TeaatDownton
AfternoonTeaRecipesFromTheUnofficialGuideto
DowntonAbbey
ElizabethFellow
©2014HealthyWealthynWisePress
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TableofContents
TheOriginsandHistoryofAfternoonTea:
ChangeoftheRoleofAfternoonTeaAlongsidetheRoleofWomen
CreamTea,CelebrationTeaandRoyalTea
TheEdwardianKitchenandKitchenGarden
TheRecipes....fromtheBottomoftheCakeStand,Up!
LadySybil’sCreamedChickenSandwich
Briathwait’sDevilledSalmonSandwich
HowtoMakeSweetShortCrustPastry(alsokn0wnasPâtéSucrée)
DrawingRoomFruitTartswithCrèmePâtissière
Introduction
ComerainorshineinEdwardianEngland,everythingstoppedfortea.
ButwhatwouldourbelovedCrawleyhouseholdhaveeatenattheirsacred4
o’clockinstitution?
ThesearetherecipesofthegoldenageofEngland.Attheheightofthe
poweroftheBritishEmpire,MrsPatmorewouldhaveeverypossiblekindof
deliciousingredientstodrawfrom.
Sadlyovertimethetraditionofteahasdeclinedbutrecentlyithas
enjoyedaratherelaboraterenaissance.
Thisbooktakesyoustepbystepthroughhowtothrowtheperfecttea
party.Fromtheetiquettebehindhowtoholdone’steacupcorrectlytotherecipe
forthefavouritesandwichofQueenAlexandraofthetime.
Wowallofyourfriendswiththesesimpletofollowauthenticrecipes,
andbesureeventheDowagerDuchesswouldbeimpressedbyyoursocial
graces.
Fromthebottomtiersandwichestotheelegantcakesofthetoptier,we
coveritall.Notforgettingofcoursetheperfectsconerecipeandits
accompanyingjams.
FollowthewaysMrsPatmorewouldhaveplannedhermenustokeep
spendingtominimumandyoutoocanenjoyamostdelightfulrepastforjusta
fewshilling!
So,whatarewaitingwefor?Carsonhasopenedthedoortoletyou
inside.Let’sseewhat’sfortea....
Preface
Thisbookisarrangedintotwomainsections.Thefirstisthehistory
behindafternoontea.Howitcametobe.WhyitflourishedandhowEnglandhas
nearlylostoneofitsfinestinstitutions.Hopefullyyou,thereaderwilldoyour
bittoreviveit.
Wediscusshowtomaketheperfectcupoftea,andwhyinfactthe
Englishlovethebeveragequitesomuch.
Inthesecondpartofthebookaretherecipes.
Manyaretakenfromoriginalcookbooksofthetime,otherslikethe
ChelseaBunandEcclesCakehasstoodthetestoftimeandhavebeenpastfrom
mothertodaughter.
Followthetipsforetiquetteofwhichpartoftheteacupgoeswhereand
avoidthosedreadfulfauxpaswhichreallyonecanonlyexcuseTomBranson
frommaking.
Withoutfurtherado...It’stimefortea.
Elizabeth
Fellow
TheOriginsandHistoryofAfternoonTea:
TheafternoonteaisthequintessentialBritishtradition.Anypoliticalchanges
tobemadebymembersoftheDowntonhouseholdaremanoeuvredand
strategizedbythewomenatteatime.Unravellingtheirnapkinsonejustknows
therewillbesomethingofgreatimportancediscussed.Butjusthowdiditcome
tobe,thatinEngland“Everythingstopsfortea”?
Itsoriginsdatebacktothemid1840s.Itisthoughtweowethankstothe
DuchessofBedford,AnnaMarieRussell,alifelongfriendandLadyofthe
BedchambertoQueenVictoria.OnavisittotheDukeofRutlandinthe
beautifulBelvoirCastle(pronouncedBeaver)inLeicestershire,theduchess
foundshewastoohungrytowaituntildinnerintheeveningwhichwouldhave
beenservedatabout8pm.
Sheinstructedherladyinwaitingtobringhersomesandwichesandcake
whichsheateinherchamber.Findingittheperfectrepasttogetherthrough
frombreakfasttoevening,shebegantakingthisnewmealeachday.Realisingit
couldbequitejollytocollectnewsandchattersheinvitedotherladiestojoin
herinherownchamberatWoburnAbbey,ontheborderofBuckinghamshire
andBedfordshire.
Theduchesswasacelebratedsocialite,andwasfamousforherloveofgossip
whichgotherintotroubleonmorethanoneoccasion.VisitingLondon,shetook
herpenchantforteapartieswithher.Suddenlyeveryonewantedtodothesame.
LadiesacrossthelengthandbreadthofEnglandweretakingtea.Asitgainedin
favour,sodiditinrespectability.Partiescameoutofthebedchamberandwere
movedtothedrawingroom.
In1857,theDuchessdied.ThreeyearslaterQueenVictoriatragicallyalso
losttheloveofherlife,whenPrinceAlbertdied.Griefstricken,Victoria
mournedandherfriendswatchedonsadly.Astimepassed,shewasencouraged
tostartinvitingfriendstoteaasawaytodistractherfromhersorrowandmove
backintothepubliceye.AstheQueentooktea,sodidtherestofsocietyandthe
aristocracy.Nowratherthanthelongwaitfrombreakfasttodinnertime,alight
luncheonhadbeenaddedandtheobligatoryafternoontea.
OriginsandHistoryofHighTea
Laterwewilltalkalittlemoreaboutthebeveragetea.Buthere,itis
importanttoknowitwasanextremelyexpensivecommodity.Unabletoafford
thelavishtea,theservantsandworkingclasseswantedtheirownversiontokeep
themgoing.Inthelargehouses,whentheteapotshadbeendrainedupstairs,the
tealeaveswereusedagainbytheservants,thenwhenreusedweresoldonagain
atthebackdoor.
IntheMidlandsandNorthernEnglandthefactorieschokedoutblacksmogas
theIndustrialRevolutionwaswellunderway.Hungryworkerscamehomefrom
theirjobsandcoldmeatsandacupofteawereplacedonthetableforthemto
eat.At6pm,thismealbecameknownashightea.
Unlikethelowsofasintheelegantdrawingrooms,highteawaseatensitting
atthetable.Thename“High”camefromthechairsonwhichtheworking
classessat.YouwillsometimesseeafternoonteaalsocalledLowTeabutitis
notatermoftenused.
Later,HighTeawouldalsocometomeanasimplemealwhichthefamilyof
thehousecouldrustleupiftheservantswereaway;somethingsmall,fillingand
simple.
ChangeoftheRoleofAfternoonTeaAlongsidetheRoleofWomen
InsomewaysthelongevityoflifeinBritainwaslengthenedbytherisein
popularityfortea.Sincethewaterhadtobeboileditofferedasafedrinkto
quaff,takingtheplaceofthegallonsofalewhichweredrunkeachdayfrom
evenbreakfasttime.
InVictorianBritain,womenwereintendedtobemerelydecorativeas
opposedtouseful.Awell-bredwomanshouldbeseenandnotheard.Inthe
workingclasses,shopgirlshadtorenounceacareerinordertobecomeawife.
It’sworthrememberingwhilsttheroleofwomenhaschangedovertime,their
biologyhasnot.Femaleswereeverybitasbrightthenastheyarenow.Many
weresavvy,afewwereschemersandseveralwereastutepoliticians.Insome
waystheyknewhowto“work”theirmentotheirownendsbetterthanwedo
now.Afternoonteawasachanceforthewomentorallytheirowntroopsand
sendthembacktotheirhusbandstosetchangeinmotion.
Yetdespitethisnewfoundpowertherewasarumblingunderground.Fervour
forchangewasgatheringmomentum.In1897thesuffragemovementwas
formedandmiddleclasswomenbeganlobbyingparliamentforVotesfor
Women.
Thesewereeducatedwomen,withstrongmindsandforcefulideals.
