© Lonely Planet Publications
130 www.lonelyplanet.com MITIARO " " History 131
HISTORY Rarotonga and New Zealand, along with
The history of Mitiaro (traditionally known the limited economic prospects for the is-
as Nukuroa) is bound up with nearby  Atiu land s younger generation. As on many of
Mitiaro and its warlike ways. Like Ma uke, the is- the outer islands, most of the population
land was repeatedly raided by  Atiuan war- is either under 18 or over 50, with almost
riors, but there are two particular battles no-one in between.
which are important in this island s his- However, since practically everyone on
tory. The first involves the arrival of an Mitiaro is a relative, there s a strong com-
The minuscule island of Mitiaro is one of the least visited of the Southern Group, and while
 Atiuan war party led by the legendary munity spirit and a high degree of coopera-
it might not have the glorious beaches or dramatic scenery of Aitutaki and Rarotonga, it s warrior Maui. In order to avoid bloodshed, tion. There s not much money around, but
the Mitiaroans threw a great feast to which agriculture and fishing produce abundant
still a rewarding island to visit. Home to just a couple of hundred people, and barely 6km
the  Atiuan warriors were invited, but the yields; there s a lot of sharing and everyone
across at its widest point, Mitiaro is a great place to get to grips with traditional culture.
Mitiaroans betrayed their guests and killed gets what they need. Most people on Miti-
The islanders still live in much the same way as their ancient ancestors, farming, fishing
them while they were grating coconuts for aro now live in Western-style houses, but
and trading with nearby islands (although these days they re helped by a few modern con-
the feast. The only survivor of the massacre usually have a few traditionally thatched
was Maui, who escaped the island and fled outbuildings used as cookhouses or fishing
veniences such as electricity and motor scooters). Like the other makatea (raised coral reef)
back to  Atiu. shacks. A few people even live in these tra-
islands, Mitiaro is riddled with deep caves, including the stunning underground pool of Vai
Fearing bloody retribution, the Miti- ditional huts  look out for the occasional
Nauri, but it also has plenty of history to explore  the remains of the only known fort in
aroan warrior Maaro constructed a strong- electricity meter hooked up onto the side of
the Cook Islands is hidden away in the makatea along the island s southern coast.
hold deep in the razor-sharp makatea  the a pandanus-roofed hut!
fort of Te Pare. Before long a huge war party Mitiaro has three ariki titles  To u,
from  Atiu arrived, led by the great ariki Tetava and Te Ma eu. Mitiaro, with Puka-
(chief) Rongomatane, and though the fort puka and Mangaia, differs from other Cook
initially proved a challenging obstacle for Islands in that there is no central land court;
the  Atiuans, Mitiaro s warriors were even- land is distributed by family agreement and
tually overcome. The small and declining when disputes arise, they re settled by the
population on Mitiaro today is thought to three ariki.
be almost entirely descended from raiding
 Atiuan warriors. ENVIRONMENT
The Reverend John Williams arrived on Mitiaro is tiny (just 6km across and 16km
Mitiaro on 29 July 1823 accompanied by in circumference) and astonishingly flat.
Rongomatane and the island was soon con- Like its sister islands nearby, Mitiaro is
verted to Christianity, and  Atiu officially ringed by a raised-coral, limestone outer
remained in control of Mitiaro until 1902, plain, the makatea, which rises to a max-
HIGHLIGHTS
when New Zealand established the Cook imum of 9m above sea level. The interior
Islands as an overseas protectorate. plantations on the island s central plateau
Taking a dip in Mitiaro s natural
Before Christianity arrived in Mitiaro, the are barely 3m higher than the makatea at
swimming pool, Vai Nauri (p133)
people lived in inland villages  Taurangi, their highest point; much of the interior
Visiting the ruins of the coral fort at
EEEE
Atai, Auta, Mangarei and Takaue. As oc- of Mitiaro is swampland, barely a metre
Te Pare (p133)
curred on Rarotonga, when the missionaries above the ocean s surface. Two parts of this
EEEE
Having a picnic at the island s largest
Foodlands came they moved the people out to the coast, swamp are deep enough to be considered
Vai Nauri
lake, Te Rotonui (p134)
where they built a village around the church. lakes: the prosaically named Te Rotonui
EEEE
The old village sites are now the plantation (Big Lake) and Te Rotoiti (Small Lake).
