65896 m337

It was kept, together with Royal banners, in Reims cathedral, and was used only in defence of the kingdom, the Chnrch or the Chrisuan faith.

Other sorts of identificadon included 4,200 black pennons bearing the word Justice in silver or gold, distributed by the Dauphin Charles to his men during a civil war against the Duke of Burgundy in 1411. Other banners used by the Dauphin’s forces included a flag bearing a dolphin, another bearing a fully armoured St Michael killing a serpent, and a third with an armoured saint holding a naked sword.

French soldiers killing Jaquerie rebels. The latter are shown in middle-class costume rather than as poverty-stricken peasants. The soldiers are also well equipped, wearing a variety of helmets including one covered in scales. (Chroniques de St Denis, British Library, Ms. Roy. 20, C.VII, f.133, London)

As yet no ‘uniforms’ existed, but the Royal court madę increasing use of disdncdve clothing for specific groups of servants or retainers. For example, the sergeanLs at arms often wore blue and black during the reign of Charles V. In 1382 Charles VI introduced a new system to create a sense of comradeship amongst his followers. Every member of the Compagnie du Roy from the king down to the humblest servant, including women, had to dress in particular costumes, colours and devices, with the king and his councillors deciding at what point in each year these liveries would change.

Most livery devices reflected the cnrrent political situation. The most important such badges included the winged stag used by Charles VI before 1388, and the geneste (broom plant) associated with the Marmousettes faction towards the end of his reign and inherited by Charles VII. The badges worn by ordinary retainers were of base metal whereas those worn by senior men were usually of enamelled silver or gold.

Beyond court circles costume and badges were also used to show alle-giance. For example, in Paris in 1375 many people adopted hoods halved red and blue as a mark of alle-giance to Etienne Marcel, a political leader demanding widespread reform. In 1411 another Parisian group, the Cabochiens, adopted blue hats, and two years later their rivals took to wearing white hats. At other times those sympathetic to the Burgundian faction wore their comettes or caps pulled to the right, the pro-Armagnacs to the left.

Financial weakness was the main reason why the French crown could not gather sufficient forces to resist the English following the battle of Agincourt.

Similarly the treaty which reconciled King Charles