Easy,
eclectic style
Add an unusual vintage bead to your repertoire
by Judy Lapotko
ail head beads are pressed glass,
faceted sequin-like embellishments
Nthat were sewn on mourning
clothing to add subtle interest during the
Victorian era. They continued to be used
in fashion until the 1920s. Today they
can add an even more interesting
element  and find a whole new life  in
a necklace or bracelet. Known as create an unusual look and feel. The the
 French Jet, they were made of black necklace shown here uses a repeating
glass in Bohemia (Czech Republic). pattern that I ve alternately reversed.
They have a flat back and an irregularly This gives the sense of eclectic
domed top, which led to the term  nail randomness with an underlying order.
head. While some nail heads are plain Depending on the outfit, I wear my
black, many have a permanent coated necklace as a long single strand or crimp and a few beads. Tighten the wire
finish that gives them a green, blue, or double it. until it forms a small loop around the
purple iridescence. clasp ring, then crimp the crimp bead
In 1861, when Queen Victoria s (see  Basics in online content). Trim
stepbystep
husband Albert died, she went into the wire tail.
permanent mourning and started an This necklace consists of four pattern Snug up all the beads on the wire,
international fashion trend for mourners repeats from disk to disk, alternately remove the tape, and repeat step 6 at
by having all her black clothing embel- reversed. You may prefer to establish this end. Make sure no wire shows
lished with real jet beads (made of your own pattern repeat on a bead between beads before you crimp. w
lignite). By 1880, demand for jet had design board before stringing.
grown to such a level that genuine jet, Tape one end of the beading wire to Contact Judy in care of Bead&Button.
which was mined primarily in Whitby, prevent the beads from falling off.
England, became very scarce. The result String the following pattern: disk,
materials
was the development of faux jet in Bali spacer, clay spacer, 2 nail heads,
Bohemia for the French fashion industry. metal accent bead, 6 nail heads, Bali " 128 4mm Nail heads
 French Jet beads, as they were called spacer, glass bead, Bali spacer, 3 nail " 12 10-12mm Off-round vintage or new red
were made of black glass. The nail head heads, Bali spacer, glass bead, Bali glass beads
variety with its flat back was sewn spacer, 6 nail heads, Bali spacer, clay " 8 7mm Metal accent beads (these
directly onto garments. These tiny, spacer, Bali spacer 6 nail heads, Bali polyhedrons are from Nigeria)
turn-of-the-century jewels were spacer, glass bead, Bali spacer, 6 nail " 4 11 x 7mm Silver disk beads
rediscovered during the last 20 years in heads, metal accent bead, 3 nail heads, " 40 3 x 5mm Bali spacer beads
old warehouses and factories that were clay spacer, Bali spacer, disk. " 12 4mm Clay spacer beads, brick red
bought out in France. Today, you can String the same pattern but in " 2 Silver crimp beads, tube style preferred
find nail head and other French Jet reverse order. Omit the first disk bead. " 40 in. (1m) Flexible beading wire, .014-.015
beads (cane, tooth, diamond, and leaf String the pattern in the same order " 1 S-hook clasp with 2 soldered rings
shapes) at bead shops that carry vintage as step 2, omitting the first disk. Tools: diagonal wire cutter, crimping pliers;
beads and online at joolsupplies.com String as in step 3, omitting the first optional bead design board
and bagladybeads.com. and last disk.
I like to combine them with oxidized String a crimp, go through one of
metal and other vintage glass beads to the rings on the clasp and back through
2 beadandbutton.com
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