I N S T A L L A T I O N I N S T R U C T I O N S

INSTALLER/OWNER RESPONSIBILITY

Beautiful hardwood floors are a product of nature and are therefore imperfect. Our wood floors are
manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit grading deficien-
cies not to exceed 5%. The deficiency may be of a manufacturing or natural type.

• The installer assumes all responsibility for final inspection of product quality. This inspection of

all flooring should be done before installation. Carefully examine flooring for color, finish and
quality before installing it. If material is not acceptable, contact the seller immediately. Should
an individual piece be doubtful as to grade, manufacture or factory finish, the installer should
not use the piece.

• Prior to installation of any hardwood flooring product, the installer must determine that the

job-site environment and the sub-surfaces involved, meet or exceed all requirements as stipu-
lated in the installation instructions. The manufacturer declines any responsibility for job
failure resulting from or associated with sub-surface or job-site environment deficiencies.

• The installer/owner has final inspection responsibility as to grade, manufacture and factory

finish. He must use reasonable selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces with glaring defects
whatever the cause.

• Stain, filler or putty stick must be used to improve appearance during installation. The use of

such items is accepted as normal installation procedure.

• When flooring is ordered, 5% must be added to the actual square footage needed for cutting

and grading allowance.

CAUTION! WOOD DUST

Sawing, sanding or machining wood products can produce wood dust. Airborne wood dust can
cause respiratory, eye and skin irritation. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC)
has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen in humans.

Precautionary Measures If Power Tools Are Used:

The power tools should be equipped with a dust collector. If high dust levels are encountered,
use an appropriate NIOSH-designated dust mask. Avoid dust contact with eyes and skin.

First Aid Measures In Case of Irritation:

In case of irritation, flush eyes or skin with water for at least 15 minutes.

TOOLS & ACCESSORIES NEEDED

• Broom
• Pencil
• Safety glasses
• Matching filler
• Moisture meter (wood, concrete or both)
• Wall mouldings as needed
• Hand saw, table saw, circular saw or band saw

• Tape measure
• Vinyl/plastic tapping block
• Carpenter square
• Hammer or rubber mallet
• Tapping block and pull-bar
• Utility knife
• NIOSH –designated dust mask
• PVA wood glue

PRE-INSTALLATION RECOMMENDATIONS AND PROCEDURES

JOB SITE INSPECTION

The building should be closed in with all outside doors and windows in place. All concrete,
masonry, framing members, drywall, paint and other wet work should be thoroughly dry.

• The wall coverings should be in place and the painting completed except for the final coat on

the base moulding. When possible, delay installation of base moulding until flooring installa-
tion is complete.

• Exterior grading should be complete with surface drainage directing water away from the

building. All gutters and downspouts should be in place.

• Engineered flooring may be installed below, on or above grade.

• Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated.

• Crawl space must be a minimum of 24" (600 mm) from the ground to underside of joists. A

ground cover of 6-8 mil black polyethylene film is essential as a vapor barrier with joints
lapped six inches and taped. Crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to 1.5% of the
crawl space square footage. These vents should be properly located to foster cross ventilation.

• Subfloor (wood or concrete) must be checked for moisture content using the appropriate

testing method.

• Permanent air conditioning and heating systems should be in place and operational. The

installation site should have a consistent room temperature of 60-75º F and humidity of 35-
55% for three days prior, during and until occupied, to allow for proper acclimation.

STORAGE AND HANDLING

Handle and unload with care. Store in a dry place being sure to provide at least a four-inch air
space under cartons, which are stored upon "on-grade" concrete floors. Flooring shall not be
delivered until the building has been closed in with windows and doors in place and until
cement work, plastering and all other "wet" work is completed and dry. Concrete should be at
least 60 days old. Engineered flooring should be installed in the environment in which it is
expected to perform. Air conditioning/heating systems should be in place and in operation at
least 14 days prior, during and after installation of the flooring.

SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS:

Engineered flooring can be installed over most subfloors and existing floors on all grade levels.
All substrates must meet or exceed all applicable building
codes and be:

• CLEAN – Scraped, broom clean, and smooth, free of wax,

paint, oil or debris.

• FLAT – Within 3/16" in 10' and/or 1/8" in 6'. Sand high

areas or joints. Fill low areas (no more than 1/8") with a
cementitous leveling compound or milk additive latex
patch of 3,000-PSI minimum compressive strength. Follow
the instructions of the leveling compound manufacturer.
Leveling compounds must be tested for moisture to ensure they are within the specified
requirements for proper installation.

• STRUCTURALLY SOUND – Nail or screw any loose areas that squeak. Replace any water-dam-

aged sub-flooring or underlayments. Subfloor must have minimal vertical movement (deflec-
tion).

• DRY – Check moisture of subfloor. Moisture content of wood subfloor must not exceed 14%

on a wood moisture meter, or read more than a 5% difference than moisture level of product
being installed.

