Paul HiWfj Student WrttfT
The greeting card inwtge of a snow-covered. peaceful Bethlehem at Chnstmas b painfully shaitered w hen the traveler tak es the 20-mriute laxi nde from Jenaalem
The temperaturę thi* time ot year is be’ ween 40 and 50 degrec* Frost doesnt arnve until around Jan «. the Greek <>rthodox Chnstmas. or even as lale as Jan IR. the day the Armeman Church celebrates Chnstmas Iruntcally. Oristrmis trees are rare in the buihplace o( Chnst. Instead. a large oJd c>press that grows in Manger Square is deeorated willi oołorfuł Tights and from it hangs a toudspeaker that plays taped carols. A favonte ts “O Little T<mn ot Bethlehem."
By Ouistmas Eve the "little town" is so crowded that motonsts fmd the closest they can park their cars is a mile or morę outside ot town. where they must leave their caiS and hike into the city Yfcelł o\er 20.000 visit Rethlehem for the Chnstmas celehration.
Outching the Bibie as a guidebook. a pilgnm can foiłow the footsteps ot Jesus from th< Syuan highiandś through Israels ho\,ings in (ialilee to the Samaria of .Krupied Jordan. even out intothe lunety Sinai Drsert where Mary and Joseph fied from King Herod wilii the newborn infant Much of the larnkcape s still as it was when Jesus saw it
Throughout the day. pilgnms tuvel the Via Dolorosa-the road between the Pretorium where Jesus was coodemned o> Fhlot. to Cahary. where he carried the cross he was crucified on !t is a short walk to Calvary. not morę than a thousand pace*
Today C;«karv is a marketpłace. and the pifgnms dont attract a second glanee as they pa u*-', to kneel and pray at the 14 s*arrans af ;ne cross that highiight the tragic events tofd in the gospel Arab merchants sell felafels. which are chick peas in pita bread In the open cafe. Araba sip jei btack coffee from tiny cups and puff on water pipes that they rent by the half hour.
lmmersed in their prayers. the ptlgrims don t hear the chanting mu*»zzin from a nearby minaret loudspeaker. calling the faithful to pray er in the mostjue The pilgnmage ends at the Church ot the Hoły Sepulchre. the site at which schulars believe Jesus was crucified. entombed and resurrected By 5 p m the town » jammed with vtsitors Protestant services begm at the YVCA in Shepherd s Field Most of th worshippers are Amencans. and the senice is traditionally followrd by a barbeeued lamb cbnner An Anglican service. the only one of the year to t»e offered in the Church of
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the N.umty. is held in a courtvard between 8 and 9 p ir.
,A» 10 30. 1.600 foreign visitors begm filing »nto St Cathennes. the Franciscan church that is part of the Church of the NaUvity oompłex The seats fili ouickly. and 7.lx©overflow mto the corndors to listen to the service on toudspeaker*
At midnight Bethlehem s church bells r.r.g out and 'hnstmas mass begins At 130. the mayor joins a pr>»cession from the church through a passageway tunneled through the rock to the grotto oi the nativity.
A rock cave the hirth place ot Jesus, was once a stat+e for an inn. it is marked as the .«''ene by a silver star encased in th* marbie ftoór A few feet awav. at the aitar of the Magi. a pnest ptaces a facsimile of the infant at the site of the manger.
The celehration is now officiaiły over. but the voices of the pilgnms can be heard on thestreets as tatę as 4 a m.
The town lives only hecause of the tounsm which has steadily mereased each year. Everythmg from hotels to smali shops is named after some aspect of the oatmty or passion of Chnst ł>ome things. though. don t change— like the olive tr^es in the surrounding fieltłs The trees ure centunes ołd. their thiok łrunks tuisted with age At nightfall. shepherds still make their way through tiie fields on the outskirts of town as they hnve for over 2.<X«> years haitmg to let their flocks fced as the sun sets
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We will be open r daring break except from Dec. 25-Jan. 1
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549-8222
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A boufique devoted exctusivety to imports. Visit us for p+osont. folk and tmbroiderrd dressew. »ilk scarvet. hond bogs. hond blocked spreads. camel skin lampt, jewelry. mgs and parophernalu.
306 5 Illinois Fh 457-W13
Open Mon.-Sof 9 00-6 00 Sundoy 12 00 4 00
smciai christmas hours