4 kanaly Remote Control UHF 433 Nieznany (2)

CK1616 - ROLLING CODE 4-CHANNEL UHF REMOTE CONTROL

This kit is almost exactly the same as the kit described in the accompanying article which was
published in the Australian electronics magazine Silicon Chip in 7/2002. We have permission from
Silicon Chip to supply a copy of the article and from Oatly Electronics to copy the PCB.

The only differences are that we have used a different brand relay, used different transistors with
opposite pinout, and added an extra Ground pad for convenience. Otherwise everything is the same.

Up to 15 Transmitter units can be learnt by one Rx unit. (The article says 16 but the technical
manual says 15.) Press button 1 (the button all by itself) while simultaneously pressing the LEARN
tact switch on the main board. You only have to do this briefly for under a second. But note it takes
about 15 seconds for the two units to internally connect and recognize each other. (During this 15
seconds it seems that one and only one keypress of the Tx unit will be recognised. Just disregard
this. Wait the full 15 seconds until the two units have connected. Do not press the LEARN button
again. Just wait 15 seconds.)

Tx units attached to any Rx unit can be unattached by pressing the LEARN button continuously for
8 seconds. The VALID DATA LED is on during these 8 seconds. As soon as the LED goes off
then you know that all Tx units previously recognized by the Rx unit have now been unattached
from the Rx unit.

We sell Tx units and Rx units separatel.

The article makes reference to assemblying the remote control Tx units. However, it is supplied
here full assembled, tested, with a battery included and ready to go.

Assembly. Here are some more details.
- we have supplied 3 pins which you may use if you wish in the ANTenna, Ground and 12V+
positions. We have put two places for the Ground connection: one is next to the 12V+ point, and the
other is on the opposite side of the PCB. Use which ever one best suits you best.

- follow the overlay for component placement.

ILICON

HIP

www.siliconchip.com.au

The nearest thing you can get to “unbreakable” . . .

This is one very clever remote control. With rolling code, it’s close-to-
impossible to electronically “crack”. With four channels, all either
latching or momentary operation, it’s extremely versatile. With a
sensitive prebuilt receiver, it’s long range. With up-to-16 keyring-size
transmitters, it’s go-anywhere. And the kit even includes the keyring!

By Ross Tester

A Rolling Code
4-channel UHF
Remote Control

Whether you want to

control a garage door or

gate, a car and/or home

alarm, or perhaps

remotely turn lights or

anything else on or off,

this high-security

system is just what

you’re looking for!

Inset top right are the

pre-built, aligned and

tested receiver (top) and

transmitter (bottom)

modules, shown here

same-size.

Whether you want to

control a garage door or

gate, a car and/or home

alarm, or perhaps

remotely turn lights or

anything else on or off,

this high-security

system is just what

you’re looking for!

Inset top right are the

pre-built, aligned and

tested receiver (top) and

transmitter (bottom)

modules, shown here

same-size.

ULY

2002

www.siliconchip.com.au

e’ve presented a number of

remote (radio) control dev-
ices in the past. None has

been more secure than this one. To
guess the code combination, you’re
going to need something like 23 bil-
lion years. But don’t bother: the next
time it’s used, the code will have
changed anyway.

That’s the advantage of a rolling

code (or “code hopping”) system. We
explain what this means, and does,
later in this article.

Suffice to say at this stage that it

makes one v-e-r-y secure system. For
all intents and purposes, it is impossi-
ble to electronically “crack”. Go on,
give it a go – we’ll see you in a few
million years or so!

The transmitter

It’s probably not necessary to say it

but there are two parts to this project,
a transmitter and a receiver.

First of all, there is

the tiny 4-channel
“key-ring” transmit-
ter which, fortunat-
ely, comes 99% pre-
assembled.

We say fortunately

because it’s just
about all SMD (sur-
face mount devices)
which, while not
impossible for the
hobbyist to work
with, requires some
rather special han-
dling. You are
spared that!

All you have to

do with the trans-
mitter PC board is
solder on the two
battery connectors
and place it in the case (with battery).

The battery contacts are slightly dif-

ferent: the one with a spring is for the
negative battery connection – it goes
on the righthand side of the PC board
with the only straight side of the PC
board at the bottom.