Cruising around Mitiaro s deserted
Te Rotonui
areas where the food is grown. Unlike Ma uke and  Atiu, Mitiaro has little
coastline (p133), either on foot or by
EEEE
coastal forest; much of the exterior makatea
scooter
THE CULTURE is surprisingly barren, home to only the
EEEE
Exploring the lush plantations, known
Even within the Cooks, Mitiaro is a tiny is- hardiest plants.
as the foodlands (p134), at the
land. Practically all the islanders are related
Te Pare
centre of the island
to one another, and everyone seems to have INFORMATION
Coastline
family here, there and everywhere, as well Electricity is available daily from 5am to
as on Ma uke,  Atiu, Rarotonga and fur- midnight, and 24 hours on Friday, Satur-
ther afield. Unsurprisingly, this can make day and Sunday. Make sure to bring plenty
finding a spouse rather difficult  the lack of cash with you, since it can be difficult
of decent marital material is one of the to change money on Mitiaro and you ll
POPULATION: 236 AREA: 22.3 SQ KM
main reasons for the population drain to find that many places don t accept credit
M I T I A R O
MITIARO
132 MITIARO " " Dangers & Annoyances www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MITIARO " " Sights & Activities 133
Mitiaro
0 1 km
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES has healing properties, especially for skin
MITIARO
0 0.5 miles
Beaches, Caves & Pools complaints such as eczema and psoriasis.
AC D
B
Mitiaro has some fine little beaches and at Vai Tamaroa s open-air pool is reached
low tide the reef is excellent for walking on by a tricky 15-minute walk across sharp
Auta
all the way around the island. Most of the makatea from the coast road; the start of
14
S O U T H
1 beaches are small and few are signposted, the track is marked by a fallen sign com-
Kaapoto P A C I F I C
so you ll have to keep your eyes peeled memorating a 1980s Boys Brigade project.
DDDDD
Okaraua DD
O C E A N Mangarei
3 13
Airstrip
while you re driving around the main The rough, uneven track is only rarely used,
Cemetery
2
1 coast track  the nicest is probably Tia ara so it s quite faint in places, but you can get
Orongomai
Okore
Omutu
Beach on the island s western side. The reef there without a guide if you take care to
Landing
11
is also generally very shallow, so don t plan watch the path. The pool is at the bottom of
on too much swimming or snorkelling. a deep circular hole with walls a good 10m
0 200 m
Having said that, Mitiaro is a fantastic high  apparently it s a popular swimming
0 0.1 miles
Tevaikuku
DDDDD
DD
10
place for a dip  but the best swimming spot with the locals, but how they manage
12 EEEEEEE
2
spots aren t in the encircling lagoon, but to climb out is anyone s guess. Mitiaro s
Kovea
Atai
Te Rotoiti
deep inland, hidden away in the rocky women hold their terevai gatherings (see
EEEEEEE
Auta
Taurangi
makatea. Mitiaro has some of the most the boxed text, p134) at both Vai Tamaroa
Omutu
Mangarei
Landing beautiful underground pools of any of the and Vai Nauri.