Afternoonteawasthechangeperfectopportunityforthecontagionforchangeto
spread.Itwasaslowandpainstakingprocess.Thewindsofchangeblewalittle
strongeraswarbrokeoutin1914.Withmentakenfromtheworkforcetothe
frontlines,thecountryneededwomentobeemployedtokeepthecountry
turning.Between1914-18England’sworkforceaddedanotheronemillion
womentoitsnumber.
Insomewaysthechangewastemporary.Whenwarwasoverservicemen
returnedtotakebacktheirjobsandfemaleswereexpectedtoresumetotheir
more“natural”rolesaswivesandmothers.The1918Representationofthe
PeoplesActgaveover21’smentherighttovote,andtowomenalsooverthe
ageof30.
Forsomewomen,theneedtomoveforwardwasirresistible.Theyhadtasted
freedomandithadbeengood.Theynolongerwantedtheshacklesofthetrussed
upelegantfrocks,theirneedleworkandstrollsaroundthegarden.Theiractive
mindswerethirstyformorechancestoshine.
WatchthehemlinesofladiesEdithandMary’sdressesasahinttotheir
attitudestowork.Famouslyastheroaringtwentiestakehold,thekneelength
flapperdressesdeclaretotheworldthatwomennowwanttobecomeactive.
Soasgraduallythewomencomeoutofthehomeandintotheworkplace,it
becomesharderandharderfortheafternoonteatoholditsplaceintheday.
Thenjust21yearsaftertheWartoEndAllWarsended,Germanyinvaded
PolandandsuddenlythewomenofEnglandfoundthemselvesbusyagain.
Manywomen,thistimewereemployedontheland,ensuringthecountryhad
enoughfoodtosustainthemthroughthewareffort.Rationingtookhold.In1940
butterandsugarwererationed,in’41eggsweretoo.Twoouncesofbutter,8
ouncesofsugarandoneeggaweek(peradult)werescantpickingsforthe
creationofanafternoontea.Graduallytrendschangedtoonelargecakeandthe
traditionbegantopeteraway.
ThankstoprogramslikeDowntonAbbey,theoldsayingiscomingtrue.
Whatgoesaroundcomesaround.Theafternoonteaisenjoyingsomewhatofa
revival.It’sdowntopeoplelikeyouandmetoensurethatitgrowsinpopularity
andcanbecomeaninstitutiononcemore.
Onalastnote:youmayfinditinterestingtoknowQueenElizabethissaidto
stillenjoyasliceofcakeandabiscuiteachafternoonat5pm.IntheMidlands,
peoplestillcomehometoeattearatherthandinner,whichisreservedfor
parties.
CreamTea,CelebrationTeaandRoyalTea
Youmayalsoseetheseterms.Forthepurposesofclarity:
1. Acreamteaissconesservedwithlashingsofwhippedcreamand
jam.ThebestofthesearetobefoundinDevonandCornwallonthe
southcoast.Asanaside,oneshouldneveraddcreamtothebeverage,
tea;alwaysmilkorlemon.
2. Acelebrationteaisateapartywherethereisaspecialoccasioncake
servedtoo.Mostusuallythiscouldbeforabirthdayorengagement
party.
3. TheRoyalTeaissaidtohavebeenmanufacturedbytheRitz.It
beginswithChampagneandendswithsherry.
TheEdwardianKitchenandKitchenGarden
WhilstfilmedatHighclerecastlewhichisnotfarfromLondon,thefictional
DowntonAbbeyissetinthebeautifulrollingdalesofYorkshire.Inthefreshair,
finecattleroamthefieldsandwonderfulcropsgrowaplenty.
MrsPatmoreandDaisycreatedculinarymasterpiecesfromfinecropsand
wonderfulmeats.Inadditiontothis,theEnglishkitchenhadthespoilsof
foodstuffsfromaroundtheworld.Attheheightofitspowerin1922theBritish
Empireheldswayover458millionpeople,whichwasthenonefifthofthe
planet’spopulation.
CoincidentallyitwasinthatveryyearthatLordCarnarvon,(thethen-time
residentofthetrueHighclere)discoveredthetombofTutankhamen.The
ingredientsofthedishesofthetimeofpaidtestamenttothesewell-travelled
influencesandfascinations.
Despiteallofthishowever,theeveningdinnerswouldbepredominately
Frenchinspired,(duetothemagicMarcAntoineCarėmehadcreatedinthe
kitchensofGeorgeIVattheturnofthe19
th
century).Afternoonteahowever,
remainedindisputablyBritish.Downstairsmealswerelessfancy.Thefareofthe
staffwouldbethelikesofstewsandhotpots(aLancashiredish).
Seasonality
InahouseofthesizeofDownton,thecookwouldlikelybethebestpaidof
thehouseholdstaff,followedbytheButler.AsMrsPatmoreisfemalehowever,
weshouldsuspectshewouldhavebeenpaidaround£10(around$5,000dollars
intoday’smoney)lessayearthananymaleequivalenttheremayhavebeen.
Requiredtofeednotonlythefamilybutthestafftoo,sheandDaisywould
preparefoodforaround30peopleeachday.Inadditiontothecooking,she
wouldhavetosourceproducewhichwouldkeepthefoodbilllow.
HousessuchasDowntonenjoyedstunningkitchengardensladenwithall
mannerofdeliciousvegetables,herbsandfruits.Exploitingtheseasonalgluts
notonlyhelpedthepursestringsbutimprovedtheflavouroftheculinary
creationstoo.
Theywouldhaveenjoyedawidevarietyofgame,especiallyduringthe
shootingseasons(Aug12
th
toDec10
th
)andriverfishsuchastroutandsalmon.
Aseverygoodcookknows,togettheverybestmonetaryvalueinakitchen,
onemustuseingredientscleverly.Sandwichesforinstancearealwaysmade
frommincedcoldmeats;potentiallythesewerealeftoverbonusfromanother
richermeal.Ondayswherethefamilyenjoyedmeringuesatdinner,downstairs
mayhaveenjoyedtreacletartusingtheleftoveryolks.
Onefinalpointtoconsiderismealswereservedinthekitchenandthenfull
platesweretakentothediningroom.Thismeantofcourse,ifMrsP.wantedto
squirrelawayhalfachickenfortomorrow’ssandwiches,thiswasentirelyunder
hercontrol.
DowntonandHighclere
OfallthecountiesinEngland,Yorkshirepossiblyhastherichesttraditionof
cakes.Parkin,BramBrackandofcoursetheirfamousYorkshirepuddings
(originallyeatenwithJamratherthanroastbeef)havebecometimelessclassics.
ThePerfectPotofTea
TeahadinitiallyfounditswaytoEnglandinthemid1600s,andwastouted
inthecoffeehousesofthetime.Theseweredensofgreatthinking,political
debateandanarchy.In1660twoouncesofteewerepresentedtoKingCharlesII
atcourtandhisPortuguesewife,CatherineofBraganza,tooktodrinkingteain
court.
Thebeveragewasanimmediatehit.
OriginallygrowninChina,aroundthetimeofAnnaofBedford’sfirst
sandwich,smalltreedraftsweresecretedawayfromChinaandovertoIndia.
MainlyduetotheeffortsoftheEastIndiaTeaCompanythisiswheremostof
thetealeavesofthetimewouldhavecomefrom.
Thedispersalofteawasgreatlyhelpedbythegrowthoftherailwaysofthe
time,butdemandfaroutstrippedsupplywhichmeantanounceoftealeaveswas
anextremelyexpensivecommodity.Bytheturnofthetwentiethcentury,the
pricewarwasjustbeginningtolevelandtheCrawleyhouseholdwouldhavefelt
thepricebeginningtoplummetfast.
Whilstthetraditionofafternoonteahasdeclined,teadrinkingisverymuch
aliveandwellinBritainwiththeestimationthattheaveragepersonwillget
through1.9kg(justover4lbs)ofteaayear.