You may find, as we did, that some

of the holes for the battery connectors
are filled with solder. This is easily
melted during installation.

Once this is done, it’s just a matter of

assembling the board in its keyring case.
Incidentally, the keyring case and bat-
tery are all supplied in the kit.

The transmitter itself is in the li-

cence-free 433MHz LIPD band (it’s

SPECIFICATIONS

UHF (433MHz) licence-free (LIPD band) operation

Long range – prototype tested to 100m+

Pre-built and aligned transmitter & receiver modules

Rolling-code (“code hopping”) operation (7.3 x 10

codes)

Receiver “learns” transmitter coding

Receiver can handle up to 16 remotes

Transmitter can handle an

y number of receiver

4 channels available, each either momentar

y (push on, release

off) or latching (push on,

push off) via jumper

Code acknowledge LED and c

hannel status LEDs

Each channel relay contacts rated at 28VDC/12A

(single pole,

changeover)

12V DC operation (6mA quiescent;

150mA all relays actuated)

fact, anything your little heart desires.

The receiver/decoder

Now we move on to the heart of the

system, at least the bits you have to
put together to make it work.

In fact, there are two parts to the

receiver as well. There is a 433MHz
receiver module which comes assem-
bled, aligned and ready to go. This
solders into an appropriate set of holes
on the main PC board once you’ve
finished assembling that board.

The main PC board contains the

electronics which process the output
from the receiver.

The receiver checks the incoming

code and if valid, sends a signal to one
of four outputs depending on which
button was pressed on the transmitter).

From here, depending on how the

four jumpers are set on the board, the
signal goes either direct to an NPN
transistor relay driver (for momentary
operation – the relay is energised while

the button remains
pressed) or to a D-

type flipflop and

then to the transis-

tor relay driver (for

alternate operation –

press once and the

relay latches, press

again and the relay

releases).

The flipflops

change state (toggle)

each time a postive

going pulse appears

at the clock input.

This is achieved by

the connection from

the Q-bar output to

the D input via an RC

network.

The circuit has a

power-up reset. When

power is first applied,

the Q outputs of the flipflops are reset
low by the 0.1

F capacitor and 1M

Ω

resistor on the reset (S) inputs.

Reset is caused by sending the reset

inputs of all flipflops high. Once the
capacitor is charged, the voltage at the
reset inputs of the flipflops falls to
virtually zero, allowing normal op-
eration

It is perfectly acceptable to have a

mixture of momentary and latched
modes amongst the four channels. It’s
up to you.

But if you only require momentary

action (for example, as needed by

actually on 433.9MHz). As with most
devices of this type these days, it is
based on a SAW resonator (that stands
for surface acoustic wave, so now you
know!). This keeps the circuit very
simple but enables excellent perform-
ance.

Without wanting to get into the

nitty-gritty of SAW resonator opera-
tion, in essence it controls the RF side
of things while a dedicated chip con-
trols the complex digital coding.

The receiver (which we’ll get to

shortly) can handle up to 16 transmit-
ters so if you have a really big family
or maybe have a secure company
carpark you want to give a certain
number of people access to, you can
do so simply by purchasing more
transmitters.

The transmitter has four pushbut-

tons, one for each of the four channels.

Of course you don’t have to use all

four channels – just one will control

most garage door openers, for exam-
ple – but it’s nice to know there are
four channels available.

And before we move off the trans-

mitter, up to three channels can be
pressed simultaneously and the re-
ceiver will react to all three (it won’t
handle four at once, though).

Finally, as well as multiple trans-

mitters, you can use more than one
receiver if you wish.

Each receiver “learns” its trans-

mitter(s) so you can have a multiple
system controlling, for example, the
garage door, the car doors, the car
alarm, the home security system – in