EEEEEEE
Atai & Auta 8
Southern Group islands. The water in Much of the makatea on Mitiaro is cov-
See Enlargement
DDDDD
DD
7
EEEEEEE the pools, as well as in the lakes and the ered by thick bush and sandalwood trees 
Akapa
Te Rotonui
INFORMATION
swamp, rises and falls with the tide, rid- you might come across a few locals taking
Administration Centre..............1 C1
EEEEEEE Parava
Mangarei Police Station.........................(see 1) ing on top of the saltwater lens beneath sandalwood cuttings on your way to the
9
Post Office.............................(see 1)
Cemetery
the island. caves. Vaia i, or Sandalwood Cave, in Miti-
Public Health Centre................2 D1
3 EEEEEEE
Telecom.................................(see 1) Best of all is Vai Nauri, Mitiaro s huge  nat- aro s north has a good freshwater swimming
Tia'ara
ural swimming pool on the eastern side of hole, but people rarely go there nowadays
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
EEEEEEE
Takaue
CICC........................................3 D1
DDDDD the island near the lakes. The deep, brilliant- because the track is difficult to find.
Takero Marae..........................4 B3
blue pool is found at the base of a large Tepito o Kare is a freshwater cave that was
4
Te Pare Fort & Marae..............5 B4
EEEEEEE
Tepito o Kare...........................6 B4
limestone cavern, decorated with stalac- often used as a drinking hole by fisher-
Vai Marere..............................7 A3
tites and tall pillars of brown rock. You can men returning from Te Unu Beach in days
6 Vai Nauri.................................8 C2
Vai Tamaroa............................9 C3
reach the water either by climbing down gone by.
5 Vaia'i.....................................10 B2
some rickety steps on one side and wading
Te Rua Te Pui Te Unu
SLEEPING
in, or by going around to the other side Marae & Fort
DDDDD
Nane's Homestay..................11 D2
4
Seabreeze..............................12 A2 and leaping off the 3m cliff, as the locals You ll need a guide to find Mitiaro s marae
kids do (screaming as you leap is apparently (ancient open-air meeting grounds) and his-
EATING
To 'Atiu (45km);
Rarotonga (280km) Te Kokenga Pa's Store...............................13 D1 compulsory). It s a fabulous, otherworldly torical sites, as most are on private land.
Pati's Store.............................14 D1
Oavea
To Ma'uke spot; floating in the silent cavern, listening Takero Marae is one of the few easily acces-
(75km)
to drops of water fall from the roof like sible marae on the island, on the inland road
rain, is a truly memorable experience. Then south of  town beneath an ancient chestnut
DDDDD
cards. There s no 24-hour public phone Administration Centre (near wharf ) again, when the local kids descend on the tree. This area is where the old Takaue vil-
but when Telecom is open you can make Police station (%36150, 36122) In the Administration cave after school and at weekends, you can lage used to stand. Casting around among
toll calls or Kia Orana card calls. Fresh Centre. throw any thoughts of peace and tranquil- the undergrowth you might find the huge
water on Mitiaro often gets mixed up with Post office (h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) In the lity out the window, so you might as well stone seat of the ariki, and there are several
saltwater, so you should avoid drinking Administration Centre. join in the fun. There s a dirt road right up old graves nearby.
