PULLED WARPS by GAIL JEWELL
Distributed By Bead-Patterns.com Copyrighted 2002
I use fishing line that is a MONO-FILAMENT line for the warps(the lines placed
on the loom) to remove the possibility of splitting the warps while weaving. If you
are adventuresome and insist on using a multi-filament thread for the warps you
will still be able to pull most of the warps saving yourself a lot of weaving to finish
your work. Check out FREE item #4476 on this site for hints on working with
this line.
You have many choices as to the weight of the fishing line so which one will
depend on the size beads you are using and how stiff you want the end product.
The heavier the line the stiffer the end result and the more visible the warps will
be. Experimenting with a few small pieces will tell you what your preferences are
and save you the possibility of disappointments on larger pieces . While I use
fishing line for the wefts (the line that you put the beads on) also, you can use your
favorite thread.
If your loom is equipped with permanent pegs for the warps you will have to
replace the pegs on at least one end with REMOVABLE SCREWS so you can take
the completed piece off the loom WITHOUT CUTTING THE WARPS.
I replaced the pegs on my wood loom with two eye-screws on each side large
enough to thread a piece of wood dowel thru to hold the warps. When I m thru
weaving I just pull the dowels out to remove the work.
This method leaves the warps nice and straight and easier to keep in order.
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PULLED WARPS by GAIL JEWELL
My favorite thing to do is remove the spring that separates the warps and replace it
with thin  thread-all ( a long piece of threaded metal available at any hardware
store). I install the thread-all in two long shank eye-screws in the same place as the
springs were. THIS METHOD ONLY WORKS ON ADJUSTABLE LOOMS!
Since the warps can not slide off the thread-all as they do the wood dowel, you
must be able to loosen the work enough to get it off the thread-all.
Be sure that you use eye-screws with a long enough shank so that you have room
to run a spool of you favorite thread between the dowel or the thread-all and the
loom. Since I use fishing line for the wefts also, I take the amount of line I need
off the spool and coil it up so it will pass thru the narrow space in order to warp the
loom. I like this method the best because it leaves the shortest loops to get rid of.
Before removing the finished work from the loom, I lay a piece of highly visibly
colored thread thru the loops of the warps on both sides so that if I make a mistake
in the order that I pull the loops I can see where the loop went to and correct it.
Place the loomed work with it s multiple loops on a flat surface to work so that you
can keep the tension of the warps even preventing  rippling of the work.
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PULLED WARPS by GAIL JEWELL
As you pull the loops , the one you are working with will get longer and longer.
Continue in this manner, alternating the side that you pull the loops on and making
sure that you pull the side of the loop that is towards the one that just disappeared.
Sooner or later you will probably pull the wrong side and you will see what the
contrasting thread is for. When you have all the warps pulled , you will have only
the starting and the ending two lines to weave in (One of them will be
vvveeerrryyy long, cut it off to a manageable length). Count them& & & & .only
2 warps to weave in !! Ain t life grand!! Oh yes, now you can pull the contrasting
threads out. Don t worry, you ll get the hang of it.
Questions? Contact me : [e-mail]