essent�rving�15

Fig 10.16 The smali beech bowl being held in a caruers chops with a bar across its mouth.

Fic. 10.17 Double ivy leaf bowl in cherry with holding błock screwed on base.

Fig 10.18 Cherry-wood bowl held in vice by błock Fic; 10.19 Finished cherry-wood bowl by Roy screwed into top surface of the bowl blank. Notę the Taylor, chisel being used to split off wood to the saiu cut.

No. 11) should be driven in with a scooping mocion, working down towards che centrę of the bowl but starting well in from the outer edge. This is an occasion when a short, steep, outsidc bevd gives an advantage. To rapidly establish the depth of the bowl and to make a space for the displaced wood you may drill the centre out, remembering the pilot serew on the end of the drill if it has one. To mcasure the thickness of the bowl the fingers may providc a reasonable gauge but double-ended callipcrs are safer.

As the bowl gets deeper enlargc the opening bur

leave the finał inside of the rim umil Iast, as the chisels will bruise it when resting against it. Also avoid catching the shoulder of the chisel or the fermie on the edge when using the mallet, as that can tear the wood badl)'. Unless the bowl is very shallow you will need at least one bent gouge. Bccause of its lower cutting angle a long bent is excellcnt for applying pressurc while maintaining control, but a spoon bit is often needed for the tight curves at the bonoms of bowls (see Fig 10.15). Numbers 7, 8 or 9 sweeps are gcod, but flatter ones may be needed to give a smooth finish. A width of

—.115—

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