GradingofTea
Apartfromthewealthofdifferentteasavailable(AnEdwardianteawould
alwayshavehadblacktea)theleavesarealsoclassifiedaccordingtothegrade
ofthetea.ForthosenotfamiliarteaisthedriedleavesoftheCamelliasinensis
bush.
ThefinestofallteasistheOrangePekoe.Ratherthanbeingatypeoftea,
thistellsusonlythetopyoungestbudshavebeentakenalongwithoneor
perhapstwooftheyoungleaves.Theseleavesarerolledintolittleballsand
makeafullbodiedyetlighttea.YouwillseethislabelledasOP.
BOPreferstoBrokenOrangePekoe,thesecondgrade.Thishasbeen
processedtoputtheteaintobags(asinpackagingnotteabags!)Astheleaves
arebroken,thereisofcoursebreakageanddust…thisisthelowestgradecalled
FanningsorDust.
FortheDowagerDuchessofcourse,therewouldonlyhavebeenOrange
Pekoe.
HowtoMakeandServeTea
Mygrandmotherwouldtellyouthebestteaismadeinachinateapotwhere
therehasbeensomeaccumulationoftanninontheinsideovertime!At
DowntonAbbeyhoweveracleanwarmedbonechinaorsilverteapotwereused.
Watermustbebroughttoarollingboilandthenquicklyaddedtotheleavesin
thepot.Thetasteofagoodcupofteareliesontherebeingplentyofoxygenin
thewater;boilitfortoolongandtheoxygenevaporatesoff.
HowMuchTeatoUse?
Aroundthistime,intheStates,teabagswerestartingtobeusedaftersilken
pouchesofteaweremistakenlyplacedintoteabagsin1908.Certainlybythe
‘20s,thiswasstandardAmericanwaytomaketea.Suggestingsuchathingin
Yorkshirewould,Isuspect,haveguaranteedyouwouldbeneverinvitedfortea
again.
Forauthenticityplease….anAfternoonTeamustbemadewithlooseleaves.
Oneteaspoonofteaperpersonandoneforthepot!
WarmingofthePot
YoumayhaveseenVioletusingthemostmagnificenttiltingkettletoadd
watertotheteapot,onlytothrowitaway.Heresheiswarmingthepot.Sincethe
keytotheinfusionoftheleavesistheybecomeverywarm,thisquickrinse
roundraisesthetemperaturesothechillofthechinadoesnotleachtheprecious
heatfromthewater.
HowLongShoulditStand?
Leavetheteatosteepfor3-4minutesandthengivethepotastir.Replacethe
lidsecurely.
WhoPourstheTea?
Traditionallythepotwouldhavebeenplaced,bytheteaboy,infrontofthe
hostessinorderthatshecouldservetoherguests.Ifhoweversomething
occurredtostopthishappening,thenthepersonclosesttothepotshouldofferto
takeover.Thetraditionalwaytodothisistoaskthequestion“ShallIbe
mother?Onewouldsupposethough,thismaybeathrowbacktohightearather
thanafternoontea.
Alwaysserveclockwisearoundthetable.Pourtheteathroughastrainerto
catchtheleaves.(ThoseofyouwhohaveabitoftheGypsyRoseLeeinyou
maychooseignorethisstepanddoalittlefortunetelling.Whilstthatisawhole
differentbook,IfeelsuretheDuchesswouldneverhaveheldtruckwith“such
utternonsense”.
AddingMilkandLemon
Historicallyonehadaddedmilkfirstinordertoprotecttheglazeofthe
preciouscups.Therefore,addingitaftertheteawasasignofgreatstatus,one
couldaffordtoputthetasteoftheteaoverthecup.
Actuallyithasbeenscientificallyproventeaaddedtomilktastesdifferentto
milkaddedtotea(theheatingofthemilkdenatureslactalbuminand
lactoglobulinapparently).Itiscorrecttoaddmilktoalreadypouredtea.
Ifhoweveroneprefersafreshersharperbrew,thenasliceoflemoncanbe
addedinstead.ThisisparticularlyniceifyouchoosetoserveEarlGrey.Donot
betemptedtoaddboth,sincethecitruswillcurdleyourmilk.
EtiquetteoftheTeacup
Areyouready?
Whenteaisservedatthetable,oneshouldleavethesauceronthetableand
liftthecupalone.Whenstandingorsittingonalowchair,liftboth.Theyshould
neverbestretchedmorethan12inchesapart.Whensitting,cradlethecupand
saucerinthelapandneverwavearoundyourcupwhenspeaking.
Theteaspoonandhandleofthecupshouldalwaysberestedatthepositionof
4o’clock.
Whenstirringinmilkandsugar,gentlymovethefluidinafigureof8taking
carenottoletthespoonclinkthechina.
TheRoleofthePinkie!
Whenholdingyourteacup,itshouldrestontheringfingerwhichalongwiththe
littlefingershouldbecurledinwards.ThisdatesbacktoRomantimes,whenthe
elitewouldeatwiththreefingerswhilsthoodlumsshovelledinfoodwiththeir
entirehand.
TheRecipes....fromtheBottomoftheCakeStand,Up!
Sowithoutfurtheradolet’sstartthinkingaboutcreationstodelightthepalate.
PleasebearinmindtheoriginsofAfternoonTeawerefillinganappetitegap.
Teaisdesignedtoavoidthebloodsugardip,nothaveyoubouncingoffthe
ceilingfromtoomuchsugar.Althoughitcanbetemptingtoladenplateswith
cakes,makeitgentileandelegant,notcomainducing!
Whenconsideringwhattomakehereisatip:rememberMrsPatmorewould
makeuseofwhatshehad.Trytooverlapyourrecipestogetthemostforyour
money.Also,shewouldhavestoredthingslikepastryonthecoolstepsofher
lardersoshedidnothavetokeeprepeatingthesamerecipesoverandover
again.Pastryfreezeswell,makemorethanyouneedandputhalfinthefreezer
tomakeanotherbatchlater.
Whilstnowadaystinycircularcakesadornthetoptier,don’tmakeextrawork
foryourself.Traybakesworkwelltobecutintobitesizepiecesorifyouwant
tobereallyclevercutoutcirclesfromthemusingacookiecutter.
Whenjudgingsize,considerthis.Everythingonyourcakestandshouldbe
eateninonlytwobites.
Arrangementofthedelicaciesshouldbe:
1.
Toptier:cakes
2.
Middletier:scones
3.
Bottomtier:sandwiches
Sandwiches
Manyhotelswhichserveteawillusetriangularcutsofbread.TheEdwardian
sandwicheswererectangularfingers.Crustswerealwayscutoffandthe
ingredientsarenotdesignedtobesubtle.Oftentheymadegooduseof
chutney’s,herbs,andspicestoensureaflavourexplosioninthemouth.
Thesandwichwasalreadyverypopularbythetimeafternoonteawasthought
of.Legendhasitthe4
th
EarlofSandwichorderedhisvalettobringhimsome
meatbetweentwoslicesofbreadatthegamingtableinthe18
th
Century.“I’ll
havethesameasSandwich”washeardtofollow.Itseemslikelythough,this
wastobethebeginningofthenameratherthanthediscoveryofthemighty
dish!
ThebreadofEdwardiansandwicheswouldalwayshavebeenthinslicesfrom
aPullmanLoaf,asquaresidedwhitetinloaf.Brownbreadsandwichesarenot
reallyauthentictotheperiod.
Forthemostsuccessat“thelook”,createyourwholesandwichesandstack
them.Then,managingthepiles,sliceawaythecrustsandcutthesandwiches
into4fingers.Gatheringupeachstack,laythemdownonyourstand.This
shouldensureperfectlymeasuredblocksoffood,neatandverypretty.
Therecipeswhichfollowaremoreunusualones,ofcoursehamandcheese
wereserved;,especiallydownstairs…thisisjustaglimpseofsomemore
spectacularefforts.Manyoftheseareadaptedfromthe1925cookerybibleby
C.FLeyel:“TheGentleArtofCookery”.
