Patchwork Quilt Tutorial

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

Cottage Quilt Designs Tutorials

Basic Tips About Making A Quilt

To Remove Wash Out Marker Lines from Quilting Designs

· After the quilt is quilted and the binding is on you can completely

remove the marks by soaking the quilt in a cold water bath in the
washer. You may also agitate the quilt for a short time. Run the
washer through the spin dry cycle. Check the quilt to make sure all
the marks are gone. Dry the quilt in the dryer under delicate heat.

Squaring Your Blocks
· This is an important step to do if you want your quilt top to be square

and flat when the borders are added. Make a sample block. Check
the measurement of the block to see if it is the size required for your
quilt. If it’s not then find out the reason why. Are the corner triangles
not full enough? Then maybe you can increase the size of the triangle
by an 1/8” so that it fills up the corner. Maybe the size of the triangle
is right but you haven’t centered it when you added it to the block.
The seam allowances should be ¼” all around the block. If they are
wider then ¼” then you can trim the excess away. Sometimes half
square triangles will iron out of shape and need to be trimmed. You
can get away with a seam allowance that is between 1/8” and a ¼”. It
it’s less then 1/8” then you need to fix the problem now or your seams
will pull apart during quilting or after when the quilt is used or washed.

Washing Your Fabric
· To decide whether to wash your fabric or not can be a struggle for

quilters. Dark colors can run when wet and it ruins the look of your
quilt if that happens. I have found that solids or tonals have that
problem more then prints. I like to rub a wet cutip on the fabric. If

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

fabric dye is going to run when wet then the white cutip will pick up
the dye. If it runs then you can wash your fabrics separately in a dye
stablizer in the washer before any cutting is done. You can also
stablize fat quarters or charm pieces by soaking them in a bowl. I
personally like the antique look of a quilt when the fabric is not
washed before sewing and then washed after the binding is on. The
fabric shrinks slightly around the quilting lines. But I only do that if I
am sure that the fabric dye won’t run or bleed. Some quilters don’t
want to take any chances with their quilts and always wash the fabric.
The choice is up to you!

Seam Allowances
· Using a ¼’ seam allowance in quilting is standard in all patterns. A

quilter new to the craft can find that difficult when using her sewing
machine and trying to follow the engraved marks beside the needle
and foot. I have found the best solution is to purchase a ¼” foot from
the maker of my sewing machine and use that for all my quilting
seams. It takes away all the frustration of keeping your seam width
even as you feed the edge of the seam allowance along the side of
the foot.

Setting Triangles
· It is very important to keep the grain of the fabric correct when you

cut out the setting triangles for your quilt. Just remember that you
need to cut out four triangles at a time instead of two for setting
triangles. I’ll show you why:

The arrows show the direction of the grain in the

fabric weave in a square. When the square is cut
in half down the middle to make two triangles
the grain becomes different along the new edge.

The new cut is called a bias cut because a square cut down the middle
has a 45º angle to the cut. Bias cuts are stretchy and will cause the
problem of waving when borders are added. The borders will not lay flat
but will have hills and valleys. The only solution is to recut your triangles.

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

Here is how setting triangles should be cut for your quilt:

Because the bias cuts are inside the square the outside long edge of the
triangle keeps the straight of the grain and won’t wave when the borders
are added. The squares are usually cut oversized so when the triangles
are added to the quilt you can trim the edges envely all around the quilt.

So how do you figure out how big to cut the squares? The pattern you
are following will give you that information. But if you are creating your
own pattern then just take your block measurement and add 3” to the
number. Cut your square and make the two bias cuts and add the
setting triangles to your quilt.

Corner triangles need the bias along the long edge so just cut the
oversized square down the center.

The long bias edge is sew to the end of the block row to make the corner.
When all the rows are sewn together then you can trim the outside edges
to a ¼” seam allowance.

