58822 tmta2
7. WomarTs cotehardie, later 14th century
This short-lived but distinctive form echoes the men's style. The front is open to hip level, and buttoned: notę that it buttons left over right, as for men. The sleeves are short, with streamers, showing the buttoned mitten cuff sleeves of the kirtle. Alternatively the cotehardie might have long sleeves (Kirtles, Fig 5). It sometimes has fitchets, or pocket slits, like those on the surcote (Surcotes, Fig 5).
Woman’s cotehardie
8. Bodice and sleeve for Fig 7
The cotehardie is out to fit closely over the basie kirtle (Kirtles, Figs 2, 3c), and the two garments should be planned together. In wear the two layers function almost as one, though the kirtle skirts should be shorter and less fuli.
a. Bodice. Tracę the personal Błock. Make surę the kirtle and the cotehardie patterns have the same Iow, wide necklines. A matching neckline pattern is given in Kirtles, Fig 3c. Flere the neckline is lowered by 3 cm at CB, 7 cm from NP at the shoulder, and 6 cm at CF. The only other adjustment for the cotehardie is to hollow out the underarms by 1 cm, as shown, to give a little ease over the kirtle sleeves. Tracę off the adapted bodice.
b. Sleeve. Measure the enlarged armhole and widen the sleeve Błock along the FL to match, see Blocks, Fig 25. Flere it is widened by about 1 cm, which can all be added at FL. Plan a short sleeve. Measure 15-20 cm from BP down the Back seam lines and rule a construction linę AA. Draw a shallow curve, as shown, and tracę off the pattern.
Make the streamer as a doubled strip of lightweight cloth. Sew this as a facing round the edge of the sleeve, with the hanging end at the back.
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