Baker SPD

46

BAKER MUD HOG™
5 X 4 X 14 IN. - 1750 RPM

Calculating horsepower using efficiency:

Maximum Sphere - 13/32 in.

BHP =

GPM x FT x SG

3960 x Efficiency

kW =

M

3

/hr x M x SG

367 x Efficiency

Cubic Meters per Hour

(M

3

/hr)

T

o

ta

l Diff

erent

ial Head

(F

eet)

Tot

al Dif

ferent

ial Head

(Met

ers)

US Gallons per Minute (GPM)

PUMP CURVES

Baker SPD

20

PRODUCT ILLUSTRATIONS FOR SIZE 5 X 4 X 14 IN.
2.5 IN. CENTRIFUGAL PUMP

3

1

4

4

23

22

24

19

17

9

7

15

20

21

10

12

16

6

7

5

8

11

14

15

13

18

2

25

34

33

31

30

37

26

35

27

38b

38d

47

45

999881

40

41

39

38c

36

29

28

40

41

42

43

32

46

44

38a

PRODUCT ILLUSTRATIONS

Baker SPD

21

PARTS AND WEIGHTS (SIZE 5 X 4 X 14 IN.)

Item

No.

Description

5 x 4 x 14 in.

1

Frame

052136610

Gray Cast Iron

250.0 lb

2

Plastic Plug

WVCCCF118

Plastic

.01 oz

3

Plug for Breather Port

WWWX00011

Carbon Steel

.02 oz

4

Oil Plug

WWWX00012

Carbon Steel

(2 required)

.05 oz

5!!

Outboard Bearing Labyrinth Seal

WVIN00262

Bronze

.80 oz

6

Outboard Bearing Cover

052136910

Gray Cast Iron

3.0 lb

7

Outboard/Inboard Bearing Grease Fitting

WWW00C003

Steel

(2 required)

.10 oz

8

Outboard Bearing Cover Bolt

WWG31D107

Low Alloy Steel

(2 required)

2.0 lb

9!!

Outboard Bearing Housing Seal

WWB254P41

Buna-N

.10 oz

10

Outboard Bearing

WWESK7311

Steel

(2 required)

3.08 lb

11!!

Bearing Lock Washer

WV00W1100

Carbon Steel

.50 oz

12!!

Bearing Lock Nut

WV00N1100

Carbon Steel

.50 oz

13

Outboard Bearing Housing

052136810

Gray Cast Iron

15.0 lb

14

Outboard Bearing Housing Bolt

WWG31H1H7

Low Alloy Steel

(4 required)

.50 oz

15

Outboard Bearing Housing Nut

WWJ31H800

Stainless Steel

(2 required)

.50 oz

16!!

Outboard Bearing Cover Seal

WWB248P41

Buna-N

.01 oz

17

Shaft

052133900

Low Alloy Steel

37.75 lb

18

Coupling End Key

WWW00A004

Low Alloy Steel

2.0 lb

19

Inboard Bearing

WWENT5313

Steel

8.71 lb

20

Inboard Bearing Cover

052136710

Gray Cast Iron

10.00 lb

21!!

Inboard Bearing Cover Gasket

052137400

Fiber

.01 oz

22

Inboard Bearing Cover Bolt

WWG31H1H7

Low Alloy Steel

(2 required)

.50 oz

23

Inboard Bearing Cover Grease Plug

WWWX00011

Carbon Steel

.02 oz

24!!

Inboard Bearing Labyrinth Seal

WVINM0026

Bronze

1.0 lb

25

Jack Bolt

WWG31S28F

Stainless Steel

(2 required)

.35 oz

26!!

Wear Pad Nut

WWJ51H800

Stainless Steel

(4 required)

.05 oz

27

Casing Drain Plug

WWWX00015

Carbon Steel

.15 oz

28!!

Casing

052134210

Gray Cast Iron

170.0 lb

29!!

Wear Pad Stud

WWHS1H28A

Low Alloy Steel

(4 required)

.10 oz

30!!

Wear Pad Gasket

052139001

Fiber

.01 oz

31!!

Wear Pad

052134810

Hard Iron

34.0 lb

32!!

Casing Gasket

052137100

Fiber

.10 oz

33!!