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

Basting a Quilt for Hand Quilting

Supplies Needed

· White or a contrasting thread color to the quilt
· Masking tape
· Quilting safety pins
· Long basting needles or curved needles
· Scissors

1. Press your quilt top front and back making sure that

intersection seam allowances are pressed open and that
seam allowances are flat.

2. Mark your quilt top with quilting designs if desired. Don’t

press the top after marking because the heat from the iron
can set the marks permanently into the fabric if you are
using wash out markers.

3. Piece your backing and press open the seams.
4. Lay the backing with the seam allowance on the top facing

you on the floor or a large table. It will be covered with the
batting.

5. With masking tape, tape the corners and along the sides in

several places. Stretch the backing tight enough as you tape
it so that when you stroke the backing with your hand it
doesn’t move. Making the backing taunt will prevent wrinkles
from forming on the back as you baste the layers.

6. Lay out your batting on the backing centering it and

smoothing out all wrinkles.

7. Lay your quilt top on top of the batting centering it with equal

widths of batting and backing beyond the quilt’s edges. Ease
out the wrinkles but make sure you are not distorting the
shape. That can be easy to do with cotton batts.

8. Pin the layers with quilting safety pins every six inches.

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

9. Remove the tape around the edges of the backing. If the

quilt is on the floor you can move it to a table surface now for
basting.

Basting with Thread
1. Prepare your needles with a long length of threadabout 18”

to 24” long.

2. I have found using curved needles made for tieing quilts are

very useful as the tip of the needle dips into the layers and
curves back out again. It saves your fingers underneath the
quilt from getting pricked so often as you stitch the length
and width of your quilt.

3. You will be stitching a grid across the quilt with stitching lines

8” to 12” apart. The lines don’t need to be closer because
you will be using a quilting frame to hand quilt. Start at the
center edge of one side and baste with long stitches to the
other side.

Start here

Add the second line the length of the quilt.

Then fill in the grid across the width and length every 8” to

12” according to the size of your quilt.

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

4. Remove the safety pins from the quilt. You are ready now to

handquilt your quilt.

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

Basting Your Quilt for Machine Quilting

Supplies

· Quilting Safety Pins
· Masking Tape

1. Iron your quilt top making sure the intersection points are pressed

open and that the seam allowances are flat.

2. Mark your quilt with quilting designs after all the ironing is done. The

lines from wash out markers will become permanent in the fabric if
ironed.

3. Piece your backing and press open the seams.
4. Lay the backing with the seam allowances facing you on the floor or a

large table. The batting will cover the seam allowances.

5. Tape the corners and several places along the sides with masking

tape. Stretch the backing taunt as you tape the edges. Stroke your
hand across the backing. If it doesn’t move then you have made it
taunt enough. This will prevent wrinkles from forming on the back
while you machine quilt.

6. Lay out and center the batting on the backing. Smooth out the

wrinkles.

7. Lay out and center the quilt top on the batt. Smooth out the top but

not enough to distort the shape of the quilt. That can be easy to do
with cotton batts.

8. Pin the layers together every 2” to 3”. Placing the pins close together

keeps the quilt layers from moving while you are machine quilting.

9. Remove the masking tape from around the backing edges. Your quilt

is now ready for machine quilting.

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

Freezer Paper Applique Method

This is the method I use when creating my applique blocks and quilts. I love
it because it gives consistent shapes to sew to the block. Also because the
preparation work is done first and all you have to do is position the piece on
your block and sew! Using this method is also good when you are
designing a block. Your shapes are the finished size and you can see
exactly how they fit around each other and within the block size.

Materials needed:

· Freezer paper
· Pencil
· Paper scissors
· Fabric scissors
· Applique or sequin pins (extra short pins with small heads)
· Background fabric block
· Applique fabric and matching thread
· Size 10 applique needle called sharps (not the needle called

betweens which is a hand quilting needle)

· Iron and pad

1. Draw a reversed template of the shape on the paper side of the

freezer paper.

