pg012

Padding up the stand

Stends ere constructed to body measjrements. not garment sizes. Garments madę trem woven fabres must be cut larger tnan the body to permit comfortable mcvement. Al l©w for this dfference by paddng up the stano to the size reou -ed.

In mass oroduetton. standard size dress stands are padded up to include both tołerance *'cr body movement and extra desgn ease' where reguired. Somc largo ctothmg łirms nave stands constructed to include tolerances to their own spccificatioo.

Indnidual desgners and smali compenies use standard size stands and pad th©m up as needed Some coutuners have specal stands madę for important ęlionts wt\*h e im nates the need for fittings.

The arrount of tołerance needed for body movement depends on tho typo of garmont and the degree of 'fit' needed to create the regu-rec sihouette Work clothes demand mero 'ease' than strapiess even.ng dresses. bot both must be comfo-tabte In adddon to th s is 'designer ease'. the often considerable amount of extra fabric needed to achieve the 'iook'. As a guide, pad up the stand to allow for body movement and include tne designer ease in the modehing. The amoont needeo will become ap<Mreni in the Iook of the garment during modeli ng and depends on knowlodge and enperence of mterpretmg cesigns

For standard measurements allow the followmg merements wtich rema n constant for all sizes whether mereasing or decreasmg

Skirt and wouser waist: Icm (W) Dress wmst    Susi lOcmtd*) Hips: 5cm

I2"> Across back t 6cm ') Across chest 0 6cm(%^_| Bicep 5cm (2*> Elbow: &cm<2'> Knee 6cm (2V4'ł

lal Uia ttrp* ot łhaat waddmg to ineraaae tna o.-ł'»n ti;« of tn« want and nip* For tha bu»t contowr* cut thmnar layars to dHpront »>/•» and layar ona ovar anoihar Pio tha firw pieca and the remamirg layer* vy.:l adna>« 'O •ach othei. Covor with a pcce ot li-jhtwa-ght calico wh.ch wv* ttraecfi to tha bwat thapa

iC) To rade the łhouldar tav*ł u»a a inojldar pad or layers ot waddmg To rapontion the waiat and hiplirat. Fili in th# holłow gap in tha stand waiati.ne. meajuro the correct napę to back walu ddtanca and tapa tha naw waialline. Tha hip leve will move up or down accordmgty Thin out tha wadding at uppar and lowar edfloi.

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