phone is unlocked first. street-side public toilets so always keep a stash
Ambulance
%120 with you. Squat toilets are common in budget
Fire
PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO %119 Phonecards hotel rooms so if that s not what you want,
Police
In large towns and cities, good photographic %110 For local calls, IC cards (IC aS; IC k�
) are shop around. In many hotels and buildings,
outlets where you can find colour slide film, a available from kiosks, hole-in-the-wall shops, especially old ones, the sewage system can t
range of batteries and get digital images down- internet caf�s and from any China Telecom handle paper. As a general rule, if you see a
loaded to CD or converted to prints are reason- buy a phone card (opposite). The majority office. They ve prepaid cards that can be used wastebasket next to the toilet, that s where you
ably easy to find. Kodak is the main player in the of public telephones take Intergrate Cir- in most public telephones, telecom offices should throw the toilet paper; otherwise the
market, with branches everywhere. cuit (IC) cards (see below) and only a few and hotels. Some IC cards can only be used loo could choke up and flood.
take coins. Domestic and international long- locally (depending on where the card was Hyperventilate before tackling toilets on the
POST distance phone calls can also be made from purchased), while other cards can be used older trains, or enter with a strong cigarette.
The international postal service is efficient, main telecommunications offices and  phone throughout China. International calls using Remember the following: men 7u (n�n);
and airmail letters and postcards will prob- bars (Ż�'T; huąb

). IC cards are much more expensive than using women sY (n�
).
ably take around five to 10 days to reach their The country code to use to access China is Internet Phone (IP) cards.
destinations. Domestic post is swift. 86. To call a number in Kk
nm�ng for example, If you wish to make international calls TOURIST INFORMATION
China Post operates an Express Mail Serv- dial the international access code (00 in the UK, from your hotel phone, it is much cheaper to Tourist information in many large cities and
ice (EMS), which is fast, reliable and ensures 011 in the USA), dial the country code (86) use an IP card. International calls on IP cards towns  apart from Kk
nm�ng  in China s
that the package is sent by registered post. Not and then the area code for Kk
nm�ng (0871), are Y1.80 per minute to the USA or Canada, Southwest are rudimentary and of little use.
all branches of China Post have EMS, so try dropping the first zero, and then dial the local Y1.50 per minute to Hong Kong, Macau and Large cities such as B%1łij%2łng and Shąngh�
i
larger branches. number. For telephone calls within the same Taiwan, and Y3.20 to all other countries; have more evolved tourist-information in-
Apart from local post offices, branch post city, drop the international and area codes domestic long-distance calls are Y0.30 per frastructure, but even in Shąngh�
i, tourist
offices can be found in tourist hotels where (qk
hąo). If calling internationally from China, minute. You dial a local number, then punch information facilities are primitive. Back-
you can send letters, packets and parcels, but drop the first zero of the area or city code after in your account number, followed by a pin packer haunts such as Y�ngshu� (p166 )
you may only be able to post printed matter. dialling the international access code, and then number and finally the number you wish and Dąl�
(p257) are equipped with helpful
Other parcels may require a customs form dial the number you wish to call. to call. English-language service is usually English-speaking bar and hotel staff who
attached at the town s main post office and a Area codes for all cities, towns and destina- available. IP cards come in various denomi- can offer free advice. Elsewhere, you may
contents check. Even at cheap hotels you can tions appear in the relevant chapters. nations and substantial discounts are offered. have to fall back on your hotel or the China
usually post letters from the front desk  reli- IP cards can be found at the same places as International Travel Service (CITS; -NżV
ability varies, but in general it s fine. Mobile Phones IC cards. Some IP cards can only be used żVE
�eL�>y; ZhM
ngguó Guój� L�
x�ngshŁ).
In major cities private carriers, United Parcel Mobile-phone shops (Kb:g^; sh�
uj%2łdiąn) locally, while others can be used nationwide, Most towns and cities have a branch of CITS
Service, DHL, FedEx and TNT Skypak, have a such as China Mobile can sell you a SIM card, so buy the right card (and check the expiry and addresses and contact details of offices
pick-up service as well as drop-off centres, so which will cost from Y60 to Y100 and will date). are listed throughout this book, although
call their offices for the latest details. include Y50 of credit. When this runs out, extracting useful advice can be like pulling
you can then top-up the number by buying TIME teeth from many branches; CITS outfits in
SHOPPING a credit-charging card (EQSince foreigners are often overcharged in Chi- for Y50 or Y100 worth of credits. the lunar calendar. Time throughout China more on the ball.
na s Southwest, bargaining is essential. You The Chinese avoid the number four   s�  is set to B%1łij%2łng time, eight hours ahead of
can bargain (���N; ji�
ngjią) in shops, mar- (�V; which sounds like but has a different tone GMT/UTC. When it s noon in B%1łij%2łng it s TOURS
kets and hotels, but not everywhere. In large from the word for death   s�
 ; {k) and love also noon in Kk
nm�ng and all other parts Adventure-travel companies that organ-
shops and department stores where prices are the number eight   b

 (kQ). Consequently, of the country. There is no daylight-saving ise treks to China s Southwest include the
clearly marked, there is usually no latitude for the cheapest numbers tend to contain numer- time in China. following:
bargaining. In small shops and street stalls, ous fours and the priciest have successions of When it s noon in B%1łij%2łng the time is 2pm Active Travel (%64 3-445 2320; www.activetravel
bargaining is expected, but there is one im- eights. in Sydney, 4am in London, 11pm in New .co.nz) New Zealand based outfit running small-group
portant rule to follow  be polite. You can certainly take your mobile phone York (previous day) and 8pm in Los Angeles treks to remote parts of Yśnn�n and treks through Tiger
(Kb:g; sh�
uj%2ł) to China, but ensure it is un- (previous day). Leaping Gorge and beyond.
TELEPHONE locked, so you can use another network s Bike China (www.bikechina.com) Yśnn�n-based com-
International and domestic calls can be easily SIM card in your phone. Alternatively, global TOILETS pany that specialises in bicycle tours of China s Southwest.
made from your hotel room (or from pub- SIM cards are available from airports but you Despite proud claims to have invented the Earth River Expeditions (%800-643 2784; www
lic telephones on the street). International might as well wait till you get to China and first flushing toilet, China has some wicked .earthriver.com; 180 Towpath Rd, Accord, NY 12404, USA)
phone calls are expensive and it is best to visit a branch of China Mobile, which is far loos, but in a country of 1.3 billion, that is Offers rafting and trekking around Tiger Leaping Gorge.
D I R E C T O R Y
DIRECTORY
476 DIREC TORY " " Travellers with Disabilities lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com DIREC TORY " " Women Travellers 477
Intrepid Travel (%44 0 1373 826611; www for most Western nationals to visit Hong have to mail your passport to a visa service Travel Permits
.intrepidtravel.com; 76 Upper St, Islington, London N1 Kong (p94) or Macau. Refer to the Passports agency, who will then deal with it. Travellers to certain areas of a military or
0NU, UK) Runs a large variety of tours to China s South- section (p473) for details on passport validity Many people in the US use the China Visa sensitive nature require a travel permit (�e
west, including 15-day trips from B%1łij%2łng to Kk
nm�ng via requirements and what to do in the event of Service Center (%1-800 799 6560; www.mychinavisa.com), L���; l�
x�ng zhŁng), although most of the
Ch�ngdk
, 10-day trips from Kk
nm�ng lassoing in L�ji

ng, passport loss while in China. which offers impeccable and prompt service. regions covered in this book are open to for-
Tiger Leaping Gorge, Dąl�
and Shangri-la plus five-day For most travellers, the type of visa is an L, The procedure takes around 10 to 14 days. eign travellers.
Chinese cooking oriented trips to Y�ngshu�. from the Chinese word for travel (l�
x�ng). This The letter specifying what type of visa If you are in any doubt whether an area
Journeys International (%800-255 8735, 734-665 letter is stamped right on the visa. The L visa you have is usually stamped on the visa it- is restricted, ask at the nearest branch of the
4407; www.journeys-intl.com; Suite 3, 107 Aprill Dr, can be either a multiple- or single-entry visa. self. There are eight categories of visas, as PSB. A travel permit for travellers to Tibet is
Ann Arbor, MI 48103-1903, USA) Tours that take in the Visas are readily available from Chinese follows: mandatory.
highlights of the Southwest. embassies and consulates in most Western
Mountain Travel-Sobek (www.mtsobek.com) Special- and many other countries. A standard 30-day, Type Description Chinese name Visa Extensions
ises in rafting and trekking. single-entry visa from most Chinese embassies Extensions of 30 days are given for any tour-
L travel l�
x�ng
Peregrine Adventures (%61 3-8601 4444; websales abroad can be issued in three to five working ist visa. You may be able to wangle more, for
F business or student f�
ngwŁn
@peregrineadventures.com; www.peregrine.net.au; 380 days; visa charges vary, but prices have risen reasons such as illness or transport delays, but
D resident d�ngjk

Lonsdale Street, Melbourne, VIC 3000, Australia) Small- steadily over recent years. Express visas cost second extensions are usually only granted for
G transit gu�j�ng
group adventure tours, family, trekking and wildlife tours twice the usual fee. You normally pay up front one week, on the understanding that you are
X long-term student liśxu�
to Yśnn�n and the Southwest. for the visa, rather than on collection. You can on your way out of China. Visa extensions
Z working rŁnzh�
White Pearl Associates (www.chinarivers.com) Runs get an application form in person at the em- (fees vary depending on nationality) are dealt
J journalist j�zh%1ł
tours in the Nłji

ng region of Yśnn�n that directly benefit bassy or consulate, or obtain one online from a with by the PSB.
C flight attendant ch�ngwł
local community organisations and protected areas. consular website (try www.fmprc.gov.cn/eng/
Wild China (www.wildchina.com) Runs a selection of click on About China, then Travel to China Important note: if you visit Hong Kong or WOMEN TRAVELLERS
tours around the Southwest and other parts of China. and then Visa Information). A visa mailed to Macau from China, you will need to be on Principles of decorum and respect for women
Treks include six-day expeditions within X%2łshu

ngb�
nną, a you will take up to three weeks. Rather than a double-entry or multiple-entry visa to re- are deeply ingrained in Chinese culture.
week-long trek to Yading Nature Reserve in west S�chu

