1

INTRODUCTION

GENERAL

This section has the descriptions and service procedures
for the electrical systems used on the Mazda M4–2.0G
gasoline or LPG engine. This section includes the start-
ing, ignition, and charging systems.

CAUTION

When using an arc welder, always disconnect the
ground lead from the lift truck battery to prevent
alternator or battery damage. Attach the welding
ground clamp as close to the weld area as possible to
prevent welding current from damaging the
bearings.

The diodes and resistors in the electrical system can
be damaged if the following cautions are not
followed:

•

Do not disconnect the battery when the engine
is running. The voltage surge can damage the
diodes and resistors in the electrical system.

•

Do not disconnect an electric wire before the
engine is stopped and the switches are “OFF”.

•

Do not cause a short–circuit by connecting the
electric wires to the wrong terminals. Make
sure a correct identification is made of the wire
before it is connected.

•

Make sure a battery is the correct voltage and
polarity before it is connected.

•

Do not check for current flow by making a
spark because the electronic components can
be damaged.

DESCRIPTION

Starting System (See FIGURE 1.)

The starting system includes the starter, battery, key
switch, and neutral start switch. The starter solenoid is
energized when current flows through the key switch,
neutral start switch, and solenoid. The solenoid mag-
netically pushes the clutch out to engage the engine fly-
wheel teeth. The solenoid also closes contacts to ener-
gize the starter motor. These operations occur at ap-
proximately the same time. The motor torque is applied
just as the teeth engage. The key switch must be in the
START position. The neutral start switch must also be
in the ON position to energize the starter. The neutral

start switch is in the ON position when the transmission
is in NEUTRAL.

1. BATTERY
2. KEY SWITCH
3. NEUTRAL START SWITCH
4. STARTER
5. “S” TERMINAL
6. BATTERY TERMINAL
7. DISCONNECT SWITCH

(EEC ONLY)

FIGURE 1. THE STARTING CIRCUIT

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Ignition System (See FIGURE 2.)

The ignition system generates a spark at each spark plug
to start combustion in each cylinder. The ignition sys-
tem has the following main parts: battery, key switch,
coil, distributor, spark plugs, and wires.

If the starter is operating, current flows from the battery,
through the key switch and the neutral start switch to en-
ergize the starter solenoid. Current also flows through
the key switch, coil primary, and distributor. The dis-
tributor opens and closes the coil primary circuit as the
starter rotates the engine crankshaft. The opening and
closing of the circuit causes the primary current and
magnetic field in the coil to change. The changing mag-
netic field generates a high voltage in the secondary
winding of the coil. The distributor sends this high volt-
age to each spark plug at the correct time for combus-
tion.

2

FIGURE 2. THE IGNITION CIRCUIT

9578

1. BATTERY
2. KEY SWITCH
3. NEUTRAL

START SWITCH

4. COIL

1

5. DISTRIBUTOR
6. SPARK PLUG
7. DISCONNECT

SWITCH (EEC
ONLY)

2

3

4

5

6

7

When the engine is running, current flows from the bat-
tery, through the key switch, coil, and distributor and
then returns to the battery. Distributor operation is the
same during engine starting or running conditions ex-
cept for the timing advance mechanisms.

Charging System (See FIGURE 3.)

The charging system includes the key switch, the battery
and the alternator, and voltage regulator. The key switch
connects battery voltage to the regulator. The regulator
controls the alternator to charge the battery. Battery
voltage decreases as the starting circuit and other cir-
cuits take energy from the battery. The regulator senses
this decrease in battery voltage and increases the alter-
nator output to charge the battery. The alternator is
either ON or OFF. The alternator generates maximum
current when it is ON and no current when it is OFF. The
regulator switches the alternator between ON and OFF
to get the average current needed to charge the battery.
Alternator output is directly changed by engine speed
and rotor current.

The alternator has four main parts that include the stator,
the rotor, the diode assembly, and the voltage regulator.
Mechanical power from the engine turns the rotor inside
the stator windings. The voltage regulator controls the
flow of battery current to the rotor brushes, slip rings,
and rotor windings. A magnetic field that rotates is the
result of this current flow in the stator windings.

FIGURE 3. THE CHARGING CIRCUIT

9542

1. ALTERNATOR
2. CONNECTOR
3. OTHER BATTERY CIRCUITS

1

4. INDICATOR
5. KEY SWITCH
6. BATTERY

2

3

4

5

6

7

9

7. REGULATOR
8. STATOR
9. ROTOR

10. DIODE TRIO

8

10

3

The alternating current (AC) generated by the alternator
is changed to direct current (DC) by the diodes to be-
come the alternator output. The output from the alterna-

tor connects to the positive terminal of the battery to
charge the battery.

REPAIRS

GENERAL

NOTE: Use the TROUBLESHOOTING and CHECKS
AND ADJUSTMENTS sections of this section before
starting any repair procedures. Make sure that repair or
replacement of that part is necessary before removal,
disassembly, or replacement of the part.