Historically,tokeepthesandwichescooluntilrequired,thecookwouldtake
anapkinsoakedandsqueezedofcoldwaterandlayitover.
Pleasenote:allsandwichrecipesaretomake4servings.
QueenAlexandra’sSandwich
AlexandraofDenmarkwasmarriedtoEdwardVII.Shewasthelongestever
holderofthetitlePrincessofWalesandonthedeathofhermother-in-law
QueenVictoriain1901becameEmpressofIndiaandwifetotheKingof
England.
ThiswasthequintessentialsandwichofEdwardiansociety.
Fortheflavouredbutter:5ozbutter½tbslemonjuice1tbsmildFrench
mustardFortheChickenMayonnaise:4oz
3tbs
SprinkleofhotsauceorTabascoAlso:8slicesofbread4slicesofcooked
tongueSprinkleofmustardcressorwatercress.
FirstCombineingredientsforchickenmayonnaiseandsetaside.
Then
,andcoat4oftheslicesofbread.
Layoverthetongue,thenathinlayerofchickenmayonnaise,somecressand
thentopwiththeothersliceofbread.
LadyMary’sSmokedSalmonandDill
Forthebutter:
2½oz(65g)butter1heapedtspfreshdillSqueezeoflemonjuiceAlso:
8slicesofbread
4-8slicesofsmokedsalmon(dependsonsizeofpieces)¼cucumber(thinly
slicedandpeeled)
.Spreadontothebread.Addsalmonand
cucumberandthenaddthetopsliceofbread.
LadySybil’sCreamedChickenSandwich
8oz(225g)minced,poachedchicken8oz(225g)celery8oz(225g)very
½gratedonion2beateneggwhites8slicesofbreadSautétheceleryuntilitis
softenedandtranslucentandaddthegratedonion.Whensoftenedaddthe
chickenandthickenedsauce.
Whiptheeggwhitestostiffpeaksandthencombinealso.
Addthemixtoa
andheatbutdonotallowittocometotheboil.(As
anindicatorforhealthreasonsthechickenneedstoreach79degrees(174
Farenheit)tobesafetoeatwhenallowedcoolagain–soyouarelookingfora
hintofabubblerisinginthesauce).
Pourtheblendintoamould.Letitcoolandsetsolid.
Turnoutandslicetouseonyoursandwiches.
Isobel’sCheeseSandwich
2eggs
2oz(60g)gratedparmesancheese
8slicesofbread
Beattheeggsandaddthecheese.Cookuntilthickenedandleavetocool.
Spreadoverthebreadwithanchovypaste.Addthecheesemix.
Martha’sColdDevilSandwich
8oz(225g)mincedpoachedchicken
8oz(225g)celery,finelychopped
3oz(85g)tartarsauce
8slicesofbread
Mixtogetherandthencreate!
Briathwait’sDevilledSalmonSandwich
4oz(125g)Tinsalmon
2oz(60g)ButterCoupleofshakesofWorcestersauce¼Cucumber
8slicesofbread
PoundthesalmonandbuttertogetherandseasonwithWorcestersauce,saltand
pepper.
DipthecucumberinFrenchdressing.
Spreadbetweenthebread.
MrsHughes’CheeseandEggSandwiches
6oz(140g)gratedcheddar
1hard-boiledegg
1ozbutter
1tbsFrenchmustard
8slicesofbread
Blendtheeggyolkwiththebutter.Addinthemustard.Addthecheeseand
spreadbetweenthebreadslices.
SomeRepeatedDesignElements
Foreasethissectioncoverssomeofthemorerepetitiveelementswhichappear
intherecipes.Feelfreetoskipstraighttothenextsectionwherewediscover
howtomaketheperfect
Mayonnaise
Forauthenticityyoushouldattempttocreaterealmayonnaise.Thetasteisso
muchsuperiortoo.Itisincrediblyeasytomake.Daisyusedahandwhiskbut
puttingthefoodprocessoronthelowestsettingthengentlydrizzlingtheoilinto
thespoutiseasierandfarlessstress.Forthosewhoarenotpurists…headforthe
supermarket.
Don’tforgetuseupyourleftovereggwhitesforvirtuallyfreemacaroons.
2eggyolks
1heapedteaspoonDijonmustard17floz(500ml)oliveoil1-2tbswhitewine
vinegar½lemon
seasalt
Whiskyoureggyolks.Slowlyaddtheoilwhilstcontinuingtowhisk.Stopwhen
youhaveaddedhalfandaddhalfthevinegartoslackenthemix.Carryonagain
untilalltheoilisblendedinandthenseasonwiththerestofthevinegar,lemon
andsalt.
Storeinasterilizedjarforuptoaweek
BechamelSauce
Thisisagoodexampleofusingleftoversfortomorrow’sTea.Thisrecipewill
makeenoughforyoutoserveataneveningmealormakealasagne.Keepsome
backtoaddthemostsumptuousdimensiontoyoursandwiches.
15floz(425ml)chickenstock10floz(280ml)milk2ozbutter1ozflour6
peppercorns1carrot1onionParsleyandhalfabayleafSaltandpepperTake
thestock,milk,carrot,onions,herbandseasoningandheattogether.Bringtothe
boilandleavetosimmerfor20minutes.Removefromtheheatandstrain
throughasieveretainingthemilkmix.
Nowheattogetherthebutterandflourandthoroughlycombined,littlebylittle
addthemilkmix.Ensureateachstakethemilkisentirelyabsorbedandthe
butterandflourrouxreturnstoasmoothpaste.Stirwelluntilallthemilkis
addedandthesaucethickens.Addsaltandpeppertoseason.
Flavoredbutters
Muchoftheflavouringofthesandwichesisbuiltintothebutter.Unlessdirected
chooseunsaltedbutter(margarinewasinkitchensbythenbutbuttertastesso
muchbetter!)andallowittosoftentoroomtemperaturebeforetryingtoworkit.
Mixinyouringredientsandthenreplacetotherefrigeratortochillandletthe
flavourspermeate.
Whenitistimetomakethesandwiches,allowittosoftenagainforeaseof
spreading.
AnchovyPaste
Afavouriteofthetime,anchovypastewasoftenusedasasandwichalternative
tobutter.Itisalsodeliciousontoast.
3oz(75g)saltedanchovyfillets
3½oz(100g)butterAlargepincheachofgratednutmeg,groundgingerand
groundcinnamonAcoupleofshakesofTabasco
Mashtogetherwell,orwizupinthefoodprocessor.
FrenchDressing
1tbspwhitewinevinegar
Salt&peppertotaste
1tspdijonmustard
3tbspoliveoil
1crushedgarlicclove
Youwillneedajarwithalidtomix.Shakevigorously!Thisrecipekeepsforup
toweekifstoredinthefridge.
MincedMeat
Themeatusedintherecipesisusuallycoldbroiled(poached)meatwhichhas
beenminced.Daisy’sarmwouldhavebeenwellemployedturningthehandle
forhoursbutforeasefeelfreetoshredthechickenorputitintothefood
processor.Whilstyouwillnotgetthelongsausageshapesshewouldhave
achieved,settingthemachineonto“pulse”givesafairlygoodcomparison.
HowtoPoachaChicken
Eventodaythisisthetastiestandmosteconomicalwaytomakeyourbirdfeed
thefamily.Itensuredeverylastscrapofthemeatfallsawayfromtheboneand
alsomakesadeliciousbi-productofchickenstockforgraviesandsoups.
Placeyourbirdintoyourlargestcookingpot.Addincelery,carrots,onion,bay
leafandpeppercorns,andfillwithenoughwatertocover.
Bringtotheboilandthenleavetosimmerforanhourand20minutes.
Servehotorsetasidetocoolinordertominceforsandwiches.
SconesandJams
BasicSconeRecipe
Theperfectbasicsconebelowcanbeadaptedaddingdriedfruitandspices.If
addingsultanas,soakthemincoldteatoplumpupandavoidburningduring
baking.Aswithallbaking,theweatherwillaffecthowmuchfluidyourflour
willtakeup.Additlittlebylittletoensureyoumakedry,easilyworkable
dough.