n going through an embassy or consulate, you enter China or else will have to get a new Chinese males are not macho, and there is
and a 12-day journey through the minority region of can also make arrangements at certain travel visa (below). a strong sense of balance between the sexes.
southeast Gu�zhM
u. agencies. Visa applications require at least one Nonetheless, in its institutions, China is a
photo (normally a 5cm one). When asked on Getting a China Visa in Hong Kong patriarchal and highly conservative country
TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES the application form, try to list standard tourist Hong Kong is still a good place to pick up a where virtually all positions of political and
As with the rest of the land, China s Southwest destinations such as Gu�l�n or Kk
nm�ng as your visa for China. China Travel Service (CTS) state authority are occupied by (old) men.
has few facilities for disabled travellers, but choice is nonbinding. and any of the other companies listed under In general, foreign women are unlikely to
it s not totally impossible. Most hotels have Thirty-day visas are available at the Macau Travel Agencies (p94) will be able to obtain suffer serious sexual harassment in China. Try
lifts, so booking ground-floor hotel rooms is China border at Zhk
h�
i. Visas are also available one for you or you can apply directly to to stick to hotels in the centre, rather than the
not essential, unless you are staying in very at the Luóhś border crossing between Hong the Visa Office of the People s Republic of China fringes of town.
budget accommodation. Some hotels at the Kong and Sh
nzhŁn, although at the time of (%0852-3413 2300; 7th fl, Lower Block, China Resources Taking a whistle or alarm with you would
four- and five-star level have rooms for those writing this did not apply to US citizens, who Centre, 26 Harbour Rd, Wan Chai; h9am-noon & 2-5pm offer a measure of defence in any unpleasant
with physical disabilities. will need to apply in Hong Kong or have a visa Mon-Fri). Visas processed here in one/two/three encounter. If you have to travel alone, con-
However, roads and pavements make already. A 30-day visa is activated on the date days cost HK$400/300/150. Double/six- sider arming yourself with some self-defence
things very difficult for the wheelchair-bound you enter China, and must be used within three month multiple/one-year multiple visas are techniques.
or those with a walking disability. Pavements months of the date of issue. Although a 30-day HK$220/400/600 (plus HK$150/250 if you Tampons (kSu�hag; wŁish
ng mi�nti�o)
are often crowded, in a dangerous condition length of stay is standard for tourist visas, 60- require express/urgent service). Be aware can be found almost everywhere, especially
and have high kerbs. It is recommended that and 90-day visas are generally also available. that American and UK passport holders must in big supermarkets. It s best to take plentiful
you take a lightweight chair so you can col- On request, you can receive a double-entry or pay considerably more for their visas. You supplies of the pill (�U[o�; b�yłnyąo) un-
lapse it easily for navigating around obstacles multiple-entry travel visa. If you have trouble must supply two photos, which can be taken less you are travelling to the big cities where
or loading into the back of taxis. getting more than a 30-day visa, or a multiple- at photo booths in the Mass Rapid Transit brands such as Marvelon are available from
You will find loads of useful information entry visa, try a local visa-arranging service or a (MTR) and at the visa office for HK$35. local pharmacies.
for wheelchair-bound travellers  including travel agency in Hong Kong. You need to extend
recommended travel agents geared towards your visa in China if you want to stay longer.
disabled travellers  online at www.disability A Chinese visa covers virtually the whole of
travel.com. China, although some restricted areas still
exist, which will require an additional permit
VISAS (opposite) from the PSB, at a cost.
Apart from citizens from Japan, Singapore At the time of writing, Chinese embassies
and Brunei, a visa is required for the PRC, but in the US were no longer accepting mailed
at the time of writing visas were not required visa applications, so this may mean you will
D I R E C T O R Y
DIRECTORY
478 lonelyplanet.com GET TING THERE & AWAY " " Air 479
REGIONAL FLIGHTS
TOKYO
Transport
NAGOYA
BŚIJąNG
OSAKA
SEOUL
THINGS CHANGE&
CONTENTS
FUKUOKA
The information in this chapter is particularly
Getting There & Away 478
vulnerable to change. Check directly with
Entering China 478
the airline or a travel agent to make sure
Air 478
you understand how a fare (and ticket you
SHĄNGH! I
Land 483
may buy) works and be aware of the security
River 485
requirements for international travel. Shop
Sea 485
CH�NGDż
carefully. The details given in this chapter
Getting Around 486
CHÓNGQ�NG
should be regarded as pointers and are not
Air 486
a substitute for your own careful, up-to-date
PACIFIC
GU�Y�NG
Bicycle 486
OCEAN
research.
Gu�l�n
Boat 488
KżNM�NG
Bus 488
GU! NGZHąU
HONG KONG
Car & Motorcyle 489
N�NN�NG
(PSB) and your consulate or embassy in the MACAU
Jinghóng
Hitching 489
event of loss or theft.
Local Transport 489
HANOI
Train 490
AIR
CHIANG MAI VIENTIANE
For convenience and accessibility, most arriv-
YANGON
als are by air, with relatively small numbers of
foreign travellers reaching China by sea and
GETTING THERE & overland. The proliferation of direct interna-
BANGKOK
tional flights to China makes air access increas-
AWAY ingly convenient, although direct international
HO CHI
MINH CITY
flights into China s Southwest are largely lim-
ENTERING CHINA ited to northeast and Southeast Asia.
There are no particular difficulties for travel- Most long-haul international flights to
lers entering China. As a general rule, visas China go via B%1łij%2łng, Hong Kong or Shąngh�
i;
Full one-way economy fares in Chinese yuan (Y),
US dollars (US$) and Hong Kong dollars (HK$)
(see p476) cannot be obtained at the border. see the B%1łij%2łng, Hong Kong and Shąngh�
i
(Discounts typically available on most
At the time of writing, visas were not required gateway chapters for details on arriving and
KUALA LUMPUR
flights; tickets on international routes are
for most Western nationals to visit Hong Kong spending time in those cities. Flights between always discounted by 40% to 50%)
SINGAPORE
or Macau, and some visa-free transits exist. Hong Kong and China s Southwest are classed
Chinese immigration officers are scrupulous as international.
and, by definition, highly bureaucratic, but not The cheapest direct ticket deals are gen- Airport has connections to Japan, South
difficult or overly officious. Travellers arriving Airports & Airlines erally available from China s international Korea, Thailand, Singapore and Malaysia.
in China will be given a health declaration form Hong Kong, B%1łij%2łng and Shąngh�
i are China s carriers, such as China Eastern. N�nn�ng has occasional flights to Hanoi in
and an arrivals form to complete. principal international air gateways. Hong Kong The number of direct international routes Vietnam, but at the time of writing these had
International Airport (airport code HKG; %852-2181 0000; into China s Southwest is growing. Ch�ngdk
 s been suspended.
Passport www.hkairport.com) is located at Chek Lap Kok Shangliu Airport has the most international International and domestic departure tax
You will not be allowed to enter China if your on Lantau Island in the west of the territory. air connections (to/from Hong Kong, Japan, is included in the price of the ticket.
passport expires within six months. All trav- B%1łij%2łng s Capital Airport (airport code PEK; %arrivals & South Korea, Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia Airlines flying to and from China include
ellers to mainland China (apart from Hong departures 010-6454 1100) has benefited from consid- and Nepal; flights to Austria, Netherlands the following:
Kong and Macau residents, who need a per- erable investment, a new terminal and a further and Macau are also in the pipeline). Kk
nm�ng Air Canada (AC; www.aircanada.ca); B%1łij%2łng (%010-
mit) will require a visa and a valid passport terminal is under construction. International in Yśnn�n similarly has substantial inter- 6468 2001); Shąngh�
i (%021-6279 2999)
to enter (see p476). You ll need at least one flights to Shąngh�
i arrive at Pudong Airport (airport national connections (to/from Hong Kong, Air China (CA; www.airchina.com.cn); B%1łij%2łng (%800
entire blank page in your passport for the visa. code PVG; %021-6834 1000, flight information 021-6834 6912) Japan, South Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, My- 810 1111); Shąngh�
i (%021-5239 7227)
In case of loss or theft, photocopy the infor- in the east; domestic flights use Hongqiao Airport anmar and Laos). Other provincial capitals in Air France (AF; www.airfrance.com); B%1łij%2łng (%4008
mation page and visa page of your passport (airport code SHA; %021-6268 8899, 021-6268 3659) in the China s Southwest with international connec- 808 808); Shąngh�
i (%4008 808 808)
and keep copies in a separate place from your west of the city. Domestic flights from all gate- tions include Gu�y�ng (to Hong Kong and Air New Zealand (NZ; www.airnz.com); Hong Kong
passport. Contact the Public Security Bureau way cities fly into China s Southwest. Thailand). Gu�l�n s Liangjiang International (%852-2862 8988)
T R A N S P O R T
TRANSPORT
3190
3480
1440
4200
2440
1940
6040
6800
3970
1730
1660
1560
1490
2030
1920
1540
Y2200/US$290
HK$2150
1430
630
440
HK$1937
Y2108/HK$2155
3540
1700
7248
2680
1520
2750
US$170
5570
1780
2560
1630
2310
US$235
1850
2800
4200
480 GET TING THERE & AWAY " " Air lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com GET TING THERE & AWAY " " Air 481
All Nippon Airways (NH; www.ana.co.jp); B%1łij%2łng deal with Chinese regularly returning home
CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL
(%800 820 1122); Shąngh�
i (%021-5696 2525) (festival times such as the Chinese New Year
Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel is the
Asiana Airlines (OZ; www.us.flyasiana.com); B%1łij%2łng will be more expensive). Firms such as STA
fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as a global ben-
(%010-6468 4000); Shąngh�
i (%021-6219 4000) Travel (www.statravel.com) with offices
efit, but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global warming.
British Airways (BA; www.british-airways.com); B%1łij%2łng worldwide also offer competitive prices to
(%010-8511 5599); Hong Kong (%852-2822 9000); most destinations. The cheapest flights to
Shąngh�
i (%021-6375 8866) China are with airlines requiring a stopover
Flying & climate change
Cathay Pacific (CX; www.cathaypacific.com); B%1łij%2łng at the home airport such as with Air France
Pretty much every form of motorised travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced
(10800 852 1888); Hong Kong (%852-2747 1888); to B%1łij%2łng via Paris or Malaysian Airlines to
climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders, not just because of the sheer
Shąngh�
i (%021-375 6000) B%1łij%2łng via Kuala Lumpur. Air fares to China
distances they allow us to travel, but because they release greenhouse gases high into the at-
China Eastern Airlines (MU; www.ce-air.com); B%1łij%2łng peak between June and September.
mosphere. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and
(%010-6464 1166); Hong Kong (%852-2861 0322); Several routes can be considered, depend-
the US will contribute as much to climate change as an average household s gas and electricity
Shąngh�
i (%021 95108) ing on where you want to fly from. If you are
consumption over a whole year.
Dragonair (KA; www.dragonair.com); B%1łij%2łng (%010- flying long haul or round-the-world and can
6518 2533); Ch�ngdk
(%028-8676 8828); Chóngq�ng find a cheap ticket to Bangkok, you can buy
Carbon offset schemes
(%023-6372 9900); Hong Kong (%852-3193 3888); an onward ticket from Bangkok to Kk
nm�ng,
Climatecare.org and other websites use  carbon calculators that allow travellers to offset the
Shąngh�
i (%021-6375 6375) Ch�ngdk
or Gu�l�n. This gives you the flex-
level of greenhouse gases they are responsible for with financial contributions to sustainable
Japan Airlines (JL; www.jal.com); B%1łij%2łng (%010-6513 ibility to fly into one city (eg Ch�ngdk
) and
travel schemes that reduce global warming  including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan
0888); Shąngh�
i (%4008 880 808) out of another (Kk
nm�ng) or to combine your
and Uganda.
KLM (KL; www.klm.nl) B%1łij%2łng (%010-6505 3505); trip with one or more regional countries (eg
Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel in-
Shąngh�
i (%021-6884 6884) fly into Kk
nm�ng then overland to Vietnam).
dustry, support the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its
Korean Air (KE; %4006 588 888; www.koreanair.com); Most visitors arrive in China via B%1łij%2łng,
staff and author travel.
B%1łij%2łng (%010-8453 8137); Shąngh�
i (%021-6275 2000) Hong Kong or Shąngh�
i and then fly or take
For more information check out our website: www.lonelyplanet.com.
Lufthansa Airlines (LH; www.lufthansa.com); B%1łij%2łng the train to the Southwest.
(%010-6468 8838); Shąngh�
i (%021-5352 4999) With the opening of the long-haul budget
Malaysia Airlines (MH; www.malaysiaairlines.com.my); Oasis Hong Kong Airlines (www.oasishongkong.com)
B%1łij%2łng (%010-6505 2681); Shąngh�
i (%021-6279 8607) in late 2006, getting to Hong Kong by air www.lonelyplanet.com Use the Travel Services to From Australia, Hong Kong is a popular
Northwest Airlines (NW; www.nwa.com); B%1łij%2łng has suddenly become much cheaper. At the book multistop trips. destination and is also the closest entry point
(%010-6505 3505); Hong Kong (%852-2810 4288); time of writing, Oasis Hong Kong Airlines www.onetravel.com Offers some good deals. into China. Although it s a shorter flight,
Shąngh�
i (%021-6884 6884) was flying to Hong Kong from the UK and www.travel.com.au A New Zealand version also exists fares from Australia to Hong Kong are gen-
Oasis Hong Kong Airlines (O8; www.oasishongkong Canada, but plans to expand its service to the (www.travel.co.nz). erally not that much cheaper than fares to
.com); Hong Kong (%852-3628 0628; h8am-8pm) USA, Germany, Italy and other destinations www.travelbag.co.uk Good for holiday bargains and B%1łij%2łng or Shąngh�
i. Low-season return fares
Qantas Airways (QF; www.qantas.com.au); B%1łij%2łng in future. With other airlines, there is little speciality travel. to Shąngh�
i or B%1łij%2łng from the east coast of
(%010-6567 9006); Hong Kong (%852-2822 9000); difference in air prices to B%1łij%2łng, Hong Kong Australia start at around A$1000, with fares
Shąngh�
i (%021-6145 0188) or Shąngh�
i, so it could depend on which To bid for last-minute tickets online, one site to Hong Kong starting from A$910.
Scandinavian Airlines (SK; www.sas.dk); B%1łij%2łng city you want to stopover in; see the gateway to try is Skyauction (www.skyauction.com). Priceline
(%010-8527 6100); Shąngh�
i (%021-5228 5001) chapters on B%1łij%2łng (p79), Hong Kong (p92) (www.priceline.com) aims to match the ticket price Canada
Singapore Airlines (SQ; www.singaporeair.com); B%1łij%2łng and Shąngh�
i (p86) for further information. to your budget. Canadian discount air ticket sellers are known
(%010-6505 2233); Hong Kong (%852-2520 2233); Stopping off in Hong Kong allows you to Discounted air-courier tickets are a cheap as consolidators and their air fares tend to
Shąngh�
i (%021-6289 1000) sort out your China visa. Domestic tickets possibility, but they carry restrictions. As a be about 10% higher than those sold in the
Thai Airways International (TG; www.thaiairways to the Southwest are marginally more ex- courier, you transport documents or freight USA. Check out travel agents in your local
.com); B%1łij%2łng (%010-6460 8899); Kk
nm�ng (%0871- pensive from Hong Kong than from B%1łij%2łng internationally and see it through customs. You Chinatown for some real deals and browse
351 1515); Shąngh�
i (%021-5298 5555) or Shąngh�
i. usually have to sacrifice your baggage and take agency ads in the Globe & Mail, Toronto
United Airlines (UA; www.ual.com); B%1łij%2łng (%010- The cheapest available airline ticket is called carry-on luggage. Generally trips are on fixed, Star, Montreal Gazette and Vancouver Sun.
6463 1111); Hong Kong (%852-2810 4888); Shąngh�
i an Advance Purchase Excursion (APEX) ticket, return-trip tickets and offer an inflexible period Travel Cuts (%800-667-2887; www.travelcuts.com) is
(%021-3311 4567) although this type of ticket includes expensive in the destination country. For more informa- Canada s national student travel agency. For
Virgin Atlantic (VS; www.virgin-atlantic.com); Hong penalties for cancellation and changing dates tion, check out organisations such as the Courier online bookings try www.expedia.ca and www
Kong (%852-2532 3030); Shąngh�
i (%021-5353 4600) of travel. Tickets listed below are tickets quoted Association (www.aircourier.org) or the International As- .travelocity.ca.
by airline offices and you will be able to find sociation of Air Travel Couriers (IAATC; www.courier.org). From Canada, Oasis Hong Kong Airlines (www
Tickets cheaper rates through travel agencies. .oasishongkong.com) has cheap flights six days a
The cheapest tickets to China and Hong Kong For browsing and buying tickets on the Australia week to Hong Kong from Vancouver from
can often be found online or in Chinatown internet, try these online booking services: STA Travel (%1300 733 035; www.statravel.com.au) as little as US$275 one-way (plus taxes and
discount agencies around the world. Other www.cheapflights.com No-frills website offering and Flight Centre (%133 133; www.flightcentre.com. charges) in economy. Air Canada has daily
budget and student travel agents offer cheap flights to numerous destinations. au) have offices throughout Australia. For on- flights to B%1łij%2łng and Shąngh�
i from Van-
tickets, but the best offers are in agents that www.expedia.com Offers discounted tickets. line bookings, try www.travel.com.au. couver. Air Canada, Air China and China
T R A N S P O R T
TRANSPORT
482 GET TING THERE & AWAY " " Air lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com GET TING THERE & AWAY " " Land 483
Eastern Airlines sometimes run very cheap SPAIN .co.nz) have branches throughout the country. found in Los Angeles, New York and other
fares. Return low-season fares between Van- Recommended agencies include Barcelo Viajes The site www.travel.co.nz is recommended big cities.
couver and B%1łij%2łng start at around US$700. (%902 116 226; www.barceloviajes.com) and Nouvelles for online bookings. From the US west coast, low-season re-
FrontiŁres (%90 217 09 79; www.nouvelles-frontieres.es). International airlines such as Malaysia Air- turn fares to Hong Kong or B%1łij%2łng start at
Continental Europe lines, Thai Airways International and Air New around US$850. Fares to these destinations
Generally there is not much variation in air Hong Kong Zealand have return fares from Auckland to increase dramatically during summer and
fare prices from the main European cities. The More than 60 airlines operate between Hong Shąngh�
i for around NZ$1380 during the low Chinese New Year. From New York to B%1łij%2łng
major airlines and travel agents generally have Kong International Airport and about 140 des- season. Return low-season fares to B%1łij%2łng or Hong Kong, low-season return fares start
a number of deals on offer, so shop around. tinations worldwide. Competition keeps fares start at around NZ$1560. at around US$890. The supercheap airline
STA Travel (www.statravel.com) and Nouvelles Fron- relatively low, so Hong Kong is a great place Oasis Hong Kong Airlines (www.oasishongkong.com) is
tiŁres (www.nouvelles-frontieres.fr) have branches to find discounted tickets. For airlines flying UK & Ireland also planning to launch direct services from
throughout Europe. to Hong Kong and everything you could ever Discount air travel is big business in London. Chicago and San Francisco to Hong Kong in
Return fares to B%1łij%2łng from major West- want to know about Hong Kong International Advertisements for many travel agencies ap- the near future.
ern European cities start at around Ź 900 with Airport, check out www.hongkongairport pear in the travel pages of the weekend broad- The following agencies are recommended
Lufthansa, Air France and KLM. Flights to .com. Dragonair flies to cities in the South- sheet newspapers, in Time Out, the Evening for online bookings:
Hong Kong are slightly more expensive, with west, including Chóngq�ng, Ch�ngdk
, Gu�l�n Standard and in the free online magazine TNT www.cheaptickets.com
return fares starting from around Ź 1000 to and Kk
nm�ng. It is far cheaper to take the train (www.tntmagazine.com). www.expedia.com
Ź 1100. or bus to either Gu�
ngzhM
u or Sh
nzhŁn and Travel agents in London s Chinatown that www.itn.net
then fly to destinations in the Southwest. deal with flights to China include Jade Travel www.lowestfare.com
FRANCE (%0870-898 8928; www.jadetravel.co.uk; 5 Newport Place, www.orbitz.com
Recommended agencies include the following: India London WC2H 7JN), Sagitta Travel Agency (%0870-077 www.sta.com (for travellers under the age of 26)
Anyway (%08 92 89 38 92; www.anyway.fr) STIC Travels (www.stictravel.com) has offices in doz- 8888; www.sagitta-tvl.com; 12-13 Little Newport St, London www.travelocity.com
Lastminute (%08 92 70 50 00; www.lastminute.fr) ens of Indian cities, including Delhi (%11-233 WC2 7JJ) and Reliance Tours Ltd (%0800-018 0503;
Nouvelles FrontiŁres (%08 25 00 07 47; www 57 468) and Mumbai (%22-221 81 431). Another www.reliance-tours.co.uk; 4th fl, 62 Shaftesbury Ave, Astoria LAND
.nouvelles-frontieres.fr) agency is Transway International (www.transway House, London W1D 6LT). If you re heading overland from Europe or
OTU Voyages (www.otu.fr) This agency specialises in international.com). From the UK, the cheapest flights to Hong Asia, it s entirely possible to travel all the way
student and youth travellers. Kong are with Oasis Hong Kong Airlines (%0844 to China and back without having to leave the
Voyageurs du Monde (%01 40 15 11 15; www.vdm Japan 482 2323; www.oasishongkong.com), with one-way ground. There are several fascinating routes,
.com) Daily flights operate between Tokyo and daily flights between Gatwick Airport and including the Vietnam China border cross-
B%1łij%2łng, with one-way fares starting at around Hong Kong starting from as low as UKŁ75 ing, the Trans-Siberian Railway from Europe,
GERMANY US$775. There are also regular flights between (plus taxes and charges). The cheapest low- or the exotic Tibet-to-Nepal, X%2łnji

