DiningatDownton

TraditionsoftheTableFromTheUnofficialGuideto

DowntonAbbey

ElizabethFellow

AllRightsReserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced

inanyformorbyanymeans,includingscanning,photocopying,or
otherwisewithoutpriorwrittenpermissionofthecopyrightholder.

DisclaimerandTermsofUse:TheAuthorandPublisherhavestrivedto

beasaccurateandcompleteaspossibleinthecreationofthisbook,
notwithstandingthefactthattheydonotwarrantorrepresentatanytimethatthe
contentswithinareaccurateduetotherapidlychangingnatureoftheInternet.
Whileallattemptshavebeenmadetoverifyinformationprovidedinthis
publication,theAuthorandPublisherassumenoresponsibilityforerrors,
omissions,orcontraryinterpretationofthesubjectmatterherein.Anyperceived
slightsofspecificpersons,peoples,ororganizationsareunintentional.In
practicaladvicebooks,likeanythingelseinlife,therearenoguaranteesof
incomemadeorhealthbenefitsreceived.Thisbookisnotintendedforuseasa
sourceofmedical,legal,business,accountingorfinancialadvice.Allreadersare
advisedtoseekservicesofcompetentprofessionalsinmedical,legal,business,
accounting,andfinancematters.

PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmerica

CheckoutsomeofElizabeth’sotherbooks!!!

Introduction–You’reInvitedtotheAbbey

Deeplyengrossedinabook,youarecurledupbythefire.Thedoorto

thedrawingroomopens,andinwalksJames,yourfamilybutler.Silvertrayin
hand,hewalksovertothesofa.

“AninvitationfromTheAbbeyM’Lady”

Genteelly,hebendsatthewaist,allowingyoutotakethebeautifully

handwrittencardtoread.

AninvitationtodinewiththeCrawley’s.Howincrediblyexciting!The

dateonthecardis13

July1924.Naturallytheywilldineat8pm.Ofcourse,

youmustgo.Thereisnothingtodecide.Youareeagertoseeforyourselfifall
thestoriesyouhaveheardaboutitsopulenceandgrandeuraretrue.

Closingyourbook,youseatyourselfatyourbureautoprepareyour

reply.Ifyouhurry,Jamescancatchthepostbeforefour.

Butevenwithpenitinhandandpaperontheblotter,youfeelthefizzing

bubbleofexcitementtobeinvitedtothehouse.Famousnotonlyforits
sumptuousfoodbutalsothefamily’sabilitytobeinexactlytherightplaceatthe
righttime(andwearingexactlytherightthing!),DowntonAbbeyistheplace
everyonewantstobeseen.

Itseems,mydarling,youhavemadeit!

Closingyoureyes,theexcitementisalmosttoomuchtocontain.But

thenuncertaintyrearsitshead….

Whatshouldyouwear?Shouldyougetyourhairdoneorwillyour

maid’sfingerwaveexpertisebeglamorousenough?Goodness,whatonearth
willeveryonebetalkingabout?Whatiftheconversationcomesroundto
somethingyounothingabout?Thelastthingyouwanttodoisgetitwrong!

Inyourreverie,youremembersomeofthesnippetsyouhavegleaned

fromotherswhohavemadeittothehouse.Descriptionsofingredientsmanyof
uscanonlydreamof.Caviar,oysters,Champagne,richandlavishbanquets
abound.

Youseldomeatout,andsothisinvitationissuchatreat.Yourowncook

MrsLaceyhasalwaysprovidedfirst-ratefoodathome,butaninvitationtothe
Abbeyfeelslikeitisinadifferentleague.Powerfulbachelors,elegantbeauties,
andsumptuousfoodalllitthroughcrystalandcandlelight.

Relax,mybeauty,because“DiningatDownton”willrelate,notjustthe

mostbeautifulrecipes,butwherethefoodhascomefrom,thepoliticsoftime,
thefashions,fragrances,andflavoursoftheperiod.

Comewithmetoaworldmorelavish,morebeautiful,andmore

carefullycreatedthanwemighteverexperiencetoday.Togetherlet’spreparefor
DiningatDownton.

DiningatDownton–theEtiquette,theFood,and

WhereitCameFrom

Ifafternoonteawastheladies’socialgathering,dinner,inthe1920s,was

afarmorepowerfulthing.Forallegianceswerecreated,societalmanoeuvres
wereperformed,andcommercial(andromantic)allianceswerebuiltinthe
diningroomofDowntonAbbey,allperformedwithblithesmilesandwiththe
mostsubtlefinesse.

Carsonandhisfootmendiscretelyplacedbeautifullypreparedmealsin

frontofguests,eachdishdesignedtosecuretheestatewithevermorepromise
ofsuccess.MrsPatmoreandDaisycreatedculinarymasterpiecesthatwould
ensureguestswouldcontinuetovisitanddealwiththefamilyformanyyearsto
come.Thiswasnetworkingontheverygrandestofscales.

Theintricatearrangementofthemenuandthedinneritselfwasafeatof

greatco-ordination.MrsPatmore,creatingasuggestedmenufromtheseasonal
vegetablesinthegardenandconversationswiththebutcherandgamekeeper,
wouldkeepaverytightreinonthebudget.Hersuggestedmenuwouldthenbe
takentoherLadyshipwhowasafontofallknowledgeaboutlikes,dislikes,and
tastebudsofherguests!Itwouldbeatherbehestthatmoreexoticdishesmight
cometothetable.

Agoodcook’sobjectivewasalwaysbetooptimisetheamountofyield

shecouldgetfromanyoneingredient.Beefthen,wouldcometotheAbbey
completewiththeorgansandbonesofthebeastaswellastheregularcutsof
meat.Acarcasswouldalwaysbeboileduptoproduceevermorewonderful
stock.Entréesinparticular,wouldoftenfeaturewhatwewouldtermasoffal
thesedays,theinnards,theliver,kidneys,andheart.Thesecheapcutswere
turnedintoexquisitelylightdishes,oftenservedwithpotatoesandadeliciously
richsauce.

ThewildYorkshirecountrysideiswonderfulfarmingcountry,andmuch

ofthefoodeatenatthetablecamefromtheworkingestate.ManyofLady
Mary’spigs,ofcourse,wouldeventuallybecomebacon(blessthem)aswellas
otherfinecutsofmeatsuchastheYorkHamintherecipelater.Nothingwas

everleftoverfromagoodanimal.InChristmasatDownton,Ilistarecipefor
brawn,thefavouritedishforusingupthetrottersandpig’shead!

Inthetwenties,fishcourseswerestandardfareinthemenu.Thiswas

gameinplenty,astheriversintheareateamwithstock.Withfishingportslike
WhitbyandScarboroughlessthan50milesaway,seafishwereeasilyavailable
too.Herring,cod,haddock,prawn,mussels,crabs,oysters,andlobsterswereall
consideredlocalfoodshailingfromEastYorkshire.

InEngland,seasonalityhasasmuchtodowithhuntingrestrictionsasit

doeswithwhatisreadytoharvest(mainlytoprotecttheyoungeranimalsinthe
spring).ThecollaborationbetweenthegamekeeperandMrsPatmoreensured
thatasmuchofthemoneygoingoutofthekitchenwentbackintothecoffersof
theestate,withasmallerportiongoingtothebutcher.However,legal
restrictionsdictatedwhatcouldfinditswaytothetableandwhen.

InYorkshire,duckandgoosecanbehuntedbetweenSeptemberand

January.“TheGlorious12

”marksthecelebratedopeningoftheGrouseseason

inAugustandendson10

December.Harescanbeshotbetween1stAugust

and29thFebruary.Partridgeswereoftenserveduponplatesbetweenthe
beginningofSeptemberandtheendofJanuary.Pheasanthasashorteryear,
availablebetween1stOctoberand1stFebruary,makingitawintertimefavourite
delicacy.Quail,woodpigeon,andrabbitswereshotandservedallyear
round.

TheavailabilityofvenisonisalwaysgoodinEngland(although

expensive),butshootingislimitedtohuntingbucksbetweenAugustandApril,
anddoesbetweenNovemberandFebruary.Beingsuchaheavymeat,itwasnot
missedwhennotavailableforlighterspringmenus.

Estatesofthedayalsoprovideddairyfromthecattle,tobechurnedinto

milk,cream,andbutter.Wedonoteverseeadairymaidonscreenpotentially
becauseshewasalwaysoutinthedairy,orotherwisehuddledbythefire
keepingwarm!Dairiesoftheperiodwerepunishinglycold,tiledfromfloorto
ceiling.Churningthebutterandconstantlywashingawaythewheywascoldand
exhaustingwork.

