Blue, aqua, and green enamel

fan out in this colorful pendant.

by Linda Bernstein

olor accomplishes amazing things. It can alter moods, change behaviors, and

cause chemical levels in the brain to shift. Certain colors have even been

found to speed up human metabolism, increase respiration rate, and raise

blood pressure! Color surrounds us, and artists, of course, pay especially close
attention to this phenomenon.

A r t J e w e l r y • S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 5

1

enamel

metal clay

intermediate

Peacock

cloisonné

C

[1] Design the pendant

.

Determine the shape, design,

and number of cells your pendant will have and make a
drawing of it to scale. Choose the colors you’ll use and
assign each color a number. Write a number on each
cell in the drawing for color reference.

[2] Roll the clay and cut out the pendant’s shape.
Roll out 16–20g of metal clay to a 6-card thickness on
parchment paper. Cut out your pendant shape with a
lightly oiled needle tool or craft knife. Remove the
excess clay and store it in an airtight container.

Make a hole. Use a cocktail straw to punch a hole in
the top of your pendant. Make the hole large enough to
accommodate a jump ring, and remember to account
for shrinkage during firing.

[3] Create cells. Add lines of syringe clay to the
pendant shape to form the cells. Add a line of syringe
clay to the perimeter of the piece if you want the cells
fully enclosed, as shown in the piece on page 1; or you
may leave the edges open, as shown in the process
photos. Dry the piece completely.

Refine and finish. Refine the edges of the bone-dry
pendant using your favorite sanding techniques. The
pendant shown was sanded with an emery board.

Fire. Fire the piece according to the metal-clay
manufacturer’s instructions.

Polish. Once cooled, burnish the piece with a stainless-
steel or brass brush to remove the white appearance
from firing. Then, polish it in a tumbler with steel shot
and burnishing compound for about 30 minutes.

Preheat the kiln. Remove the kiln shelf and preheat
the kiln to 1550°F (843°C).

[4] Prepare the enamel. Put 1 teaspoon (4.9mL) of
each enamel color into small individual containers, such
as plastic bottle caps or small plastic cups. Fill the
containers with water (distilled, if possible) and then
carefully pour out the water. The powder should stick
to the bottom of the containers.

A r t J e w e l r y • S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 5

2

2

3

1

The colors in this cloisonné pendant closely resemble the lush collage of hues displayed by

a peacock parading before a peahen. The coloration in peacock feathers is not produced by
pigments, but by tiny crystal-like structures that reflect light.

Serendipitously, cloisonné—a member of the enameling family—employs a similar

technique. Powdered crystalline glass is placed in metal cells and fired, creating a stunning
play of light on the finished piece of jewelry.

Cloisonné can be done using traditional metalsmithing techniques by soldering wire to

sheet metal to create cells. Metal clay makes this process time-efficient by using metal-clay
syringe to “draw” cells onto a piece of clay. Glass enamel is then applied in layers and fired
repeatedly for a brilliantly colored pendant.

5

4

[5] Apply the first enamel layer. The enamel colors
should be damp when applied. Using a small
paintbrush, apply one color in a thin layer to the
appropriately numbered cells. Repeat this step for the
other colors until all the cells are coated with one layer
of enamel.

Fire. Place the pendant on the cool kiln shelf. Use long
tongs and/or heat-resistant gloves to carefully place the
shelf and pendant inside the preheated kiln. Fire the
first enamel layer for 1 minute. Carefully remove the
shelf and pendant from the kiln and let the pendant
cool completely. Leave the kiln on.

[6] File the enamel. Hold the pendant under water
and use a 150-grit alundum stone to file the enamel.
Rub the enamel in each cell vigorously and then move
on to the next cell. Wash the pendant with soap and
water, rinse it thoroughly, and then dry it with a cloth
or towel.

Repeat the process. Repeat the enamel application,
firing, and filing steps until your piece has the color-
intensity you desire and the cells are completely filled
with enamel. Remember, this must be done in thin
layers or your piece may have air bubbles and will not
be a success.

Final filing. File the enamel surfaces under water for
the final time using a 220-grit alundum stone. Wash,
rinse, and dry the piece thoroughly.

Final firing. Fire the pendant one last time for
1 minute. Let it cool.

[7] Attach the pendant to a chain. Attach a jump
ring to the hole in the top of your pendant. Slide a
chain through the ring, and you’re finished.

Z

A r t J e w e l r y • S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 5

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■

Metal clay, 16–20g

■

Metal-clay syringe

■

Glass enamel powder:
colors of your choice,
1 teaspoon (4.9mL) each

■

Jump ring

■

Chain

■

Flux or clear enamel
(optional)

tools & supplies

■

Heavy plastic work surface

■

Acrylic roller

■

Parchment paper

■

Playing cards

■

Olive oil

■

Needle tool or craft knife

■

Cocktail straw

■

Emery boards, various grits
(or sanding materials of
your choice)

■

Kiln, kiln shelf

■

Stainless-steel or brass
brush

■

Tumbler with steel shot
and burnishing compound

■

Distilled water

■

Small container for each
enamel color (plastic bottle
caps or small cups)

■

Small paintbrush

■

Long tongs and/or heat-
resistant gloves

■

Alundum stones, 150- and
220-grit

resources

■

PMC+® clay, PMC+ syringe
(various suppliers, visit
www.pmcguild.com)

■

Glass enamel powders
(medium temperature):
transparent green, blue,
and black (Thompson
Enamel: 859.291.3800;
www.thompson
enamel.com)

materials

6

7

If you would like to use red
or orange enamel, you will
need to apply a layer of flux
or clear enamel first. Red and
orange colors burn out easily,
and flux or clear enamel acts
as a barrier to burnout. Once
you have applied, fired, and
cooled the preliminary layer,
follow the steps in the article
to apply the color in layers.

on using
bright enamels

tip

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