ng-to-
The budget long-haul airline Oasis Hong Osaka and B%1łij%2łng, with one-way fares at season return fares to B%1łij%2łng start at around Pakistan and X%2łnji

ng-to-Kazakhstan routes.
Kong Airlines are planning to launch direct around US$600. Daily flights link Shąngh�
i UKŁ350 with British Airways. For more on these routes see Lonely Planet s
flights between Cologne Bonn Hong Kong to Tokyo and Osaka. Recommended travel agencies include the China guide.
and Berlin Hong Kong in the near future. Reliable travel agencies used to dealing with following: It s generally not possible to bring your
Recommended agencies include the foreigners include the following: Bridge the World (%0870 444 7474; www.b-t-w vehicle into China, although bringing your bi-
following: No1 Travel (03-3205 6073; www.no1-travel.com) .co.uk) cycle should present few problems (although
Expedia (www.expedia.de) STA Travel (www.statravel.co.jp); Osaka (%06-262 Flightbookers (%0870 814 4001; www.ebookers.com) regulations can be capricious). Overland
Just Travel (%089 747 3330; www.justtravel.de) 7066); Tokyo (%03-5391 2922) Flight Centre (%0870 890 8099; flightcentre.co.uk) travel between provinces in China s Southwest
Lastminute (%01805 284 366; www.lastminute.de) North-South Travel (%01245 608 291; www is largely straightforward, as is transport into
STA Travel (%01805 456 422; www.statravel.de) For Macau .northsouthtravel.co.uk) North-South Travel donate part of the rest of China beyond (see the destination
travellers under the age of 26. Air Macau has regular flights to Ch�ngdk
, its profit to projects in the developing world. chapters for details).
Gu�l�n, Kk
nm�ng and Gu�y�ng. International Quest Travel (%0870 442 3542; www.questtravel
ITALY flights include Seoul, Bangkok, Manila and .com) Border Crossings
One recommended agent is CTS Viaggi (%06 Taipei. New long-haul budget airline Viva STA Travel (%0870 160 0599; www.statravel.co.uk) For China shares borders with Afghanistan, Bhu-
462 0431; www.cts.it), specialising in student and Macau (www.flyvivamacau.com) flies to Jakarta and travellers under the age of 26. tan, India, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Laos,
youth travel. the Maldives and plans to service destina- Trailfinders (www.trailfinders.co.uk) Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Nepal, North
The very cheap airline Oasis Hong Kong Airlines tions including Milan, Moscow, Mumbai, Travel Bag (%0870 890 1456; www.travelbag.co.uk) Korea, Pakistan, Russia, Tajikistan and Viet-
(www.oasishongkong.com) is planning to launch a Delhi, Manila and Abu Dhabi. Website www nam. China also has official border crossings
Milan Hong Kong direct flight in the near .gomacau.com acts as a consolidator so is a USA between its special administrative regions,
future. good place to look for cheap fares. Discount travel agents in the USA are known Hong Kong and Macau. The borders with
as consolidators (although you won t see a Afghanistan, Bhutan and India are closed. If
THE NETHERLANDS New Zealand sign on the door saying  Consolidator ). San planning an extensive trip to China overland,
One recommended agency is Airfair (%020 620 Both Flight Centre (%0800 243 544; www.flightcentre Francisco is the ticket consolidator capital of make sure you enter China within the given
5121; www.airfair.nl). .co.nz) and STA Travel (%0508 782 872; www.statravel America, although some good deals can be time after your visa is issued (see p476).
T R A N S P O R T
TRANSPORT
484 GET TING THERE & AWAY " " Land lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com GET TING THERE & AWAY " " River 485
HONG KONG Tha province if you possess a valid Lao visa. VIETNAM From N�nn�ng s Langdong bus station, a
Hong Kong is an excellent place to enter China You can now get an on-the-spot visa for Laos at Travellers can enter Vietnam overland from daily bus (Y68, five hours) runs to Friend-
overland and there is a variety of options for the border, the price of which depends on your China and exit Vietnam to China on a stand- ship Pass at 8.10am and you can buy a ticket
crossing over the border. From Hong Kong nationality (although you cannot get a Chinese ard visa. You cannot obtain visas at the bor- on this bus all the way to Hanoi (Y120, 6�
you can reach Gu�
ngzhM
u and virtually any visa here). The border doesn t officially close der, but visas for Vietnam can be acquired in hours).
major destination in Gu�
ngdM
ng province by until 5.30pm B%1łij%2łng time (and don t forget B%1łij%2łng (p469), Kk
nm�ng (p470), Gu�
ngzhM
u Twice-weekly trains run from B%1łij%2łng to
bus, from where you can continue by bus or that Laos is an hour behind), but things often (p470), or at either CITS (p191) or the Viet- Hanoi. The T5 leaves Beijing West Train
train to destinations in the Southwest. Buses wrap up earlier on the Lao side. As the bus nam consulate (p470) in N�nn�ng; Vietnam Station at 4.16pm on Monday and Friday,
are frequent and run by a multitude of com- journey from J�
nghóng to M%1łnglą takes the also has a consulate in Gu�
ngzhM
u. Chinese arriving in Hanoi at 8.10am on Wednesday
panies and depart from locations around the better part of the day, you will probably have visas can be obtained in Hanoi. The Vietnam and Sunday. The T6 departs Hanoi at 6.30pm
territory; bus companies include CTS Express to stay overnight at M%1łnglą. For more details, China border crossing is open from 7am to on Tuesday and Friday, arrving in B%1łij%2łng at
Coach (%852-2365 0118; http://ctsbus.hkcts.com) and the see the boxed text (p334). Lao visas can also be 4pm, Vietnam time, or 8am to 5pm, China 1.38pm on Thursday and Sunday. The train
Motor Transport Company of Guangdong & Hong Kong obtained in B%1łij%2łng (p469); the Lao consulate time. Set your watch when you cross the bor- stops at Sh�ji