8oz(225g)self-risingflour
Pinchofsalt
2oz(55g)butter
1oz(25g)caster(superfine)sugar
5floz(150ml)milk
1free-rangeegg,beaten,toglaze(alternativelyusealittlemilk)
Preheatovento220degreesofgasmark7
Rubtogetherthebutterandflour,stirinthesugarandsalt.Combinetogether
withthemilkandgentlypatintodoughwithyourhands.Shapeintoadiscof
around1inchthick.
Lightlygreaseabakingtry.Useacuttertocutoutshapesandthenglazewith
themilkoregg.
Bakefor12-15minutesuntillightlygoldenbrown.
Removefromtheovenandplaceonacoolingrack.Toachievethatlovelysoft
toppedscone,coverwithadampteatowelduringcooling.Foracrunchier
scone,omitthisstep.
JamsandPreserves
Tomakeareallygreatjamitisimportanttoensurethesugarsyrupcooks
longenoughandhotenoughforthejamtosethard.Thisofcoursebrings
dangersofscalds,beveryawareandmindfulofsplashes.
Forthoseluckyenoughtohaveasugarthermometerweareaimingforis
104/220degrees.Fortherestofusthesettingpointcanbecheckedbyplacinga
smallplateinthefreezer.Whenyourjamhasboiledforaround15minutes,
spoonasmallamountontoyourchilledplate.Whenitreachestheright
consistencyyouwillbeabletopushitwithyourfingeranditwillformaskin.If
thisdoesnothappen,giveitafewminuteslonger.
Yourpancanalsoinfluencehowwellyourjamsets.Thewiderthetopthe
moresurfaceareaisforevaporation,thebetterthejam.
Tostorethejamitneedstogointosterilizedjarstoavoidmouldsforming.
Addinghotjamtocoldglasswillcauseittoshatter,soitmakessensetohave
thejarsdryingasyoumakethejam.Washthoroughlyinhotsoapywaterand
rinse.Placeupsidedownintoamoderateovenfor5minutestodrywithout
contaminants.Lidsshouldbeboiledfor5minutes.Removefromtheovenwith
ovenmitts.
LadyRose’sStrawberryPreserve
TheeasiestjameverinventedandIpromiseyouwillneverbuyapotfromthe
shopagain!
2lb(900g)slightlyunder-ripestrawberries1½lb(700g)sugarJuice1large
lemon½oz(10g)butterPlaceyourstrawberriesandsugarintoyourpreserving
panandleaveovernight.Thesugarwillleachoutallofthejuicebymorning.I
liketoleaveminefor24hours.
Chillyourplatesandsterilizeyourjars
Turnontoamoderateheatandallowthesugarcrystalstodissolve.Whenyou
canseenomorecrystalsturnuptoaveryhighheat,addthejuiceofthelemon
(mindtheseeds!)andletthemixtureboilhardforexactly8minutes.
Ifyouarehappyithasset,turnofftheheatandallowittocoolinthepanfor15
minutes.(Ifyoupotitfasterallthestrawberriesfalltothebottomofthejar.)
Leavetocoolfullybeforeaddingjarlids.Processfor5minutesinawaterbath.
TheCountess’sLemonCurd
Makes1large9ozjarofcurd4unwaxedlemons,zestandjuice7oz(200g)
sugar
3½oz(100g)unsaltedbutter,cutintocubes3free-rangeeggs,plus1free-range
eggyolk
Addthelemonzest,juice,butterandsugartoa
.Heatoverthe
water,butdonotallowthemixturetotouchthewater.Stirtohelpthebutterand
sugartomeltproperly.
Lightlywhisktheeggsandyolkthenwhiskthemthoroughlyintothemixture.
Astheeggscookthemixturethickens.Whenitiscompletelycookedthrough,
youwillbeabletocoatthebackofaspoonandthendrawaclearlinethrough
withyourfinger.
Addtothejarsandcoolthoroughlybeforeputtingonthelid.Thiswillkeep
forupto3monthsifkeptinthefridge.
LadyEdith’sGooseberryJam
2lb4oz(1kg)gooseberries,topandtailed2lb4oz(1kg)sugar
5floz(150ml)water
Coolyourplatesandsterilizeyourjars.
Addtheingredientstoalargepanandbringtoboil,reducetheheatandletthe
fruitcookuntilsoftened.
Whentheyhavegoneslightlymushy,raisethetemperatureandbringthejamto
araisingboil.
Boilfastfor8minutes.Removefromtheheatandperformaplatetest.Ifnot
quitecookedreturntotheheat,otherwiseskimoffanyscumwithasmallknob
ofbutter.Leavetocoolfor15minutesbeforeputtingintojars.Coolcompletely
beforeputtingonlids.Processfor10minutesinawaterbath.
Cakes
HowtoMakeSweetShortCrustPastry(alsokn0wnasPâtéSucrée)
Thepastriesweretheprettiestpartofthetea.DaisyorIvywouldmostlikely
havemadethepastryandmouldedthemintotinswhilstMrsPatmorewas
involvedincreatingthetastyfillings.Ifyouplantomakemorethanonesetof
pastriesdoubletheamountofpastryyoumakeandstoresomeforlater.
Thereistruthinthesayingcoldhandsmakethebestpastry.Theaimisto
workitaslittleasyoucanandtrytoretainsomeverythinpiecesofbutterinthe
mix.Thisiswhatgivesadeliciousbutterycrunchtothefinishedtart.Always
runyourwristsunderacoldtapsforafewmomentstocoolthebloodrunningto
yourhandsandbringdownyourhandlingtemperature.Usemilkwhichhasbeen
cooledinthefridge.
Daisydidnothavethebenefitofclingfilmbutitisanaddedadvantageto
placeyourdoughbetweentwopiecesandthenafterchillingforhalfanhour,roll
itoutbetweenthefilms.Youwillfinditfareasiertomoveandmanagethanher
oldwayofliftingontherollingpin.
8oz(225g)plainflour4oz(110g)butter3oz(80g)sugar1largeeggRubthe
butterintotheflourusingfingertipsonly.Mixinthesugarandbindtogether
withthebeatenegg.Ifthepastryisalittledry,sprinkleinafewdropsofcold
milk.
Chillfor30minutesbeforeusing.
Manyrecipessay“bakeblind”whichmeansthepastryneedstobebaked
beforethefillingsareadded.
Todothisfirstturnyourtinoverandshapesomebakingparchmenttoitto
giveaguidelineastohowmuchitwilltaketolineit.
Turnthetinbackover,greaseandmouldthepastrytoit.Lightlyprickthe
surfacewithaforktoallowanysteamtoescapeandmakethebasecrisp.Putthe
piecesofmouldedbakingparchmentoverthepastryandweightitdownwith
bakingbeansordriedmarrowfatpeas.
Putintotheoventolightlybake.
HowtoMakePuffPastry
9oz(250g)plainflour
9oz(250g)unsaltedbutter
4½floz(125ml)ice-coldwaterStartbypreparingthebutter.Layitbetween
twosheetsofbakingparchmentandbatterittoasthinasheetasyoucan.
Thencutupthebutterintotinypiecesandrubitintotheflour.
Bringtogetherintoadrydoughwiththewater.
Wrapinclingfilmandchillinthefridgefor15minutes
Takeoutthepastryandrolloutintoarectangleofabout8insby6insTakeup
theedgesandfoldthepastryintothree,sothelayerssitontopofeachother.A
littlelikeanenvelope.
Turnit90degreesandrepeattherollingandfolding.
Turnitafurthertimeandrepeatagain.
Clingfilmandreturntothefridgeforafurther30minutes.
Repeattherollingandfoldingprocessonelasttimeandreturntothefridgeto
chillforafinal30minutes.