Casing Stud

WWHS1S3HA

Low Alloy Steel

(12 required)

1.0 lb

34!!

Casing Stud Nut

WWJ11S800

Stainless Steel

(12 required)

.10 oz

35

Impeller

05213591X !

Hard Iron

41.0 lb

36!!

Impeller Seal

WWB032V30

Fluoroelastomer

.001 oz

37!!

Shaft Sleeve

052137080

Stainless Steel (Ceramic Coated Material No. 052144280)

2.1 lb

38a -

38d

Mechanical Seal Kit,
(Includes - Pressed Ring Spring, Rotating Element,
Stationary Element and item 47 Roll Pin)

WVBUF9000

2.35 lb

Stainless Steel/Tungston Carbide/Fluoroelastomer

39

Stuffing Box Cover for Mechanical Seal

052136410

Hard Iron

70.0 lb

40

Gland Assembly Bolt

052137280

Stainless Steel

(2 required)

2.0 lb

41

Stuffing Box Cover Bolt

WWG31H187

Low Alloy Steel

(2 required)

1.0 lb

42

Packing, 3 Rings for Mechanical Seal

052141500

Teflon/Graphite

3.0 lb

43

Gland Set

052136500

Stainless Steel

3.0 lb

44!!

Shaft Sleeve Seal

WWB225V40

Fluoroelastomer

.10 oz

45

Name Plate

052141400

Stainless Steel

.10 oz

46

Drive Screws

WWGT06060

Stainless Steel

(4 required)

.01 oz

47

Roll Pin

WWL1040HS

Steel

.01 oz

! Last digit (x) designates Impeller size. See sizing chart on page 11.
!! Refer to pages 12 and 13 for Repair Kit information.

PARTS AND WEIGHTS

O

RD

E

R

IN
G

I

NFOR

MAT

ION

2

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5

General Instructions ------------------------------------------------------------------ 5

Section A: INSTALLATION-------------------------------------------------------- 5

Compatibility ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------5
Location ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------5
Foundation ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------5
Alignment ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------6
Piping---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------7

SECTION B: PREPARATION FOR OPERATION ----------------------------- 8

Preliminary Lubrication ------------------------------------------------------------------------8
Mechanical Seal Pumps ------------------------------------------------------------------------8
Packed Pumps -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------8
Pump Rotation-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------8
Pump Priming -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------8

SECTION C: OPERATION --------------------------------------------------------- 9

Operating Condition Envelope ----------------------------------------------------------------9
Documentation ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------9

Lubrication--------------------------------------------------------------------------------9
Grease Lubrication for Bearings ----------------------------------------------------- 10
Grease Lubrication for Packing ------------------------------------------------------ 10
Water Lubrication for Packing ------------------------------------------------------- 10

SECTION D: MAINTENANCE--------------------------------------------------- 10

Disassembly ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10
Inspection -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11
Assembly--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12

Shaft and Bearing Sub-Assembly---------------------------------------------------- 12
Power Frame Sub-Assembly --------------------------------------------------------- 13
Stuffing Box and Components ------------------------------------------------------- 14
Fluid End Assembly ------------------------------------------------------------------- 15

General Operating and Storage Instructions----------------------------------------------- 15

3

TABLE OF FIGURES

Figure 1: Offset Alignment with a Dial Indicator .......................................... 6

Figure 2: Angular Alignment with a Dial Indicator ....................................... 6

Figure 3: Offset Alignment with a Straight edge ........................................... 7

Figure 4: Angular Alignment with a Straight edge ........................................ 7

Figure 5: Inboard bearing cover with grease fitting ..................................... 10

Figure 6-1 Casing and parts.......................................................................... 22

Figure 6-2: Frame, Stuffing Box Cover, Impeller and parts ........................ 22

Figure 6-3: Frame, Inboard Bearing Housing Cover and parts .................... 23

Figure 6-4: Shaft, Bearings and parts ........................................................... 23

4

TABLE OF TABLES

Table 1: Mud Hog Spare Parts List. ............................................................ 18

Table 2: Mud Hog Repair Kits .................................................................... 21

5

Introduction

This manual contains instructions

for the installation, operation and
maintenance of Baker SPD’s Mud Hog
2.5 Centrifugal Pump. After going
through this manual, if you feel that
some of your questions or situations that
you are dealing with, have not been
addressed, please contact your local
Baker SPD Distributor or Salesman for
further assistance.

