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The personal pattern Błock

This chapter shows how to make garments to fit an individual wearer. Two very different tech-niąues are used for cutting body garments, but the measurements you must take will serve as the basis for either:

a.    Planning directly front personal measurements This method is used for the simple shapes of linen undergarments, cotes and surcotes, and is explained in detail in the appropriate chapters. It consists of planning the pattern pieces from a set of personal measurements. The pieces are cut in paper or spare fabric first, though experienced workers may prefer to work directly on the cloth.

b.    Using a personal Błock The Błock is a personal bodice pattern, giving an exact fit from neck to waist or hip, combined with a set-in sleeve. The doublet and kirtle (main garments) are based closeły on the Błock, and the outer garments are developed from it.

The personal Błock is the main subject of this chapter. It is prepared in the following stages: measuring - modelling the toile - making and adjusting an intermediate pattern - making the Błock.

Notę on fitted garments

A medieval fitted garment had to touch every-where - waist, chest, shoulders, armpits - yet leave the wearer free to move. To the medieval tailor 'fit' meant something very different from today. As most modern clothing is mass-produced and looser, most people's clothes do not fit them so precisely, particularly around the armholes and shoulders, and a modern pattern cannot produce a convincing medieval garment. This offers a technical challenge, but with individually tailored garments the right level of fit is perfectly feasible.

A cutter today will notice major differences between a modern błock and the blocks shown here. A very smali amount of ease is allowed round the body, just enough for muscle movement. The armhole is high under the arm and the shoulder very narrow, so the ball-joint of the shoulder is inside the sleeve. Dropped armholes and wide shoulders were unknown. The sleeve is madę with the main seam at the back of the arm and with much morę length to the underarm than a modern sleeve. Women's garments do not have darts nor, for the most part, waist seams: the shaping is achieved in the lengthways seams.

Hose are madę by fitting on the body and have a chapter to themselves.

Measurements, Figs 1-3

The individual being fitted must be measured by someone else to ensure accuracy. Not all the measurements listed are needed for every garment, but it is useful to have a fuli set for reference. The measuring process will also help you absorb the wearer's physical characteristics. Once you have the list you can either go to the chapters covering garments planned directly (see above), or continue here through the various stages of producing a personal Błock.

Modelling a bodice toile

The toile is the fabric template used for making a personal Błock. 'Modelling' describes the process of fitting fabric round the body to produce a toile. Since the Błock provides the basis of every fitted garment madę for an individual it is well worth taking the time and trouble to get it right. As it is impractical to model a bodice on oneself, someone else must do the fitting and the instructions below are directed at that person. The wearer is referred to as the model. It may help to study first the finished Blocks in Figs 16-19, observing how they fit around the body, before starting. Do remember, however, that the Blocks illustrated were madę for particular individuals, so don't be surprised if yours looks different!

The modelling fabric for the toile must be woven, not knitted: light calico or sheeting is best, and used materiał will do. You need a tape measure, plenty of pins, a good pair of scissors, a ruler and a fine pen to mark the fabric.

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