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4. Separate hose, 1200-1500

The foot styles are interchangeable: they could also have stirrups as shown in Fig 10.

a.    Early form of man's hose, with point at front and button (wood or cloth) for string tied to breech girdle. Upper legs are out wide to fit over long braies.

b.    Woman's hose; often seen folded down over the garter.

c.    Later form of man's hose reaching to top of the

leg, with eyelets for lacing to long doublet.

Separate hose, Fig 4

Measurements - Width: round the thigh at the widest point.

Length: from top of thigh to floor, when standing, plus the reąuirements of the chosen foot style. Preparing and modelling the toile, Fig 5 - You need to cut the two pieces of calico for the toile on the bias, one for each leg. First tear across the weft end of the calico to ensure it is on the straight grain. Find the bias linę by folding the materiał diagonally so the weft end lies along a selvedge. Measure the length along the bias and the width across it. Mark a Centre linę down each piece on the bias. Cut out each toile with plenty of spare and model it on the wearer.

The model must stand, bare legged and bare footed. Finish fitting and pinning one leg before starting the other. You can expect the calico used for the toile to have less stretch than the finished hose. Be careful with the pins! Pointing them upwards makes it safer for the model when you remove the completed toile.

For adjusting the toile and drawing the working pattern see Fig 6. For making up see p. 111.

5    a    b

the true bias before cutting. The corner x will lie at the top of the leg.

b. Modelling the leg Position the toile with the centre linę running down the front of the modefs leg, pinning it to the clothing at the top of the leg for support during fitting.

Draw the edges back round the knee and lower thigh until they fit fairly closely, but not tightly, and pin the back seam from the knee upwards. Next draw the edges back round the calf and pin them to fit behind the knee, over the calf muscle and down to the ankle, always keeping the linę on the toile straight down the front of the leg. The toile should fit closely enough to stay in place by itself, but don't puli it tight round the ankle or it will not come off over the heel.

The foot - As soon as the toile starts to drag over the top of the foot, fit the chosen foot style. This figurę and Fig 6 show the method for making an upper (or vamp) and sole in one.

Cut the toile to form a short pointed flap on top, and bring two extensions under the heel, continuing the back leg seam.

Lay another piece of fabric over the foot, pinning it first to the flap, then down the sides of the heel extensions. Trim away the surplus. Bring both sides under the modefs sole, pinning them together from heel extensions to toes. You won't get a close fit with this style, and the pattern tends to form a 'peak' at the toes, but it is simpler than other enclosed feet, and useful on thicker cloth.

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