Baker SPD’s Mud Hog 2.5 is a

pump designed to replace some older
and existing 2.5” pumps, with a similar
but superior product. We have designed
this pump keeping in mind a longer life,
reliability and easier maintenance. Some
of its outstanding features that contribute
towards its popularity and success are;

1. Pump casing with a replaceable wear

pad

2. Stainless steel shaft sleeves
3. Stainless steel casing nuts
4. Grease lubricated bearings
5. Leakage and contamination

prevention through labyrinth seals

It is very important to closely follow

proper installation, operation and
maintenance guidelines in order to
ensure a smooth and efficient pumping
operation and a longer equipment life.

General Instructions

1. The motor/driver must operate the

pump in a manner that the rotation of
the pump impeller when viewed
from the suction (front) side of the
pump is COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.
The pump must not be operated in

the reverse direction if damage to the
pump is to be avoided.

2. The suction and discharge valves

must not be completely closed when
operating the pump.

3. The packing should be adjusted in a

manner that a small amount of
leakage remains for lubrication and
cooling purposes.

4. For drilling mud operations, care

must be taken to prevent seepage
from the packing to dry out and
coagulate in the areas of the front
seal and the slinger.

5. Do not operate the pump outside its

designed performance envelope.

Section A: INSTALLATION

Compatibility

The Mud Hog 2.5 has been designed

to ensure that it can replace existing
pumps of the same nominal size. To this
end, its outside dimensions are
guaranteed to match up to the existing
bases, piping, couplings etc.

Location

To eliminate the need for priming,

the pump suction should be at a lower
level than the level of the liquid in the
supply tank/reservoir.

Foundation

It is recommended to pour a concrete

foundation on a solid base and it should
be big enough to support the whole
pump unit. The rigidity of the base plate
will play an important role in damping
out structural vibrations so the
foundation must be thick enough to
accomplish that. Refer to Hydraulic
Institute’s Standard ANSI/HI 1.4-2000
for guidelines on this subject. Care must
be taken to level the base plate in a
horizontal position. Also, when the

6

application dictates the use of fabricated
bases, the foundation design must
account for it properly, so that it can
effectively dampen the resulting
resonant vibrations.

Alignment

For any rotating machinery, the

alignment of power transmitting and
power consuming parts is critical for its
safe and long lasting service. Even if the
motor and the pump were aligned
before shipping, it is very important to
check the alignment after installation to
ensure that the arrangement has not
moved during transportation or
handling. We cannot overemphasize
proper alignment since it can mean the
difference between a smooth and long
lasting pump operation as opposed to
high vibrations and even failure of
bearings, coupling, pump or the motor.
It should be noted that one must not try
to align the pump and the motor until
its flange and mounting bolts have been
tightened.

To perform the coupling alignment

with dial indicators, which are the
instruments of choice for such
procedures, the dial indicator is attached
to one coupling half with the indicator
dial button resting on the outside
diameter (OD) of the other coupling half.
This will give the offset misalignment
between the two shafts. In order to find
out the angular misalignment, let the dial
indicator button ride on the face of the
other coupling half, instead of its OD. A
TIR of 0.005” or less is usually
considered acceptable by most
manufacturers. If the TIR is more than
that, it can be adjusted by loosening the
pump or driver mounting bolts, adding
or removing shims accordingly and then

tightening down the bolts again

.

See

Figures 1 & 2 below.

Figure 1: Offset Alignment with a Dial Indicator

Figure 2: Angular Alignment with a Dial
Indicator

For situations where a dial indicator

is not available, one can use a straight
edge to perform a reasonable alignment.
This method works better when the
coupling has a rubber or a flexible drive
element.

To check for offset misalignment,

place the straight edge on the OD of the
couplings. If they are aligned there will
not be any gaps under the straight edge.
A max gap of 1/64” is allowed. This
procedure should be repeated for at least
one more location on the circumference
of the coupling 90 degrees from the first
position.

To check for angular misalignment,

the two coupling mating faces should not
have a variation in the gap, all around
the faces. A maximum variation of 1/64”
is permissible.