Althoughsomecheesewouldbemadeinthedairy,notallofitwould

comefromthehouse,asitwastoolabour-intensivetocreateonalargescale.

Visitorstothehouse,then,wouldenjoynotonlynationaltreasuressuchas
CheddarandStiltonbutalsoYorkshire’sownlocalWensleydalecheesetoo(of
WallaceandGromitfame!)

Insomeways,wehavecomefullcircle.Asageneration,wefeelingthe

ebbsandflowsoftheseasonsmoreinoureatingagain,butitisadifferent
experience.Fortheirgeneration,therewasnochoice.Youatewhatwasin
season,becausethat’swhattherewas.Therewasnobigsecrettoit.Inthesame
way,itwasimportantfortheingredientstoworkashardastheycould.Products
likeEspagnoleSaucewerelarderstaplestoextendthecropsfurtherthroughthe
year.ThesameappliesfortheapricotjaminCrèmedeSurprise.Inthesedishes,
naturehadbeencapturedintheautumntoputtasteandgoodnessintothedishes
overthewinter.Theentréesanddessertswerealwayscreatedwithwhatwe
wouldconsidertobeleftovers,andwhattheysawasbounty.Themaincourse,
orthe“remove”asitwasmorecorrectlyreferredto,wasmadeofaprimecutor
themainpartofthebeastthatcouldbereliedupontofeedasmanypeoplein
onesittingaspossible.Leftoverswereusedforthenextday’smealorfordinner
fordownstairs..

Aswithanyhousehold,therewerethosewithmoreexotictastebudsthan

others,bothupstairsanddown.Thestaffinthehousegrewtohaveextremely
refinedpalates,eatingleftoversofsomeofthemostelaboratemeals.Inher
Book“TheDownstairsCookbook,”MargaretPowelldescribeshowshehadto
settleforadifferentwayofeatingwhenshemarriedandleftthegreathouse,
whereshehadbeenacook.

“WhenImarriedthemilkman,whoearnedawageof£35saweek,Ihad

tocomedownfromeatingbuttertomargarine,fromrumpsteaktoshinofbeef
orstewingsteak,andfromcreamtoevaporatedmilk.Iwasabletoacceptit
easilybecauseweweretaughtwewerenotwith‘them’orof‘them,’thatour
worldswereapartineveryway.Wedidn’tallyourselvestothekindofeating
andcomforttheyhad.Weweremadetofeeldifferent,andwefeltdifferent.”

(£35s0d–Threepoundsfiveshillingswasaboutequalto£170in

today’smoney.FormyAmericanfriendsthatequalsabout$265aweek.)

Andyet,itwasalwaysthedownstairsexpertiserunningtheshow.

Choosingtheperfectmatchingwineforeachdishwasanartinitself,andthat
felltoCarsonandhisdrinksknowledge.Predominately,thechoiceshailedfrom
thechalkyslopesofBurgundyandBordeauxinFrance,aswellasChampagne

fromReims.Horsd’oeuvreswereservedwithSherryfromSpainandcheeses
withPortfromPortugal.Withthedawnofamoreadventurousspiritofcocktail
parties,naturallyhisknowledgealsohadtogrowwithG&Tsandvodka
introducingtheirownCharlestonkicks.

ThemainstayoftheingredientswouldcomefromtheEstate,aswehave

seen,butjustoccasionally,itmightbenecessaryforalittlesomethingspecialto
comefromfurtherafield.Thespicesandcaviaryouseeinthisbookaregood
examplesofthese.Thesehadbeenintegratedintotheupperclasspalateoverthe
last20yearsorsoaspeoplehadtravelled(forworkorleisure)tofaroffmore
exoticclimesoftheBritishEmpire.Nowmoreeasilyaccessiblethantheyhad
previouslybeen,therewasnolongeraneedtokeepspicesunderlockandkey.
However,manykitchensnowhousedornatespicechestsofmanydrawerswhich
wereonlyforthecooktotouch.

ByfarthebiggestinfluenceontheEnglishkitchenthoughwasthe

French.Indeed,whilstmanyofthenameofthedishesareinEnglishnow,they
werereferredtobytheirFrenchterminology.Thispracticehadcomefromthe
kitchensoftheveryfirstcelebritychef,MarieAntoineCareme,whohadworked
forsomeofthefinestroyaltyinEurope,fromNapoleontoGeorgeIV.Atthe
mostelaboratedinners,amenuwouldbeplacedinfrontofeachguestdetailing
theentiretyofthemealinFrench.Afamilyoccasion,though,naturallywouldbe
alessformalaffair.Comparethissplendidfeastagainstthesimplicityofthe
short,snappy,andsassycocktailparty.Nowondertheyouthfularistocracy
wouldratherenjoythenewtrendywaytomeet.

InChristmasatDownton,weexaminedtheintricateetiquetteofhowthe

tablewaslaid,sowithoutfurtherado,let’schoosethecorrectwineglass.
Champagne,mydarling,isthefurthestoneawayfromyou.Theoneaboveyour
soupspooniswhitewine.Nexttothatisred,andyourchampagnefluteisthe
oneabovethat…gotit?Let’sraiseatoasttothebeautifuldishesoftheDownton
Abbeydinnerparty.

TheSocialAspectsofDining–PoliticsandBusiness,

Fashion,andChangingTimes

Asseries5opens(in1924),itisfascinatingtoseehowbothupstairsand

downstairs are aware of the societal changes afoot. Dinner, as we see it in this
book, will very soon be a thing of the past. By 1935 serving entrées was
considered very much passé. Whilst the recipes will remain with us, the
splendour,pomp,andcircumstanceisveryquicklyslippingthroughthefingers
of everyone at the great house. Interestingly, it is downstairs who seem most
reticentofthechange.

Probably the biggest threat to the Abbey’s status quo was to also be its

greatest opportunity. Tom Branson, the caddish chauffeur who had seduced
Lady Sybil, has brought socialist ideals into an extremely conservative
environment. He, along with Mary Crawley, is set to create a whole new
dynamic world for the future that the aristocracy must face. The gentle and
indulgedlifetheyhaveknownisclearlychanging,andbecauseofhisinfluences,
thehouseisreadytomovewithit.

Therulesofconversationatthedinnertablewithotherlandownersand

dignitaries of the period were changing to. Previously, one absolutely did not
speak of politics, religion, or money at the table. Chatter had been light and
entertaining.Now,however,lifecannotbesostraightforwardforthefamily,and
newnetworksmustbebuilt.

Wherethewarhadsorecentlybeentheonlysubjectoneveryone’slips,

now, in England, politics had taken its place. What was happening inside the
parliamentary walls of Westminster was to threaten not only the wealth of the
landownersbutthebluecollarmanualworkersaswell.Noonecouldbedeafto
therumblingsoutsideofDownton’sdoors.

This is the year Ramsey McDonald walked through the famous door of

Number 10 Downing Street. Great Britain steeled itself for radical change.
McDonald, England’s first ever Labour Prime Minister, had won the seat from
Stanley Baldwin, whose government had been ousted after a vote of no
confidence.Theperspectiveofthecountrywaschanging.Therewasalobbying

forrightsfortheworkingclasses.

Previously, McDonald had been Chairman of his party, but in 1918 he

hadbeendefeatedbecauseofdissentagainsthisoppositiontothewar.England,
in her fickle way, had a very short memory, and in ’24 elected him to the
premier’sposition.Hisstintinpowerwastobeshortlived,however.Justnine
monthslaterthough,troublewasathisdoor.

A communist newspaper had published a letter from a young activist

namedJRCampbell,incitingmutinyinthemilitaryranks.Itclaimedthatmost
people had not signed up to fight in the war because they wanted to battle but
ratherasadissentingvoteagainstthehighlevelsofpovertyandunemployment.
They suggested that, instead of taking up arms against other countries, they
shouldinsteadrallyagainstthecapitalistoppressorsoftheirowncountry.

On 6

August, the Attorney General announced that charges should be

brought against Campbell, but a week later the government bowed to back
bencher pressure, and the charges were dropped. England’s common man was
furious,andaGeneralElectionwascalled.Labour’smomentofglorywaswell
and truly over (that is until McDonald was re-elected in 1929). The year 1926
saw1.7millionworkerscomeoutinthe10-dayGeneralStrikeinsupportofcoal
minersandtheirworkingconditions.