water from the tap. Public health centre (%36120; h8am-4pm to Vai Nauri. Mitiaro s main historical site is the ru-
As on Ma uke, there are a few essential Mon-Fri) This small centre is east of the CICC, beside the A 10-minute walk from the village on ined Te Pare Fort , in the southwest of the
items to bring to Mitiaro: good walking community hall; emergency cases are sent by plane to the Takaue road, near Pape Neke s house, island, constructed as an impregnable de-
shoes, a torch (flashlight), industrial-strength Rarotonga. Vai Marere is the only sulphur pool in the fence against  Atiuan raids by the famous
mosquito repellent and some emergency Telecom (%36680; h8-10am & 1-3pm) In the Cook Islands. It s only just visible from the Mitiaroan warrior Maaro. Hidden and
food supplies. The food shops have a very Administration Centre. main road, but as you duck into the cave it protected by the surrounding makatea, the
limited selection of goods. broadens out into a gloomy cavern covered fort is built on top of an underground cav-
The island secretary (%36108; fax 36157) and DANGERS & ANNOYANCES with stalactites. The water is darker than ern where people congregated in times of
the mayor have offices in the Administra- Be prepared to ward off mosquitoes when in other pools, possibly due to the sulphur danger, while above was a lookout tower
tion Centre. Julian Aupuni (%36180) is Miti- you come to Mitiaro; much of the island is content, but it s refreshingly cool and the from which approaching canoes could be
aro s tourism officer  ask for him at the covered by either lake or soggy swampland, minerals make your skin and hair feel silky seen. It s thought that the coral walls of the
Administration Centre. providing an ideal breeding ground. soft after a dip. Locals swear that the water fort once stood at least 6m high, though
M I T I A R O
MITIARO
© Lonely Planet Publications
134 MITIARO " " Quirky Mitiaro www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MITIARO " " Tours 135
now only a few broken rocks and stones The cemetery on the island s north side ENTERTAINMENT
TEREVAI
remain. is the most interesting, with a few modern- Let s be honest  you don t come to Miti-
The women of Mitiaro have a grand old
Footsteps could be easily heard on the style cement tombs and older graves simply aro for the nightlife. There are occasional
custom known as terevai. On special oc-
fort s stone pathway, and Te Pare s small marked by an upright slab of coral. Another village events in the church hall in town,
casions, such as when family visits over
marae ensured there was spiritual as well cemetery, an easy walk south of town, also but otherwise, you ll be making your own
Christmas, a group of women get together
as physical protection. Nevertheless, a war has supplies left for the departed. If you re entertainment. A pack of cards might come
and go to one of the island s pools (Vai
party led by the  Atiuan chief Rongomatane on the island for Turama (All Soul s Day) in handy.
Nauri and Vai Tamaroa are the two favour-
found the fort by standing on tall Te Pooki on 1 November, you ll see many families
ites). On the way they sing the old bawdy
Ikei rock nearby. They attacked, standing making candlelit processions to lay flower SHOPPING
songs of their ancestors  many of them
on their war clubs to protect their feet from garlands and fragrant  ei on the graves. Mitiaro women make a variety of woven
the sharp makatea, and overpowered the de- action songs  with graphic movements ac-
pandanus products for everyday use, in-
companying the lyrics. The mood gets exu-
fenders. The current three ariki of Mitiaro TOURS cluding floor mats, table mats, fans, hand-
berantly racy and by the time the women
are descended from the foremost Mitiaro Julian Aupuni (%36180) Mitiaro s tourism officer is bags, baskets and the like. The artistic
warriors, appointed by the  Atiuan conquer- have trekked out to the pool, everyone
the only guide with permission to lead tours to Te Pare speciality of Mitiaro menfolk, on the other
is in high spirits. Once at the pool, order
ors to represent the three ariki of  Atiu. Fort. A short island tour is included in the NZ$30 price tag. hand, is carved wooden bowls. Sadly, none
reasserts itself, but only for a short while:
The only guide to Te Pare fort is Mitiaro s Papa Neke Leads tours around the island s main sights, of the islanders are particularly interested
a prayer, a hymn and a chant precede a
tourism officer, Julian Aupuni (opposite). and you ll also visit his beautiful inland retreat, with its or- in selling their wares. It s worth asking
wild, synchronised leap into the water. (At
chard and vegetable garden. He can be contacted through around just in case, but you ll probably be
Vai Tamaroa, only the nimble make the
Plantations Seabreeze (see below). out of luck.
leap, because it s a long, difficult climb
Mitiaro s most fertile soil is found inland in
back out.)