7

See figures 3 & 4 below.

Figure 3: Offset Alignment with a Straight edge

Figure 4: Angular Alignment with a Straight
edge

More information on coupling alignment
can be found in the Hydraulic Institute’s
Standard ANSI/HI 1.4-2000.

Piping

It is important that the piping should

line up to the pump without it having to
be drawn closer by tightening the
companion flange bolts. Also, the pump
should not have to support the weight of
the piping. For this to happen, it is better
to have the piping anchored
independently but as close to the pump
as possible. It should also be pointed out
that the piping should not be connected
to the pump until the grout has hardened
and after the motor and pump mounting
bolts have been tightened.

Suction Piping

Suction piping can not only play a

critical role in causing vibration and
cavitation in centrifugal pumps, but can
also be responsible for causing packing

and mechanical seal failures as well as
putting extreme loads on the bearings. It
is therefore very important that the size
of the suction piping be at least the same
or larger than the suction port of the
pump.

To eliminate air pockets in the

suction line, it is beneficial for the
suction line have a gradual slope down
to the supply tank or source.

It is recommended that the flow

through the pump should not be
controlled by adjusting a valve in the
suction line. However, this does not
preclude the use of a suction line shut off
valve to be used when the pump has to
be inspected or removed for
maintenance purposes.

In order to have a relatively

turbulence free flow into the pump, it is
good practice to have a straight length of
pipe, at least twice its diameter in length
e.g. a 6 inch suction pipe should have at
least one foot of straight pipe just before
the pump.

In situations which might require a

flexible hose to be used in the suction
line, it is imperative that such a flexible
hose be of the non-collapsing type, since
it is not uncommon to have suction
pressures which are below atmospheric
pressure. In such a scenario, there is a
real possibility of starving the pump and
thus causing it to overheat.

Discharge Piping

Like the suction piping, a shut off

valve should be used in the discharge
piping as well, to enable the removal of
the pump for maintenance purposes. A
throttle valve can be used in the
discharge line to operate the pump at it is
design point, if the exact operating
conditions are not known.

In case of a closed pressurized loop,

it is necessary to have a check valve

8

between the pump and the throttle valve,
to prevent the product from flowing back
through the pump. In the absence of the
check valve, such a circumstance can
cause the impeller to come loose and
cause damage to the pump and also
result in leakage beneath the shaft sleeve.

SECTION B:
PREPARATION FOR
OPERATION

Before starting the pump, it is good

practice to always go through the
following simple checks;
1. Check for impeller’s free rotation by

turning the shaft by hand

2. Make sure that the suction line and

the pump are full of fluid and that the
suction valve is fully open.

3. Slightly open the discharge valve

and then open it fully once the pump
is running.

Preliminary Lubrication

Our standard pumps come pre

lubricated with grease (oil lubrication is
available as an option). The operators /
customers do not have to worry about
lubricating the pump for the first year of
operation. At that time, the pump can be
lubricated through the outboard and
inboard bearing covers by removing the
plugs and replacing them with the
appropriate lubrication fittings.

Usually, labyrinth seals are provided

at both bearing ends, and they serve to
keep the temperature from rising, by also
acting as vents. But in cases where the
labyrinth seals are not provided, it is
recommended to keep the air vent clean.

Mechanical Seal Pumps

It is vital that these pumps are never

started dry otherwise it will cause
irreparable damage to the seal faces. The

factory installs and adjusts the
mechanical seals before shipping the
pumps. The seal models currently being
provided with the Mud Hog 2.5 do not
require external flush.

Pumps with mechanical seals come

with 3 rings of backup packing which
should be kept completely loose until a
seal failure occurs. Only then should
they be tightened down to prevent
leakage.

Packed Pumps

When starting packed pumps, the

packing should be loose and the packing
gland nuts should only be hand tight.
Once the pump starts running, slowly
tighten the packing down. Make sure
that there is some leakage through the
packing, otherwise it will overheat and
fail.

If outside flushing is required on

either pump models, the flush lines
should be connected and checked for
flow through them, before starting the
pump

Pump Rotation

Before running the pump it is

important to find out the direction of
rotation, since starting the Mud Hog 2.5
in the reverse direction can unscrew its
impeller and thereby cause damage to
the pump and the seal.

