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12. Side seams and main vertical darts

Aim to get a close fit round the hips and ribcage, while letting the toile skim the waist. If horizontal wrinkles form round the waist the toile has been pulled too tight.

At waist level, move in the pins slightly at the sides. Still at waist level, pinch the surplus materiał on the Centre Back linę and pin it, then do the same on the Centre Front linę. Work down from the waist, pinning the two side seams and the two vertical darts on the Centre Front and Centre Back lines to fit over the hips. Both darts will usually taper to nothing over the hips.

Now work up from the waist, again pinning the side seams and Centre Front and Centre Back darts. The side seams should fit closely round the lower ribcage: stop pinning when you reach bust level.

The length of the vertical darts will depend on the model's figurę. If she has a larger bust than hip size, both darts will taper to nothing below the level of the bust. For a model with smali breasts, the Centre Front dart may continue right up the chest to the neck. For a fuli bottom the Centre Back dart may continue right up to the neck, engulfing the smali dart already formed. In this case you will have to adjust the back shoulders, neckline and armhole markings.

13. Front - shoulders and bust shaping

During pinning of the side seams, two horizontal folds of spare materiał will have formed on fhe Front across the bust. Smooth this spare materiał upwards and, with the model's arms raised, pin the tops of the side seams right up into the armpits, snipping out the base of the armholes and trimming away the excess as needed.

Continue to smooth the spare materiał upwards and inwards on each side, re-pinning the Front to the Back when you reach the shoulders. The Front should fit smoothly and all the surplus materiał will come together to form a vertical dart at the Centre Front neck. If the Centre Front dart from the waist reaches over the bust, continue it into the neckline.

Trim away the top of the toile to form the Front neck curve, which is deeper than the Back neck curve. Mark the linę of each armhole with pins, from the shoulder to the hollow in front of the arm.

14. Armholes, toile removal

Cut out the armholes on each side, starting horizontally from fhe side seams and curving up to meet the pins marking the upper shape, to the shoulder.

Check the fit once morę, and check the length of the toile: it should cover the fullest part of the hips and reach the tops of the legs. Draw onto the toile the outlines of the two vertical Centre Front darts -remember to draw both sides. Now take the pins out of the two darts and cut carefully up the Centre Front linę to remove the toile from the model.

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