ILICON

HIP

www.siliconchip.com.au

CLK

4.7k

0.1 F

10M

+5V

+12V

2.2k

LED1

LED2

LED3

LED4

RELAY1

RELAY2

RELAY3

RELAY4

COM

C8050

433MHz

RECEIVER

MODULE

433MHz

RECEIVER

MODULE

TEST

POINT

TEST

POINT

PB1

LEARN

LED5

ANTENNA

170mm

4-CHANNEL UHF “rolling code” REMOTE CONTROL RECEIVER

2002

IC1a

IC1b

IC2a

IC2b

IC1, IC2: 4013

D1- D4: 1N4004

GND

OUT

7805

LEDS

Q1- Q4

C8050

Q1- Q4

C8050

D1-4

IC1 PIN14,

IC2 PIN14

IC1 PIN14,

IC2 PIN14

COM

OUT

REG1 7805

100 F

0.1 F

+5V

+12V

GND

IC1 PIN7,

IC2 PIN7

IC1 PIN7,

IC2 PIN7

some door openers/closers) the flip-
flops, along with their associated RC
network components and the four
header pin jumper sets, could be left
out of circuit. (You’d then need four
links on the PC board to directly con-
nect the receiver outputs to their re-
spective transistors.)

Along with spike suppression di-

odes across each relay coil, part of
each relay driver circuit also includes

an acknowledge LED to give a visible
output of what’s happening.

There is also a “valid signal ac-

knowledge” LED attached to the
433MHz module, which lights when
valid code is being received.

Each of the four identical relays has

contacts rated at 28VDC & 12A, so can
be used to control significant loads.
The wide track widths on the PC board
also allow high currents.

The relay contacts could, of course,

also be used to switch higher-rated
relays or you could replace the ac-
knowledge LED with an opto-coupler.

The relays themselves are single

pole but have normally open (NO)
and normally closed (NC) contacts.
These states refer to the unenergised
state of the relay (ie, the NC contacts
go open when power is applied to the
relay coil and vice-versa).

Fig.1: the circuit of the “control” section of the receiver unit. We haven’t attempted to show the 433MHz receiver itself, nor
the transmitter, as these are both pre-assembled modules, saving you a lot of difficult work!

ULY

2002

www.siliconchip.com.au

The only other components on the

board are a simple 5V regulated sup-
ply, consisting of a 7805 3-terminal
regulator and a couple of capacitors.
This supply powers the 433MHz mod-
ule and the 4013 flipflops. The relay
coils are powered direct from the 12V
supply.

Construction

Start by soldering in the two battery

terminals to the transmitter PC board,
in the positions shown in the photo-
graphs.

Place the completed board in the

keyring case, making sure the push-
buttons stay in position.

Push the two halves together with

the battery in place (and the right way
around – see pictures), with the
keyring clip sandwiched between the
two halves.

One screw holds the two halves of

the transmitter case together.

Press each of the four buttons and

ensure that the LED lights each time.

ASSEMBLING THE
REMOTE CONTROL:

The photo above shows seven of the
eight parts you should find when you
take the bits out for the remote control
(the battery is missing!).
Above centre shows the two battery
connectors soldered in place on the
top of the PC board, above right shows
the same thing from the other side.
Don’t mix up the connector with
spring and the connector without.
Finally, the photo at right shows the
PC board in place, with battery, in one
half of the keyring case. The blue
pushbuttons are all on one plate – they
fit in as shown but can easily fall out.
As you push the two halves of the case
together, make sure the pushbutton
plate stays in place. The keyring itself
also fits into the notch in the case as
you push the two halves together.

If it does, you can be reasonably sure
that the transmitter is working prop-
erly. Put it to one side while we move
on to the receiver.

Receiver board

As usual, check the receiver PC

board for any defects before assembly.
Then solder in the resistors, capaci-
tors, diodes, IC sockets (if used) and
the four header pin sets (which select
momentary or latching function).

If you use IC sockets, make sure

they go in the right way around – the
notch is closest to the edge of the PC
board.

The “learn” pushbutton switch sol-

ders in place between the IC sockets.
These have two pairs of pins which
are not identically spaced – the switch
should be an easy fit in the PC board
if you get it the right way around. If in
doubt, check the “closed” state with
your multimeter.

Now solder in the semiconductors

– the regulator, diodes, transistors and

the LEDs as shown on the component
overlay. Watch the LED and transistor
polarities – each is opposite to its
neighbour!

The last things to be soldered in

place before the 433MHz receiver
module are the four relays and the six
output terminal blocks. The relays will
only go in one way but the terminal
blocks could be mounted back-to-
front, making it almost impossible to
get wires into them! (The “open” side
of the terminals go towards the edge
of the board, in case you were won-
dering!)

At this point, check your assembly

for any solder bridges, dry joints or
missed joints.