The direction of rotation can be

checked in two ways. The motor can be
uncoupled from the pump and then
started to check its direction of rotation.
Or a person can start and immediately
shut off the coupled motor and pump
assembly and have someone else watch
as the shafting just turns over.

Pump Priming

To prevent damage to the

mechanical seals or packing, there must

9

be liquid in the suction line and the
casing, before the pump is started. Fill
the suction line with the liquid and vent
out any air that might be present in the
line. The discharge valve should be
barely open when the pump is started
and only after the flow and pressure
have stabilized that it should be adjusted
to the required flow conditions. If the
pressure fails to build, close the
discharge valve and then reopen it to
build discharge pressure. If flow
difficulties continue, it may be an
indication of improper installation or
pump selection.

Operators must not run the pump

with the suction valve closed under any
circumstances, as it will immediately
overheat the pump and cause major
damage to various components.

Also, running the pump with the

discharge valve closed should be
allowed only for short durations as the
energy being imparted to the pumped
product by the impeller, will raise the
temperature. If for some reason there is a
need to keep the discharge valve closed
for an extended length of time, then it is
recommended to run a small (

Ø

0.25”or

Ø

0.50”) line, starting between the pump

and the discharge valve and going back
to the fluid supply tank.

SECTION C: OPERATION

Operating Condition Envelope

This section only applies to pumps

which do not have any external
insulation and are exposed to the room
temperature.

The maximum safe working pressure

for cast iron is 175 psig at 150°F or 150
psig at 250°F. The conditions in between
can be accordingly calculated. Whenever
a high temperature (150°F plus) fluid is
being pumped, cooling water should be

passed not only through the lantern ring
but also over the exposed shaft, so as to
dissipate the heat being generated at the
labyrinth seal or lip seal and the bearings.

Documentation

It is always helpful to maintain a

documentation history of the pump as it
can improve our response time to help
you. To this end, we provide a
nameplate on each pump frame which
contains some information which can
help us identify the pump quickly. But in
addition to that, it would be helpful to
keep a record of the following
information;
1. Motor horsepower
2. Operation frequency
3. Maintenance records and pertinent

information on any replacement parts.

Lubrication

Your Mud Hog comes lubricated

with grease when it is shipped from the
factory and it does not need to be
lubricated more than once per year. The
recommended grease is Lubri Plate
1200-2. When using different types of
grease, care should be taken to use only
those types of grease which are well
suited to operate with each other.

Oil Lubrication for Bearings

Oil lubrication for bearings is

available as an option but the pumps
must be mounted in a horizontal position
for oil lubricated pumps to work. This
option is typically exercised when it is
desired to lower the bearing temperature
and hence reduce its wear.

It is recommended to use 10W30-

non detergent motor oil. The oil can be
filled through the hole provided on the
top of the bearing frame. After removing
the plug provided in the side of the
frame, oil should be added from the top

10

until it starts to flow out from the side
hole. This will indicate that the level of
oil is correct. Adding more oil than
recommended can actually be harmful to
the pump.

Grease Lubrication for Bearings

The outboard and inboard bearing

covers are provided with a grease fitting.
It is recommended to add five shots of
grease through the grease port at least
once every six months, after the first
year of service.

Figure 5: Outboard and Inboard bearing covers
with grease fitting

Grease Lubrication for Packing

For packed pumps, the stuffing box

cover comes with a drilled hole for
lubricating the packing rings. It is fitted
with a grease fitting. It is recommended
to lubricate the packing rings at least
once a day. Baker SPD offers an
optional self lubricating mechanism

which only needs to be filled from time
to time.

Grease should be added while

turning the shaft. A good indication of
the sufficient grease in the packing is
that it will start to come out around the
packing gland. If the packing rings are
worn and/or the leakage is deemed
excessive, a more viscous variety of
grease like the ones used in water pumps
should be used rather than the general
purpose grease.

Water Lubrication for Packing

It is recommended that whenever

drilling mud is being pumped, water
should be fed to the packing through the
lantern ring, not only for lubrication
purposes but also to prevent fluid being
pumped from coming through the
packing rings. Such fluids can reduce the
life of the packing as well as cause
abrasion of the shaft.

SECTION D:
MAINTENANCE

Refer to Figure 6-1 through 6-4.