The world was getting smaller, and people’s rights were changing.

EmelineParkhurstandherbraveladieswerefightingforequalityforwomen.In
fact, McDonald’s government appointed Margaret Bondfield as the first ever
femaleCabinetMinisterwhenshewasmadeParliamentarySecretary.

The“ordinaryperson”wasgainingmorerightsacrosstheboard.Oneof

thereasonsforthiswastheadventofgreatereducation.Theschool-leavingage
had recently been introduced. In 1917, it became mandatory for every child to
completeschoolingtotheageof14.(Thiswasraisedto15in‘47and16in’72.)

ThesesocialchangesrippledallacrosstheBritishEmpire,rightoverto

the Eastern world. Just as workers were being encouraged to take up arms in
London City, so comrades across the world united. In 1917, the Russian
Revolution ejected the aristocracy from their homeland, and murdered many
membersoftheRussianroyalfamily.Theextended,impoverishedroyalfamily
were refugees in England. It must have seemed a dark and foreboding place.
Nevertheless, Russian dignitaries could often be found at parties, attractive for

theirromanticandbohemiantales.

MostcertainlyalldinnerconversationinJulyofthisyearwouldbefull

oftheScottishathleteEricLiddell.AstaunchChristian,Liddellhadgonetothe
ParisOlympicsonlytofindhecouldnotcompeteinhisfavouredeventof100
metersbecausetheeventfellonaSunday.Insteadheraninthe400meters,in
whichhesubsequentlywongold,gainingaworldrecordof47.6seconds.Itwas
oneofninegold,thirteensilver,and12bronzemedalsforthecountry.

England stood proud in the Liddells victory, made even sweeter for

British born Jew Harold Abrahams still winning gold for his country in the
100m.

The political shift of course, also promises economic changes for the

house, and his Lordship is all too aware the rules his mother, the dowager
Duchess, and his late father had played by, will no longer cut it if Downton
Abbey is to stay in his family’s hands. It is a brave stance he takes, inviting
newlypowerfulpeopletohisdinnertableinabidtobuildrelationshipswith,not
onlyoldmoney,butwiththenouveauxrichesandforeigndignitariestoo.

This acceptance ran bitterly throughout classes of all levels for many

yearstocome.Evenasachild,myownmotherwouldvirtuallyspit“nouveaux
riches” with absolute disdain. To her, it regaled bad manners, ill breeding. It
seemed to completely explain away crass behaviour. Parvenu: they would be
referred to, using the terminology meaning “to arrive”. The class divide in
Englandwasbecomingevermoreblurred.

Reader, do you remember poor Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman and her

bewildermentoverwhatknifeshouldbeusedforwhat?Giveapassingthought
tothesenewlyarrivedpeople,whohadworkedveryhardtoequalhisLordship
in money and status, but who would not be naturally well versed in the silent
language of the napkin. It was no longer considered correct to tuck it into the
neck of one’s collar, but rather lay it on ones lap. Where should one put it if
called away to the telephone, for example? Aunt Violet would surely roll her
eyes in contempt if the napkin found its way to the table when its owner left,
becauseitshouldbeplacedontheseat.

Harder still were the muted signals that made it simple for Carson and

thefootmentoknowwhentoclearthetable.Ifoneplacedone’sknifeandfork
togetheratfouro’clockpositionontheplate,itsignalledyouwerefinishedand

the plate could be taken away. The knife, placed at four and the fork at eight,
apartontheplate,meantyouwereintendingtocarryonandweremerelytaking
a pause in your chewing. A wrongly placed knife and fork could leave people
sittingforseveralawkwardminutesbeforehisLordshipwouldhavetosignalto
Carson,thathewashappyfortheplatestobecleared.

Infact,itwasalwayshisLordshipwhowouldgivethesilentcuestothe

staff. No one could be seated until he and Lady Cora had taken their places. It
was only then that the footmen would open the chairs for everyone else.
Likewise,shouldeithertheEarlorCountesshavereasontoleavethetableearly,
it was correct that everyone else at the table should stand. At the end of the
evening,itwasanodfromLadyCoratotherestoftheladiestoleavethetable
and retire to the drawing room for coffee whilst the men took a turn playing
cards.

So,whilsttherearestarchedclothsandsparklingsilveronthetable,there

is an undercurrent starting to rumble. Life at the Abbey is ripe for change.
Luckily,thefamilyisreadytoembraceitanddrawsthesechangesintoitsmidst.
ThepragmaticLadyMaryandforthrightCountessarealwaysreadytowelcome
opportunitiestodrivethebusinessofDowntonforward.

The food, for instance, starts to take on a slightly Bolshevik twist with

Beef Stroganoff, caviar, and borscht. Dinner at Downton has always been
elegant and cosmopolitan, showcasing ingredients from across the Empire, but
theseexoticeasterndishesbecameparticularfavouritestodine.

TheoddMartinibecomesshaken(notstirred)asquickerandfarsassier

cocktailpartiesareriskedinthediningroom.

These of course, were particularly relished by American cousins, who

wereenduringtediousprohibitionbackhome!

When Rose gleefully declares “I love cocktail parties,” Cora risks an

uncharacteristically barbed remark saying, ‘Me too. You only have to stay 40
minutes, instead of sitting through seven courses stuck between a half-deaf
landownerandanevendeafermajorgeneral.’

These parties showcased the most glamorous aspect of the period, the

beautiful dresses. We see the very first herald of what would later become
knownasthecocktaildress.Longgownsareoutandkneelengthflapperfrocks
arewellandtrulyin.Sumptuouslybeaded,theseandrogynousdressesoozedsex

appeal.Itwassaidagoodflapperwouldneversitdownforfearofspoilingher
dress.Thejoyofthegarmentwasinitsmovement,designedforultimatebody
freedom, with many having wonderful fringing causing avalanches of swing.
Thesemagnificentfeatsofbeadworkmeantthatthesassiestgirlwouldbelikely
to turn down a dinner invitation in favour of cocktails where she could more
comfortablystand.

The very best cocktail parties might have a familiar scent of Chanel

Number 5 hanging in the air. Coco Chanel and Ernest Beaux had created a
fragranceentirelyfortheflappergeneration.Eventhebottlewasstrippeddown
to its essence and was completely transparent, unlike the opaque beauties that
hadgonebefore.

Forthemostcosmopolitanofflappers,therewasawhisperonthewind

of a rather risqué dance being flicked and kicked in South Carolina. The
Charleston made its appearance in 1923. In 1926 it would be seen at no lesser
placethantheFollieBergerswhereJosephineBakerwouldshocktheworldwith
her gay abandon. Strangely, the famous dance only really existed in the public
consciousnessforayear,butin1926anyflapperworthhersaltwouldhavethe
famousCharlestonswivelstepdowntothefinestofarts.Andjustasquickasit
came,itwasgone.

Twelvemonthsfromnow,atthe1925Expo,whatwoulddecadeslaterbe

calledArtDecoexplodedontothescene.Therewasanexplosionofcolourand
shapes that changed British design as we know it. Already though, since 1920,
these new geometric lines have been filtering through. In the late 19th century
ArtNouveauhadbeenromantic,fluid,andopulent.Suddenlyartandexpression
wasstarkandsymmetrical…andofcoursehairstylesimmediatelyfollowed.The
bobbed hair cut made so famous by Louise Brookes in 1925 saw an earlier
introduction on the coiffured head of one of the Downton stars described as
looking“HalfVoguemodel,halfstickofdynamite!”

The wireless, which has been so richly anticipated at Downton, comes

into its own in 1924 with the first ever shipping forecast. Yorkshire had an
abundant fishing community, and this was gratefully received. The forecast
wouldgoontosavemanythousandsoftheAbbey’sneighbours’lives.

In February, the wireless also began to broadcast hourly signals from

Greenwich, allowing pocket watches across the country to keep far more
accuratetimes.

Politics and fashion aside, the star of the show in Downton Abbey was

definitelythefoodbroughttothediningroomfromthekitchen.Eachdishwas
carefullycarriedfromthesteamykitchenbelow,upthestairs,andalongthelong
corridortothetable.Thepristinewhiteglovesandstarchedcollarsofthebutler
andfootmencompletedtheelegantprocession.