zhu

ng, ZhŁngzhM
u, Hąnk�
u
(GDHK; %852-2317 7900; www.gdhkmtc.com). in Kk
nm�ng (p470) issues 15-day tourist visas der  the time in China is one hour later than (in W�
hąn), W�
ch

ng (W�
hąn), Ch�ngsh

,
To reach Sh
nzhŁn by train, board the KCR (valid for two months from date of issue; visa in Vietnam. There are currently three border H�ngy�ng, Y�
ngzhM
u, Gu�l�n North, Gu�l�n,
East Rail train at Hung Hom in Kowloon extensions in Laos possible). checkpoints where foreigners are permitted Li�
zhM
u, N�nn�ng and P�ngxi�ng.
(1st/2nd class HK$66/33, 35 minutes) or at to cross between Vietnam and China. There
any KCR East Rail station along the way, and MACAU is a possibility that others will open in the Lao Cai H�k�
u
ride it to the China border crossing at Lo Wu. On the other side of the border from Macau is future. For details of the Beijing Hanoi train, A 762km metre-gauge railway, inaugurated
From Sh
nzhŁn you can take a local train or the Special Economic Zone (SEZ) of Zhk
h�
i; see below. in 1910, links Hanoi with Kk
nm�ng; at the
bus to Gu�
ngzhM
u and beyond. the border is open from 7am to midnight. time of writing international train services
The most comfortable way to reach Gu�
ng- Simply take bus 3, 5 or 9 to the Border Gate Friendship Pass were suspended due to floods and landslide
zhM
u is via the Kowloon Gu�
ngzhM
u express (Portas de Cerco) and walk across. A sec- The busiest border crossing is at the Vietnam- damage; ambitious plans are afoot to upgrade
train, which covers the 182km route in ap- ond, less busy crossing is the Cotai Frontier Post ese town of Dong Dang, an obscure town (the the ageing rail link. The border town on the
proximately 1� hours. Trains leave Hung (h9am-8pm) on the causeway linking Taipa nearest city is Lang Son 18km to the south) Vietnamese side is Lao Cai, 294km from
Hom station for Gu�
ngzhM
u East 12 times a and Coloane and allows visitors to cross over 164km northeast of Hanoi. The closest Chi- Hanoi. On the Chinese side, the border town
day between 7.30am and 7.15pm, returning the Lotus Bridge by shuttle bus (HK$4) to nese town to the border is P�ngxi�ng (p208) is H�k�
u, 468km from Kk
nm�ng. Buses to
between 8.35am and 9.23pm. One-way tickets Zhk
h�
i. Buses 15, 21 and 26 will drop you off in Gu�
ngx%2ł province, which is about 10km H�k�
u run from Kk
nm�ng (Y119, 12 hours,
cost HK$230/190 in 1st/2nd class for adults at the crossing. north of the actual border gate. The only 9.45am, 1.30pm, 7.30pm and 8.40pm; see
and HK$115/95 for children under nine. For buses further afield, the Kee Kwan Motor place in Gu�
ngx%2ł where foreigners can cross p234) for more details on crossing the border
Gu�
ngzhM
u has rail connections to every- Road Co (%853-933 888) operates from the bus is Friendship Pass, known as Huu Nghi Quan at Lao Cai H�k�
u.
where in the Southwest, but it s a major rail station on Rua das Lorchas, 100m southwest in Vietnamese and Y�
uy� Gu

n in Chinese.
bottleneck and it can sometimes be difficult of the end of Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro. Buses and minibuses on the Hanoi Lang Son Mong Cai DM
ngx%2łng
to get an onward ticket leaving the same day Buses for Gu�
ngzhM
u (MOP$70, four hours), route are frequent. For details on reaching Vietnam s third but little known border cross-
or even the next day. This is one city where from where you can get good connections to Friendship Pass from P�ngxi�ng, see p208. ing is at Mong Cai in the northeast corner of
it s worth trying the China International Travel the rest of China, depart every half-hour, and Express buses between P�ngxi�ng and N�n- the country, just opposite the Chinese city
Service (CITS; ZhM
ngguó Guój� L�
x�ngshŁ; %020-8666 6889; for ZhM
ngsh

n (MOP$25, 70 minutes) every n�ng are regular and fast (Y60 to Y70, 2� of DM
ngx%2łng.
179 Huanshi Xilu; h9am-6pm), located near the main 20 minutes between about 8am and 6.30pm. hours). P�ngxi�ng is also connected by train to
train station. There are buses to Gu�
ngzhM
u (MOP$75) and N�nn�ng, capital of China s Gu�
ngx%2ł province, RIVER
From Hong Kong International Airport DM
nggu�
n (MOP$80) from Macau Interna- 220km away. Train 5518 (Y9 to Y18) to N�n- For details on boats between Chiang Saen in
buses and boats connect to airports in Macau, tional Airport. n�ng departs P�ngxi�ng at 2.45pm, arriving in Thailand and J�
nghóng, see the boxed text,
Sh
nzhŁn and Gu�
ngzhM
u, where domestic N�nn�ng at 6.05pm. In the other direction, p331.
flights are cheaper. The TurboJet Sea Express MYANMAR (BURMA) train 5517 departs N�nn�ng at 8am, arriving
(%852-2859 3333; www.turbojetseaexpress.com.hk) links Travellers can legally cross the border in only in P�ngxi�ng at 11.30am. SEA
Hong Kong International Airport to Shen- one direction  from the Chinese side into My- As train tickets to China are expensive in There are no direct international boats to
zhen Airport (HK$230, 40 minutes) seven or anmar at the Jiegao Border Checkpoint con- Hanoi, some travellers buy a ticket to Dong ports in the Southwest. Weekly ferries link
eight times daily between 10am and 9.15pm; necting Ru�l� (p350) to Muse in Myanmar s Dang, walk across the border and then buy Osaka and Shąngh�
i (roughly 44 hours) and
it also runs to Macau. Buses run by CTS Express Shan State. Land crossings from China are only a train ticket on the Chinese side. This isn t twice-monthly services run between KM
be
Coach (%852-2261 2472) and other companies possible if you join an organised tour group the best way because it s several kilometres (Japan) and Shąngh�
i (roughly 44 hours).
run from Hong Kong International Airport to from a Chinese travel agency (eg Ko Wai Lin from Dong Dang to Friendship Pass, and From Ti

nj%2łn, a weekly ferry sails to KM
be.
Gu�
ngzhM
u and other cities in Gu�
ngdM
ng. Travel in Kk
nm�ng; p225), who can arrange you ll have to hire someone to take you by There are also boats from Q%2łngd�
o to Shi-
permits. Myanmar visas cannot be arranged in motorbike. If you re going by train, it s best monoseki every two weeks. Travelling from
LAOS Ru�l� and must be done in Kk
nm�ng. See p353 to buy a ticket from Hanoi to P�ngxi�ng, and Korea, international ferries connect the South
From the M%1łnglą (p335) district in Yśnn�n it for details on journeying to Myanmar. You can- then in P�ngxi�ng buy a ticket to N�nn�ng Korean port of Incheon with W
ih�
i, Q%2łngd�
o,
is legal to enter Laos via Boten in Luang Nam not legally leave Myanmar by this route. or beyond. Ti