WARNING

Always disconnect the battery ground cable before
making repairs to prevent possible damage and
injury. Install a tag on the battery terminal so that no
one connects the cable on the terminal.

STARTER

Removal and Disassembly (See FIGURE 5.)

NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to replace
the part that has damage.

1. Disconnect the battery cable at the negative terminal
of the battery. Install a tag on the battery terminal to
warn against connecting the cable.

2. Remove the plate that fastens to the engine between
the fuel pump and starter.

3. Put labels on the electrical leads to the starter for cor-
rect connection during installation. Remove all electri-
cal leads fastened to the starter.

4. Hold the starter so that it will not fall. Remove the two
capscrews that fasten the starter to the flywheel housing
and remove the starter.

5. Put the starter on a work bench. Remove the nut, lock
washer, washer, and strap from the motor terminal on
the solenoid.

6. Remove the three screws that fasten the solenoid to
the drive housing and remove the solenoid. Remove the
spring and washers.

7. Remove the two long bolts and the two screws that
fasten the end cover of the motor. Remove the cover. Re-
move the washers from the armature shaft.

8. Lift the brush springs and remove the brushes from
the brush holders. Remove the brush holder assembly
from the field housing. Move the field housing from the
armature and drive housing.

9. Measure the length of the brushes. Measure from
end–to–end of each brush. The standard length is 17 mm
(0.67 in). The minimum brush length is 11.5 mm (0.45
in). Install new brushes as shown in FIGURE 4. Install a
new brush holder to replace the negative brushes.

FIGURE 4. STARTER MOTOR BRUSHES

Use a hammer to break the brush from the wire.

Use a soldering iron to remove the old solder from
the wire. Twist the end of the brush wire to put the
wires together. Put the wire in the brush and sol-
der the brush to the wire. Make sure the solder
surface on the brush is flat.

10. Remove the springs seat, springs, and washer for the
lever. Remove the armature, clutch assembly, solenoid
plunger, and lever. Remove the lever from the clutch as-
sembly.

11. Use a small pipe or tube to slide the retainer off the
snap ring. Remove the snap ring and retainer from the
armature shaft. Remove the clutch assembly from the
armature shaft.

4

FIGURE 5. PARTS OF THE STARTER

1. SOLENOID ASSEMBLY
2. LEVER
3. BUSHING
4. DRIVE HOUSING
5. WASHER
6. LOCK RING
7. SPACER
8. CLUTCH
9. ARMATURE

10. FIELD HOUSING

11. BRUSH

12. BRUSH SPRING
13. BRUSH HOLDER
14. COVER

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

3

5

11

Assembly and Installation (See FIGURE 5.)

1. Install the clutch assembly on the armature shaft. See
FIGURE 5. Install the retainer and snap ring to hold the
clutch assembly on the armature shaft.

2. Install the lever on the clutch assembly. Install the so-
lenoid plunger on the lever. Install the armature, clutch
assembly, solenoid plunger, and lever in the drive hous-
ing. Install the washer springs and spring seat for the
lever in the drive housing.

3. Install the field housing over the armature. Carefully
install the brush holder assembly in the field housing.
Make sure that the assembly is in the correct position.
Make sure that the brush leads are free.

4. Lift the brush springs and install all of the brushes. In-
stall the washers on the armature shaft. See FIGURE 5.

5. Install the end cover, the two long bolts, and the two
screws that fasten the end cover.

6. Install the solenoid washers, spring, and solenoid on
the drive housing using the screws. Connect the strap
from the motor to the motor terminal of the solenoid. In-

5

stall the washer, lock washer, and nut on the motor ter-
minal. Tighten the nut.

7. Install the starter on the flywheel housing using the
two capscrews.

8. Install all the electrical leads to the correct solenoid
terminals as marked on the labels. Install the plate that
fastens to the engine between the fuel pump and starter.

9. Connect the battery cable to the negative terminal of
the battery.

FIGURE 6. COIL REPLACEMENT

1. ENGINE
2. DISTRIBUTOR
3. BATTERY

1

2

3

4

5

6

H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) SHOWN

4. IGNITION COIL
5. SCREW, NUT,

AND WASHER (2)

6. BATTERY BRACKET

COIL REPLACEMENT

The coil is installed on a bracket near the battery tray.

1. Put labels on the wires connected to the coil for cor-
rect connection during installation.

2. Remove the two capscrews, nuts and washers that fas-
ten the coil to the battery bracket.

4. Install the replacement coil using the capscrews, nuts,
and washers.

5. Connect all wires to the coil as marked on the labels.

DISTRIBUTOR, H1.50–1.75XM, H2.00XMS
(S/H25–35XM, S/H40XMS)

Removal And Disassembly (See FIGURE 7.)

NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to replace
the part that has damage.

1. Loosen the screws that fasten the distributor cap to the
distributor. Remove the cap and heat sink. If the cap will
be replaced, remove the wires from the cap. Make a note
for correct installation of wires in the replacement cap.