TheRecipesofDiningatDownton

Entrées

(orAppetizersasourAmericanfriendscallthem)

PotatoBliniswithRedCaviar

Ingredients:

10largepotatoes

4wholeeggs

1/3(80ml)cupmilk

1/4tspsalt

2Tbspflour

4Tbspcanolaoil

13Tbspnaturalredsalmoncaviar(about12tbs)

1cup(270ml)sourcream

1Tbspfinelychoppedchives

Directions:

1. Peelandcutthepotatoesintosmallpiecestoallowthemtocookevenly

andquickly.Placethemintoaheavypan,andcoverwithcoldwater.

Bringtotheboil,andthenreducetoasimmer.Coverandleavetocook

foraround30minutesoruntiltender.Drain.

2. MrsPatmorewouldhavepressedherpotatoesthroughafoodmill,buta

masherworksjustaseffectively.Mincethepotatoesfinely.

3. Addtwoeggs,andwhisktogetherfully.

4. Addslightlywarmedmilk,andseasonwithsalt.

5. Placeabakingsheettoheatintheoven.

6. Heataskilletoverahighflame,andaddadrizzleofoil.

7. Drizzleabouta1/4ofcupoftheblinimixture,andusingafishsliceand

movingthepan,encouragethemixintosmallcircles.

8. Cookoveramediumheatfor2minuteseachside.

9. Takeoutthewarmedbakingsheet,andturnofftheoven.

10. Placeeachcookedbliniontothesheettokeepwarmwhilstyoucookthe

remainingblinis.(Replacebackintheresidualheatoftheovenifyou

needto).

11. Eachblinishouldbeservedcoveredwithredcaviar,toppedwithaTbsp

souredcreamandasprinkleofchives.

12. Serveimmediatelywhilsttheblinisarestillwarm.

OlivierSalad

Thisisawonderfuldishforusingupleftoversfromthepreviousday.

PerhapsMrsPatmorewouldretainsomeofthechickenusedtomakeapie,ora
roast,maybe.Ahamhockalsoworksverywellwiththisdish.

Ingredients:

5potatoes

3carrots

4eggs

1poundboiledmeat

1/2lb(275g)greenpeas

2-3dillpickles(youcanusefreshcucumbers)

Salttotaste

1/2lb(275g)mayonnaise

Directions:

1. Peelandchopthepotatoesandcarrots,andboiluntiltender.Inthelast

twominutesofcookingaddthepeastocookthrough.Drainandset

aside.

2. Bringapanofwatertotheboil,andaddyoureggs.Cookfor7minutes,

andthenplungethemintocoldwatertoquicklycoolandpreventthem

fromovercooking.Thisensuresbeautiful,yellowcookedyolks.

3. Chopupthemeatandeggs,andmixinabowlwiththevegetables.

4. Onlystirinenoughmayonnaiseforthedish,asanyleftoverskeepbetter

withoutit.

5. Seasontotaste,andserveonalargeplatter,garnishedwiththepickles.

RussianBorscht

Ingredients:

3medium-sizedbeetroots(uncooked)

1onion

2sticksofcelery

3pt(1.7l)water

4eggyolks

1tsplemonjuice

1oz(25g)butter

Saltandpepper

Friedcroutonstoserve

Directions:

1. Washandchopthebeetroots,onion,andcelery.

2. Addtoalargesaucepan,andfrygentlyinthebutterforaround5

minutes.

3. Addthewater,bringtotheboil,andthenreducetoasimmer.Cookfor

around1hour.

4. Daisywouldhaverubbedthemixturethroughasieve,butfeelfreeto

blitzsmoothwithafoodprocessor.

5. Measurehowmuchsoupyouhavemadeinajug.

6. Returntothepan,andaddthelemonjuice.

7. Reducetheflametoaverylowheat

8. Beattheeggslightly,andforevery½apintofliquid,addoneyolk.Stir

ineachonecarefully,ensuringtheydonotscramble,butleavingthemto

thickenyourrubysoup

9. Servewiththefriedcroutons.

PalestineSoup

Itisimportantnottoconfusetheingredientsofthisdishwiththeglobe

artichoke.TheJerusalemartichokeisnot,infactanartichokeatall,butrathera
derivativeofthesunflowerfamily!Likewisedespitethenameofthevegetable,
neitherisitfromtheHolyLandeither.Insteaditsnameoriginatesfromthe
Italianwordforsunflower,girasole.

Itisstilleasytofindthisvegetable,butin1920sEngland,itwasalways

foundintheveggiepatchbecausethetuberswerealsoanexcellent,cheap
fodderforthepigs,cattle,andchickens.It’sprettyyellowflowerscheeredupthe
gardennoend,andbecauseithasquitedensefoliage,itwouldbeusedto
suppressweedstoo.

Itisthetuberthatweeat.Ithasanutty,freshcrunchinesstoit.

Ingredients:

1½lb(1kg)JerusalemArtichokes

1onion

1smallturnip

½headofcelery

2smallpotatoes

1cup(275ml)ofwhitestock

1/2cup(110ml)milk

¾cup(145ml)cream

Cayennepepperandsalt

Directions:

1. Peelandchopthevegetablesfinely,andplaceinaheavybottomedpan.

2. Coverwiththestock,andbringtotheboil.

3. Reducetoasimmer,andcookforaboutanhouroruntilthevegetables

haveallsoftened.

4. Eitherrubthroughasieve,orblitzwiththefoodprocessor.

5. Returntothepan,addmilkandcream,cookonalowheatuntil

thickenedslightly,butdonotallowittoreturntotheboil.

MelbaToast

Ingredient:

1thinsliceofwhitebreadperperson

Directions:

1. PreheattheoventoGasMark4170°C325°F

2. Takeslicesofwhitebread,andusingaserratedknife,verycarefullycut

throughthemhorizontallytomaketwoeventhinnerslices.

3. Placeintotheoven,andbakeforabout4minutes.Theywillturngolden

brownandwillcurlupattheedgesslightlytomakelovelylittleboatsto

sailonyoursoup.Melbatoastarealsodeliciousservedwithpaté.

ImitationFoieGras

Ingredients:

½lb(275g)calf’sliver

½lb(275g)mashedpotato

1smallonion

1oz(25g)fattybacon

2eggyolks

½tspmixedherbs

1bayleaf

½gill(75ml)ofstock

Saltandpepper

Directions:

1. Washanddryyourliver,andcutintosmallpieces

2. Chopthebacon(includingfatandrind),andgentlyfryoveramedium

heat.Addthelivertothepot,andcontinuetofryuntilitlightlybrowned

allover.

3. Addtheonion,bayleaf,herbs,andstirwell.Coverwithstock,andbring

totheboil.

4. Reducetheheattoasimmer,seasontotaste.

5. Leavethepottocookuntiltheliveristender.

6. MrsPatmorewouldpounditinamortar,butagain,afoodprocessor

workswell.

7. Whenpulped,addthemashedpotatoandblitzagain,orrubthrougha

sieve.

8. ServewithMelbatoast.

BakedScallops

Thisdishallowsforthreescallopsperperson.Askyourfishmongerto

sellyouthemwiththeirshells,butaskhimtoremoveandbeardthemforyou.
Usehomemadebreadcrumbsratherthanthebrightorangeshop-boughtones.

Ingredients:

1dozenscallops

2oz(50g)butter

Breadcrumbs

Lemonjuice

Parsley

Directions:

1. Preheatyourovento350-375°F180°cGas4-5

2. Greaseanovenproofdish,andthencoatthebottomofitwith

breadcrumbstoabouta¼inchthick.

3. Nowplacethescallopsontop,seasonovertheirsurface,andaddagood

squeezeoflemonjuice

4. Nowcoatwithanotherlayerofbreadcrumbs,butnotasthickthistime.

5. Chopthebutterfinely,anddotitalloverthetopofthedish.

6. Bakeforbetween20–25minutes.

7. Returntotheirshells,andgarnishwithfreshchoppedparsley

TroutandAlmonds

ThegamekeeperkeptthediningtableatDowntonAbbeywellstocked

fromtheriverrunningthroughtheestate.Whenyouspeaktoyourfishmonger
aboutyourtrout,askhimtoremovethefinsbutleavetheheadandtailintact.

Ingredients:

2Trout

1oz(25g)butter

2oz(50g)groundalmonds

1wineglassofwhitewine

Parsley

Saltandpepper

Directions:

1. PreheattheoventoGas4-5350-375°F180°C

2. Washanddryyourfish,andplaceitintoawell-buttered,ovenproof

dish.

