89545 IMGR50 (2)

THE CENTRES OF PRO D U OTTON

f-hmtc- EjjjlSi «*** iow oooffici wich che Gai mer* (liccrally Aotb-makat, aUnagłi WMT* 35 rndudcd cmo and oeber kinds of smali leather goods) and the Mimw włio madę erjui pment for ehe drming-ablc as well as mirrors. Evcntually the duce gildi •namijgamaad. In i]af we hear of one Picrrc RoSen bcing paid £1* ił ód. for 'une [bonę] ... de cuir dorć. faictc i scmblablcs ouvraigcs morcsquc'¹ and. in 1558, of a jMyzncnc ao *Jchan Foucaule. dorcur sur cuir demouram A Paris en 1‘Howel de f4csXe ... la mmmm de jooJ c. sur cc en dćduction d*unc tentc de chambrc. £ute sur ćdr dr ■minm. argcmćc. fim£e ac figurde de rouge. pour $crvir en la chambrc du Roj. k itonmiir. .

Havard”s Dicńmmmrt dr VAmruklement mentions a number of inceresung om of kadm hattgwa/ftt For irauner, f*«»ł^rw dc Medici. when widowed in ij$9« causcd ułvtr and HkIi Icachcr hangmgs co be madę. In 1708 che anae-chamber of che Duchesse d*Orlcam had gde Icachcr wich a whicc ground *A festons dc fruńs cc guirlandcs dc fleiifi or cl md ct rouge avcc Bacchus, fćmmcs, harpics. enfkns drani des flćchcs, et oiscaux au naturci* (cC Place jó), whilc che Duc was supplied wich 'unc capiiieries dc cuir dorć, fond rouge avcc aiasgucs cc rainccau d'or, cc petis cnians cc oiscainc au nacurd . . Thesc would secm 10 be of a charactcnHically Flemish or Oucch kind, buc may havc bccn French. It fccmi tlui ng Icachcts wcrc at any race imported fiom Flanders, Holland. Italy and Spain: no doubc che impocts causcd coocem to che authocides, sińce import ducics wcrc ampoccd 00 mcm in iMf On che ochcr hand. chc gile Icachcr carpcc on a table at Kflkcnny Caak in 1&79 was ccrtainly Frcnch.^J

On January 7th 1695, chc Swcdish Hmissary Daniel Oronscróm wroce a Iciicr fiom Paris co Counc Tcssin in Scockholm advising on room fumishing and saying: 'Mon avu n*cac poinr dc mcubler la sallc dc cuir dorć, parce qu*il n*y en a point dc bon icy, comme *om ma’, which suggeses chat Parisian asir fort was noc co bc rccommcndcd. The Frcoch bshion seems co havc bccn co change chc Icachcr for something differem in summer, ac *n*csc point dc loute saison, du moim sdon la modc d’icy’.⁴

Of chc hiscory of chc Frcnch cordouan industry subscqucnc co che dńcrcssing siatę of chc (rade dasdored in chc Bondaroy Report co che Acadćmic in 1762 (scc page 16), link is known. Ic would secm chat production condnucd on a diminishing scalę umil che nineteenth ccncury bccausc, bccwccn 1811 and 1858, che sixth Dulce of Devomhire was ablc co havc madc by Bcrnhcim ct Cie of Paris, chc omate hangings chat still grace the State Bcdroom and chc Scacc Musie Room ac Ohacswonh. A series of pancls, acquircd by

' Cowperi óm imi plaadn do soi: fbL aS*® (Gaj $ ia).

*Campus dc Caihceinc dc Mcdacu: lok. Bi*⁹ and ya** (Gaf 316).

•Sccpiartfj.

* La jtlfite Arńttiptes entre Lm Parna a U SW4r. x<&j—171S, Niodłme Tasin Ir Jtmtr er Dmmi Owak. Cawylwr (csuacts ccfaed by O. A. Wapń and C. Hemmarck) Scockholm. 1904.