nj%2łn (T�nggk
), Dąli�n and ń
ndM
ng. See
T R A N S P O R T
TRANSPORT
486 GET TING AROUND " " Air lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com GET TING AROUND " " Bicycle 487
Lonely Planet s China guide for more details based in Ch�ngdk
and China Southern in
DOMESTIC FLIGHTS
on all routes. based in Gu�
ngzhM
u.
1950
Full one-way economy fares
CH�NGDż
To Lhasa
CAAC publishes a combined international in Chinese yuan (Y)
TIBET
(136km)
(Discounts available on most flights)
Hong Kong and domestic timetable in both English and
S�CHU N
H�BŚI
Regularly scheduled ferries link the China Chinese in April and November each year. CHÓNGQ�NG
ferry terminal in Kowloon and/or the Macau This timetable can be bought at some air-
Y�bin
INDIA
ferry pier on Hong Kong Island with a string ports and CAAC offices in China. Individual Shangri-La
(Zhx
ngdiąn) X�chąng
H�N�N
of towns and cities on the Pearl River delta airlines also publish timetables and you can
JI NGXą
L�jił
ng
(but not central Gu�
ngzhM
u or Sh
nzhŁn). buy these from ticket offices throughout MYANMAR
(BURMA)
High-speed ferries run by TurboJet (%852- China. GU�Y�NG To Lhasa
Dąl�
2921 6688; www.turbojet.com.hk) connect the China Shuttle buses often run from CAAC of-
B oshł
n
GU�ZHąU
ferry terminal with Fśy�
ng ferry terminal fices in towns and cities through China to KżNM�NG
Gu�l�n
M�ngsh�
(Sh
nzhŁn airport) regularly throughout the the local airport.
GU! NGXą
Y�NN�N
Li�zhx
u
day. CMSE Passenger Transport (%852-2858 0909) On domestic and international flights the
GU! NGDąNG
(CANTON)
has regular services from the China ferry ter- free baggage allowance for an adult passenger
Simao
GU! NGZHąU
minal and the Macau ferry pier to Sh�k�
u, is 20kg in economy class and 30kg in 1st class.
730
N�NN�NG
Jinghóng
20km west of Sh
nzhŁn. You are also allowed 5kg of hand luggage,
SOUTH CHINA
Regular ferries to Zhk
h�
i in Gu�
ngdM
ng though this is rarely weighed. The charge for
VIETNAM
Beih i SEA
LAOS
can also be reached from Hong Kong from excess baggage is 1% of the full fare for each
the China ferry terminal and the Macau ferry kilogram. Remember to keep your baggage
pier. receipt label on your ticket as you will need to normally pretty hilly, so you will need to be it s even possible to rent electric bikes and
Hong Kong is connected to Macau by two show it when you collect your luggage. fit. Hiring a bicycle (z�x�ngch
) in towns such scooters.
ferry companies that run high-speed vessels International and domestic departure tax as Gu�l�n (p154) and Y�ngshu� (p166) is also Most hire shops operate out of hotels pop-
virtually 24 hours a day. is included in the price of the ticket. an excellent way to get around, but you won t ular with foreigners, but independent hire
see any bicycles in Chóngq�ng (p438), as the shops also exist. The range of bikes is gener-
Macau Tickets gradients are way too fierce. ally good, but examine your vehicle carefully
A daily ferry by the Yuet Tung Shipping Co You need to show your passport when re- Refer to the Cycling section in the South- before handing over a deposit (typically in the
(%853-574 478) connects Macau with the port serving or purchasing a ticket, and you defi- west China Outdoors chapter (p65) for more region of Y150 to Y500; avoid leaving your
of Sh�k�
u in Sh
nzhŁn. Boats run three times nitely need it to board the aircraft. Tickets details on cycling in this region. passport as deposit).
a day and take 80 minutes. Tickets can be are easy to purchase as at most times there is Day, half-day and hourly hire are the usual
bought up to three days in advance from the an oversupply of airline seats (except during Hazards options; you can also hire for several days, so
point of departure, which is pier 14, just off major festivals and holidays). Tickets can be Cycling is a popular albeit hazardous means touring is possible. Rates for Westerners are
Rua das Lorchas and 100m southwest of the purchased from branches of CAAC, travel of transport. China s roads  both urban and typically around Y10 to Y20 per day. Note that
end of Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro. agents, or from the travel desk of your hotel rural  are lethal, and according to the WHO some big hotels charge ridiculous rates.
(the latter will tack on a service charge); it 600 people a day die in traffic accidents. The Bike repair shops are everywhere and re-
pays to shop around. Discounts are common, exponential increase in vehicle numbers has pairs are cheap.
GETTING AROUND except when flying into large cities such as made cycling increasingly hazardous, so keep
Shąngh�
i at the weekend, when the full fare you wits about you. Off the Road
AIR can be the norm; prices quoted in this book Night riding is particularly dangerous. On Most travellers who bring bikes take at least a
China s air network is extensive and rapidly are the full fare. Fares are calculated according country roads look out for tractors, which couple of breaks from the rigours of the road,
growing: its civil aviation fleet is expected to one-way travel, with return tickets simply often have no headlights at all. Chinese bi- during which they use some other means of
to triple in size over the next two decades, costing twice the single fare. cycles are rarely equipped with lights. Chinese transport. Bicycles can be conveyed by bus,
with up to 2000 more airliners being added to Children over 12 are charged adult fares; cyclists and pedestrians tend to favour black air and train, and even by taxi, although avoid
the existing fleet by 2022. Airports are being kids between two and 12 pay half-price. Tod- clothing, which camouflages perfectly with shipping your bike in the build up to and
built and upgraded all over the land. China is dlers under the age of two pay 10% of the full the nightscape. during the Chinese New Year or the major
actually running out of airline pilots to fly its fare. You can use credit cards at most CAAC Dogs, the enemy of cyclists the world over, holiday periods.
growing fleet and foreign pilots have report- offices and travel agents. are less of a problem in China than elsewhere On the train, your bike won t arrive at the
edly been hired. but can be a real menace in Tibetan areas of same time as you unless you send it on a cou-
The Civil Aviation Administration of BICYCLE western S�chu

n and northeastern Yśnn�n. ple of days in advance. You will be charged for
China (CAAC; ZhM
ngguó M�nh�ng) is the Most of China s Southwest is ideal for bik- your bicycle as cargo according to its weight.
civil aviation authority for numerous airlines, ing, a form of transport that opens up vast Hire At the other end it is held in storage for a small
including for Air China (CA; www.airchina.com.cn), areas to exploration and the opportunity to Established bicycle-hire shops exist in most daily fee of around Y2 and a small administra-
China Eastern Airlines (MU; www.ce-air.com), China see parts of the region you would miss travel- traveller centres in China s Southwest, the tion fee is payable when you collect it.
Southern Airlines (CZ; www.cs-air.com) and Sichuan ling by bus or train. Minority and rural areas best being at Y�ngshu�, Dąl�
, L�ji

ng and Transporting your bike by plane can be
Airlines (3U; www.scal.com.cn). Sichuan Airlines is are particularly rewarding, though they are J�
nghóng. In touristy places like Y�ngshu� expensive, but it s often less complicated than
T R A N S P O R T
TRANSPORT
1630
380
1250
980
1970
460
880
860
940
830
770
1290
630
660
490
1130
1300
820
840
430
710
470
1030
2500
570
640
970
790
790
650
860
630
560
780
630
480
710
730
1290
690
488 GET TING AROUND " " Boat lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com GET TING AROUND " " Car & Motorcyle 489
you can get a seat just before the bus departs, HITCHING
NAVIGATING CITIES
although if there are only one or two departures Hitching is never entirely safe in any country
At first glance, Chinese street names can be bewildering, with name changes common every few a day, try to book earlier otherwise you may in the world, and we don t recommend it.
hundred metres. The good news is that there is some logic to it, and a little basic Chinese will get a bad seat (towards the rear of the bus) or People who do choose to hitch will be safer
help to make navigating much easier. you may have to wait till the next departure. If if they travel in pairs and let someone know
Many road names are compound words made up of a series of directions that place the road possible, book the day before. Optional insur- where they are planning to go.
in context with all others in the city. Compass directions are particularly common in road names. ance is provided for an extra Y2 or so. On large Many people have hitchhiked in China, and
The directions are: b%1łi (north; S); n�n (south; WS); dM
ng (east; N); and x%2ł (west; �). So Dong Lu (N�ć) buses, seats are generally numbered on the some have been amazingly successful. It s not
literally means East Rd, while Xi Jie (�W�) means West St. ticket, but if the bus is only half-full you can sit officially sanctioned and the same dangers
Other words, which regularly crop up are zhM
ng (central; -N) and huan (ring, as in ring road; anywhere. When buying tickets, ask what dif- that apply elsewhere in the world also apply in
Żs). If you bring them together with some basic numerals, you could have Dongsanhuan Nanlu ferent buses go to your destination; tickets for China. Exercise caution, and if you re in any
(N NŻsWS�ć), which literally means  east third ring south road or the southeastern part of the third plusher express buses will be more expensive, doubt as to the intentions of your prospective
ring road. but far more comfortable. driver, say no.
Long-distance bus stations are often huge Hitching in China is rarely free, and pas-
and chaotic. There is often more than one bus sengers are expected to offer at least a tip.
by train. Some cyclists have not been charged airborne every time the bus hits a bump. Aim for station in town, each one generally serving the Some drivers might even ask for an unrea-
by CAAC; others have had to pay 1% of their an aisle seat if you have long legs. Chinese tend compass direction of your destination. sonable amount of money, so try to establish
fare per kilogram of excess weight. to avoid sitting next to the l�
owąi (see the boxed Local Chinese maps have a special symbol a figure early to avoid problems later. There
text, p199), so you may have an empty seat next for a bus station, meant to resemble the steer- is no Chinese signal for hitching, so just try
BOAT to you on all but the fullest buses. ing wheel of the bus. waving down a truck.
The best-known river trip is the boat ride Minibuses on shorter routes can wait
through the Three Gorges along the Yangzi infuriatingly until the bus is full before de- CAR & MOTORCYLE LOCAL TRANSPORT
River from Chóngq�ng (p458). The six-hour parting, dawdling at the side of the road and Driving a hire car around China is impossible While China boasts a huge and often ingen-
Li River (p166 ) boat trip from Gu�l�n to press-ganging hesitant pedestrians onto seats. unless you have a residence permit (p476) ious choice of local transport, vehicles can be
Y�ngshu� is also popular. Consequently what should be a 60-minute trip and a Chinese driving licence, so don t think slow and overburdened, and the transport
can take 1� hours or more. Between towns you can just jump in a car and blaze off into network is confusing for visitors. Unless the
BUS bus speeds are high, but growing urban traffic the wilds. For the latest update, contact Hertz town is small, walking is not usually recom-
Long-distance buses are an excellent way of can slow things to a crawl as your bus makes (%countrywide 800-810 8883; www.hertz.net.cn), but mended, since Chinese cities tend to be very
getting around China s Southwest. Routes are its way to and from the local bus station. The don t expect regulations to relax any time spread out. On the plus side, local transport is
extensive, tickets easy to get, vehicles are im- smaller the bus the less luggage room. Luggage soon. Hiring a motorcycle is similarly im- cheap. Chóngq�ng now benefits from a limited
proving, roads are becoming smoother and racks can be wafer-thin and bulky backpacks possible unless you have a residence permit. light-rail system.
buses stop in small towns and villages not may have to go on the floor; you ll only find Finding a car with a driver can be arranged
served by trains or planes. On the downside, luggage compartments on bigger buses. through major hotels, CITS or other travel Bus
prepare for cramped and painful trips on long, Drivers can develop cast-iron bladders agencies. Parts of the Southwest require hiring Apart from bikes, buses are the most common
time-consuming journeys; appalling and often from a life of slurping cold tea from jam jars, a 4WD and driver. means of getting around in the cities. Services
dangerous driving; and occasional breakdowns so toilet stops can be few and far between. As
that can throw a spanner into your itinerary. drivers lean on the horn at the slightest sign
ROAD DISTANCES (KM)
Not all long-distance buses have seatbelts, of movement ahead, things can get cacopho-
but all invariably come with looped w�
d�
, nous. Overtaking on blind corners doesn t
kung fu movies or karaoke DVDs with three- much faze drivers, so journeys are frequently
* Distances are approximate
dimensional sound. Most buses are now no- of the white-knuckle variety.
Chóngq�ng 340
smoking, but intransigent male smokers light On long routes, sleeper buses (w�płch
)
GŁjił 1000 1020
up regardless on smaller, short-haul routes. can be useful for reaching a destination over-
Gu ngyu�n 280 610 1300
The plushest long-haul coaches have airline- night. Bunks can have limited legroom and no
Gu�l�n 1380 950 1400 1550
style reclining seats, ample legroom and toilets. luggage storage, however. Try to keep an eye Gu�y�ng 680 350 670 950 870
KĄnm�ng 770 790 230 1050 1150 450
Bottles of mineral water are handed out by on your valuables.
N�nn�ng 1260 930 830 1500 360 850 740
hostesses on many long-distance routes; but On some rural routes you ll find miąnd%2ł (b
Wśzhx
u 1400 1070 1370 1680 380 980 1270 400
still stock up with snacks. "v) or taxivans that seat around seven. You ll
Xiąguł
n 850 1050 480 1300 1630 700 260 1000 1530
The shock absorbers on small buses (\�]; probably run into these on the way to Detian
xi�
ob

