tmta9

15

15. From toile to Błock

The dotted lines are the fitting lines of the two halves of the toile, as it came off the figurę. The fine vertical lines are the Centre Front and Centre Back lines, as marked on the toile. The solid linę is the trial outline for the intermediate pattern, drawn from the toile but taking account of the model's measurements. Notę how much higher the finał armhole is than on the toile.

Marking fitting lines - After removing the toile from the model, lay it on a fiat surface. With a fine marker or soft pencil, draw all the fitting lines on the toile by following the lines of pins. Make balance (alignment) marks on the side seams at waist level. Check you have marked both sides of every fitting linę before taking out the pins. At this point the toile, with the Front and Back folded vertically, may be irregular like the dotted outlines.

Transferring fitting lines onto paper - If the toile materiał is light enough, mark through it with a fine pen or sharp pencil. Otherwise cut along the fitting lines and draw round the edges. Remember to label each piece of the toile, e.g. 'Left Front', 'Right Back', etc. Draw lines in pencil to allow for corrections.

From toile to Błock, Fig 15

Transferring the toile to paper _CF You will need large sheets of pattern paper.

This is firm and semi-transparent, either plain or marked with a grid, and can be found at a haberdasher, though brown paper can be used. A long ruler and set-square are also useful.

The intermediate pattern Tracę the trial outline of Back and Front (for women), or Back and Front, and Back and Front hip sections (for men), onto a fresh sheet of pattern paper. Add seam allowances and cut out the pieces in a new piece of calico or sheeting. Tack or machinę these together and try it on the model, pinning it firmly closed down the Centre Front. If you prefer to cut out the paper pieces without seam allowances, you can add them on the fabric before cutting.

Look carefully at the fit. Is it smooth over the whole torso, with no significant wrinkles? Do the armholes follow the shape of the moving shoulder joint, without sagging or gaping, and do they come right under the armpit, without dragging under the arm? Does the neckline follow the base of the neck? Make any necessary adjustments.

Back - Rule a vertical linę longer than the toile on a sheet of pattern paper, close to the left edge, and mark this 'CB' (Centre Back). Centre the Back of the open toile on this linę and transfer the fitting lines of the right half onto the paper. Turn the toile over and re-centre the Back on the linę. Transfer the fitting lines from the left half of the Back on top of the Right Back. Front - Rule another vertical linę, for the Centre Front, on the right of the paper, leaving enough space to transfer both Fronts to the left of this linę. Transfer as for the Back.

Checking measurements - Compare the dimensions of the toile, now on paper, with the model's listed chest/bust, waist and hip measurements. The toile sizes should be about 5 cm larger (up to 10 cm on very large sizes) to allow for ease; a woman's waist should have 8 to 10 cm ease.

Trial outline - Draw a trial outline from the two dotted versions, smoothing out the irregularities. Check that the shoulder lines are the same length on Back and Front. Make the Underarm Point (UP) higher rather than lower, as it is hard to cut it high enough on the model. On women's patterns (Fig 18) it is often useful to move some of the hip shaping on the Back from the side seam to the Centre Back, beyond the Centre Back linę.

29