tmta8

7. Foot styles for Figs 4b&c a. Style for Fig 4b This has heel extensions as in Figs 5 & 6, and combined half-sole and side gussets. With careful adjustment it can give a good fit. Before starting, ensure your toile is long enough to reach beyond the model's toes.

Leg - Fit the toile as described in Fig 5. When it begins to drag over the foot, snip into the fabric on each side over the ankle bonę, and slash straight down. Draw the back edges of the toile under the foot to enclose the heel, trimming away the surplus. The front section of the toile will form the vamp. Sole - Take another piece of fabric with a straight edge (AC) on the straight grain. This will form the sole and gussets. Place it under the foot and bring the straight edges up to match the slashes (marked " on the pattern) and pin in place.

Smooth the toile over the foot towards the toes to form the vamp. Work round both sides of the foot, smoothing the vamp down and pinning it all round to the sole. Any folds formed will be eased onto the sole when you make it up.

When you reach the slashed edges of the vamp, mark the position of the sloping edge of the gussets on the sole piece. Trim away the surplus round the foot before removing the toile. Plan a pattern from the toile and refit if necessary. Repeat for the other leg.

Making up - First sew the back leg seam to B, then carefully pin and stitch the sole and gusset piece, matching the letters. Ease the curved vamp onto the sole.

7a

20 cm

108