Anna’sEggCustards
Useonemixof
Forthecustardfilling:
1¼pint(700ml)full-fat(whole)milk
7free-rangeeggyolks
3½oz(90g)sugar
freshlygroundnutmegPreheattheovento200C/400FGasMark6
Lightlygreasea12—holemuffintin.
Rolloutyourpastryandcutintoroundswithan11cm/4inchcutter.Place
oneineachoftheholesofthetin,mouldingthemtoshape.
Warmthemilkbutdonotallowittoboil.Inanotherlargebowlwhisk
togethertheeggyolksandthesugar.
Pourthenearboilingmilkontotheeggmixture,stirwellandreturnittothe
panandboilgently.Stircontinuouslyuntilthecustardiscookedandcoatsthe
backofthespoon.
Pourthecustardintothepastrycases.
Grateoverwithnutmeg.
Bakeintheovenfor15minutesthenturntheovendownto180andbakefor
afurther10.
Aimforaslightdometothetarts,butnottoolargeasthissignifiesover
cooking.Ifthisdoeshappenyourcustardwillsinkinthemiddle.Torescuethis
letthetincoolforafewminutesinatrayofcoolwater.
Allowthetartstocoolforaround30minutesbeforegentlyliftingfromthe
tin.
DrawingRoomFruitTartswithCrèmePâtissière
Forcrèmepâtissière:18floz(500ml)fullfat(whole)milk2vanillapods,seeds
removedandpodsretained6free-rangeeggs,yolksonly4½oz(120g)caster
sugar2oz(50g)plainflourToppings:Aselectionofberries,blackberries,
strawberriesraspberriesetc4ozApricotjamtoglazeYouwillneed12small
pastrytinswithdetachablebases.
Preheattheovento190C/350F/Gas5.
Sincethepastrywillneedtobebakedblindmakeparchmentpapersfor12
moulds.Greasethetinswell.
Rolloutyourchilledpastryto2-3mmthickness.Linethecaseswithpastry,and
coverwithbakingpaperandbeans.
Resttheseinthefridgefor30minutestoallowthepastrytofirmup.
for15minutes,removefromtheoven.Painteachcasewith
beateneggandreturntobakeforafurther8minutes.
Leavetocoolfor15minutes,trimofftheexcesspastry,liftoutontoacooling
rack.
Nextmakethecrèmepâtissière:Placetheeggs,sugarandflourinalarge
mixingbowlandwhiskuntilthecoloraltersandbecomesapalebuttercup
yellow.
Graduallyaddthewarmmilkandvanillaontotheeggmixture,stirwell.Return
themixturetothepan.
Cookonalowheatuntilitthemixturethickens,thenpourintoacleanbowl.
Placeacircleofgreaseproofpaperonthemixturethiswillstopaskinforming
onthesurface.
Oncethecrèmeiscold,spoonitintothepastrycasesandtopwiththefruit.
Togivethemalustroussheen,melttheapricotjamwith2tbswaterandpaint
overthetarts.
Leavetoset.
MrsPatmore’sYorkshireCurdTarts
RememberLittleMissMuffett,eatinghercurdsandwhey?Thisrecipedoes
exactlythat,bringingaveryoldfashionedtastetothetable.MrsPatmorewould
haveleftthecurdsdrainingthroughmuslinovernightthensettomakingthetarts
nextmorning.
Use1mixof
Forthefilling:
1.2litres/2pintsfull-fat(whole)milk4tbsplemonjuice
½lemon,zestonly
2½oz(65g)butter,softened
2½oz(65g)sugar
1free-rangeegg,beaten
¼tspfinelygratednutmeg
2oz(50g)mixeddriedfruit
Slowlywarmthemilktoagentlesimmer.Removefromtheheatandstirinyour
lemonjuice.Leavetocoolforanhourandstirtwicetohelpthecurdstoform.
Putthecurdsandwheyintoasievelinedwithmuslin(cheesecloth)anddrainthe
wheyoffintoajugovernight.
Rolloutthepastry,mouldtothetins,prickwithaforkandleavetochillinthe
fridgewhilstyoumakethefilling.
Creamthebutterandsugartogetheruntillightandfluffyandtheybecomepale.
Addtheeggwell.Mixinthecurds,fruit,nutmegandlemonzest.
Fillthecasesandbakefor30-35minutesoruntilthepastryisbrownedandthe
custardhasset.
Allowtocoolbeforetakingoutofthetin.
Downton’sFinestLemonTarts
Use1mixof
5free-rangeeggs
4floz(125ml)doublecream(heavywhippingcream)8oz(225g)castersugar
4lemons,juiceandzest
Icingsugar,fordusting
8loosebottomedtartcases
Preheattheovento200C/400F/Gas6
Rolloutthepastryandlinethetarttins.
12-15minutesthenremovethepaperandbeans.Trimaway
anyexcesspastryfromtheedges.Bakeforafurther10minutesuntilpalegold
andcompletelydry.
Whisktogethertheeggsandsugaruntillightandfluffy.Mixinthelemonsand
finallythecream.Usingajug,fillthecasesandreturntotheoven.
Bakefor18minutes,oruntilthelemonfillingisset.
Allowtocoolfor30minutesuntiltakingoutofthetinanddustingwithicing
sugar.
YorkshireAppleTart
2lb(900g)cookingapples,peeledandcored
6oz(170g)sugar
Juiceofhalfalemon
1tspcinnamon
2sweetapples,peeled,coredandthinlysliced
Halfajarofapricotjam
Preheattheovento220C/400F/gasmark7
Rolloutthepastry.Grease,flourandline8tinswiththepastry.Mouldtoshape
andprickwithafork.Setasideinthefridgewhilstyoupreparetheapples.
Chopthecookingapplesintosmallpieces.Addthesewiththesugarandcook
untilmushyandallthejuicehasevaporated.Stirinthelemonjuiceand
cinnamon.
Cutthesweetapplesintoquarters,leavingtheskinonbutremovingthecore.
Slicethequartersverythinly.
Fillthecaseswiththeapplepuréethenarrangetheappleslicesprettilyoverthe
top.Sincetheywillshrink,ensuretheyarewelloverlapped.
Bakefor18minutesoruntiltheapplesandpastrylookcooked.
Warmtheapricotjamwith2tbsofwater,sievetoclearofbits.Brushoverthe
cookedtartasaglaze.
Leavefor30mins.beforeremovingfromthetins.
MacClareChocolateTarts
14oz(400g)plainchocolate,brokenup8tbspdoublecream(heavywhipping
cream)2oz(60g)butter,cubed2tbspcastersugar(optional)Preheattheoven
190°C/380F/Gas5
Rolltheoutthepastry,mouldtothetins,prickthepastryandchillfor30mins
Bakethecasesfor12minutesuntilgoldenbrown.
Meltthechocolate,butter,creamandsugartogetherina
.Cookgently
andthickenfor8minutes.
Spoonthechocolateganacheintothecookedcases.Leavetochillandset.
Decoratewithhalfastrawberryanddustwithicingsugar.
DameNellieMelbaCustardSlice
1mixof
Forthecrèmepâtissière
18floz(500ml)milk1vanillapod,splitdownthemiddleandseedsscrapedout
3½oz(100ml)sugar
4free-rangeeggs,yolksonly
1½oz(40g)cornflour(cornstarch)
1½oz(40g)butter
Fortheicing
7oz(200g)icingsugar
5tspwaterPreheatovento220C/425F/Gas7
GreasetwobakingtraysandlinewithbakingparchmentRolloutthepastryin
twoequalsquaresof20cm/8insFirstmakethecustard:
Gentlyheattogetherthemilkwiththevanillapod.Bringslowlytotheboil.
Inanotherlargebowlwhisktheeggs,sugarandcornflour.
Pourthewarm,infusedmilkontotheeggsmix.Stirwellandreturntotheheat.
Slowlybringitbacktotheboil,stirringcontinually.Asitcooksthecustardwill
coatthebackofthespoon.
Asitboils,takeitofftheheatandtransfertoacleanbowl.