), minibuses and more ancient long- Waterfall in Gu�
ngx%2ł.
distance buses are poor, so avoid sitting at the
rear of the bus if possible. Long-distance trips Tickets
can eat into your travel time, so taking a night Tickets for long-distance buses are easier to
sleeper (if available) can save time. If you do sit in obtain than train tickets. Tickets for same-day
the back and the road is rough, expect to become travel are generally straightforward and usually
T R A N S P O R T
TRANSPORT
GŁjił
Gu�l�n
Gu�y�ng
N�nn�ng
Wśzhx
u
KĄnm�ng
Ch�ngdĄ
Chóngq�ng
Gu ngyu�n
490 GET TING AROUND " " Train lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com GET TING AROUND " " Train 491
are fairly extensive, buses go to most places half the price of what a regular four-wheeled Hard seat (lxż^; y�ng zu�) is actually gen- Reservations & Tickets
and fares are inexpensive (typically Y1). The taxi would charge. If you turn a blind eye to the erally padded, but the hard-seat section can The vast majority of tickets are one-way (US
problem is that they are almost always packed, hazards, it s a quick and cheap way of getting be hard on your sanity  it can be very dirty z; d

nch�ng) only. Buying hard-seat tickets
traffic can be slow and bus routes and signs around. You must wear a helmet  the driver and noisy, and painful on the long haul. Hard at short notice is usually no hassle, but you
are in Chinese only. will provide one. Obviously, there is no meter, seat on tourist trains, express trains or newer will not always be successful in getting a re-
so fares must be agreed upon in advance. trains is more pleasant, less crowded and air- served seat. Tickets can only be purchased
Taxi Prices of all of the above can compare with conditioned. with cash.
Taxis (śQ�y}lfŹ; chk
zk
q�ch
) can be the best taxis, however, so check beforehand and bar- Since hard seat is the only thing most lo- Tickets for hard sleepers can usually be
way to get around. They are cheap and plentiful gain. Also note that none of the above offer cals can afford it s packed to the gills. You obtained in major cities, but with more dif-
and always pursuing customers, so finding one decent protection in a crash, so taking a taxi should get a ticket with an assigned seat ficulty in quiet backwaters. Don t ever expect
is rarely difficult. Some cities such as Li�
zhM
u is often the more sensible option. number, but if seats have sold out, ask for a to obtain a hard-sleeper ticket on the day of
(p189) sport fleets of new Hyundai taxis. standing ticket (ąeż^; wśzu�; or Łzhy; zhąn- travel so plan ahead and buy your ticket two
Taxi rates per kilometre are clearly marked TRAIN piąo), which at least gets you on the train, or three days in advance, especially if you are
on a sticker on the rear side window of the taxi; Although crowded, trains are a fantastic way where you may find a seat or you can up- heading to popular destinations. As a general
flag fall rates vary from city to city and also to get around in reasonable speed and com- grade (see below). Because hard-seat tickets rule there is an advance-purchase limit of up
depend upon the size and quality of vehicle. fort. The network covers every province, ex- are relatively easy to obtain, you may have to 10 days prior to departure.
Taxi drivers speak little, if any English. If cept H�
in�n Island, with the link to Lhasa in to travel hard seat even if you re willing to Buying hard-sleeper tickets in train stations
you don t speak Chinese, bring a map or have Tibet completed in 2006. At any given time pay for a higher class. can be trying. Some large stations have win-
your destination written down in characters. it is estimated that more than 10 million Chi- On some short journeys, trains have soft- dows manned by someone with rudimentary
It helps if you know the way to your destina- nese are travelling on a train in China, except seat (oŹż^; ru�
n zu�) carriages. These trains English skills. Purchasing your ticket from
tion; sit in the front with a map. at Chinese New Year when the whole country have comfortable seats arranged two abreast the main ticket hall (.UhyS; sh�upiąot%2łng) 
If you encounter a taxi driver you trust or seems to be on the railway. and overcrowding is not permitted. Soft seats typically accessed by a separate entrance from
who speaks a smattering of English, ask for his Trains are punctual and leave on the dot. A cost about the same as hard sleeper and car- the departure hall  can be a trial of endur-
card ( TGr; m�ngpiąn). You can hire them for variety of classes means you can navigate as riages are often double-decker. ance, especially at the larger train stations.
a single trip or on a daily basis  the latter is you wish: if you can endure a hard seat, get- Hard-sleeper (lxgS; y�ng w�) carriages are Some stations are surprisingly well run, but
worth considering if there s a group of people ting from A to B is very cheap. Opting for a made up of doorless compartments with half a others are bedlam. There are windows at large
who can split the cost. soft sleeper means things can get pricey. dozen bunks in three tiers, and sheets, pillows train stations for partial refunds on unused
While most taxis have meters, they are The new fleet of trains that run intercity and blankets are provided. It does very nicely tickets.
often only switched on in larger towns and routes is a vast improvement on the old mod- as an overnight hotel. There is a small price If you can t face the queues and uncer-
cities. If the meter is not used (on an excur- els  they are much cleaner and equipped difference between berths, with the lowest tainty of getting a sleeper ticket at the train
sion out of town for example), a price should with air-con. The new  Z class express trains bunk (Nś"; xiąpł) the most expensive and station, turn to your hotel travel desk or
be negotiated before you get into the taxi, and are limited to routes between B%1łij%2łng and the top-most bunk ( Nś"; shąngpł) the cheap- travel agent (such as CITS), who can sell
bargaining employed. If you want the meter Shąngh�
i and B%1łij%2łng and X%2ł

n: they are est. You may wish to take the middle bunk you a ticket for a service charge. Telephone
to be used, ask for d�
bi�
o (Sbh�). very plush, with meals thrown in on some (-Nś"; zhM
ngpł) as all and sundry invade the booking services exist, but they only oper-
It is hard to find rear seat belts in China s routes, mobile phone charging points and lower berth to use it as a seat during the day, ate in Chinese. Many towns and cities also
older taxis, and front passenger seat belts are well-designed bunks. while the top one has little headroom and have ticket offices dotted around town where
so rarely used they are often grimy or locked Most trains have dining cars where you can puts you near the speakers. As with all other you can obtain train tickets (for a surcharge
solid. find passable food. Railway staff also regularly classes, smoking is prohibited in hard sleeper. of around Y5); such outlets are listed in the
walk by with pushcarts offering snacks. Lights and speakers go out at around 10pm. relevant chapters.
Other Many train stations require that luggage be Hard-sleeper tickets are the most difficult of Touts swarm around train stations selling
An often bewildering array of ramshackle X-rayed before entering the waiting area. all to buy; you almost always need to buy these black-market tickets; this can be a way of get-
transport options infests China, providing Virtually all train stations have left-luggage a few days in advance. ting scarce tickets, but foreigners frequently
employment for legions of elderly Chinese. rooms (�[X[Y; j�cśn chł) where you can Soft sleeper (oŹgS; ru�
n w�) is the most get ripped off. If you purchase a ticket from a
The motor tricycle ( NnŹidXbfŹ; s

nlśn safely dump your bags for about Y5 to Y10 comfortable, with four bunks in a closed tout, carefully check the departure date and
mótuM
ch
)  for want of a better name  is an (per day per item). compartment. Soft sleeper costs around twice the destination. As with air travel, buying
enclosed three-wheeled vehicle with a driver An excellent online source of information as much as hard sleeper (the upper berth is tickets around Chinese New Year and the 1
at the front, a small motorbike engine below on China s rail network is www.seat61.com slightly cheaper than the lower berth), so it May and 1 October holidays can be hard and
and seats for two passengers behind. They /China.htm, which also has useful links to rail is usually easier to purchase soft rather than prices increase on some routes.
tend to congregate outside the train and bus timetables in English, maps of the Chinese rail hard sleeper; however, more and more Chi- Tickets can also be bought online at www
stations in larger towns and cities. network and tips on buying tickets. nese are travelling this way. .chinatripadvisor.com or www.china-train
The pedicab ( NnŹfŹ; s

nlśnch
) is a If you get on the train with an unreserved -ticket.com, but it s much cheaper to buy your
pedal-powered tricycle with a seat to carry Classes seating ticket, you can find the conductor and ticket at the station. For trains from Hong
passengers. Train tickets are calculated simply according upgrade (e�hy; b�
piąo) yourself to a hard Kong to Shąngh�
i, Gu�
ngzhM
u or B%1łij%2łng,
In some towns (eg B%1łih�
i) you can get a ride the kilometre distance travelled and, on longer sleeper, soft seat or soft sleeper if there are tickets can be ordered online at no mark up
on the back of someone s motorcycle for about routes, the class of travel. any available. from www.kcrc.com.
T R A N S P O R T
TRANSPORT
492 GET TING AROUND " " Train lonelyplanet.com
Timetables ments. The full timetable details 2400 trains,
Paperback train timetables for the entire available either in printed form or as two pdf
country are published every April and Oc- files (for a fee). The quick reference timetable
tober, but they are available in Chinese only pdf can be downloaded for free. Also consult
(Y5). Even to Chinese readers, working one s www.travelchinaguide.com/china-trains/
way through their Byzantine layout is drain- which allows you to enter your departure point
ing. The resourceful Duncan Peattie (www.chinatt and destination, and gives you the departure
.org) publishes an English-language Chinese times, arrival times and train numbers of trains
Railway Timetable, at the time of writing in running that route. Try www.chinahighlights
its 4th edition. Both quick reference and full .com/china-trains/index.htm for user-friendly
train timetables are available, as well as supple- timetables in English.
TRANSPORT
493
Health
In case of accident or illness it s best just
to get a taxi and go to hospital directly  try
CONTENTS
to avoid dealing with the authorities if it is
at all possible.
Before You Go 493
The following advice is a general guide only
Insurance 493
and does not replace the advice of a doctor
Recommended Vaccinations 494
trained in travel medicine.
Internet Resources 495
Further Reading 495
In Transit 495
BEFORE YOU GO
Deep Vein Thrombosis
(DVT) 495
Pack medications in their original, clearly
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 495
labelled, containers. A signed and dated
In China 496
letter from your physician describing your
Availability of Health Care 496
medical conditions and medications (using
Infectious Diseases 496
generic names) is also a good idea. If car-
Traveller s Diarrhoea 498
rying syringes or needles, be sure to have a
Environmental Hazards 498
physician s letter documenting their medi-
Women s Health 500
cal necessity. If you have a heart condition,
Traditional Medicine 500
bring a copy of your ECG taken just prior
to travelling.
If you take any regular medication bring
Overall China is a reasonably healthy country double your needs in case of loss or theft. In
to travel in, but there are a number of health China you can buy many medications over the
issues worthy of your attention. Pre-existing counter without a doctor s prescription, but
medical conditions, such as heart disease, and it can be difficult to find some of the newer
accidental injury (especially traffic accidents), drugs, particularly the latest antidepressant
account for most life-threatening problems. drugs, blood pressure medications and con-
However, becoming ill in some way is not traceptive methods. In general it is not advised
unusual. to buy medications locally without a doctor s
Outside of the major cities medical care is advice.
often inadequate and food and waterborne Make sure you get your teeth checked be-
diseases are also common. Malaria is still fore you travel, and if you wear glasses take a
present in the Southwest and high-altitude spare pair and your prescription.
sickness can be a problem, if you are going
to Tibet. INSURANCE
Even if you are fit and healthy, don t travel
without health insurance  accidents do hap-
HEALTH ADVISORIES pen. Declare any existing medical conditions
you have  the insurance company will check
It s usually a good idea to consult your
if your problem is pre-existing and will not
government s travel-health website before
cover you if it is undeclared.
departure, if one is available:
You may require extra cover for adventure
Australia (www.dfat.gov.au/travel/) activities such as rock climbing. If you re un-
Canada (www.travelhealth.gc.ca) insured, emergency evacuation is expensive
New Zealand (www.mfat.govt.nz/travel) (receiving bills of more than US$100,000 is
UK (www.dh.gov.uk) Search for travel in the site not uncommon).
index Make sure you also keep all the documen-
US (www.cdc.gov/travel/) tation related to any medical expenses you
incur.
H E A L T H
494 BEFORE YOU GO " " Recommended Vaccinations lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com IN TRANSIT " " Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT ) 495
MEDICAL CHECKLIST Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com), which pro-
RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS
Recommended items for a personal medi- vides complete travel health recommenda-
The World Health Organization (WHO) recommends the following vaccinations for short-term
cal kit: tions for every country and is updated daily.
travellers to China:
Antibacterial cream, eg Muciprocin The Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC;
Adult diphtheria and tetanus Single booster recommended if none in the previous 10 years. Side effects
Antibiotics for skin infections, eg Amox- www.cdc.gov) website also has good general in-
include sore arm and fever. A new ADT vaccine containing pertussis is also available and may be recommended by icillin/Clavulanate or Cephalexin formation.
your doctor.
Antibiotics for diarrhoea, including Nor-
Hepatitis A Vaccine provides almost 100% protection for up to a year; a booster after 12 months will also provide floxacin, Ciprofloxacin, or Azithromycin FURTHER READING
at least another 20 years protection. Mild side effects such as headache and sore arm do occur in 5% to 10% of for bacterial diarrhoea; or Tinidazole for Lonely Planet s Healthy Travel  Asia & India
people. giardia or amoebic dysentery is a handy pocket size and packed with use-
Hepatitis B Now considered routine for most travellers. Given as three shots over six months. A rapid schedule is
Antifungal cream, eg Clotrimazole ful information including pretrip planning,
also available, as is a combined vaccination with Hepatitis A. Side effects are mild and uncommon, usually headache
Antihistamine  there are many options, emergency first aid, immunisation, and in-
and sore arm. In 95% of people lifetime protection results. eg Cetrizine for daytime and Promethaz- formation on diseases and what to do if you
Measles, mumps and rubella Two doses of MMR are recommended unless you have had the diseases. Oc- ine for night-time get sick on the road. Other recommended
casionally a rash and flu-like illness can develop a week after receiving the vaccine. Many adults under 40 require a references include Traveller s Health by Dr
Antiseptic, eg Betadine
booster.
Antispasmodic for stomach cramps, eg Richard Dawood and Travelling Well by Dr
Typhoid Recommended unless your trip is less than a week. The vaccine offers around 70% protection, lasts for Buscopan Deborah Mills  check out the website (www
two to three years and comes as a single shot. Tablets are also available; however, the injection is usually recom-
Decongestant, eg Pseudoephedrine .travellingwell.com.au).
mended as it has fewer side effects. Sore arm and fever may occur. A vaccine combining Hepatitis A and typhoid in a
DEET-based insect repellent
single shot is now available.
Diamox if going to high altitudes
Varicella If you haven t had chickenpox, discuss this vaccination with your doctor.
An oral rehydration solution (eg Gas- IN TRANSIT
trolyte), diarrhoea  stopper (eg Lopera-
The following immunisations are recommended for long-term travellers (more than one month) mide) and antinausea medication (eg DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT)
or those at special risk: Prochlorperazine) Deep vein thrombosis is a condition that
Influenza A single shot lasts one year and is recommended for those over 65 years of age or with underlying medi-
Elastoplasts, bandages, gauze, thermom- occurs when blood clots form in the legs
cal conditions such as heart or lung disease. eter (but not mercury), sterile needles during flights, chiefly because of prolonged
Japanese B encephalitis A series of three injections with a booster after two years. Recommended if spending and syringes, safety pins and tweezers immobility. Though most blood clots are
more than one month in rural areas in the summer months, or more than three months in the country.
Ibuprofen or another anti-inflammatory reabsorbed uneventfully, some may break off
Pneumonia A single injection with a booster after five years is recommended for all travellers over 65 years of
Indigestion tablets, such as Quick Eze or and travel through the blood vessels to the
age or those travellers with underlying medical conditions that compromise immunity such as heart or lung disease, Mylanta lungs, where they may cause life-threatening
cancer or HIV.
Iodine tablets (unless you are pregnant complications.
Rabies Three injections in all. A booster after one year will then provide 10 years protection. Side effects are or you have a thyroid problem) to purify The chief symptom of DVT is swelling or
rare  occasionally headache and sore arm. water pain of the foot, ankle or calf, usually but not
Tuberculosis A complex issue. High-risk adult long-term travellers are usually recommended to have a TB skin always on just one side. When a blood clot
Laxative, eg Coloxyl
test before and after travel, rather than vaccination. Only one vaccine is given in a lifetime. Children under five Paracetamol travels to the lungs, it may cause chest pain