2. Disconnect the vacuum line from the vacuum control.
Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap.

3. Make alignment marks on the engine and distributor
housing for correct alignment during installation. Make
a mark on the edge of the distributor housing for rotor
alignment for correct installation. Remove the nut and
washers that fasten the flange of the distributor housing
to the engine block. Slowly remove the distributor hous-
ing from the engine without turning the housing.

NOTE: The rotor will turn as the distributor is removed.
Make a note of the direction and amount of rotation from
the mark on the edge of the distributor housing.

4. Remove the signal rotor and rotor. Remove the pick–
up assembly and cover.

5. Remove the screws for the electronic module. Re-
move the electronic module and breaker assembly.

6. Disconnect the vacuum advance mechanism. Re-
move the screws that fasten the vacuum advance mecha-
nism to the distributor housing. Remove the vacuum ad-
vance mechanism from the housing.

7. Put the drive gear in a vise that has soft jaws. Tighten
the vise just enough to keep the gear from turning in the
vise. Do not damage the drive gear. Remove the screw
from the bore in the top end of the shaft. Remove the
timing advance parts.

8. Put the distributor housing on a block that is a support
for the bottom shaft near the drive gear. Use a punch and
hammer to carefully remove the roll pin. Do not damage
the drive gear. Remove the drive gear and oil seal. Re-
move the shaft.

CAUTION

Do NOT move the engine crankshaft while the dis-
tributor is removed. The distributor will not be
installed correctly.

6

13. VACUUM ADVANCE UNIT
14. ROLL PIN
15. DRIVE GEAR

FIGURE 7. PARTS OF THE DISTRIBUTOR, H1.50–1.75XM, H2.00XMS (S/H25–35XM, S/H40XMS)

1

2

3

4

5

6

8

7

10

11

9

1. CAP
2. HEAT SINK
3. SIGNAL ROTOR
4. ROTOR
5. PICK–UP ASSEMBLY
6. COVER
7. ELECTRONIC MODULE
8. BREAKER ASSEMBLY
9. TIMING ADVANCE UNIT

13

14

12

15

10. OIL SEAL

11. SEAL

12. HOUSING

Assembly and Installation (See FIGURE 7.)

CAUTION

Make sure the distributor shaft is clean and smooth.
Make sure the bore for the shaft is clean.

1. Put engine oil on the shaft. Install the shaft in the dis-
tributor housing. Install the oil seal and drive gear. Align
the hole in the gear with the hole in the shaft and install
the roll pin.

2. Assemble and install the timing advance mechanism
as shown in FIGURE 7. Make sure the weights can
move easily on the pins. If necessary, use fine abrasive
cloth to polish the pins and the holes in the weights. The

fine abrasive cloth must be number 500 to 600. Remove
all dust and put a very thin layer of grease on each pin.

3. Install the vacuum advance mechanism on the distrib-
utor housing with the hole in the arm over the pin on the
breaker assembly. Install the screw that fastens the vacu-
um advance mechanism to the distributor housing.

4. Install the breaker assembly on the top shaft. Install
the electronic module.

5. Install the cover and pick–up assembly. Install the ro-
tor and signal rotor.

6. Install the heat sink and distributor cap.

7

CAUTION

If the engine crankshaft has been moved since the
distributor was removed, see the repair procedures
for the engine to correctly install the distributor. Do
not do Step 8.

7. Align the marks on the engine and distributor hous-
ing. Align the rotor with the mark on the distributor
housing and move the rotor to the position as described
in the NOTE of the removal procedure. When the instal-
lation is correct, the rotor/distributor housing mark and
the distributor housing/engine marks will all be correct-
ly aligned. Tighten the capscrews that fasten the housing
to the engine.

8. Connect the wires to the distributor. If necessary, con-
nect the spark plug wires to the correct spark plugs. Con-
nect the vacuum line to the vacuum advance mecha-
nism.

DISTRIBUTOR,
S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM)

Removal and Disassembly (See FIGURE 8.)

NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to replace
the part that has damage.

1. Loosen the two screws that fasten the distributor cap
to the distributor. Remove the cap. If the cap will be re-
placed, remove the wires from the cap. Make a note for
correct installation of wires in replacement cap.

2. Disconnect the vacuum line from the vacuum ad-
vance mechanism. Remove the coil wire from the dis-
tributor cap.

3. Make alignment marks on the engine and distributor
housing for correct alignment during installation. Make
a mark on the edge of the distributor housing for rotor
alignment for correct installation. Remove the nut and
washers that fasten the flange of the distributor housing
to the engine block. Slowly remove the distributor hous-
ing from the engine without turning the housing.

NOTE: The rotor will turn as the distributor is removed.
Make a note of the direction and amount of rotation from
the mark on the edge of the distributor housing.

4. Remove the rotor, seal ring, and cover.

5. Remove the two screws that fasten the electronic
module and sensing coil assembly to the heat sink. Dis-
connect and remove the electronic module from the
sensing coil assembly. Disconnect the two electrical
leads for the electronic module. Remove the wire and
grommet assembly from the slot in the side of the dis-
tributor housing.