Coverwithclingfilmandleavetosetinthefridge.
Placethepastrysquaresontothesheetsandbakeinapreheatedovenuntilcrisp
andbrowned.Thiswilltakearound15–18mins.Setthemasidetocool.
Whenbothpastryandcustardarecooled,spreadthecustardoverthepastryand
addthetop.
Floodwithwhiteicingandreturnthecaketothefridgetosetthoroughly.
Cutinto8slicestoserve.
DoughBuns
Jimmy’sFinestCrumpets
12floz(350m)halffat(2%)milk,warmedbutnotboiling1lb(450g)allflour
1/8oz(5g)driedyeast2tspsugar12floz(350ml)finger-warmwater(tepid)1
tspSalt1tspbakingpowderVegetableoilforcookingWhisktogethertheflour,
yeast,sugarandmilk,thenaddhalfthewater.Mixuntilsmooththengradually
addtherestofthewateruntilitistheconsistencyofthickcreamCoverthebowl
withadampteatowelandleavetorisefor2hoursuntilitisfrothy.
Warmafryingpanandcoatthinlywithasmallamountofoil.
Usingasmallemptyfoodcanwithbothendscutoff,makearingandpourthe
mixturein.
Asthecrumpetcooksholeswillappearonthesurface.(Ifthemixtureseeps
outsideoftheringitistoothin,addmoreflour).Thiswilltakearound5
minutes.
Removetheringandfliptocookontheundersidefortwotothreeminutes.
Setonacoolingrackandreheatunderthegrillortoasterwhenreadytoserve
withlashingsofbutterandsomehomemadejam.
Molesley’sToastedTeaCakes
8oz(225g)strongwhitebreadflour1/2tspsalt1tspfastactiondriedyeast1oz
15gsoftlightbrownsugar1/4tspfreshlygratednutmeg3oz(75g)mixeddried
vinefruits(raisins,currants,sultanas)2oz(40g)butter,melted4floz(120ml)
fullfat(whole)milk,plusextraforbrushingPreheatovento200C/400F/gas
mark6
Soakthefruitinacupofcoldteafor2minsMixtogethertheflouryeast,sugar
andnutmeginalargebowl.
Inasaucepangentlyheatthemilkandthebutter,butdonotallowittoboil.
Addittothedryingredientsandthefruit,andthenworkuntilitmakesalovely
smoothdough.
Turnoutontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadfor5minutes.
Divideinto8ballsofequalsizeandplaceonalightlygreasedbakingtray.
Coverwithateatowelandleaveinawarmplaceforaround45minutestorise
todoublethesize.
GlazethetopswithmilkPlaceintoapreheatedovenandbakefor15minutes.
RemoveandcoolonarackToserve,cutacrosshorizontally,toastbothhalves
andfloodwithoozingmeltedbutter.
Rosamund’sChelseaBuns
1lb(500g)strongwhiteflour,plusextrafordusting1tspsalt
1x¼oz(7g)sachetfact-actiondriedyeast300ml/10floz(300ml)milk1½oz
(40g)butter,softenedatroomtemperature1free-rangeegg
vegetableoil,forgreasingForthefilling:
1oz(25g)unsaltedbutter,melted
3oz(75g)softbrownsugar
2tspgroundcinnamon5oz(150g)driedmixedfruit
Fortheglaze:2tbspmilk
2tbspcastersugarTomakethedough:addtheyeast,flourandsalttogetherina
largebowl.
Inasaucepanwarmthebutterandmilkgently,butdonotboil.
Mixthemilkmixintothedryingredientsandcombinetogether.
Turnoutontoalightlyflouredsurfaceandkneadforaround5minutes(adding
moreflourifnecessary)untilyouhaveachievedasmoothdough.
Greaseabowlwithvegetableoil,setthedoughinandcoverwithateatowel.
Leavetoriseinawarmplaceforaroundanhouroruntilithasdoubledinsize.
Lightlygreaseabakingtray.
Preheatovento190C/375F/Gas5
Rolloutthedoughintoarectangleabout¾inchthick.
Makethefillingbymeltingthebutterandaddingthespicesandfruit.
Smearalloverthesurfaceofthedough.
Tightlyrollthedoughandfillingintoalongsausage,likeaswissroll.
Takingasharpknifecutthesausageinto10slices.
Laythemontothebakingsheetleavingspaceforthemtorisebetween.
Coverwithateatowelandleavetoriseinawarmplacefor20minutes.
Cookinthepreheatedovenfor15minutes.
Meanwhilemakeyourglazebyheatingthemilkandsugartoaboilthen
simmeringfor3minutes.
RemovetheChelseaBunsfromtheovenandpaintwiththeglaze.
Placeoncoolingracks.
Serveatroomtemperature.
Roughcakes
JosTufton’sFatRascals
FatRascalshavebeeneateninYorkshiresincethereignofElizabethI5½oz
(150g)plainflour
5½oz(150g)self-risingflour1tspbakingpowder5½oz(150g)butter
5½oz(150g)mixeddriedfruit3½oz(100g)sugar
1tspcinnamonpowder
½tspgratednutmeg1orange,zestonly
1lemon,zestonly
1free-rangeeggyolk
About2floz(50ml)milk
Fortheglaze
1free-rangeegg,yolkonly
Pinchofsalt
1tbspwaterFlakedalmondsandglacécherries,todecoratePreheatovento
200C/400F/Gas6
Lightlygreaseabakingtray
Sifttogetherthebakingpowderandfloursandrubtogetherthebutterandflour.
Addinthesugarfruit,zestsandspices.Littlebylittleaddthemilktomakea
workabledough.
Dividein12smallballsandflatten.Layontothebakingsheet.
Fortheglazemixthesaltwaterandbuttertogether.
SprinklewithcherriesandalmondsandpaintwiththeglazeBakefor15-18
minutesoruntilbrownedandset.
Thesearereservedwarmorcoldandafterwithabigdollopofcreamonthe
side.
Marigold’sRockCakes
TheseYorkshirefavouritesspreadacrossBritainintheSecondWorldWaras
theyworkedsowellusingrationingingredients.Thesearesometimesalso
referredtoasDropSconesinotherpartsofthecountry.
8oz(225g)self-raisingflour1tspdoubleactionbakingpowder(US)or1tsp
bakingpowder(UK)4oz(110g)softbutterormargarine2oz(55g)sugarPinch
ofmixedspice40z(110g)mixeddriedfruit2oz(55g)currants1mediumegg1
-3tbspmilkDemerarasugarforsprinklingPreheattheovento180C/350F/Gas
4
Lightlygreasetwobakingtraysandlinethemwithbakingparchment.
RubtogetherthebutterandflouruntilitresemblesbreadcrumbsAddinthe
sugarandfruit.Combinewell.
Bindtogetherwiththebeateneggandthendripthemilkinlittlebylittletomake
adampmixturewhichwillsticktogether.Acrossthetraydrop12equalmounds
leavingspaceforthemtospread.
SprinkleoverwithDemeraratogivealovelydarkcrunch.
Bakeinthepreheatedovenfor15minutes.
Servewarm.
CharlieGrigg’sEcclesCakes
TheEcclescakeactuallycomesfromanhour’sdriveuptheroadfrom
Yorkshire.Eccles,thetownfromwhichthecakeisoriginatedisfoundin
Lancashire.Thisrich,darktasteisonewhichonegrowsintoIthink,abitlike
coffeeorwhisky!
Forthepastry:
1mixof
Forthefilling:
4oz(120g)currants2oz(60g)butterAfewgratingsofnutmeg
2oz(60g)softdarkbrownsugar1eggwhite
Demerarasugar–fordusting
Preheattheoven220C/425F/gasmark7
Rolloutyourpuffpastrytoarectangleofaround8insx6insTomakeyour
filling,meltthebutterandthrowinthesugarandspices.Leaveboilinggently
foroneminutethenremovefromtheheat.Youarelookingforthecurrantsto
softenandthesyruptobecomeinfusedwiththespices.