spending more than three months in China should be vaccinated.
Permethrin to impregnate clothing and and difficulty in breathing. Travellers with
mosquito nets any of these symptoms should immediately
Pregnant women and children should ensure they receive advice from a doctor specialised in
Steroid cream for allergic/itchy rashes, eg seek medical attention.
travel medicine. 1% to 2% hydrocortisone To prevent the development of DVT on
long flights you should walk about the cabin,
Sunscreen and hat
Thrush (vaginal yeast infection) treat- perform isometric compressions of the leg
RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS an International Certificate of Vaccination ment, eg Clotrimazole pessaries or Dif- muscles (ie contract the leg muscles while sit-
Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your (otherwise known as the yellow booklet), lucan tablet ting), drink plenty of fluids, and avoid alcohol
best source of information; they stock all which will list all the vaccinations you ve
Ural or equivalent if prone to urinary and tobacco. Those at increased risk should
available vaccines and will be able to give received. infections wear compression socks.
specific recommendations for you and your The only vaccine that will be required
trip. The doctors will take into account factors of you by international regulations is yel- INTERNET RESOURCES JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS
such as past vaccination history, the length of low fever. Proof of this vaccination will only A wealth of travel health advice is on the in- Jet lag is common when crossing more than
your trip, activities you may be undertaking be required if you have visited a country ternet. For further information, Lonely Planet five time zones; it results in insomnia, fa-
and underlying medical conditions, such as that is in the yellow fever zone within the (www.lonelyplanet.com) is a good place to start. tigue, malaise or nausea. To avoid jet lag
pregnancy. six days prior to entering China. If you are The World Health Organization (WHO; www.who try drinking plenty of fluids (nonalcoholic)
Most vaccines don t produce immunity going to be travelling to China directly from .int/ith/) publishes a superb book called Inter- and eating light meals. Upon arrival, seek
in individuals until at least two weeks after South America or Africa, check with a travel national Travel & Health, which is revised exposure to natural sunlight and readjust
they re given, so visit a doctor six to eight clinic as to whether you need yellow fever annually and is available online at no cost. your schedule (for meals, sleep etc) as soon
weeks before departure. Ask your doctor for vaccination. Another website of general interest is MD as possible.
H E A L T H
HEALTH
496 IN CHINA " " Availability of Health Care lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com IN CHINA " " Infectious Diseases 497
Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate medical care should be sought if bird flu is sus- Japanese B Encephalitis
Choose accommodation that has screens
(Dramamine), promethazine (Phenergan) pected. At the time of writing there have been This is a rare disease in travellers; however, and fans (if not air-conditioned).
and meclizine (Antivert, Bonine) are usually no recorded cases in travellers or expatriates. vaccination is recommended if spending more Impregnate clothing with permethrin in

the first choice for treating motion sickness. There is currently no vaccine available to than a month in rural areas during the sum- high-risk areas.
Their main side effect is drowsiness. A herbal prevent bird flu. For up-to-date information mer months, or more than three months in Wear long sleeves and trousers in light

alternative is ginger, which works like a charm check these two websites: the country. There is no treatment available colours.
for some people. www.who.int/en/ and one-third of infected people will die, Use mosquito coils.

www.avianinfluenza.com.au while another one-third suffer permanent Spray your room with insect repellent

brain damage. before going out for your evening meal.
IN CHINA Dengue
This mosquito-borne disease occurs in Chi- Malaria Rabies
AVAILABILITY OF HEALTH CARE na s Southwest. It can only be prevented by For such a serious and potentially deadly This is an increasingly common problem
There are now a number of good clinics in avoiding mosquito bites; there is no vaccine. disease, there is an enormous amount of in China. This fatal disease is spread by the
major cities catering to travellers. Although Dengue-carrying mosquitoes bite day and misinformation concerning malaria. Before bite or lick of an infected animal  most
they are usually more expensive than local night, so avoid insects at all times. Symptoms you travel, seek medical advice to see if your commonly a dog. You should seek medical
facilities, you may feel more comfortable deal- include high fever, severe headache and body trip warrants taking antimalaria medication advice immediately after any animal bite and
ing with a Western-trained doctor who speaks ache (previously dengue was known as  break and if it does, to ensure you receive the right commence post exposure treatment. Having
your language. These clinics usually have a bone fever ). Some people develop a rash and medication and dosage for you. pretravel vaccination means the post bite
good understanding of the best local hospital diarrhoea. There is no specific treatment  just Malaria has been nearly eradicated in China treatment is greatly simplified. If an animal
facilities and close contacts with insurance rest and Paracetamol. Do not take aspirin. See and is not generally a risk for visitors to the cit- bites you, gently wash the wound with soap
companies should you need evacuation. a doctor to be diagnosed and monitored. ies and most tourist areas, but it occurs in rural and water, and apply an iodine-based anti-
Self-treatment may be appropriate if your areas in China s Southwest  principally Yśn- septic. If you are not prevaccinated you will
problem is minor (eg traveller s diarrhoea), Hepatitis A n�n and Gu�
ngx%2ł bordering onto Myanmar need to receive rabies immunoglobulin as
you are carrying the relevant medication and A problem throughout China, this food and (Burma), Laos and Vietnam and H�
in�n. soon as possible, followed by a series of five
you cannot attend a clinic. If you think you waterborne virus infects the liver, causing jaun- There is more limited risk in remote vaccines over the next month. Those prevac-
may have a serious disease, especially malaria, dice (yellow skin and eyes), nausea and lethargy. rural areas of Fśjiąn, Gu�
ngdM
ng, Gu�
ngx%2ł, cinated require only two shots of vaccine
do not waste time  travel to the nearest qual- There is no specific treatment for hepatitis A, Gu�zhM
u, and S�chu

n. Generally medication after a bite. Contact your insurance company
ity facility to receive attention. you just need to allow time for the liver to heal. is only advised if you are visiting rural H�
in�n, to find the nearest clinic that stocks rabies
Buying medication over the counter in All travellers to China should be vaccinated. Yśnn�n or Gu�
ngx%2ł. immunoglobulin and vaccine. It is common
China is not recommended, as fake medica- Malaria is caused by a parasite transmitted to find that immunoglobulin is unavailable
tions and poorly stored or out-of-date drugs Hepatitis B by the bite of an infected mosquito. The most outside of major centres  it is crucial that
are common. To find the nearest reliable med- The only sexually transmitted disease pre- important symptom of malaria is fever, but you get to a clinic that stocks immunoglobu-
ical facility, contact your insurance company ventable by vaccination, hepatitis B is spread general symptoms such as headache, diar- lin as soon as possible if you have had a bite
or your embassy. by contact with infected body fluids, includ- rhoea, cough or chills may also occur. Di- that has broken the skin.
ing via sexual contact. The long-term conse- agnosis can only be made by taking a blood
INFECTIOUS DISEASES quences can include liver cancer and cirrhosis. sample. Schistosomiasis
Avian Influenza (Bird Flu) All travellers to China should be vaccinated. Two strategies should be combined to Also known as bilharzia, this disease is found in
 Bird flu or Influenza A (H5N1) is a subtype of prevent malaria  mosquito avoidance and the central Yangzi River (Ch�ng Ji

ng) basin. It
the type A influenza virus. This virus typically HIV antimalaria medications. Most people who is carried in water by minute worms which in-
infects birds and not humans; however, in 1997 HIV is transmitted via contaminated body catch malaria are taking inadequate or no fect certain varieties of freshwater snail found
the first documented case of bird-to-human fluids. Avoid unsafe sex, blood transfusions antimalarial medication. in rivers, streams, lakes and particularly be-
transmission was recorded in Hong Kong. As of and injections (unless you can see a clean You should always take general insect hind dams. The worm enters through the skin
June 2007, there have been 25 confirmed cases needle being used) in China. Always use con- avoidance measures, to help to prevent all and attaches itself to your intestines or bladder.
of bird flu in China, of whom 15 have died. Cur- doms if you have sex with a new partner and insect-borne diseases, not just malaria. Travel- The infection often causes no symptoms until
rently very close contact with dead or sick birds never share needles. lers are advised to prevent mosquito bites by the disease is well established (several months
is the principal source of infection and bird-to- taking these steps: to years after exposure) and damage to internal
human transmission does not easily occur. Influenza
Use a DEET-containing insect repel- organs irreversible.
Symptoms include high fever and typical Present particularly in the winter months, lent on exposed skin. Wash this off at Avoiding swimming or bathing in fresh
influenza-like symptoms with rapid deteriora- symptoms of the flu include high fever, muscle night, as long as you are sleeping under a water where bilharzia is present is the main
tion leading to respiratory failure and death in aches, runny nose, cough and sore throat. It can mosquito net. Natural repellents such as method of prevention. A blood test is the most
many cases. The early administration of anti- be very severe in people over the age of 65 or in Citronella can be effective, but must be reliable way to diagnose the disease, but the
viral drugs such as Tamiflu is recommended to those with underlying medical conditions such applied more frequently than products test will not show positive until a number of
improve the chances of survival. At this time it as heart disease or diabetes  vaccination is rec- containing DEET. weeks after exposure. Effective treatment is
is not routinely recommended for travellers to ommended for these individuals. There is no
Sleep under a mosquito net impregnated available. There is no way of knowing if water
carry Tamiflu with them  rather immediate specific treatment, just rest and painkillers. with permethrin. is infected.
H E A L T H
HEALTH
498 IN CHINA " " Traveller s Diarrhoea lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com IN CHINA " " Environmental Hazards 499
STDs Loperamide is just a  stopper and doesn t tomatic treatments such as throat lozenges,
DRINKING WATER
Sexually transmitted diseases most common get to the cause of the problem. It can be help- and cough and cold tablets.
in China include herpes, warts, syphilis, ful, for example if you have to go on a long
Never drink tap water.