Disassembly

1. Remove the packing gland

halves (43) by loosening the
packing gland nuts (41) and then
swinging the packing gland bolts
(40) to the side.

2. Remove the casing (28) after

removing the casing nuts (34).

3. Impeller (35) can now be

removed as follows;
Restrain the shaft rotation near
the coupling end and then jam a
block of wood against the
impeller vanes. Strike the block
of wood with a hammer to turn
the impeller in the counter
clockwise direction, when

11

looking at the pump from the
suction end.

4. The stuffing box cover (39) does

not need to come off if the
mechanical seal does not warrant
a replacement. However, if it
does, then remove the stuffing
box cover bolts (41) and push out
the stuffing box cover (39) by
hitting on its back side. The
packing rings (42) can now be
easily removed from the stuffing
box bore.

5. The next step is to slide off the

shaft sleeve (37), with the help of
a wedge, if needed, and taking
care not to damage or drop the
seal, especially if the seal does
not need to be replaced. If the
only repair being done is the
mechanical seal replacement then
this is as far as you need to go in
disassembling the pump.

6. The two bolts (14) holding the

outboard bearing housing (13) to
the frame (1) should be removed.

7. The shaft/bearing assembly can

now be removed from the frame.

8. Take out the outboard bearing

housing cover (6).

9. The locknut (12) and the lock

washer (11) can be removed by
bending the tab backwards on the
lock washer.

10. Remove the Outboard bearing

Housing (13). The outboard
bearings (10) can be pressed off
the shaft (17) by hitting the key
end of the shaft against a wooden
floorboard. Similarly, the
inboard bearing (19) can be
forced off the shaft (17) by
hitting its inner race with a pipe
of an appropriate size. Applying
force against the outer race of the
bearings should be avoided.

11. The inboard bearing labyrinth

seal (24) and the inboard bearing
cover grease plug (23) can be
now removed.

Inspection

In general, whenever disassembling a
pump, always clean the retaining rings,
grooves for the O-rings, surfaces of the
gaskets, threads and bearings.

Impeller: The impeller should be
checked for excessive erosion both on
the front and back vanes and/or vane
breakage and replaced if any of the
mentioned conditions exist.

Shaft and Shaft Sleeve: A maximum
run out of 0.002 is allowed on the shaft
and the shaft threads must be in a good
condition. The bearing seating surfaces
have to be smooth and free of scratches.
If any of the above do not seem to be in
good condition, the shaft should be
replaced. Similarly the surface of the
sleeve should be checked for grooves
and be replaced if necessary.

Mechanical Seal: To prevent
excessive leakage, the seal faces, gaskets
and shaft sealing members must be
checked for their condition and replaced
if necessary.

Ball Bearings: It is important that the
bearings rolling elements be smooth and
not worn out. If the bearings make noise
when rotated, it is time to replace them.
New bearings should not be unpacked
until it is time to install them.

Gaskets & O-Rings: Short of
unavailability of new ones, it is always
good practice to replace all the gaskets
and O-rings during disassembly.

12

Assembly

Refer to Figure 6-1 through 6-4.

Shaft and Bearing Sub-Assembly

Note: Installation of the bearings with a
press is acceptable in lieu of heating the
bearings.

1. Pack the inboard bearing (19)

and both outboard bearings (10)
with Chevron Duralith EP No. 2
or Lubriplate 1200-2 grease.
Heat the inboard bearing (19)
and the two outboard bearings
(10) to 240° F max.

2. After heating the inboard

bearing (19), position it to be
installed. Check to see if the
marking "5313" is on the bearing.
Slip the bearing onto the impeller
end of the shaft (17). Shoulder
the bearing.

3. Install the outboard bearing

housing seal (9) onto the
outboard bearing housing (13).
Slide the outboard bearing
housing (13) onto the shaft (17)
from the coupling end of the
shaft. The flanged end of the
outboard bearing housing (13)
should face the coupling end of
the shaft (17).

4. After heating one of the outboard

bearings (10), position it to be
installed. Slip the bearing onto
the shaft (17) with the "7311"
marking facing the coupling end
of the shaft (17). Shoulder the
bearing.

