55155 tmta5
Platę 14 Fixing the pleats, Plates 12,13
First make up the gown. Put it on a sturdy hanger or dress stand, to fali into shape. To make a waist stay cut a strip of cloth or canvas 5 cm wide and 10-15 cm longer than the wearer's waist size. Mark the half and quarter points with pins, and pin these at waist level to the CB and side seams inside the gown. Pin the ends of the stay to the CF edges.
Work from the outside, through all layers of the gown together. Starting from the side seams, on the Back and then the Front, pin the stay fiat to the fabric as far as the first pleat. Arrange the pleats evenly using the tailor's tacks as a guide, and pin each pleat to the stay.
Leave overnight on the hanger to see if the pleats distort or twist, and adjust if necessary before stitching firmly through the stay into each pleat. Stitch the stay in place on the seams and front edges. A further stay atadifferent level, as illustrated, will add stability.
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