ACCEPTABLE SUBFLOOR TYPES:

• Concrete slabs
• Acoustic concrete
• CDX grade plywood
• Existing solid wood flooring
• Full spread vinyl, vinyl tile and cork tile

• Ceramic and terrazzo tile
• Underlayment grade chip, waferboard, parti-

cleboard and oriented strand board (OSB)

• Fully adhered carpet (no pad)

Note: Underlayment must have all joints sealed (taped) over all subfloors except for
wood or wood composite materials.

S U B F L O O R P R E P A R A T I O N

Concrete Slabs

Engineered flooring can be installed directly over concrete. Visual checks are not reliable.
Acceptable test methods for subfloor moisture content include:
• A 3% phenolphthalein in anhydrous Alcohol Solution – Chip the concrete (do not apply

directly to the concrete surface). Apply several drops of the solution to the chipped area. If any
color change occurs, further testing is required.

• Calcium Chloride Test – The maximum moisture transfer must not exceed 5#/1000 square feet

with this test. Test several areas, especially near exterior walls and walls containing plumbing.

• Tramex Concrete Moisture Encounter Meter – Moisture readings should not exceed 5.5 on the

upper scale.

• Polyfilm Test – Tape 3" x 3" pieces of polyethylene film to the subfloor and leave in place for 24

hours. Assure all edges are completely sealed. Darkened concrete or condensation on film indi-
cates presence of moisture and requires testing with Tramex Meter or Calcium Chloride.

Wood Subfloors & Wood Structural Panel Subfloors

• Make sure existing floor or subfloor is dry and well nailed or screwed down every 6" along

each joist to avoid squeaking or popping before the floor is installed. The wood subfloor must
not exceed 14% moisture content. Measure moisture content of subfloor to determine proper
moisture content with a reliable wood moisture meter.

• All underlayment panels should be spaced 1/8" apart to ensure adequate expansion space or

have the space cut around the perimeter using a circular saw. T&G panels normally have built
in expansion; DO NOT cut around their perimeter. Plywood: Must be rated CDX minimum.

• Oriented Strand Board (OSB): Must be PS-2 rated sheathing grade installed sealed side down.
• Particleboard: Must be a minimum 40 lbs. density, underlayment grade.

Resilient Tile & Resilient Vinyl Sheet

• Make certain that tiles or sheet goods are well bonded. Remove and replace materials as nec-

essary to maintain a structurally sound floor. (Note: Do not sand any resilient products for they
may contain asbestos fibers, which may be harmful.)

Ceramic and Terrazzo Tile

• All tiles with grout lines that exceed 1/4" must be filled with a cementitous leveling com-

pound mixed with latex additive. Loose tiles must be re-adhered to the subfloor or filled as
above. Surface should be relatively smooth. Tile types such as Saltillo may require filling with
cementitous leveling compound mixed with latex additive.

Carpet

• Carpet must be fully adhered and no more then 1/4" thick without a pad over suspended

wood subfloors ONLY. Remove all other types of carpet. Do not use underlayment. Carpet must
be covered with 6-mil polyethylene. Joints need not be sealed.

Before you start:

• Before installing the planks, central heat or air conditioning should be operating for 14 days.
• Planks should be stored in a flat position.
• Store planks in the room where it is to be installed. Do not open the packages until installation

begins.

• Install only at room temperature above 60˚ F under 35-55% humidity conditions.
• In rooms with under-floor (radiant) heating, the surface temperature of the subfloor may not,

under any circumstances, exceed 85˚ F. Increasing heat should be done in 5-degree incre-
ments. Ascertain that the subfloor is properly engineered or controlled for the flooring being
installed. Subfloors designed for materials with higher R-values, such as carpet, WILL damage
the flooring. Installations that include multiple floor covering products on a single heating cir-
cuit must be adjusted for the flooring product with the LOWEST R rating or temperature
requirement.

Do not install in areas of high moisture incidence such as bathrooms
and powder rooms.

• If possible remove all wall mounted moldings such as base and quarter-round.
• Undercut door mouldings with a hand or jamb saw to allow for ease of installation and 1/2" of

expansion space in all directions. (See figure 1)

• Depressions in a subfloor should be leveled with a leveling compound.

Raised sections must be sanded down to meet 3/16" in 10' specification
for flat substrate. Always re-check for moisture after using a
leveling/patching compound.

• Remove all surface dust, loose debris and organic materials.

To plan your pattern layout, use the following steps

• Decide the direction of the floor installation in the room. Planks installed

parallel to windows accent the floor the best. Floors should be installed
perpendicular to the floor joists. Stiffen subfloors as necessary to prevent
vertical movement. (See figure 2)

• Measure the width of the room at five points, noting any uneven or wall

variations. Preplan the number of 5" wide rows of planks that will be
required to complete the installation. The final row will normally be nar-
rower than the others and will have to be ripped lengthwise. NOTE: The
last row should not be narrower than 2". If the walls are uneven or the
last plank is less than 2", it may be necessary to rip both the first and last
row.

I N S T A L L I N G T H E F L O O R

Laying the Underlayment

1. Install the underlayment in the same direction that the flooring will be installed. (See figure 3)
2. Butt edges together; do not overlap them.
3. The joints need not be sealed unless the installation is over con-

crete or other existing floor covering materials other than wood or
wood composites.