You might also now solder in the

three wires – two connect 12V power
while the third is the antenna. Make
the power leads the necessary length
to reach your supply.

When the antenna wire is soldered

in, measure exactly 170mm from the
PC board and cut the wire to this

ILICON

HIP

www.siliconchip.com.au

LED4

LED3

LED2

LED1

0.1 F

0.1

0.1 F

100 F

REG1 7805

100 F

IC2 4013

IC1 4013

C8050

RELA

TX1

PB1

LED5

ANT

LEARN

GND

+12V

VALID

DATA

10M

2.2k

4.7k

0.1

COM

+5V

DOUT

GND

ANT

GND

433MHz RECEIVER MODULE433MHz RECEIVER MODULE

length. This makes it resonant at
433MHz.

You should not have any bare

wire(s) emerging from the end of the
antenna – this could short onto some-
thing nasty and do you/it/something
else some damage! If necessary, wrap
a little insulation tape around the end
of the antenna wire – just in case!

Plug the two ICs into their sockets,

again watching the polarity. The
notches should line up with the
notches in the sockets (assuming you
got the sockets right!)

OK, we’re almost there. Place the

receiver module in its appropriate
holes along the edge of the PC board.
It will only go one way (incidentally,
take care not to move the coil or touch
the trimmer capacitor).

Solder each of the module pins into

position (there are 13 of them – don’t
forget the two by themselves) and your
receiver is finished.

Power supply

The receiver unit is designed for

12V battery operation and power re-
quirements are pretty modest. At rest,
(ie, no relays operating), it draws only
6mA and even with all relays actu-
ated, the current is just a smidgeon
under 150mA.

Therefore, most alarm-type batter-

ies (eg, SLAs) will be more than ad-
equate.

We had it operating for a couple of

weeks on a 7Ah 12V gell cell, periodi-
cally pressing the remote control just
for the hell of it, without recharging
the battery. In fact, at the end of this

time the battery voltage changed only
a few tens of millivolts – probably not
much more than you would expect
during shelf life.

Therefore, just about any 12V bat-

tery would be acceptable, even a cou-
ple of 6V lantern batteries in series or
even 10 C or D-size Nicads.

Of course, you could also use just

about any garden-variety 12V or 13.8V
DC (nominal) plug-pack supply.

The relays won’t worry about a few

extra volts and the circuit has the on-
board 5V regulator to ensure the elec-
tronics get the right voltage. Any DC
plugpack over about 200mA capacity
should be fine.

opposite way and all four buttons
should now pull in a relay and light a
LED while ever they are pressed – and
release it/dim it when let go.

And that’s just about it. Now all you

have to do is select the jumpers the
way you want them and connect the
external devices you wish to control.
Note that each relay has a normally
open and normally closed connection
as well as common, so you have a lot
of flexibility at your disposal.

Want even more security?

We mentioned before the one major

drawback with any remotely control-
led security application, whether that

Learning and testing

Looking at the board with the out-

puts/relays on the left side, move all
header pins to the right side (latch-
ing).

Apply power and you should see

absolutely nothing happen. So far, so
good.

Now press the “learn” button once,

then within 15 seconds press button
one on the keyring transmitter for a
second or so. Button one is the one all
by itself on one side of the transmitter.
The receiver then learns the encryp-
tion from the keyring transmitter –
and remembers it.

Now all four buttons on your trans-

mitter should alternately close and
open the appropriate relay and light/
switch off its associated LED.

Change the four jumpers over to the

Fig.2 (above): the
component overlay
of the receiver
module with the
full-size
photograph at
right. Just to
confuse you, we’ve
shown the board
turned 180°
compared to the
diagram above!

ULY

2002

www.siliconchip.com.au

These two names usually refer to the same thing – in a nutshell,

a security system for a security system.

It’s a way of preventing unauthorised access to a digital code

which might be transmitted via a short-range radio link to do
something: open a garage door, lock or unlock a car and perhaps
turn its own security system on and off – and much more.

But before we look at these terms, though, let’s go back in time

to the days before code hopping and rolling code.

Short-range radio-operated control devices have been around

for a couple of decades or so (at least, in any volume). The earliest
ones that I remember simply used a burst of RF, at a particular
frequency, with an appropriate receiver.