5. After heating the other outboard

bearing (10), position it to be
installed. Slip the bearing onto
the shaft (17) with the "7311"
marking on this bearing, facing
the “7311” marking on the

previously installed bearing and
shoulder the bearing. This
bearing arrangement is called a
"Back-to-back" installation.

6. Check for proper outboard

bearing (10) installation. The
"7311" markings on both
outboard bearings (10) should be
facing each other. The balls and
races on both bearings should be
clearly visible.

7. Install the bearing lock washer

(11) onto the shaft (17) with the
tabs towards the driven end of
the shaft (17).

8. Install the bearing locknut (12)

onto the shaft (17) with the bevel
towards the bearing lock washer
(11). Tighten the bearing locknut
(12) with 250 ft/lb of torque.
Bend one tab of the bearing lock
washer (11) to engage one cutout
of the bearing locknut (12).
Note: If the tab on the bearing
lock washer (11) does not align
with a slot directly, loosen the
bearing locknut (12) until the
closest tab/slot combination is
aligned.

9. Lightly grease the outboard

bearing (10) outside diameters.
Shoulder the outboard bearing
housing (13) to the outboard
bearings (10).

10. Install the outboard / inboard

bearing grease fitting (7) into the
outboard bearing cover (6) with
the nipple facing towards the
outside of the outboard bearing
cover (6). Press the outboard
bearing labyrinth seal (5) with
drain cutout down or rotated
180° from the 1/4" NPT hole in
the outboard bearing cover (6)
and with the drain on the inside
of the outboard bearing cover (6).

13

11. Apply grease to the shaft (17).

Assemble the outboard bearing
cover (6) to the outboard bearing
housing (13). Install the outboard
bearing cover bolts (8) and
torque to 20 ft-lbs.
Caution: Do not over tighten the
outboard bearing cover bolts (8).
There will be a gap between the
outboard bearing housing (13)
and the outboard bearing cover
(6) with proper installation (.015-
.030 in.).

Power Frame Sub-Assembly

1. Install the outboard / inboard

bearing grease fitting (7) into the
inboard bearing housing (20).
Press the inboard bearing
labyrinth seal (24) with drain
cutout down, 180° from the cast
Baker SPD logo and to the inside,
into the inboard bearing housing
(20). Install the inboard bearing
cover grease plug (23) into the
inboard bearing housing (20).
Place the inboard bearing cover
gasket (21) onto the inboard
bearing cover (20)

2. Install the inboard bearing cover

(20) into the frame (1) with the
cast Baker SPD logo up. Install
the inboard bearing cover bolts
(22) into the frame (1). Stop
when two threads of each bolt are
still exposed.
Note: Do not tighten the bolts at
this time.

3. Lightly grease the outboard

bearing housing bore and inboard
bearing bores in the frame (1).
Install the 'shaft / bearing sub-
assembly' from the previous
section into the frame (1). Leave

1/4" between the outboard
bearing housing (13) flange and
the frame (1).

4. Install two outboard bearing

housing nuts (15) onto two
outboard bearing housing bolts
(14). Thread the outboard
bearing housing bolts (14) /
outboard bearing housing nuts
(15) into the outboard bearing
housing (13) and hand tighten.
Thread two outboard bearing
housing bolts (14) through the
outboard bearing housing (13)
and into the frame (1) and hand
tighten.

5. Torque the inboard bearing

cover bolts (22) to 20 ft-lbs.
Note: There will be a gap
between the inboard bearing
cover (20) and the frame (1) after
proper installation (.015-.030)

6. Install two oil plugs (4), the plug

for the breather port (3), and the
plastic plug (2) into the frame (1).
Install the jack bolts (25) into the
frame (1).

14

Stuffing Box and Components

Mechanical Seal Configuration

1. Install the roll pin (47) into the

stuffing box cover (39) from the
impeller side.

2. Install the stationary element

(38d) into the stuffing box cover
(39). Align the slot on the
stationary element (38d) with the
roll pin (47). Bottom the
stationary element (38d).
Caution: Do not scratch or
damage stationary element (38d)
sealing surface; keep the sealing
surface clean.

3. Grease the 3-ring packing set

(42). Install the 3-ring packing
set (42) and the shaft sleeve (37)
into the stuffing box cover (39)
bore by installing each of the
three rings with the skive 180°
apart.