2. Cut out the template on the line and press the plastic side of the

paper to the back of the fabric you will use with an iron.

3. Cut out the shape from the fabric leaving a 3/8” seam allowance

around the template.

4. Clip the seam allowance around the template almost to but not

touching the template. Clipping around curves are essential to getting
smooth curves. The inside corners should be all the way to the paper
template as shown in the heart below:

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

I usually clip every 1/8” to get smooth curves. Clipping too close to

the template can cause fraying when you turn back the seam allowance. I’ll
tell you how to handle that problem later in the troubleshooting section.

5. Load your needle with white thread and knot it with a single knot.
6. Let’s assume you are holding the heart shape in your hand with the

paper side of the template facing you.

7. Fold over one of clipped sections to the back of the shape. I like to

start on the side of the heart. Push your needle from the right side
of the shape through to the back facing you and pull through to the
knot through the clipped section you just folded over.

8. Fold down the next section and stitch through it to the other side.

Continue to baste all around the heart shape.

9. The point of the heart is handled a different way. Fold over the end

of the seam allowance to the back at the tip. Make a mitered fold
on both sides of the point and baste down.

10. Press the shape front and back to get a good edge crease all

around the shape.

11. Position the applique shape where you want it to be and pin down

with a short pin.

12. Start sewing it down with an applique stitch on one long side of

the heart. Continue sewing until half way around the heart. Stop
and remove the basting stitches. Pull out the basting thread and

freezer paper template. Continue sewing down the rest of the heart.

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

Troubleshooting Problems

· My fabric is fraying at the turned edge where I clipped the seam

allowance:

That happens when you clip too close to the paper template and it frays as
the seam allowance is turned back. You can do two things. One is to use a
drop of Fray Check on the frayed spot. Stroke the frayed thread under the
edge of the applique piece and sew down. The other option is to wet a
wooden toothpick and stroke the frayed threads down under the piece. The
toothpick picks up the theads and tucks them down nicely. Continue sewing
around your patch.

· There isn’t enough fabric to turn under at the inside corner of my

heart:

That will always happen no matter how wide the crevice is at the inside
point of the heart. So all you have to do is take tiny stitches as you
approach the inside corner that bite in deeper inside the heart shape. It will
be like embroidering the inside corner to the background block to keep your
heart edge secure to the block.

· I have a hard time removing my paper template. It’s stuck!

After I remove the basting thread around the shape I like to use the handle
of my seam ripper to break the fusion between the paper and the fabric
shape. I just gently insert the handle between the paper and shape and
push it all around the inside and especially inside any points. When that is
done I remove my seam ripper and gently tug on the paper template. It
usually pops out just fine. By the way, you should be able to reuse the
paper shapes 4 or 5 times before they become too ragged from the needle
holes on the sides.

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

How to Make Bias Vines

Materials needed:

· Bias Bars
· Sewing Machine
· Scissors
· Rotary Cutter
· Mat with a Printed 45º Line On It
· Rotary Cutting Ruler
· Fabric
· Iron and Pad

1. Open fabric so it lies flat on the cutting mat. Press to remove the fold

seam if it is wrinkled before you begin cutting strips.

2. Lay the bottom left corner of the fabric on the mat so that the left and

bottom edges of the fabric line up with the 5” vertical and horizontal
cutting line printed on the mat.

1 2 3 4 5

45º printed

line

3. On the mat you will see the 45º printed line running across the mat

under the fabric.

4. Line up your ruler along the line on top of the fabric and make your

first cut across the corner of the fabric. Discard corner for other uses.

5. Now cut 1 ¼” strips from your bias edge. Cut as many as you will

need for your project. Strips may be joined with mitered seams if the

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

length needed for your project is longer than the strips you are
cutting.

Making Mitered Seams When Joining Strips

1. Trim the ends of the bias strips at an 45º angle all pointing the same

direction.

2. Pair two strips right sides together having the pointed ends extend ¼”

beyond the edges.

sew a ¼” seam across strips

3. Sew a ¼” seam across the strips. Continue adding strips to make the

length you need.