It’s not hard to see the shortcomings of such devices. Simply

sweeping the likely band(s) with an RF generator attached to an
antenna would more often than not achieve the desired result
(desired for the intruder, that is).

It didn’t take long for crooks to latch on to this one (do you like

that metaphor?). So manufacturers decided to make it a bit harder
for them by modulating the RF at a frequency (or indeed multiple
frequencies in some cases) “known” to the receiver.

Some used the standard DTMF tones generated by phone

keypads because they were very cheap and made in the millions.

“Oh, gee,” said the crooks. Now we’ll have to use an RF

oscillator with a modulator. Or maybe even a DTMF keypad!”

Duh! (Still, it probably seemed like a good idea at the time. . .)
Ever one step ahead, the manufacturers went with this (then)

new-fangled digital stuff and made each transmitter send a par-
ticular code which was matched to the receiver. This was usually
done by way of DIP switches in both transmitter and receiver.

With eight DIP switches (probably the most common because

8-way DIP switches were common!), you would have 2

or 256

codes available. So you and your next-door neighbour could have
the same type of garage door opener on the same frequency and
the odds would be pretty good that their door would stay down
when you pressed your button.

The problem with this, though, is that the transmitter spurted

out exactly the same code every time (unless, of course, both sets
of dip switches were changed). Enter the crooks again.

With a suitable receiver, called a “code grabber”, if they got

within a few tens of metres of you they could scan for the RF signal
and record your code without you knowing anything about it (for
example, as you left your car in a carpark and pressed the button
on your remote to lock the doors and turn on the alarm).

Once you’d gone, they simply “played it back” using the same

code grabber. Presto, one missing car. Or one house burgled, etc
etc.

Even without a code grabber, a smart intruder with the right

equipment using digital techniques and trying eight combinations
per second, could crack the code in no more than 32 seconds –
and probably much quicker.

It’s hard to believe the gall of some organisations openly

flogging such devices, euphemistically disguising them (justifying
them?) with names such as vehicle lockout recovery systems or
disabled vehicle recovery systems. Then again, lock picks are sold
for professional locksmiths, aren’t they?

Now we move on a little. Microchip, the same people who

brought you those ubiquitous PICs, invented a system called
K

– better known to you and me as a rolling code.

What this does is simply present a different code every time the

transmitter button is pressed. Of course, that’s the easy part. The
really clever part is that the receiver “learns” the algorithm which
controls the code so it knows what code to expect. Once learnt, the
receiver is effectively “locked” to that transmitter.

Actually, it’s even cleverer than that, because the transmitted

code is, for all intents and purposes, random (as far as any
external device is concerned). But the receiver can still work out
what the code is going to be in advance. If it gets the right code, it
actuates. If not – you’re out in the cold, baby!

The chances of the same code being transmitted twice in a

person’s lifetime is possible – but remote (at four transmissions
per day, every day, it’s reckoned to be about 44 years!)

Heart of this system is a Microchip proprietary IC, the HC301. It

combines a 32-bit hopping code generated by a nonlinear
encryption algorithm with a 28-bit serial number and six informa-
tion bits to create a 66-bit code word. The code word length
eliminates the threat of code scanning and the code-hopping
mechanism makes each transmission unique, rendering code
capture and resend techniques useless.

Even if it didn’t code-hop, 66 bits allows 7.3 x 10

combina-

tions, which according to Microchip would only take
230,000,000,000 years to scan!

The chip itself is also protected against intrusion. Several

important data are stored in an EEPROM array which is not
accessible via any external connection. These include the crypt
key, a unique and secret 64-bit number used to encrypt and
decrypt data, the serial number and the configuration data.

The EEPROM data is programmable but read-protected. It can

be verified only after an automatic erase and programming opera-
tion, protecting against attempts to gain access to keys or to
manipulate synchronisation values.

If the code is changed every time a button is pressed on the

transmitter, what happens if, say a child starts playing with the
remote control and continually presses buttons away from the
receiver? OK, here’s where it gets really clever (and you thought it
was clever enough already, didn’t you?).

If the button is pressed say 10 times while out of range of the

receiver, no problem. But if it is pressed more than 16 times,
synchronisation between the two is lost. However, it only takes
two presses of a button in range to restore sync. No, we don’t
know how either. That’s Microchip’s secret!