4. Install the gland assembly bolts

(40) into the stuffing box cover
(39) and torque to 20 ft-lbs.

Packing Ring Configuration

1. The packing rings (42) will

usually be either of the Teflon or
King type.

2. Make sure that the shaft sleeve

OD and the stuffing box cover ID
are clean, smooth and free of any
burrs and scratches.

3. Grease should be applied to all

the packing rings.

4. Insert three packing rings, taking

care to align skives in the rings
180 degree apart and the skive on
the first ring on the bottom side.
In case of King packing, install
the rings such that their lips are

facing the suction side of the
pump.

5. The lantern ring should be

installed next, making sure that
the split in the lantern ring is
oriented vertically.

6. The remaining two rings should

now be installed such that the
skive in the last ring comes on
the bottom side. However, in
case of King Packing, the final
King ring should be mounted
such that the lip is facing the
coupling end and it’s skive at the
top. The last square ring of
packing can then be installed
with the skive pointing
downwards.

7. The packing gland halves (43)

should now be put it place and
pressed in slightly by tightening
the gland assembly bolts (40).
Note: Since packing can burn
easily if it is too tight around the
rotating element, so once the
packing has been pushed and
seated in, the gland assembly
bolts (40) can be loosened and
then hand tightened only. This is
the recommended condition to
start the pump in. Once the pump
has been running for a little while,
one should go back in and tighten
the gland assembly bolts (40) so
that there is only 10-15 drops of
leakage per minute.

15

Fluid End Assembly

1. Slip shaft sleeve seal (44) onto

the shaft (17) and shoulder.

2. Coat the stuffing box bore in the

frame (1) with Baker Seal
compound. Install the stuffing
box cover (39) into the frame (1)
with the word 'Top' towards the
lifting eye or up. Install the
stuffing box cover bolts (41) and
fully tighten to 50 ft-lbs.

3. Apply a coat of grease to the

shaft sleeve (37), to the inside of
the rubber bellows and to the
sealing face of the rotating
element (38c). Slip the rotating
element (38c) onto the shaft
sleeve (37) and contact the
stationary ring (38d). Slip the
spring (38b) onto the shaft sleeve
(37). Install the pressed ring
(38a) onto the spring (38b).

4. Grease the impeller seal groove

on the impeller (35). Place the
impeller seal (36) into the
impeller groove in the impeller
(35). Screw the impeller (35)
onto the shaft (17) and torque to
a minimum of 160 ft-lb.
Note: Align the spring (38b) on
the rotating element (38c) and
the impeller (35).

5. Install one gland set (43). Snug

the gland set (43) against the 3-
ring packing (42) and back off to
a hand tight condition.

6. Set the clearance between the

stuffing box cover (39) and the
impeller (35) to 0.070" – 0.075”
by adjusting the outboard
bearing housing bolts (14).
Tighten the outboard bearing
housing nuts (15).

Caution: ensure that the impeller
turns freely. Torque the
remaining two outboard bearing
bolts (14) to 20 ft-lbs.

7. Note: This step not required with

3 X 2 casings. Install wear pad
studs (29) into the wear pad (31).
Slip wear pad gasket (30) onto
wear pad (31). Install wear pad
(31) into the casing (28). Install
the wear pad nuts (26) onto the
wear pad studs (29) and torque to
20 ft-lbs.

8. Install the casing studs (33) into

casing (28). Install the casing
gasket (32) onto the stuffing box
cover (39). Apply Baker Seal
compound to the two locating
surfaces on the stuffing box cover
(39). Install the casing (28) onto
the stuffing box cover (39).
Install casing stud nuts (34) onto
the casing studs (33) and evenly
torque to 140 ft-lb.

9. Install casing drain plug (27)

into the casing (28).

General Operating and Storage
Instructions

Some of the important factors to watch
for, while operating a pump, are;

1. The packing should not be over

tightened as it will become hard
and brittle and will fail to
perform its function. But it is
also important, especially when a
water flush system is being
employed to lubricate the
packing rings, that rings be not
too loose. That can result in flush
water seeping into the drilling
mud and changing its density.
This situation can also arise due
to a gap between the shaft and
the packing, which results due to
the whirling of the shaft about its