6. Remove the snap ring that fastens the arm of the vac-
uum advance mechanism. Remove the two screws that
fasten the vacuum advance mechanism to the distributor
housing. Remove the vacuum advance mechanism from
the housing.

7. Remove the two screws on the outside of the housing
that fasten the heat sink. The heat sink is the base for the
electronic module and sensing coil assembly.

8. Remove the two screws that fasten the breaker assem-
bly to the inside of the distributor housing.

9. Put the drive gear in a vise that has soft jaws. Tighten
the vise just enough to keep the gear from turning in the
vise. Do not damage the drive gear. Remove the screw
from the bore in the end of the top shaft.

10. Hold the distributor housing upside down and care-
fully tap the outer edges on a soft wooden block. Tap the
housing until the breaker assembly comes loose from
the housing. Remove the breaker assembly and top shaft
from the housing.

11. If the sensing coil must be replaced, remove the roll
pin that locks the signal rotor to the top of the shaft. Re-
move the signal rotor and sensing coil assembly.

12. If the weights must be replaced, remove the two
springs and the snap rings from the two pin mounts. Pull
the weights from the shaft bracket.

13. To remove the bottom shaft assembly, the drive gear
must be removed. Put the distributor housing on a block
that is a support for the bottom shaft near the drive gear.
Use a punch and hammer to carefully remove the roll
pin. Do not damage the drive gear. Remove the drive
gear and oil seal. Remove the two screws that fasten the
shaft bracket inside the base of the distributor housing.
Remove the bottom shaft.

8

CAUTION

Do NOT move the engine crankshaft before the dis-
tributor is installed. The distributor will not be
installed correctly and the engine will not operate
correctly. If the crankshaft is moved, see the section
for the ENGINE

to correctly install the distributor.

Assembly and Installation (See FIGURE 8.)

CAUTION

Make sure both distributor shafts are clean and
smooth. Make sure the bores for the shafts are clean.

1. Put engine oil on the top and bottom shafts. Install the
bottom shaft in the distributor housing and fasten with
the two screws inside the base of the distributor housing.
Install the oil seal and drive gear. Align the hole in the
gear with the hole in the shaft and install the roll pin.

2. Assemble and install the timing advance mechanism
as shown in FIGURE 8. Make sure the weights can
move easily on the pins. If necessary, use fine abrasive
cloth to polish the pins and the holes in the weights. The
fine abrasive cloth must be number 500 to 600. Remove
all dust and put a very thin layer of grease on each pin.

3. Install the breaker assembly on the top shaft. Install
the sensing coil, with the coil windings toward the
breaker assembly, on the heat sink. Put a thin coating of
special heat sink grease on the electronic module. Install
the electronic module on the heat sink.

4. Put the heat sink assembly on the top shaft. Install the
signal rotor correctly on the shaft and fasten it with the
roll pin. See FIGURE 8.

5. Install the top shaft assembly onto the bottom shaft
and into the distributor housing. Make sure the bearing

on the breaker assembly is completely installed in the
bore of the housing. Install the two screws and fasten the
breaker assembly to the inside of the distributor hous-
ing. Install the screws that fasten the heat sink assembly
to the distributor housing.

6. Install the vacuum advance mechanism on the distrib-
utor housing with the hole in the arm over the pin on the
breaker assembly. Install the snap ring on the pin to fas-
ten the arm. Install the two screws that fasten the vacu-
um advance mechanism to the distributor housing.

7. Connect the electrical leads to the electronic module.
Make sure the leads and the grommet are in the correct
position in the slot on the side of the distributor. Install
the cover, seal ring, and rotor. If necessary, install the
spark plug wires in the correct positions in the replace-
ment distributor cap. Install the distributor cap.

CAUTION

If the engine crankshaft has been moved since the
distributor was removed, see the section for the EN-
GINE

to correctly install the distributor. Do not do

Step 8.

8. Align the marks on the engine and distributor hous-
ing. Align the rotor with the mark on the distributor
housing and move the rotor to the position as described
in the NOTE of the removal procedure. The distributor
rotor MUST be correctly aligned with the engine crank-
shaft. If the installation is correct, the rotor/distributor
housing mark and the distributor housing/engine marks
will all be correctly aligned. Tighten the capscrews that
fasten the housing to the engine.

9. Connect the coil wire to the distributor. If necessary
connect the spark plug wires to the correct spark plugs.
Connect the vacuum line to the vacuum advance mecha-
nism.

9

6. SENSING COIL (PICK–UP)
7. ELECTRICAL LEADS
8. ELECTRONIC MODULE
9. HEAT SINK

10. BREAKER ASSEMBLY

11. TIMING ADVANCE MECHANISM

12. TOP SHAFT
13. SPRINGS (2)
14. WEIGHTS (2)
15. SNAP RING
16. BOTTOM SHAFT ASSEMBLY
17. DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING
18. VACUUM ADVANCE MECHANISM
19. OIL SEAL
20. DRIVE GEAR AND ROLL PIN

FIGURE 8. PARTS OF THE DISTRIBUTOR, S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM)

12653

1

2

3

4

5

6

8

7

10

11

18

19

20

9

1. CAP
2. ROTOR ASSEMBLY
3. SEAL RING
4. COVER
5. SIGNAL ROTOR

17

13

14

15

12

16

ALTERNATOR

Removal And Disassembly (See FIGURE 9.)

NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to replace
the part that has damage.

1. Disconnect the battery cable at the negative terminal
of the battery. Install a tag on the battery terminal so that
no one connects the cable on the terminal.

2. Put a label on the wire connected to the B terminal. Put
a label on the wire connected to the ground terminal. Re-
move the wires from the terminals and disconnect the
connector plug from the alternator.

10

3. Remove the capsrews, washers, and nut that fasten the
alternator to the engine. Remove the alternator.

4. Remove the three bolts that fasten the end housing to-
gether.

5. Put the rotor in a vise that has soft jaws. Do not tighten
the vise to cause rotor distortion. Use a socket wrench to
remove the pulley nut. Remove the pulley, fan, collar,
and front housing from the rotor.

6. Remove the three screws that fasten the bearing re-
tainer to the front housing. Remove the bearing retainer
and ball bearing.

7. Remove the nuts that fasten the stator and diode as-
sembly to the rear housing. Remove the stator and diode
assembly from the rear housing.

8. Mark the stator to show the position of the brushes and
connector. Use pliers as a heat sink to keep heat from the
diodes. Use a soldering iron to remove the stator leads
from the diode assembly.

Assembly and Installation (See FIGURE 9.)

1. Hold the diode assembly in a position to connect the
stator leads. Align the brushes and connector at the mark
on the stator. Use pliers to keep heat from the diodes.
Use a soldering iron to connect the stator leads to the di-
ode assembly.

1. NUT AND LOCKWASHER
2. PULLEY
3. COLLAR
4. BOLT
5. FRONT HOUSING
6. BALL BEARING
7. BEARING RETAINER
8. ROTOR
9. STATOR

10. VOLTAGE REGULATOR

AND BRUSH ASSEMBLY

11. BRUSH (2)

12. SPRING (2)
13. DIODE ASSEMBLY
14. REAR HOUSING

FIGURE 9. PARTS OF THE ALTERNATOR

12643

13

11

14

9

1

4

2

6

6

10

3

5

7

8

12

1

11

2. Install the ball bearing and bearing retainer on the
front housing. Use the three screws.

3. Put the rotor, with threaded end of the shaft up, in a
vise that has soft jaws. Do not tighten the vise to cause
rotor distortion. Install the collar, fan, pulley, lock wash-
er, and nut on the shaft. Tighten the nut using a socket
wrench.

4. Install the stator and diode assembly on the rotor and
rear housing. Hold the brushes away from the slip rings
during installation. Use a pin or wire in the hole of the
brush holder.

5. If the ball bearing next to the slip rings was removed,
install it on the armature shaft.

6. Install the rear housing over the diode assembly.
Make sure all the insulators for the screws are correctly
installed. The positive half of the diode assembly must
not touch the rear housing. The screws must not touch
the rear housing and the positive half of the diode assem-
bly. Install the nuts and bolts that fasten the rear hous-
ings.

7. Install the alternator on the engine using the
capscrews, washers, and nut. Make sure to install the
belt on the pulley. Adjust the belt tension as described in
the section for PERIODIC MAINTENANCE.

8. Connect the plug to the alternator connector. Connect
the other wires to the B and ground terminals as shown
on the labels. Connect the negative cable on the battery
terminal.

CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS

GENERAL

There are no adjustments for the starter or alternator.
The distributor timing and spark plug clearance must be
adjusted.

Remove the battery cables and clean the terminals and
cable connectors. Inspect the insulation on the wires.
Make sure all the fasteners and connections are clean
and tight. If necessary, use a water and soda solution to
clean the top of the battery. Do NOT remove the cell
caps or permit the water and soda solution to get in the
battery.

WARNING

To prevent movement of the lift truck, put the trans-
mission in NEUTRAL and apply the parking brake.

CAUTION

Do not change the polarity of the circuits. Do not con-
nect any wires in the circuits, except as described in
these instructions. Never connect the wire from the
terminal marked “BAT” to an open circuit.

When connecting a charger or another battery, connect
the positive terminals to the positive terminal of the bat-
tery. Then connect the negative terminal to a clean metal
part of the engine. Disconnect the charger or other bat-
tery in the reverse order. Problems in the charging cir-
cuit are indicated by one or more of the following:

a. The starter motor turns slowly. The battery volt-

age is low because of low alternator output or a
bad battery.

b. The specific gravity readings are low. Battery is

not fully charged or is damaged.

c. The battery uses more than 30 ml (one ounce) of

water per cell per month. The alternator output is
too high.

STARTER

Check Operation (See FIGURE 10.)

The starter is in good condition if the results of this
check are within the specifications. If the results are
within specifications, additional checks or starter repair
is not necessary.