Installing first row

1. Select a board to begin installation of the first row.
2. Starting from the right with the tongue facing the wall, carefully

place the first board in place. Use wedges or 1/2" scrap (see figure 4)
along the wall to hold plank in place while allowing the
required expansion space.

3. Align the next piece by slightly angling it up and against the

end first board, interlocking the tongue and groove by pushing
forward then down. (See figures 5, 6) Some slight adjustment of
the board may be necessary to assure a tight fit.

4. Again place wedges as necessary to restrain movement and

maintain expansion zone.

5. Continue in this manner until the first row is complete.
6. Cut the final board to length allowing the necessary expansion

zone.

7. Place wedges to restrain movement and maintain expansion zone.

Installing remaining rows

1. Begin the second row with the cut piece from the first row. If the

cut piece is shorter than 8" do not use it, instead begin with a new
board cut in half. (See figure 7)

2. Place the first board in place by angling it up slightly, pushing

forward and interlocking the side tongue. (See figure 7)

3. Carefully push the board down until tongue and groove lock

together. (See figure 9)

4. A slight tap with a nylon-tapping block may be necessary to

complete the interlock.

5. Restrain the movement of the board by installing a wedge in the

expansion zone.

6. Install the second board of the second row by first interlocking

the end followed by the side. It will be necessary to slightly angle
the edge to properly engage the tongue and groove and push
down. (See figures 9-11)

7. Install all remaining boards and rows in the same manner.
8. A slight tap with a nylon tapping block may be necessary to com-

plete the interlock.

9. Cut the last board to size, allowing for the expansion zone.
10. Interlock the side first followed by the end.
11. Complete the interlock by tapping the board into place with a

pull bar. (See figure 12)

12. Install all rows in the same manner.
13. Whenever practical, use cut pieces from previous rows as a starter

board to reduce waste.

14. Maintain 8"-12" spacing between end joints for best appearance.

(See figure 8)

Installing final row

1. The last row may need to be cut lengthwise (ripped).
2. Place the row of planks to be fit on top of the last row of installed

planks. Use a divider or a piece of plank as a scribe to trace the
contour of the wall.

3. Be sure to place a 1/2" spacer between the marker and the "scribe"

to allow for the expansion zone.

4. Mark where the board will be cut. If the fit of the wall is simple and

straight, just measure for the correct fit and cut.

5. After the last row is cut, use the pull bar to tighten the joint.

Installing under a door jamb:

1. Installations of locking engineered floors require that the lip of

groove be reduced in size. Failure to do so will result in an unsightly gap.

2. Using a small plane or knife plane, shave 75% of the ledge off the groove. (See figure 13)
3. After the groove edge has been trimmed place

the board into place and tighten with a pull bar to
test for fit.

4. If fit is incorrect trim as necessary.
5. Place a bead of VA wood glue along top edge of

tongue.

6. Reinsert tongue into groove and tighten board

with pull bar. Hold board into place with painters tape (3-M Blue Mask) until glue is dry. Do not
use masking tape or duct tape as the finish may be damaged.

Completing the installation

• Remove all wedges and tape if used.
• Install any transition pieces that may be needed, such as reducer strips, t-mouldings, or thresh-

olds. These products are available factory-finished to blend with your flooring.

• Re-install all base and/or quarter round mouldings. Nail mouldings into the wall, not the floor.
• Clean floor.
• Do not cover with a non-breathable material such as plastic.
• To prevent surface damage avoid rolling heavy appliances or furniture on the floor. Use ply-

wood, hardboard or air sleds or appliance lifts if necessary.

MOULDINGS

• Reducer Strip: a teardrop shaped moulding. Used around fireplaces, doorways, as a room

divider, or as a transition between Parquet and adjacent floor coverings that are less thick.
Fasten down with adhesive or double-faced tape.

• Threshold: a moulding undercut for use against sliding door tracks, fireplaces,

carpet, ceramic tile, or existing thresholds to allow for expansion space and to
provide a smooth transition in height difference. Fasten to subfloor with adhe-
sive and/or nails through the heel. Predrill nail holes to prevent splitting.

• Stair Nosing: a moulding undercut for use as a stair landings trim, elevated floor

perimeters, and stair steps. Fasten down firmly with adhesive and nails or screws.
Predrill nail holes to prevent splitting.

• Quarter Round: a moulding used to cover expansion space next to baseboards,

case goods, and stair steps. Predrill and nail to the vertical surface, not into the
floor.

• Combination Base and Shoe: a moulding used when a base is desired. Used to

cover expansion space between the floor and the wall. Predrill and nail into the
wall, not the floor.

• T-Moulding: a moulding used as a transition piece from one flooring to another

or to gain expansion spaces. Fasten at the heel in the center of the moulding.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4

Figure 5

Figure 6

2nd FLOOR

(above ground

level)

basement

1st FLOOR

(at ground level)

YES

YES

YES

Figure 7

Figure 8

Figure 9

Figure 10

Figure 11

Figure 12

Figure 13

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