3. Seasonthefishwell.

4. Meltyourbutter,andaddthegroundalmondstomakeapaste.

5. Smearthepastealloverthefish.

6. Fillthedishwiththewine.

7. Coverwithalid(usefoilifyoudon’thavealid,butensurethatitis

tuckedunderthesideswelltocapturethecookingpowersofthesteam)

8. Bakeintheovenforabout30minutes,andthenservegarnishedwith

parsley.

SweetbreadsonRamequins

Ingredients:

3Calves’sweetbreads

3Baconrashers

2oz(50g)mushrooms

Breadcrumbs

1½Tbspmeltedbutter

1½Tbspchoppedsweetherbs

Paprikapepper

Directions:

Preparingsweetbreads

2. Soakincoldwaterforanhour.

3. BlancheinasmallpanwithjustenoughwatertocoverandaTbsp

lemonjuice

4. Cookgentlyfor5minutes,thenplungeintoclean,coldwater.

5. Thisloosensallthemembranesandfats,allowingyoutocleanthem,

leavingonlythefleshyinsides.

6. Preheatovento350-375°F180°CGas4-5

7. Cuteachsweetbreadinto4pieces,andwrapathinstripofbaconround

eachone.

8. Prepareamixofbreadcrumbs,seasoning,andherbs,andlineeachofthe

ramequinswithalayer,thendrizzleoversomeofthemeltedbutter.

9. Placethesweetbreadintothemix,andcoverwithmorebreadcrumbs

10. Placetheramequinsontoabakingtray,andintotheoventobakefor

about12minutesoruntilgoldenbrown.

Remove

(Thisistheformalnameforthemaincourse.)

OxtailCasserole

Iamgladtosaythatoxtailsnowcomereadyjointed,whichmeansyou

nolongerhavetogoatthemwithacleaver!Theyarethebeefiestbeefflavour
andarewithoutcompareoncoldwinterdays.

Ingredients:

1oxtail

1/2lb(275g)bacon

2onions

3carrots

2turnips

1bayleaf

Asmallsprigofbasil

Directions:

1. Tossyouroxtailinflour,andfryoffinaskillet.Don’tbeafraidtoletthe

flourturnreallygoldenbrownbecausethesecaramelisedbitsreallyadd

depthtothetasteofthesauce.

2. Placethesingedoxtailintothebaseofacasseroledish.Roughlychop

thevegetables,andarrangeontopofthemeat.Addtheherbs.

3. Deglazethepanwithatinysplashofredwine,andthenaddsomewater

torinse.Pourtheliquidintothecasserolepottocoverthemeatand

vegetables.

4. Laythebaconover.

5. Coverthetopofthecasserolewithfoil,thenplaceonthelid.Thiswill

preventtoomuchmoisturefromescaping.

6. Putintoaslowoven.Gasmark2150C.300Fforfourtofivehours.

Checkregularlytoensuretheliquiddoesnotdryout.

7. Servewithboiledharicotbeans.

Quailontoasts

Youmightwanttosupplementquailforpartridgeforthisdish.Thisdish

isbestmadeinlatesummerwhentheleavesonthegrapevinesarestillfreshand
tender.

Ifyoustruggletofindvineleaves,acabbageleafwilldothesamejob.

Ingredients:

1quailperperson

1vineleafperperson

1rasherofbaconperbird.

1slicebreadperperson

1oz(25g)ofbutter.

Directions:

1. Trussthequail,laythevineleafoverthebreast,placearasherofbacon

over,andsecurewithstring.

2. Toastyourbreadandbutteritwellononeside.

3. Placetheslicesoftoastinaroastingtray,thenputonebirdontopof

each.

4. Cookinahotoven180C,350FGasMark4for15minutes.

5. Putgravyontoyourserver.

6. Thenplacethequailswiththetoastunderthen,ontothegravy,then

surroundwithwatercress.

ChickenValencia

Ingredients:

1wineglassofoil

1chicken,jointedandskinon.

6oz(150g)rice

2wholeclovesofgarlic

1onion,thinlysliced

3redchillies,thinlychoppedandseedsremoved

6tomatoes,quartered

1pt(568ml)chickenstock

Pinchofsaffron

Directions:

1. Pourtheoilintoaflame-proofcasserolewiththegarlic.Cookgently,

beingcarefulnottoburnthegarlic(whichwillmakethedishbitter).Stir

continuallyuntilthegarlicisfried.

2. Nowaddthechickenjointstothepot.Letthemfrywell,butstiroftenso

theydonotburnorstick.

3. Thenaddtheslicedonionandchillies,stirringcontinually.

4. Addthetomatoes,asprinkleofparley,thenaddintherice.Stirwellto

ensureeverygrainiscoveredwiththejuices.

5. Coverthewholethingwithhotstock(addmore,orwaterifneeded)

6. Thepanmustbeleftopen,donotcover.(Openthewindow.Youwill

havequitealotofsteam.)

7. Bringtotheboil,thenleavetheburnern,buttakethepanoffit,and

leaveitjusttothesidesoitkeepswarmbutwillnotburn.Thericewill

cookintheresidualwarmth.

8. Sprinkleinthesaffron,andstironelasttime.

9. Taketothetable,andservewithchutneysandwichesmadewithbrown

breadandbutter.

FilletduBoeufalaCarlsbad

ThisisrichAmericandishboughtbackfromCarlsbadinCalifornia,no

doubtbythedeliciousMarthaLevinson.Neveronetokowtowtoconvention,
Marthawouldadorethisubersweetandsophisticateddishwithasassykickthat
getsyouwhenyouleastexpectit.

Ingredients:

1lb(454g)Sirloinofbeef(Askthebutchertopreparetheundercutfor

you.)

Horseradishsauce

(Seetherecipesinthesaucesection.)

RedCurrantJelly

Directions:

1. Cutthebeefintoslicesofabout¼inchthick

2. Seasonandfrytheminbutter

3. Serveontoasilverdish,andpourhorseradishsauceoverthem.

4. Decoratearoundthesideoftheplatterwithredcurrantjelly.

5. Inaseparatedish,servea

compôteofcherries

asanaccompaniment.

LemonStuffedShoulderofMutton

Inthe1920s,muttonwasfarmorepopularthanlamb.Takenfromthe

adultsheep,itwasmoreflavoursomeandtenderthanlamb,aswellasbeinga
moreaffordableoption.Ithadtheadvantageofneedingtobecookedvery
slowlytostopitbecomingtough,meaningMrsPatmorecouldgetthispartof
thedinneroutofthewayveryearly,leaveittocook,andgetonwiththemore
intricateentrées.

Strangely,inthelateseventies,itseemedtodropoutoffavourin

England,butrecentlyitisexperiencingarenaissance,Iamgladtosay.Replace
withlambifneedbe,butifyoucanfindmutton,dotryit.Itisameatinaclass
ofitsown,andofcourseafractionoftheprice.

Ingredients:

1Shoulderofmutton

¼lb(125g)breadcrumbs

1oz(25g)choppedsuet

2oz(50g)ofbacon,finelychopped

1egg

1tspchoppedparsley

½tspchoppedlemonpeel.

Directions:

1. PreheattheoventoGasMark4-5375°F180°Cdegrees.

2. Bonetheshoulder.

3. Makeastuffingwiththebreadcrumbs,suet,bacon,parsley,andlemon

peel.Bringtogetherwiththeegg.

4. Followthelinewherethebonehadbeen,coveringinstuffing.

5. Rollthemuttonup,andtieupverytightlywithstring.

6. Reducetheovenheatto150°C300FGasMark2androastfor1½hours,

bastingregularly.

BeefStroganoff

Ingredients:

1lb(500g)filletsteak

1tsppaprika

Zestof1lemon,grated

1redonion,chopped

1garlicclove,chopped

Oliveoil

2handfulsofwildmushrooms,cleanedandtorn

Knobofbutter

Smallglassofbrandy

2oz(50ml)sourcream

2–3flat-leafparsleysprigs,leavespickedandchopped

Breadandgherkins,toserve

Directions:

Usingameattenderiser,placethesteakbetweentwosheetsofcling

film,andflattentoabout½cm,1/8

inchthickness.Thencutthe

steakintofingerstripsofabout1cmacross.

Makeamarinadeofpaprika,thezestofthelemon,andsaltand

pepper,andsmearalloverthemeat.

Fryyouronionandgarlicwithasmallamountofoil,inaheavy

skilletoveramediumtolowheat.Bemindfulofnotburningthe

garlicasitwillmakethedishtastebitter.Whentheyaresoftenedand

translucent,addthemushrooms.Turnuptheheatandsautéquickly

untilgoldenbrown.