CAUTION

Make sure the cables to the starter and ammeter are
gauge 4 (25 mm

2

) minimum.

1. Put the starter in a vise so that it cannot move.

2. Use a 12V battery that has a full charge. Use an amme-
ter that has a minimum capacity of 60 amperes. Connect
the circuit shown in FIGURE 10. Attach the jumper
wire (7) to the S terminal, but do not connect the nega-
tive lead (2) of the battery to the starter yet.

3. Touch the negative lead to the starter housing for only
a short time and check the indications on the meters.

12

Now, remove the negative lead from the starter housing.
Remove the small jumper wire from the S terminal.

FIGURE 10. CHECK THE STARTER

9568

1. STARTER SOLENOID
2. NEGATIVE LEAD (DO NOT CONNECT)
3. 12V BATTERY
4. AMMETER
5. STARTER
6. POSITIVE LEAD
7. JUMPER WIRE

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

S

B

M

4. The starter is in good condition if all of the following
items are correct:

a.

Clutch assembly moves so that it can engage the
flywheel.

b. Smooth rotation occurs just after clutch move-

ment.

c.

Ammeter must indicate 53 ampere or less.

d. Clutch assembly moves so that it can disengage

the flywheel after jumper wire is removed from S
terminal.

Check Brush Holder (See FIGURE 11.)

Remove the brush holder from the motor housing. Re-
move the brushes from the brush holder. Connect an
ohmmeter between each bracket that holds each brush
and the mount plate for the brackets. The indications for
the two positive brackets must be infinity. The indica-
tions for the two other brackets must be zero ohms.

FIGURE 11. CHECK THE BRUSH HOLDER

9553

1. NEGATIVE BRACKETS
2. POSITIVE BRACKETS
3. MOUNT PLATE

1

2

2

3

NOTE: BRUSH ASSEMBLY CAN BE
DIFFERENT THAN SHOWN.

Check Armature

Remove the armature. Use an ohmmeter to check for an
infinity indication between any commutator bar and the
armature shaft. Check for continuity (zero ohms) be-
tween any two commutator bars. If either check is
wrong, replace the armature.

Check Field Windings

Remove the motor, brush holder, and armature. Use an
ohmmeter to check for continuity between the positive
brush and electrical lead of the motor. Check for a indi-
cation of infinity between a positive brush and the motor
housing. If the indication is not infinity, check that the
brush lead connections are not touching the housing. If
either check shows a wrong condition, replace the com-
plete motor housing.

Check Clutch And Bearing

Check the teeth of the gear. If the teeth are worn or dam-
aged, replace the clutch assembly. Check the teeth of the
ring gear on the flywheel. If the teeth are worn or dam-
aged, replace the ring gear. See the section for the EN-
GINE. Check that the clutch bearing rotates freely and
smoothly. The bearing must not be loose.

IGNITION SYSTEM

Adjust Engine Timing (See FIGURE 12.)

Check that the distributor is adjusted for the correct tim-
ing. Connect a timing light to the number one spark plug

13

wire. Disconnect and put a plug in the vacuum hose that
is connected to the vacuum advance unit. Operate the
engine at idle speed (725 rpm). Carefully hold the tim-
ing light in a position to illuminate the indicator. The
correct degree mark on the pulley must be aligned with
the indicator on the engine. If the mark is not aligned,
loosen the clamp at the base of the distributor housing.
Adjust the position of the distributor to align the correct
timing mark and the indicator. Tighten the clamp and
check that the timing is still correct. Carefully remove
the timing light, stop the engine, and disconnect the tim-
ing light

FIGURE 12. IGNITION TIMING

1. INDICATOR
2. 0

°

BTDC, WHITE

3. 9

°

BTDC, RED

4. YELLOW TIMING

MARK (NOT USED)

5. DISTRIBUTOR

1

2

3

4

5

S/H2.00–3.20XM (S/H40–65XM) SHOWN

The correct timing for the H1.50–1.75XM, H2.00XMS
(S/H25–35XM, S/H40XMS) units is as follows:
Gasoline Engine = 0

°

BTDC @ 725

±

25 rpm

LPG Engine = 8

°

BTDC @ 725

±

25 rpm

The correct timing for the S/H2.00–3.20XM
(SH40–65XM) units is as follows:
Gasoline Engine = 0

°

BTDC @ 725

±

25 rpm

LPG Engine = 9

°

BTDC @ 725

±

25 rpm

WARNING

Make sure the timing light, and your hands and arms
stay clear of the fan blade area. The rotating blades
of the fan can cause damage or injury.

Spark Plugs

Check the spark plugs for the following conditions:

•

Burned Insulator

•

Cracked or Broken Insulator

•

Burned Electrodes (anode or cathode)

•

Carbon Deposits

•

Damaged Gasket

Replace spark plugs that have any of the damage shown
above. Make sure to adjust the electrode clearance to 0.7
to 0.8 mm (0.028 to 0.032 in).