Nowrolloutyourpastrythinlyandcutout12x10cm/4inscircleswithacutter.
Inthemiddleofeachpiece,placesomefilling.
Pinchuptheedgesofthepastrytosealthecake.
Turnoverandplacethefastenedsidedownonthebakingtray.
Scorethreesmallcutsinthetopofthepastry.
Paintwitheggwhiteandsprinklewithsugar.
BakeyourEcclesCakesinthepreheatedovenfor15minutesoruntiltheyare
brownedandrisen.
Eatwarm.
Ethel’sCoconutMacaroons
2largeeggwhites
¼teaspooncreamoftartar
3½oz(100g)castersugar
1½oz(30g)groundalmonds1pinchofsalt
1teaspoonvanillaextract(orcoconutessenceifavailable)9oz(250g)shredded
coconutPreheattheovento170ºC/gasmark3/325ºF
Greaseandlineabakingtraywithbakingparchment.
Whisktheeggwhitestoaverylightfroth.Addthecreamoftartar.Mixinthe
sugarateaspoonatatime.Nowwhishthemixtureuntilitmakesveryrigid
peaks.Ifyouhaveanelectricwhiskthiswillsaveyoutheagonyofcook’s
elbow!
Gentlyfoldinthecoconut,almonds,saltandvanillatakingcarenottoknockthe
airoutofthemeringueDrop8equalmoundsontothebakingparchmentand
bakefor20minsuntilpalegolden.
Carson’sSundayAfternoonParkin
7oz.(200g)butter,plusextraforgreasing1largeegg4tbspmilk7oz.(200g)
goldensyrup(lightKaroSyrup)3oz.(85g)treacle(molasses)3oz.(85g)light
softbrownsugar3½oz.(100g)mediumoatmeal9oz.(250g)self-risingflour1
tbspgroundgingerPreheattheovento160C/140Cfan/gas3
Greaseandlinea9ins(22cm)squaretin,bothbaseandinside.
Gentlyheattogetherthesyrup,molasses/treacleandsugar.
Mixtogetherthegingerflourandoatmealthenaddthemtothetreaclemix.
Addinthemilkandthenfinallytheegg.
Pourintoyourtinandleavetobakeforbetween50-60minutes.Thetopwillbe
firmwithaslightcrunch.Useaskewertocheckitiscookedrightthrough.
Whencooledturnoutofthetin.Carefullywrapinfoiltorestitfor3or4days.
Trytoresistthetemptationtoeatthistooquicklyasitgetsstickierandmore
gorgeousthelongeryouleaveit.(Itwillkeepfor2weeksinatin).
Barrow’sLemonBars
Forthebase:6oz(175g)plainflour2oz(50g)groundrice3oz(85g)golden
castersugar5oz(140g)coldbutter,diced1tbspmilkForthelemontopping:
Zest3lemons,plus7floz(200ml)lemonjuice(about4lemons)3eggs7oz
(200g)castersugar1oz(25g)flourIcingsugar,todustPreheatovento
200C/180Cfan/gas6
Line9ins(22cm)squaretinbaseandinsides.
Rubtogetherthegroundrice,flourandbutterthenaddinthesugar.
Pourintoyourtinandpressdowntomakeasolidbase.
Bakefor15minutesuntilacrustisformed.
Removefromtheovenandthenturndownthetemperatureto180C/160C
fan/gas4
Mixtogetherthelemonandtheeggsandwhisktogetherwell.
Addinthesugarandfoldintheflour.
Pourthemixtureoverthebaseandreturntotheoven.
BakeuntilthelemonissetandleavetocoolinthetinDustwithicingsugarand
sliceinto12.
HisLordship’sBramBrack
1lb5oz(550g)driedfruit-sultanas,currantsandraisins4oz(225g)candied
peel,chopped8oz(225g)glacecherries(candiedcherries),halved10floz
(300ml)cold,strong,black"Yorkshire"orothertea150g/5½oz(150g)butter,
slightlysoftened150g/5½oz(150g)soft,darkbrownsugar3largeeggs10oz
(225g)all-purpose/plainflour2tspbakingpowder2tbspdarktreacle/molasses
3floz(100ml)whisky1tspfreshlygroundnutmeg2tsplemonjuice4oz(110g)
groundalmondsPreheattheovento170°C/325°F/Gas3
Greaseandfloura8ins(20cm)roundcaketin,baseandinsides.
Mixtogethertheflour,bakingpowderandspices.
Inanotherbowlcreamtogetherthebutterandsugar.Addintheeggs,mixing
togetheraftereachegg.
Mixintheflourmixathirdatatime,mixingwellinbetween.
Draintheteafromthefruit.Addthefruit,treacle,lemon,nutmeg,whiskyand
nutstothemix.
Pourintothecaketinandbakefor2½hoursorcookedtillgoldenbrownCool
inthetinthenserve(Keepswellinacaketin).
MrBate’sTreacleTart
Ateatimefavoritetouseupallofthosecrustsyouhavecutoff.
1Mixof
1lb(450g)goldensyrup
3oz(85g)freshbreadcrumbs
Agenerouspinchgroundginger
1lemon,zest,finelygratedand2tbspofthejuicePreheattheovento
190C/375F/Gas5.
Greasea9insloosebottomedtarttin.
RolloutyourpastryandlineyourtinLinewithbakingparchmentandfillwith
bakingbeans.Bakeitblindfor15minutesGentlyheatyourgoldensyrup,add
thegingerandstirinyourbreadcrumbs.
Fillthepastrycaseandreturntotheovenfor30minutes.
Servewarmorcold.
Conclusion
Ihopeyouhaveenjoyedyourforayintothehistoricalworldofafternoon
delicacies.I,asanEnglishwoman,woulddearlylovetoseethetradition
becomepopularagain.
Perhapsinthesedayswherewearestartingtobecomemoreawareofastress
levelsandhastethrougheverydaylife,theAfternoonTeadoes,infact,standa
chance.
Howwonderfultothinkthatperhaps,justevenforonedayaweek,womenmay
againbesquirreledtogetheraroundapotofteatosharetalesoftheirweek,and
theirdreams.
Tomymindthatisthestuffwheremagiccanbegin;adeliciousmoment,a
glimpseofrealfemininityastherootofawoman’spower.What’smore...all
withasliceofcake!
That’sitthen.Iamgoingtoleaveyouplayingwithingredientsinyourhead.As
forme,Iamofftotheantiqueshoptoinvestinsomesilversugartongsandthe
veryprettiestcakesliceIcanfind.
Andthen....
Well,it’stimeforteaofcourse!
ElizabethFellow
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Definitions
BainMarie–Thisisatwotieredpotusedforheatingandmeltingingredients
oversteam.Itispossibletomakeaneffectivesubstitutebyplacingabowlovera
saucepansothesteamislockedinsideandgentlywarmsthecontentsofthe
bowl.
Referencesandauthorities:
http://imaginationlane.net/blog/historical-recipes-sandwiches-through-history/-
sandwiches
Disclaimer
TheDowntonAbbeyCookbookcontainssometraditional,somenewandsome
borrowedrecipeswhicharetriedbymyself.Ihavetakeneffortstoconveymy
recipeideascorrectlyandtorevieweachrecipecarefully.Sometimesyoumay
notgetthedesiredresultsduetovariousfactorssuchasqualityofproducts,
variationsiningredients,timetakenincookingandindividualcookingability.
ManyoftherecipeshavebeentakenfromhistoricalbooksandwhilstI,asthe
author,wasclearlynotphysicallyatanEdwardianTeaParty,theseare
traditionalcakesandsandwicheswhicharetruetotheperiods.
TheideaspublishedonDowntonAbbeyCookbookarepurelybasedon
individualopinionofAuthor.Pleaseusethemasareference.
Lastly,theDowntonAbbeyusesthenamesandreferencestothecharacterswith
thankstoITV,butwouldliketostressisinnowayaffiliatedtotheprogramme
orproductionteam.