And speaking of button presses, there are a couple of other

clever things they’ve done. At most, a complete code will take
100ms to send (it could be as low as 25ms). But if you manage to
hit the button and release it before 100ms (difficult, but possible),
it will keep sending that complete code. If you hold down the
button, it will keep sending that same code. And if you press
another button while the first is held down, it will abort the first and
send the second.

As you can see, K

is a very robust system. Sure, it’s not

absolutely foolproof – nothing is (eg, there’s not much protection
if they simply steal your transmitter!). But for most users, it gives
almost total peace-of-mind. That’s why the system has been
adopted by so many vehicle entry/exit and alarm system manufac-
turers, access controllers and so on.

And that’s the system that’s used in the remote control unit

presented here.

What is “Code Hopping” or “Rolling Code”

ILICON

HIP

www.siliconchip.com.au

Parts List

–

4-Channel Code-Hopping Remote Control

1 TX-4312RSA 4-channel keyring rolling code transmitter assembly
1 RX3302D A1.5 433MHz rolling code receiver module
1 PC board, coded K180, 86 x 78mm
4 miniature relays, SPDT, PCB mounting, 12V coils (Millionspot H5000xx)
1 ultramini pushbutton switch, PC mounting, N-O contacts
6 interlocking 2-way terminal blocks, PC mounting
2 14-pin DIL IC sockets (optional)
4 3-way header pin sets, PC mounting
Red & black insulated hookup wire for power connection
1 200mm length insulated hookup wire for antenna (see text)

Semiconductors
2 4013 dual “D” flipflops (IC1, IC2)
4 NPN general purpose transistors (C8050 or similar) (Q1-Q4)
1 7805 3-terminal regulator (REG1)
4 1A power diodes, 1N4004 or similar (D1-D4)
4 red LEDS, 5mm (LED1-LED4)
1 green LED, 5mm (LED 5)

Capacitors
2 100

F, 16VW PC mounting electrolytics

7 0.1

F polyester or ceramic (monolithic 5mm)

Resistors
4 10M

Ω

1 1M

Ω

4 4.7k

Ω

4 2.2k

Ω

1 1k

Ω

RELAY

CIRCUIT

TO BE

SWITCHED

RELAY

CIRCUIT

TO BE

SWITCHED

Fig.3a (left): conventional device
control with one relay. Adding a
second relay in series (fig 3b, right)
increases security against the casual
button pusher. Both buttons must be
pressed at the same time for the
device to actuate.

A close-up look at the receiver module soldered into the main PC board. Do this
last, as explained in the text.

be for a car, a building or anything
else: what happens if someone pinches
your remote control?

It is possible to protect yourself

against the casual button pusher on a
stolen control – at least to some de-
gree.

Having four channels at your dis-

posal, in this remote control system,
gives you the possibility of increasing
security rather significantly, simply
by using a combination of keys on
your remote.

It is “normal” to use one button to

achieve a certain function. But what if
you used two buttons? It’s possible
because when you press the second
button, even while holding down the

first, the second button’s code is sent.

So if you made one button a “mo-

mentary” and linked another button’s
relay contacts through the first but-
ton’s relay contacts, you have the situ-
ation where pressing single buttons
(as most people would do) wouldn’t

Wheredyageddit?

This project and the PC board are
copyright © 2002 Oatley Electron-
ics.
Oatley have made separate kits
available for both the transmitter
and receiver, due to the fact that
you might want more than one of
each (as explained in the text).
Rolling Code Transmitter Kit:
Complete with pre-assembled
transmitter module PC board, bat-
tery contacts, battery, clamshell
case and keyring clip: (TX4) $25.00.
Rolling Code Receiver Kit:
Has the 433MHz receiver module,
PC board and all on-board compo-
nents as described in this article:
(K180) $54.00.

Oatley Electronics can be con-
tacted by: Phone (02) 9584 3563;
Fax (02) 9584 3561; Mail (PO Box
89. Oatley NSW 2223); Email (sales
@oatleyelectronics.com); Or via
their website: www.oatleyelectro-
nics.com

achieve a thing.

Only you know which two buttons

(or even three buttons) have to be
pressed to achieve a certain function.

Fig.3 shows what we mean – the

exact combination of buttons is en-
tirely up to you!

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