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Materials

Outer fabric - Use woollen cloth. A firm Melton will make a warm gown, but for a man's gown with heavy pleats, finer cloths can be used interlined with blanket or canvas. The woman's later fitted gown (Fig 28) needs a lighter woollen cloth. Use worsted for a lighter gown.

Lining - Ali gowns should be lined. Use soft woollen cloth, worsted, or linen; or silk for a grand gown. Linings may be visible and a contrasting colour can be effective. Fur linings were worn for warmth by both men and women: for economy, linę the gown with blanket and edge it with fur (Materials, p. 65; Methods, p. 53).

Women's gowns in the 15th century show turned-out collars and cuffs of fur or contrasting fabric. They can be a continuation of the lining, or separate facings in a different materiał.

Quantities, using 140-160 cm wide mateńal -A mank medium-length or short gown, or a long gown in plain style, will need twice the garment length (adding a hem allowance), plus the sleeve length. Smali sleeves may come out of the garment length. This will give a total hem of about 3 m.

A woman's gown with a hem of over 4 m will take three times the garment length, plus sleeve length. A wide gown of 6 m hem will take four times the length though the sleeves will probably come out of this. Add generous hem allowances.

If the materiał has a nap or one way pattern, you must allow enough to cut all pattern pieces in the same direction.

Men's gowns

16. 1460-65, French

Chamberlain or steward in a knee length gown which is edged and probably lined with fur. The gown has the fashionable structured look to the pleating, which is stitched in place. The doublet collar shows at the neck. The pleated sleeve heads are probably supported by padded doublet sleeves. He has long pointed toes, and wears an 'acorn' cap. (Histoire de Helayne, Bibliotheque Royale, Brussels, MS 9967).

17. 1490, English

Prosperous merchant in a conservative gown, without much fullness in the body or sleeves, edged and probably lined with fur. The doublet collar and sleeves are visible. Notę the round-toed shoes of the late 15th century. The liripipe hanging over his shoulder probably supports a chaperon. He carries a large purse and a rosary on his belt.

(Thomas Andrewe, brass, Charwelton church, Northamptonshire).

Pleated gowns

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