Settheonionsandmushroomsasideinadishforamomentwhileyou

cookyourmeat.

Replenishalittlemoreoil,andaddthemeat.Havetheheathighso

theoutsideofthesteakbrownsandcaramelises,buttheinside

remainspink.Stirtheonionsandmushrooms,thenaddthebrandy.

Cookfortwominutes,allowingtheliquidtoreducetoalmost

nothing.

Removefromtheheat,andstirinthecreamandchoppedparsley.

Eitherservewithboiledriceorwithcrustybreadandsideorderof

gherkins.

ChickenStuffedwithOysters

Ingredients:

1largechicken

1vealsweetbread

1½dozenoysters

½dozenmushrooms

2fatbaconrashers

1eggyolk

1oz(25g)butter

½oz(10g)flour

2oz(50g)goosefat/lard

½tspparsley

Grated½lemonrind

¼Nutmeg,grated

½pt(280g)

mushroomsauce

Saltandpepper

Preparingsweetbreads

Directions:

1. Soakincoldwaterforanhour.

2. Blancheinasmallpanwithjustenoughwatertocover,andaddTbsp

lemonjuice

3. Cookgentlyfor5minutes,thenplungeintocleancoldwater.

4. Thisloosensallthemembranesandfats,allowingyoutocleanthem,

leavingonlythefleshyinsides.

5. Preparethesweetbread,andthenchopitfinely.

6. Roughlychophalftheoysters

7. Chopthemushrooms,andmixthroughwiththeparsley,lemonrind,

nutmegandseasoning.

8. Bindthemixtogetherwiththebeateneggyolk,andthenusethemixto

stuffthebreastofthechicken.

9. Nowfillthecavityofthebirdwiththeremainingoysters.

10. Coverthebreastwiththefattybacontokeepitmoist.

11. Placeintoroastingtin,withthe2oz(50g)offat.

12. Roastfor1-1¼hours,bastingfrequently.

13. About20minutesbeforetheendofcooking,removethebacon,and

sprinklethebirdwithflour.Pouroverwithmeltedbuttertoreallybrown

thebreastwell.

14. Returnthebirdtotheovenfortheremaining20minutes.

15. Removethetrussingstring,andplaceonalargecharger.

16. Servewithagravyboatfullofmushroomsauce.

HamBraisedwithWine

Thisisaspectaculardishthatwillservemanypeopleinonesittingwith

theminimumamountoffuss.Itisalongcookbuteasy,andthemeatmeltsin
yourpartymouthlikenothingyouhaveevertasted!Thiswasaperfectdishfor
anelaborateeventlikeNewYear’sEvewhenMrsPatmorewouldwanttoenjoy
herowncelebrations,butneverthelessputonabreathtakinglyimpressivespread.

AYorkHamwasenviedacrosstheBritishEmpire.Themeat,leftonthe

bone,hadbeendrycuredfor10weeksandthenbreaded.Itwasdrierandsaltier
thananymadeanywhereelseinthekingdom.Nowofcourse,thereisnoneedto
preservemeatslikethis,andsadly,thisisonlyreallyseenforsaleasaspeciality
item.WhenImakethisdish,Iusealarge,regularham,orgammon,aswecall
it,whichhasthesamesaltyedge.

Ingredients:

1YorkHamsoaked(AmericanscansubstitutewithaSmithfield,or

othertypeofcountryham)

½pt(280ml)

EspagnoleSauce

1pt(568ml)chickenstock

½pt(280ml)sherryorMasalawine

½pt(280ml)Champagne

Directions:

1. Soakthehamfor24-48hoursincoldwater.Changethewateratleast

twice.

2. Putthehamintoalargepotwithjustenoughstocktocover.

3. Bringthewatertotheboil.Somewhitefrothwillstarttocometothe

surface.

4. Skimitoff,andreducethepantoasimmer.

5. Cookfor3-4hours,skimmingthesurfaceregularly.

6. Removethehamfromitsjuices,andtakeoffitsskin.

7. Placeintoacleanpan,withthejuicesandthewines.

8. Cookverygentlyfor40minutes.

9. Removefromthepan,andsetasidecoveredwithfoiltokeepwarm.

10. Nowskimthestockverythoroughly,andreducetohalfthequantity.

11. Addtheespagnolesaucegently,stir,andbringitbacktotheboil.

12. Placethehamonalargeservingchargersurroundedwithalittleofthe

sauceandrestinagravyboatattheside.

VegetablesDishes

AsparagusMoulds

Ingredients:

Smallbundleoffreshasparagus

2oz(50g)butter

1pt(568ml)

Bechamelsauce

2eggyolks

1tbsVegetablestock

Directions:

1. Firstbeginbymakingyourbéchamelsauce.

2. Choptheasparagusintosmallpieces,anddropthemintosaltedboiling

water.

3. Boilfor5minutes.

4. Meltthebutterandseasonwithsaltandpaper.Stirthebutterintothe

béchamel,andsimmeritgentlyfor5minutesallowingittothicken.

5. Removefromtheheat,andleavetocoolveryslightly.

6. Addatablespoonofstock,andbeatintheeggyolksoneatatime,being

carefulthemixiscoolenoughnottocauseyoureggstoscramble.

7. Stirintheasparagus.

8. Putintobuttermouldsorramekins,thenpourinthemix.

9. Placeintoaroastingtin,andthenfillthetinwithhotwatertoabout

halfwayupthemould.Standinthetinuntilthewatergoescold.

10. Ensurethesaucehassetsolidbeforeturningoutontoplaces.

Polishredcabbage

Ingredients:

1redcabbage

1sourapple

1onion

½oz(10g)butter

1tbsbrownsugar

1tspgroundcinnamon

1tsppowderedcloves

Directions:

1. Slicethecabbageintosmallpieces

2. Peelandslicetheappleandonioninsmallchunkstoo.

3. Placeintoasaucepanwithjustenoughwatertopreventitburning,as

wellasthebutter.

4. Simmergently,andwhencooked,seasonwiththesugar,spices,and

vinegar(whichwillgiveitthatrubyredfinish).

Sauces

RedcurrantJelly

Thisrecipeistakenfrom“

ChristmasatDownton

,”givingyouoneof

severalotherwaystouseyourjarinotherdishes!

Makes1litreor2lbjellyThesimplestofrecipesmadefromthefruit

fromtheestate.Manyfruitydelightswouldhavebeencannedtopreservethe
crops,meaningtheywerereadytoimprovedishesatamoment’snotice.Thisis
usedinthe

FilletduBoeufalaCarlsbad,

butit’sjustasdeliciousservedwith

roastlamborduckormeltedintograviestomakerichsauces.

Thereasonthisissoeasyisthatthereisnomessingaboutwithstalks.

Placeeverythingintothepantostew,andthensimplystrainthroughamuslin
bagtocreateaclearrubyjelly.

Ingredients:

2lb(900g)Redcurrants

2lb(900g)Sugar

Directions:

1. Placetheberriesintoaheavy-bottomedpan.

2. Squashthemaswellasyoucantoreleasethejuices.

3. Slowlybringtotheboil,thenaddthesugar.

4. Boilfastfor8minutes.

5. Meanwhile,washyourjarsandlids.Boilthelidsfor5minutes,and

placethejarsintoahotoventodryandsterilise.(Mindhowyouremove

them!)

6. Makeamuslinbagbyliningasievewithfabricandplacingoverajug.

7. Pourtheredcurrantconcoctionthrough,andleaveittodrip.Themore

youforceitthrough,thecloudierthejelly,butofcourseitmakesmore

too,sodecidewhichsuitsyoubest.

8. Pourintopots,andcoverwithwaxdiscswhencooled.Putthelidson,

andlabelwithsatisfaction.Storeinacool,dryplaceuntilneeded.

EspagnoleSauce

Thislookslikeacomplicatedcook,butoncloserexaminationyouwill

seeitisa“Sumthin’outtaNuthin”dish.Itusesleftoverstomakeagreatpantry
cupboardstaplethattakesfairlysimpledishesintosomethingtruly
extraordinary.