CHARGING CIRCUIT

Always check the general condition of the complete sys-
tem before doing a complete check on each part. Check
the general condition of the following parts: (1) battery,
(2) battery cables and connections and (3) alternator
wires and connectors. Also check the condition and ten-
sion of the drive belt for the alternator.

CAUTION

NEVER operate the engine if the alternator output B
terminal is not connected to the battery.

Do not short–circuit or connect jumper wires to any
of the alternator terminals unless told to by the pro-
cedures.

Make sure polarity is correct before connecting a
battery charger or another battery.

The two problems of the charging circuit are low output
and high output. Low output causes a low battery and
difficult starting. A high output causes heating of the
battery and evaporation of water from the electrolyte.
The following two checks will find out if the alternator,
regulator, or wiring has the charging fault. The two
checks will also find out if the charging system has a cor-
rect output. Do the following two checks before re-
moval, disassembly, or replacement of alternator or
regulator.

14

Check For Low Output (See FIGURE 13.)

WARNING

Do not connect the wire from the “BAT” terminal to
the electrical ground. A short–circuit will occur and
make sparks, which can cause injury.

NOTE: Make sure the wire from the voltmeter makes
contact with each terminal on the alternator.

1. Connect a voltmeter between the battery terminal B
and the electrical ground. Turn the key switch to the ON
position and check the indication.

2. Connect a voltmeter to the Field terminal L and the
Regulator terminal R. Follow the procedure in Step 1
and check the indication.

FIGURE 13. CHECK ALTERNATOR OUTPUT

5139

1. RESISTOR (CARBON PILE)
2. BATTERY
3. VOLTMETER
4. STARTER
5. ALTERNATOR
6. BATTERY TERMINAL (B)
7. FIELD TERMINAL (L)
8. REGULATOR TERMINAL (R)
9. AMMETER

NOTE: ALTERNATOR CAN BE
DIFFERENT THAN SHOWN.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

3. If there are no indications on the voltmeter during
Steps 1 and 2, check for an open circuit between each
terminal and the battery.

4. If there are indications on the voltmeter during Steps 1
and 2, disconnect the cable for the electrical ground on
the battery.

5. Connect an ammeter into the circuit at the battery ter-
minal B. See FIGURE 13.

6. Connect the cable for the electrical ground on the bat-
tery.

7. Connect a resistor (carbon pile) across the terminals
of the battery.

WARNING

During engine operation, be careful not to touch pul-
leys, fans, or belts in the engine area. Contact with
these parts can cause personal injury.

8. Start and run the engine at 2000 to 2500 rpm. Adjust
the resistor until the maximum charging rate is reached.

9. Read the maximum charging rate on the alternator
frame. Read the ammeter. The indication on the amme-
ter must be within 10% of the amount shown on the
frame.

10. If the amount shown is within 10%, the alternator is
in good condition. Check the starter or wires for the
problems.

Check For High Output (See FIGURE 13.)

1. Connect a voltmeter from the regulator terminal to the
electrical ground. Check the indication on the voltmeter.

2. If there are no indications, check for an open circuit
between the regulator terminal and the battery.

3. If there is an indication, connect a voltmeter between
the “BAT” terminal and the electrical ground.

4. Increase the engine speed until the maximum voltage
indication is reached.

5. If the voltage shown is more than 15.5 volts, disas-
semble the alternator and do the remainder of the
checks.

15

FIGURE 14. CHECK THE DIODES

4. TERMINALS FOR OTHER OHMMETER LEAD

1. POINT “A”

1

2

3

2. POINT “B”

3. POINT “C”

4

4

4

Check The Diodes (See FIGURE 14.)

NOTE: Disassemble the alternator for this check and
the remainder of the alternator checks. The stator must
be disconnected from the diode assembly to do the fol-
lowing checks.

1. Use an ohmmeter with a 1.5 volt cell. Use the lowest
range scale to check the positive and negative diodes of
the rectifier bridge and the diode set.

NOTE: Some ohmmeters use a reverse polarity. The
“correct indications” will be opposite for these ohmme-
ters for Steps 3 and 4.

2. Find the electrical connection points on the diode as-
sembly for the three terminals “BAT”, “L”, and “E”.

3. Connect the positive ohmmeter lead to point “A”.
Connect the negative ohmmeter lead to the alternator
“BAT”, “L”, and “E” terminal connection points in se-
quence. Do this check again with the positive ohmmeter
lead at point “B” and again with the positive lead at point
“C”. The correct indications are a very low resistance or
a short–circuit between the positive and negative ohm-
meter leads for each of the nine checks. See
FIGURE 14. If there is an open circuit (infinity reading)
at any check, that diode is bad and must be replaced.

4. Do Step 3 again with the negative ohmmeter lead at
the test points “A” through “C”and the positive lead at
the connection points for the ammeter terminals. The
correct indications are an open–circuit between the neg-
ative and positive ohmmeter leads for each of the nine
checks. See FIGURE 14. If there is a short–circuit at any
check, that diode is bad and must be replaced.