gonorrhoea and chlamydia. People carrying bus ride. Don t take Loperamide if you have Altitude Sickness
Bottled water is generally safe  check

these diseases often have no signs of infec- a fever, or blood in your stools. Seek medical There are bus journeys in Tibet and Q%2łngh�
i
the seal is intact at purchase.
tion. Condoms will prevent gonorrhoea and attention quickly if you do not respond to an where the road goes over 5000m. Acclimatis-
Avoid ice.

chlamydia but not warts or herpes. If after appropriate antibiotic. ing to such extreme elevations takes several
a sexual encounter you develop any rash, weeks at least, but most travellers come up
Avoid fresh juices  they may have been

lumps, discharge or pain when passing urine Amoebic Dysentery from sea level very fast  a bad move!
watered down.
seek immediate medical attention. If you have Amoebic dysentery is actually rare in travellers Acute mountain sickness (AMS) results
Boiling water is the most efficient

been sexually active during your travels have and is overdiagnosed. Symptoms are similar from making a rapid ascent to altitudes above
method of purifying it.
an STD check on your return home. to bacterial diarrhoea, ie fever, bloody diar- 2700m. It usually commences within 24 to 48
The best chemical purifier is iodine. It

rhoea and generally feeling unwell. You should hours of arriving at altitude and symptoms
should not be used by pregnant women
Tuberculosis (TB) always seek reliable medical care if you have for AMS include headache, nausea, fatigue
or those with thyroid problems.
Medical and aid workers, and long-term travel- blood in your diarrhoea. Treatment involves and loss of appetite (it very much feels like
lers who have significant contact with the local two drugs: Tinidazole or Metronidazole to kill a hangover).
Water filters should also filter out

population, should take precautions against the parasite in your gut, and then a second drug If you have altitude sickness the cardinal
viruses. Ensure your filter has a chemical
TB. Vaccination is usually only given to chil- to kill the cysts. If left untreated complications rule is that you must not go higher as you are
barrier such as iodine and a small pore
dren under the age of five, but adults at risk are such as liver or gut abscesses can occur. sure to get sicker and could develop one of the
size, eg less than four microns.
recommended to have pre- and post-travel TB more severe and potentially deadly forms of
testing. The main symptoms are fever, cough, Giardiasis the disease. These are high altitude pulmonary
weight loss, night sweats and tiredness. Giardia is a parasite that is relatively common in oedema (HAPE) and high altitude cerebral Food
travellers. Symptoms include nausea, bloating, oedema (HACE). Both of these forms of al- Eating in restaurants is the biggest risk factor
Typhoid excess gas, fatigue and intermittent diarrhoea. titude sickness are medical emergencies and for contracting traveller s diarrhoea. Ways to
This serious bacterial infection is spread via  Eggy burps are often attributed solely to giar- there are no rescue facilities similar to those avoid it include eating only freshly cooked
food and water. Symptoms are a high and dia, but work in Nepal has shown that they are in the Nepal Himalaya here, so prevention is food, and avoiding food that has been sitting
slowly progressive fever, headache and it may not specific to giardia. The parasite will eventu- the best policy. around in buffets.
be accompanied by a dry cough and stomach ally go away if left untreated but this can take AMS can be prevented by  graded ascent  Peel all fruit, cook vegetables and soak sal-
pain. Be aware that vaccination is not 100% months. The treatment of choice is Tinidazole, it is recommended that once you are above ads in iodine water for at least 20 minutes.
effective so you must still be careful with what with Metronidazole being a second option. 3000m you ascend a maximum of 300m daily Eat in busy restaurants with a high turnover
you eat and drink. All travellers spending more and have an extra rest day every 1000m. You of customers.
than a week in China should be vaccinated. Intestinal Worms can also use a medication called Diamox as a
These parasites are most common in rural, prevention or treatment for AMS after dis- Heat Exhaustion
TRAVELLER S DIARRHOEA tropical areas. Some may be ingested with food cussion with a doctor experienced in altitude Dehydration or salt deficiency can cause heat
Traveller s diarrhoea is by far the most com- such as undercooked meat (eg tapeworms) and medicine. Diamox should not be taken by exhaustion. Take time to acclimatise to high
mon problem affecting travellers  between some enter through your skin (eg hookworms). people with a sulphur drug allergy. temperatures, drink sufficient liquids and do
30% to 50% of people will suffer from it within Infestations may not show up for some time, If you have altitude sickness you should not do anything too physically demanding.
two weeks of starting their trip. In most cases, and although they are generally not serious, rest where you are for a day or two until your Salt deficiency is characterised by fatigue,
traveller s diarrhoea is caused by a bacteria if left untreated some can cause severe health symptoms resolve. You can then carry on, but lethargy, headaches, giddiness and muscle
(there are numerous potential culprits), and problems later. Consider having a stool test ensure you follow the graded ascent guidelines. cramps; salt tablets may help, but adding extra
therefore responds promptly to treatment with when you return home to check for these and If symptoms are getting worse you must de- salt to your food is better.
antibiotics. to determine the appropriate treatment. scend immediately before you are faced with
Treatment with antibiotics will depend on a life-threatening situation. Hypothermia
your situation  how sick you are, how quickly ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS There is no way of predicting who will suffer Too much cold can be just as dangerous as
you need to get better, where you are etc. Trav- Air Pollution from AMS but certain factors predispose you too much heat. If you are trekking at high
eller s diarrhoea is defined as the passage of Air pollution is becoming a significant prob- to it  rapid ascent; carrying a heavy load and altitudes or simply taking a long bus trip over
more than three watery bowel actions within lem in many Chinese cities due to increasing working hard; and having a seemingly minor mountains, particularly at night, be aware.
24 hours, plus at least one other symptom industrialisation. People with underlying res- illness such as a chest infection or diarrhoea. At high altitude it can go from being mildly
such as fever, cramps, nausea, vomiting or piratory conditions should seek advice from Make sure you drink at least 3L of noncaffein- warm to blisteringly cold in a matter of min-
feeling generally unwell. their doctor prior to travel to ensure they have ated drinks daily to stay well hydrated. utes  blizzards have a way of just coming out
Treatment consists of staying well hydrated; adequate medications in case their condition The sun is intense at altitude so take care of nowhere. If you re out walking, cycling or
rehydration solutions like Gastrolyte are the worsens. It is very common for healthy people with sun protection and ensure you have ad- hitching, this can be dangerous.
best for this. Antibiotics such as Norfloxacin, to develop irritating coughs, runny noses etc equate clothing to avoid hypothermia  tem- It is surprisingly easy to progress from very
Ciprofloxacin or Azithromycin will kill the while in urban Chinese centres as a result of peratures drop rapidly once the sun goes down cold to dangerously cold due to a combination
bacteria quickly. the pollution. It is a good idea to carry symp- and winds can be intense. of wind, wet clothing, fatigue and hunger,
H E A L T H
HEALTH
� Lonely Planet Publications
500 IN CHINA " " Women s Health lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com 501
even if the air temperature is above freezing. It quality medical facilities available at your desti-
is best to dress in layers; silk, wool and some of nation and ensure you continue your standard
the new artificial fibres are all good insulating antenatal care at these facilities. Avoid rural
materials. A hat is important, as a lot of heat travel in areas with poor transportation and
is lost through the head. A strong, waterproof medical facilities. Most of all, ensure travel in-
outer layer (and a space blanket for emergen- surance covers all pregnancy-related possibili-
cies) is essential. Carry basic supplies, includ- ties, including premature labour. Malaria is a
ing food containing simple sugars to generate high-risk disease in pregnancy. WHO recom-
heat quickly, and fluid to drink. mends that pregnant women do not travel to
Symptoms of hypothermia are exhaustion, areas with Chloroquine-resistant malaria.
numb skin (particularly the toes and fingers), Traveller s diarrhoea can quickly lead to de-
shivering, slurred speech, irrational or violent hydration and result in inadequate blood flow
behaviour, lethargy, stumbling, dizzy spells, to the placenta. Many of the drugs used to treat
muscle cramps and violent bursts of energy. various diarrhoea bugs are not recommended in
To treat mild hypothermia, get the person out pregnancy. Azithromycin is considered safe.
of the wind and/or rain, remove their cloth- Supplies of sanitary products may not be
ing if wet and replace with dry, warm cloth- readily available in rural areas. Birth control
ing. Give hot liquids  not alcohol  and some options may be limited so bring adequate sup-
high-kilojoule, easily digestible food. The early plies of your own form of contraception. Heat,
recognition and treatment of mild hypothermia humidity and antibiotics can all contribute to
is the only way to prevent severe hypothermia, a thrush. Treatment is with antifungal creams
critical condition requiring medical attention. and pessaries such as Clotrimazole. A practi-
cal alternative is a single tablet of fluconazole
Insect Bites & Stings (Diflucan). Urinary tract infections can be pre-
Bedbugs don t carry disease but their bites are cipitated by dehydration or long bus journeys
very itchy. They live in the cracks of furniture without toilet stops; bring suitable antibiotics.
and walls and then migrate to the bed at night
to feed on you. You can treat the itch with an TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
antihistamine. Lice inhabit various parts of Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) views
the human body but most commonly the head the human body as an energy system in which
and pubic areas. Transmission is via close the basic substances of q� (l; vital energy),
contact with an affected person. Lice can be j%2łng (�|; essence), xuŁ (@�; blood, the body s
difficult to treat and you may need numerous nourishing fluids) and t�
yŁ (SO�m; body fluids;
applications of an antilice shampoo such as blood and other organic fluids) function. The
permethrin. Pubic lice (crab lice) are usually concept of Yin and Yang is fundamental to the
contracted from sexual contact. system. Disharmony between Yin and Yang or
Ticks are contracted after walking in rural within the basic substances may be a result of
areas. Ticks are commonly found behind the internal causes (emotions), external causes
ears, on the belly and in armpits. If you have had (climatic conditions) or miscellaneous causes
a tick bite and experience symptoms such as a (work, exercise, sex etc). Treatment modali-
rash at the site of the bite or elsewhere, fever or ties include acupuncture, massage, herbs, diet
muscle aches you should see a doctor. Doxycy- and q�gM
ng (lźR), and aim to bring these
cline prevents some tick-borne diseases. elements back into balance. These therapies
are particularly useful for treating chronic
WOMEN S HEALTH diseases and are gaining interest and respect
Pregnant women should receive specialised ad- in the Western medical system. Conditions
vice before travelling. The ideal time to travel is that can be particularly suitable for traditional
the second trimester (between 14 and 28 weeks); methods include chronic fatigue, arthritis,
the risk of pregnancy-related problems is at its irritable bowel syndrome and some chronic
� Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
lowest and pregnant women generally feel at skin conditions.
their best. During the first trimester there is a Be aware  natural doesn t always mean
restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
risk of miscarriage and in the third trimester  safe ; there can be drug interactions between
only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
complications such as premature labour and herbal medicines and Western medicines. If
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
high blood pressure are possible. It s wise to using both systems ensure you inform both
travel with a companion. Always carry a list of practitioners what the other has prescribed.
the above -  Do the right thing with our content.
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