the peaty plantation areas near the island s SLEEPING & EATING GETTING THERE & AWAY
centre, known locally as foodlands. Back in Seabreeze (%36153; r per person NZ$75 incl meals) The Air
the old days, people set up their villages near longest-running (and for many years the Air Rarotonga (in town %36888; www.airraro.com)
to where they grew their food, but when tuna  local fishermen say some can reach only) visitor accommodation on the island, flies to Mitiaro three times per week on
houses were moved to the coast by mission- the thickness of a man s thigh. Milkfish, run by a local family on the outskirts of town. Monday, Wednesday and Friday. It costs
aries in the 1800s, families continued to use another renowned delicacy, are also plenti- There are a couple of rooms inside the main NZ$290 return. There are also occasion-
their old central plantation areas. Nowadays ful in the lakes, due to a Japanese project house and a spacious self-contained unit out ally direct flights to Mitiaro from Ma uke,
there are roads across the makatea to the stocking the lakes with fish brought from the back; the facilities are pretty basic, but but these only run when there s demand
plantations. The peaceful back roads and Aitutaki, Penrhyn and Hawaii. the welcome is very warm and there s a small for them.
lush plantations are well worth a look; you The only easy way to reach Mitiaro s store on site. Seabreeze rents out bicycles See p56 for details of travel agencies on
can easily drive there, although many people lakes is via the road leading right up to the (NZ$10 per day) and motorbikes (NZ$25) Rarotonga that can organise flights and
still make the long trip on foot. shore of Te Rotonui. There s a small clear- and can organises local tours. package deals to Mitiaro.
ing at the side of the lake shore that makes Nane s Homestay (%36107; s/d NZ$35/45) The
CICC a nice spot for a picnic and has great views only other place to stay on Mitiaro is with Boat
The white-painted CICC (Cook Islands across the silvery water. Nane Pokoati, a local mataiapo (head of a See p180 for details on inter-island cargo
Christian Church)  the third church the subtribe) and a bubbly, friendly host. There ship services among the Cook Islands.
London Missionary Society (LMS) built in QUIRKY MITIARO are no private rooms, just beds in a com- Stops at Mitiaro are often made in conjunc-
the Cooks  with its blue trim, stained-glass Look out for the graves around Mitiaro  munal sleeping area in Nane s large modern tion with visits to  Atiu and Ma uke.
windows and parquet ceiling decorated with many are festooned with some rather unu- house, but there s a large kitchen and all
black and white stars is a fine sight, and the sual decorations. Mitiaro has a tradition your meals will be cooked for you. Nane s GETTING AROUND
singing on Sunday is, as usual, superb. Mi- that the possessions of the deceased are left is a great option if you re looking to experi- Transfers from the airport will be provided
tiaro also has a small Catholic church and at their headstone. Most of the graves are ence village life on the island. by the people you re staying with. Motor-
an Assembly of God church. decorated with plates, bowls and cutlery so There are a couple of tiny stores on Mitiaro, bikes and bicycles can be rented from Sea-
that the spirit of the deceased can eat their but the supplies are very limited. Seabreeze s breeze, but you can walk around the whole
Lakes meals on their own dinnerware  sometimes shop has most of the essentials (and sells beer of Mitiaro on foot in about two hours (as
Mitiaro is also unique for its two lakes, you ll even see a full set of pots and pans. and ice-cream). Alternatively you could try long as you don t stop too often to admire
Te Rotonui (Big Lake) and Te Rotoiti (Small For a month or two after death, the family Pati s Store (%36003) or Pa s Store (%36155). the views).
Lake), home to the island s famous itiki lays food out at the graveside until it s felt
(eels). The eels  a local delicacy  are that the spirit has departed, but the plates
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
caught at night by blinding them with a and cutlery are left behind. Tin or enamel
light and then whacking them with a bush bowls and cups adorn older graves, while restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
knife. They can also be caught by baited newer ones have more modern plates and
only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
hooks, or by hooking them around the body cutlery  you ll also sometimes see graves
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
and hoisting them out of the water. Rather covered with medicine bottles and, poign-
confusingly, the larger eels are known as antly, the odd baby s bottle or tiny shoe. the above -  Do the right thing with our content.
M I T I A R O
MITIARO