Ingredients:

4oz(125g)Veal

2oz(50g)Ham

1onion

1carrot

¼headofcelery

2oz(50g)butter

2oz(50g)flour

3pt(1.7l)stock

Remainsofleftoverchicken

1gill(142ml)tomatopurée

Alargebunchofherbs

½dozenpeppercorns,Crushed

1bladeofmace,crushed

2oz(50g)mushrooms,chopped

½gill(75ml)claret

½wineglasssherry

Saltandpepper

Directions:

1. Peelandcutupallofthevegetables.

2. Chopthehamandveal.

3. Meltalittlebutterinaskillet,andaddallthevegetables(excluding

mushrooms)gentlyuntiltheyaresoftandveryslightlybrowned.

4. Addallofthemeats,theherbs,thepeppercorns,andspices.

5. Stiroveralowflameuntilbrownedandanyfatshavebeenreleased.

6. Drainoffthefats,stirtroughthetomatopurée,themushroomsandwine,

thenaddthestock.

7. Now,takeanotherpanandmelttogetherthebutterandtheflour,mixing

toaroux.

8. Graduallyaddthestocktotheroux,mixinginateachstep.

9. Asthesaucecomestogether,bringittotheboil,andsimmerforanhour.

10. Skimthesurfaceregularly,thenpassthroughasievelinedwithmuslin.

11. Decantintosterilebottles.Thiswillkeepseveralweeksinthe

refrigerator.

MushroomSauce

Ingredients:

11bbuttonmushrooms

½pt(280ml)beefstock

1oz(25g)butter

1oz(25g)flour

1tspcelerysalt

1tsplemonjuice

Saltandpepper

Directions:

1. Peelandchopthemushrooms,andcookinthestockwithcelerysaltand

seasoninguntiltender.

2. Inanotherpan,meltthebutter,andaddtomakearoux.

3. Removefromtheheat

4. Graduallyaddthemushroommixtotheroux,stirringwelltoabsorball

oftheliquorbeforeaddingthenextbit.

5. Returntotheheat,addthelemonjuice,andbringtotheboil.Simmerfor

5minutesbeforeserving.

HorseradishSauce

Ingredients:

Oneyoungfreshhorseradishroot

2tspCastorsugar

1tbsVinegar

Salt

1pt(568ml)Cream

Directions:

1. Gratetherootveryfinely.

2. Stirinthesugarandvinegar

3. Addsalttotaste

4. Slackenwiththecream,addinggraduallytoensurejusttherighttexture.

5. Horseradishshouldbeservedcoldwithcoldmeatsandwarmedwith

hot.

6. Towarmthesauce,putinajug,andplacethejuginwarmedwater.

7. (Ifyouwanttouseupaglutofhorseradishandpreserveittokeep,

replacethecreamwithvegetableoilandgratedorangepeelandkeepin

asterilisedjar).

CherryCompôte

Ingredients:

1lb(454g)Cherries(pitted)

½cup(200g)Sugar

1quart(1.1l)coldwater

1tbsArrowroot

Juiceof½lemon

3floz(100ml)Cherrybrandy

Directions:

1. Placethestonedcherriesintoaheavysaucepan,andcoverwithwater,

thenbringthemtoarollingboil.

2. Addthesugar,andcontinuetoboiluntilthefruithassoftened.

3. Passthemixturethroughasieve,andretainthepulp.

4. Mixthearrowroottoapastewithalittlecoldwater.

5. Putthefruitpulpbackontotheheat,andquicklyaddinthearrowroot,

stirringallofthetime.Themixturewillgomilky,andasitcooks

through,willbecomejewelclear.

6. Addinthelemonjuice,andtaste.Ifneeded,addalittlemoresugarto

sweeten.

7. Takeofftheheat,andstirinthebrandy.

BechamelSauce

Ingredients:

¾pint(180ml)ofvegetablestock(orchickenintherecipebetter

warrantsit)

½pt(280ml)milk

2oz(50g)butter

1oz(25g)flour

6peppercorns

1carrot

1onion

Directions:

1. Parsleyandabayleaf,saltandpepper.

2. Boilthestockupwiththecarrot,theonion(cutintotwohalvesto

releasetheflavour),andthepeppercorns.Reducethestocktoabouthalf,

thenstrain.

3. Meltthebutterinapan,andworktheflourintoasmoothpaste.

4. Heatthemilk,andgraduallyaddthestockandthemilkinsmall

amounts,eachtimeabsorbingalloftheliquidintothepaste.

5. Seasonwithsaltandpaper.

Desserts

SummerPudding

ThisdishhasbeenafavouriteinEnglishhomesforhundredsofyears.

It’sinterestingbecauseitissumptuousbuttrulyisa“freefood”pudding.
Nowadays,ourbreadiffullofflourimproversandadditiveswhichmeanitwill
lastlonger,butMrsPatmorewouldalwaysbeonthelookoutforwaystoget
bettervalueformoneyfromherloaves.Whenthehedgerowswereheavingwith
fruit,thiswastheperfecttreattouseupyesterday’sbread.

Ingredients:

½lb(275g)blackcurrants,raspberriesredcurrantsorstrawberries

Slicesofbreadandbutter

Sugar

½pt(280ml)cream

Directions:

1. Youcanuseanyfruityoulikereally,andsometimesIaddsomesmall

chunksofappleintomine.Stewthefruitgently,takinginto

considerationthatapplesandpearswilltakelongerthanberries.Add

sugartotasteastheyarebeginningtosoften,butdonotmakethemix

toosweet.

2. MrsPatmoregreasedherbowlwelltogetthepuddingtoslipouteasily,

butnowliningthebowlwithclingfilmwillgiveyouasimilarbut

healthiereffect!Ifinditeasiesttousetwolongpiecescrisscrossedover

thebowl,tooverlap.Leaveyourselfabout15cmoneachendtohelp

youcompressthepuddingattheend.

3. Takethinslicesofbreadandbutter,andcutoffthecrustssoyouhave

rectangularshapes,butanglethenslightlysotheyseemtolean.Thiswill

helpyougetabetterfitinthebowl.Aimforfourslices,cutintotwo

rectangleseach,and2slicescutinto4triangleseach.

4. Findaheavypuddingbasin.Takingtherectangularbreadpieces,oneat

atime,dipthemgentlyinthefruitjuices,andthenusethemtolinethe

insidewiththebreadandbutter(thebutterfacingintothepudding).

Taketimeoveritfillinganycracksandfittingthebreadcloselyand

tightlytogether.

5. Usingaslottedspoon,fillthebreadbasinhalfwayupwithfruit,then

makealidwithsomeofthetrianglesofbread,soitactsabitlike

scaffolding,readyforyoutoaddmorefruitontop.

6. Filltothetopwiththerestofthefruit,thencoverwithafinalwhole

pieceofbreadandbutter,firmlysealingallthefruitandjuicesin.

7. Theremainingjuicesshouldbekeptforservinglater.

8. Usekitchenscissorstotrimawayexcessbitsofbreadandneatenthe

edges.

9. Placeaplateoverthetopsoitweightsthebreadandsquashesandforms

theputting.

10. Putitintothefridgetochillovernight.

11. Whenyoucometoserve,turnoutontoaplaceandcoverwithlashings

ofcream(whetheritiswhippedornotisuptoyou)anddrizzlethejuice

ontheservingplatearoundit.Atrue,summerrubytreasure.

CrèmeonSurprise

Thisisanunusualdishthatseemstohavebeenlostintheannalsoftime.

Itisscrumptiousandlooksamazingonthetable,andneverfailstoimpress.Part
ofthereasonwemaynotseeitveryoftennowisthatwehavetodoourown
washingup…andpreparingthisdishmakesloads,Iwillwarnyou!Makesure
youhaveyourveryownDaisytodotheclearingup!

Ingredients:

2eggs

4oz(125g)sugar

2oz(50g)self-risingflour

1oz(25g)cornflour

1gill(142ml)cream

½oz(10g)butter

6oz(170g)apricotjam

2oz(50g)walnuts

3oz(75g)glacécherries

1wineglassofsherry

Vanillaextract

Lemonjuice1

1/3cup(100ml)ofwater.

Directions:

1. PreheattheoventooGasMark5/375F/180C

2. Greaseanovenproofdish,andsprinklewithflour.

3. Takethreemixingbowls.

4. Separateyoureggs,yolksintoonebowlandwhitesintoanother.

5. Inthefirstbowl,creamtogethertheyolksoftheeggswith2oz(50g)of

thesugar,thenstirinafewdropsofvanillaextract.

6. Inthesecondbowl,sievetogethertheflourandthecornflour.

7. Takebowlnumberthree,andwhiskyoureggwhitestostiffpeaks.

Whenyouconfidentlyholdthebowlupsidedownoveryourheadand

knowtheywillstayfirmlythere,youknowyouhavereachedtheright

consistency!

