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Hose

Ali forms of leg covering in generał use were known as hose, and all hose covered at least the lower leg. Many enclosed the feet as well, and some reached right up the leg to become joined hose - a form sometimes likened to tights. In practice it is better to think of separate hose as a pair of heavy stockings (Figs 1-3), and joined hose as very close-fitting trousers (Pl 9). The close fit was achieved by modelling the hose pattern as a toile on the wearer - a process similar to that described for personal Blocks - and maximum 'stretch' obtained by cutting the woollen cloth on the bias.

Women's hose

Women wore short separate hose (Figs 3, 4b) held up by garters just below the knee. These usually had plain feet for wear with shoes.

Men's hose

Separate (stocking) hose Up to the late 14th century all hose consisted of two separate legs. The early form (Figs 1, 4a) fitted closely up to the knee, then widenea, the front rising to a point with a button on it. Such hose were worn with loose braies (Fig 1) which were tucked into the hose. A breech-girdle supporting the braies (Braies, Fig 1) also held up the hose by a loop of cord passed round the button. This was sometimes supplemented by garters.

From about mid 14th century the hose could be tied to the doublet by laces fpoints'), stitched inside the doublet (Doublets, p. 94) and tied through eyelets at the top of the hose. Hose soon became longer and morę closely fitted round the thighs (Fig 4c). Separate hose continued to be worn throughout the 15th century by workmen, and by older men with long gowns.

Separate hose without feet, like leggings, were often worn by peasants. They were slightly loose and were held on by garters at the calf and ankle. They could also be worn over another pair of hose for warmth. 'Boot hose', an extra pair of hose worn inside long riding boots, were used in the 15th century. Different combinations were used to suit the wearer's needs.

Joined hose

These were probably introduced before 1400. They were much harder to cut and fit well than separate legs, and how widely they were worn is uncertain. Joined hose were madę with a codpiece, and were usually worn with a shorter doublet reaching to hip length or above (Pl 11).

Joined hose were commonly worn with shoes, using stirrups - a simple loop of cloth under the foot - to maintain the tension. The most elegant joined hose with fuli feet had leather soles and were worn without shoes. Pattens (see below) were worn over them out of doors. These hose were not used for working dress as their tight fit restricted the wearer's movements.

1.    Late 13th century, English

Thresher in blue shirt and white coif. Ankle boots and separate (stocking) hose which are drawn up over loose braies or a breech clout and secured at the front. (English calendar, Bodleian Library, Oxford, MS Corpus Christi, 285, f.6v)

2.    c.1465, Flemish

Mason at work with separate (stocking) hose unlaced from his doublet. His braies fit morę closely than their earlier counterparts. Stylish acorn cap. (Histoire de Charles Martel, Bibliotheque Royale, Brussels, MS6, f.554v).

3.    Late 15th century, French

Woman being pulled by the hair, revealing her hose and shoes. Russet gown worn over white smock, with black hose held up by garters (Roman de la Rosę, Bodleian Library, Oxford, MS Douce 195, f.66v).

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