Check Field Winding For The Rotor
(See FIGURE 15.)

1. Connect an ohmmeter to each slip ring and check for
open circuits. If the indication is high (infinity), the
winding has an open circuit. To check the resistance of
the field, connect the ohmmeter to the two slip rings.
The correct indication is 4.0 to 4.5 ohms. If the indica-
tion is less than the specification, there is a short circuit
in the windings. If the indication is greater than specifi-
cation, there is additional resistance in the windings.

2. To check the electrical ground, connect the ohmmeter
between either slip ring and the electrical ground as
shown in FIGURE 15. Replace the rotor if the indica-
tion is less than infinity.

NOTE: Make sure the needle in the ohmmeter always
returns to zero correctly. The indications will change
when the temperature of the winding changes.

16

FIGURE 15. ROTOR COIL CHECKS

9552

Check Windings In The Stator
(See FIGURE 16.)

1. Disconnect the soldered terminals (3) of the stator
lead wires with a solder iron. Separate the stator and rec-
tifier.

2. To check the stator windings for electrical ground,
connect an ohmmeter as shown in FIGURE 16. There
must be no continuity between any of the stator termi-
nals and the metal frame.

3. To check the stator for open circuits, connect the ohm-
meter or test lamp between each pair of wires to the sta-
tor, as shown in FIGURE 16. If the test lamp does not
illuminate or the meter indication is high, the windings
have an open circuit.

FIGURE 16. STATOR CHECKS

9555

Brushes And Bearings

1. Check each brush for a minimum brush length on the
shortest side of 7 mm (0.3 in).

2. Check the brush springs. Install a new spring when the
spring is broken or has rust or distortion. If brushes have
changed color from heat or they are weak, replace them.

3. Check brush holder for cracks or damage.

4. Check armature bearings for smooth operation. Bear-
ings must not be loose or have seal leaks.

Check The Voltage Regulator

Use a voltage regulator test device. Follow the direc-
tions that come with the test device. Do not use an ohm-
meter. If the voltage regulator has damage, replace the
voltage regulator.

17

TROUBLESHOOTING

PROBLEM

POSSIBLE CAUSE

PROCEDURE OR ACTION

Starter does not run or has slow
speed.

The battery is not fully charged or
is damaged.

The connections at the battery or
starter are loose or they have cor-
rosion.

Key switch is damaged.

Solenoid coil or switch contacts
have damage.

Brush springs in starter are dam-
aged.

Brush leads are broken or have a
short circuit.

Commutator in starter is dirty or
worn.

Armature winding in starter has
damage.

Field windings in starter have dam-
age.

Worn or damaged starter gears.

Bearings in starter are worn or
damaged.

Charge battery or install new battery.

Clean electrical terminals and con-
nectors.

Install a new key switch.

Install a new solenoid.

Install new brush springs.

Check and repair brush leads.

Clean and repair commutator.

Install new armature winding.

Install new field winding.

Repair starter.

Install new bearings.

Starter operates, but engine crank-
shaft does not rotate.

Wiring connections are broken,
loose, or have corrosion.

Starter clutch assembly has dam-
age.

Solenoid has damage and will not
keep the clutch assembly engaged.

Starter clutch assembly will not
move freely.

Gear teeth on starter clutch assem-
bly are damaged.

Gear teeth on ring gear are dam-
aged.

Repair wiring.

Repair or install a new starter.

Install a new solenoid.

Repair or install a new starter.

Repair or install a new starter.

Install a new flywheel.

Starter continues to run.

Contacts of solenoid are welded
together.

Solenoid coil has a short–circuit.

Spring that disengages the starter
clutch is broken.

Key switch is damaged.

Install a new solenoid.

Install a new solenoid.

Repair or install a new starter.

Install a new key switch.

Engine will not start – no spark or
weak spark.

Distributor has damage.

Coil has damage.

Key switch has damage.

Electronic module or sensing coil
has damage.

Install a new distributor.

Install a new coil.

Install a new key switch.

Install a new module or sensing coil.

18

TROUBLESHOOTING

PROBLEM

POSSIBLE CAUSE

PROCEDURE OR ACTION

Battery does not stay charged.

Battery terminals have corrosion.

Battery has damage inside the
case.

Drive belt for alternator is loose.

Wiring connections are broken,
loose, or have corrosion.

Short–circuit between wiring con-
nector(s).

Alternator brushes are worn.

Alternator brushes have weak
springs.

Alternator has dirty slip rings.

Stator coil for alternator has a
short–circuit.

Voltage regulator has damage.

Clean battery terminals.

Install a new battery.

Adjust drive belt.

Repair wiring connections.

Repair wiring connections.

Install new brushes.

Install new springs.

Clean the slip rings.

Install a new stator coil.

Install a new voltage regulator.

Battery is charged more than nec-
essary.

Wiring connections are broken,
loose or have corrosion.

Short–circuit between wiring con-
nector(s).

Field coil in alternator has damage.

Clean or repair wiring connections.

Clean or repair wiring connections.

Install a new field coil.