4. Press open the seams.

Using the Bias Bars

1. Pull out the ¼” bias bar out of the package if that is the finished size

you want for your bias strips. That is the size I usually use in my
applique projects.

2. Fold your bias strips in half lengthwise with wrong sides together.
3. Sew a ¼” seam along the length of the folded strip.

4. Trim the ¼” seam in half to leave 1/8” along the seam.
5. Insert the bar into the tube and fold the seam allowance to the back.

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

6. Press the tube with the iron on the front and back to get a firm crease

on both sides of the strip. Make sure that the stitching can’t be seen
from the front of the strip.

7. Continue to push the bar up through the strip and fold back the seam

allowance as you press the entire strip.

8. Remove the bias bar and press the strip again if the fold is not firm

enough.

9. Cut the prepared bias strip into the length you need for your project.

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

Transferring Applique Designs to Blocks

Materials Needed:

· Applique block design
· Light box or tracing paper
· Pencil
· Fabric background block
· Prepared applique shapes

You can use the light box or tracing paper with either prepared fusible web
shapes or shapes prepared for hand applique.

Light Box

You can either use a light box sold by various quilting stores or catalogs or
make one yourself. I find that I like to use a bigger lighted surface then the
size of the light boxes you can purchase. I have an old window saved from
when we put in new windows in our cottage home. I open the dining room
table and remove one of the leaves. I put the window on top of the table
centering it over the open space. Then I turn on a lamp on the floor under
the window. After taping my design on the window so it won’t move around
I then put my block on the design sheet. I can then easily see the drawn
lines through the fabric. You can also use a sheet of glass if you don’t have
an old window. You can also use this method to mark quilt tops before
quilting.

Tracing Paper

With a pencil trace the block design onto a square of tracing paper. The
square should be the same size of the fabric block so that you can line up
the edges and get the design placed correctly on your block. Center the
design inside the square when you trace it. Pin the top of the paper to the
block so that it can be flipped up and down to add pieces and stitch them
down after you have drawn the design.

I like to use this method when there are multiple layers of shapes and the
bottom ones hide the lines when a light box is used.

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Educational purposes require that credit be given to Cottage Quilt Designs.

Commercial use of this tutorial is prohibited without written consent of Cottage Quilt Designs.

The first applique shape to be sewn down should be the one that is behind
all the others. You will build your block one piece at a time adding each
shape that goes on top of the last one. For an example: the stem of a
flower is stitched on first. Then the leaves on the stem are added. Then the
petals of the flower are added next with the flower center added last to the
top of the flower.

Picking up the first shape to be stitched down, you will slide it between the
tracing paper and the background block to the place where the shape is
penciled on the paper. Pin the shape to the block with applique pins. Flip
back the tracing paper and stitch down your shape. Repeat this method to
add all the shapes in your block design. Remove the pins and tracing
paper. Press the block upside down on a towel with an iron. Trim the block
to it’s finished size after the block is done.

Downloaded by: Debra Huffaker - 1/23/2008 - DUPLICATION PROHIBITED - Downloaded at www.youcanmakethis.com

Wyszukiwarka

Podobne podstrony:
patchwork quilt
Patchwork Tulip Garden Quilt
Patchwork Tulip garden quilt
bugzilla tutorial[1]
freeRadius AD tutorial
Alignmaster tutorial by PAV1007 Nieznany
free sap tutorial on goods reciept
ms excel tutorial 2013
Joomla Template Tutorial
ALGORYTM, Tutoriale, Programowanie
8051 Tutorial uart
B tutorial
Labview Tutorial
Obraz partycji (ghost2003) Tutorial
[LAB5]Tutorial do kartkówki
M2H Networking Tutorial Original
ABAQUS Tutorial belka z utwierdzeniem id 50029 (2)
eagle tutorial
c language tutorial

więcej podobnych podstron