8. Nowgraduallyandalternatelyaddtheflourmixandtheeggwhitesinto

youryolkmix.Useametalspoontogentlyfolditinsoyoudon’tknock

outanyoftheair.

9. Spoonthemixintoyourovenproofdish,andbakefor30minutes.

10. Whenitiscooked,removefromtheoven,andplaceontoacoolingrack

for15minutes.

11. Nowcutoffthetopofthecake,andscoopoutthemiddle.

12. Fillthecentreofthemixofwhippedcream,atspofsugar,thewalnuts,

andthecherries.Replacethelid.Placeintoaglassdish,orserveona

cakestand.

13. Putthejamintoapanwiththewater,andboiluptomakeaglaze.

14. Leavetheglazetocool,thenaddthesherryandlemonjuice.

15. Whentheglazeiscompletelycold,paintorbrushoverthepudding,and

sprinklewithpistachionutsandsomeofthecherries.

QueenMabPudding

Justasjellieswerepopularonthemostelegantoftables,sowereother

dessertsmouldedintoelaborateshapes.Thisonewasparticularlypopularfor
parties.

ThoseofyouwhorememberyourShakespearewillbeabletoconjureto

mindthefaeryqueenofMercutio’sspeechinRomeoandJuliet.Itwassaidthat
shewasthemidwifeofdreams,andthisdishiseverybitgoodenoughtoevoke
thatkindofreverie.Theysaythisisthedesertofwitchery!ItwasafirmEnglish
favouriteattheturnofthetwentiethcentury.

Thequestionis,Iwonder,wouldherladyshipcourtthehelpofMrs

Patmoreinweavingsuchspellsatthetable,orwouldshesimplyaskthatitbe
served!Eitherway,thiscouldbetheperfectwaytosealanydealsrequiredfrom
thetable,romantic,political,orotherwise.

Ingredients:

6EggYolks,lightlybeaten

1pt(454ml)Milk

4oz(125g)sugar

1oz(25g)gelatine

1gill(142ml)water

2oz(50g)glacécherries

2oz(50g)crystalisedfruits(Crystalisedgingerorangelicaforinstance)

1lemon

Vanillaextract

Directions:

1. Gratetherindofthelemon,andplaceintoapanwiththemilk.Heat

gently,andbringittotheboil.

2. Coolitfor5minutes,thenstrainthemilkthroughasieveontotheegg

yolks

3. Transferbackintothepan,andheatoveraverylowflame,stirring

constantlytothickentoacustard.Donotletitboil.

4. Dissolvethegelatineintowater,thenaddtothecustard.

5. Whenthecustardhascooled,addinthecrystalisedfruitandchopped

cherries.

6. Placeintotherefrigeratorforanhourtocompletelycool,thenstirinthe

whippedcream.

7. Runyourmouldunderthecoldtapsoitiscompletelywet,thentransfer

themixtureintoit.Thisdampnesswillensurethepuddingcomesout

easily.

8. Leaveintherefrigeratorovernighttoset.

StrawberrySoufflé

Themarkofagreatcookhasalwaysbeen,andalwayswillbe,canshe

gethersoufflétorise!ThiswasagreatdishforAlfredtolearntoperfectready
toexcelwhenhelefttoworkattheRitz.

Thisisasummer-onlyrecipe,whenEnglishstrawberriesareattheirvery

finest.Eithercookinonelargesoufflédishorina4or5ovenprooframekins.

Ingredients:

3/4lb(325g)strawberries

2oz(50g)sugar

1oz(25g)flour

2eggs

1oz(25g)butter

1gill(142ml)ofmilk

Redfoodcolouring

Directions:

1. PreheatovenGas6-7400°F-425°F200°C

2. Squeezehalfofthestrawberriesthroughasievetomakeapulp,thenadd

1oz(25g)sugartosweetenthefruit.

3. Meltthebutterinapan,graduallyaddtheflour,andbringittogetherto

makearoux.

4. Littlebylittle,addthemilk,alwaystakingtimetostiritenoughsothe

milkdisappearsintotherouxbeforeaddingthenextbitofliquid.

5. Bringthesaucetogether,andletitboilgentlyandthicken,thenaddthe

other1oz(25g)ofsugarandthestrawberrypulp.

6. Separateyoureggs.Beattheyolkstogetherwell,andaddacoupleof

dropsoffoodcolouring.

7. Whisktheeggwhitestostiffpeaks(usethesametricktotestasinthe

crèmedisurpriserecipe).

8. Foldthestiffwhitesintotheyolksgraduallywithametalspoon,and

alsoaddtherestofthethinlyslicedstrawberries

9. Butterasoufflédishwell,thenaddthemix

10. Placeintoapreheatedovenfor25-30minutes.

11. Donotbetemptedtoopentheovendoorbefore25minutesoryour

souffléwillflop.

12. Servetothetableinitsdish.

Cocktails

HedgerowHangover!

Thisrecipeperfectlysumsupthefeelingoftheera.Itcapturesthe

seasonalityoftheglutinthehedgerows(Englandiscoveredinthemilking
creamflowersoftheElderonMidsummer’sday)withtheloveoftheRussian
immigrationinfluences.

Serveinaclassicchampagnesaucer(thetriangular-shapedones,rather

thanflutes).

Ingredients:

1floz(25ml)vodka

½floz(15ml)elderflowercordial

Champagne

Directions:

1. Addthevodkaandtheelderflowercordialtoacocktailshakerwithlots

ofice.

2. Shakewell.

3. Takeyourglass,anddiptherimineggwhitethenintosugartogivea

frosting.

4. Addtheelderflowermix,andtopupwithchampers!

5. Chinchin!

GinRickey

Ingredients:

1lime(cutintowedges)

2floz(50g)Gin

ClubSodatotaste

Directions:

1. Add3or4fouricecubestoatallglass

2. Squeezehalfthejuiceofalimeintotheglass,rubtherimoftheglass

withjuice,andthendroptheremainingwedgesintoglass

3. AddGin.

4. Topwithsodatotaste.

MintJulep

Thisisagreatrecipeforusingupleftoverchampagneorsparklingwine

becausethesugarreactivatesthefizz.

Ingredients:

5–10sprigsofmint,plus1togarnish

½floz(15ml)sugarsyrup

1dashlimejuice

Champagne,totopup

Direction:

1. Placethemint,limejuiceandsugarsyrupintoalongtumbler,add

crushedice,andtopupwithchampagne.Garnishwithafloatingmint

leaf.

Conclusion

Thankssomuchfortakingthisnostalgicjourneywithme,andIhopeto

seeinthereviewsofthesuccessesofthedishesyouhavemade.Itwouldbe
lovelytothinkwecouldresurrectsomeofthegreatwondersoftheculinary
worldlikeQueenMab’spuddingandEspagnoleSauce.

Idearlyhopeyouhaveenjoyedyourforayintohow“theotherhalf

lived.”Iwonderifwewillevergetbacktothosewaysofdiningagain.Clearly,
whenyoulookattheamountofbutterandcream,Ithinkmostofuswouldbalk
atsuchexcessinonesitting,buttheelegantmenusaresobeautiful,aren’tthey?

What’smoreIthinkthereisalottobelearnedfromhowlongthe

aristocracytookeatingtheirfood.Theyhadtimetolistentoeachother,toknow
whatwashappeningineachother’slives.Well,clearly,thosewouldbethebits
theywantedeachothertoknowanyway!

WhistthefoodbillofahousesuchasDowntonwaslarge,bytoday’s

standardsitcouldbeconsideredmodest.Foodwasseenasanasset,andEngland
livedbythemantra“Wastenot,wantnot.”Thefoodonthetablewentavery
longway.

Thisbookisasnapshotintohowlifewastochange,really.Itwasthe

endofabeautifuleraofwhichmynationisincrediblyproud,buttheclass
systemveryrightlywascomingtoanend.Forallthegoodthatbroughtinterms
ofbetterhealthcare,betterjobs,andimprovededucation,wemournthepassing
ofgreattraditionsofgrandeursuchasthese.

Withtradition,ofcourse,cameonerousstandardsofetiquette.Ifyou

wouldbeinterestedinknowingmoreaboutseatingdictates,cutlerylayout,and
indeedthealmostscientificrulesoftabledecorationoftheera,youmightwant
toread“

ChristmasatDownton

”whereIhavecoveredthisatlength.