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Buttons and buttonholes 19    ,

19.    Bali buttons of cloth

The finished button may be from 6 to 15 mm in diameter; anything larger needs too big a buttonhole. Work a few samples first. Use the garment fabric. Most wools are suitable, but for heavy or bulky cloth make fiat buttons (Fig 20). Light fabric or silk may need padding with a pellet of cotton wooi.

Make each button from a circle of cloth, 2.5 to 6 cm in diameter, using one circle as a pattern to ensure they are all the same size. Use a strong topstitching or buttonhole thread and sew each button on as you complete it.

a.    Turn in the edge of the circle, a little at a time, working long stitches (8 to 10 in all) through the folded edge, drawing them up a little as you go. Puli them up tightly, pushing the raw edges to the inside and working the button between your fingers to form it.

b.    Make a few tight stitches through the back to secure the gathered edge.

c.    Sew the button to the edge of the garment, whipping round the stitches to make a shank.

20.    Fiat buttons of cloth

Use one of these for large buttons on cloaks, or as an alternative to bali buttons.

a.    Blanket stitch together two or three circles of thick cloth.

b.    For fine linen or silk, gather the folded edge of a circle and draw it up tightly. Flatten it out and backstitch round the edge to stiffen it (back view).

c.    Gather and draw up a circle of cloth round a disc of wood or a plastic button. Useful for strong cloak buttons, also suitable for 15th-century doublet sleeves if madę of linen over a smali button.

21.    Buttonholes

These were worked very close to the edge and at right angles to it.

a.    Buttonholes on a narrow facing stitched to the inside of the garment, or they can be worked through a lined edge. Trim the seam allowances well to reduce the bulk. Space the buttonholes from 1 to 3 cm (maximum) apart. You can reinforce the edge by sewing on a tiny braid.

b.    Working the buttonhole. Outline it in stab stitch before cutting the slit. Work the sides in buttonhole stitch, as shown, and oversew a few stitches round each end.

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