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Dagging, Fig 24, Pl 4

Dagging appeared about the middle of the 14th century and continued into the early 15th (Cotehardies, Fig 2; Gowns, Fig 8). It was first seen round the capes of hoods, then on the hems of short cotehardies and sometimes on cloaks. It was morę common on men's dress. The huge open sleeves seen on some gowns were often edged with round or sąuare shapes.

24. Dagging

On hoods and some hems dagging would normally be left raw. Any lining can end before the dagging (at the broken lines), or the lining and outer fabric can be tacked and cut as one, and the edges overcast. On gowns with wide open sleeves and dagged hems the dagging would be edged with fancy stitching or narrow braid, or with the fur lining turned out to edge the shapes.

Decide the depth of the cut, 5-10 cm. At this depth measure the length to be dagged and mark regular divisions, 5-8 cm apart. Cut a template and draw round it on the cloth with tailor's chalk, checking the spacing before you cut.

a.    Simple shapes for hems and edges. Pl 4 shows a morę elaborate shape, suitable only for non-fraying cloth.

b.    Curved edges, such as the cape of a hood. The template is positioned on a guideline.

c.    Open sleeves of gowns generally have the dagging slanted downwards.

d.    Streamers for hanging from head wear or gown armholes. The central (leaf) pattern has additional cuts madę into each shape.

Platę 4. Dagged edge of chaperon in Pl 19

An elaborate shape madę in black broadcloth, which will not fray easily.

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