35492 tmta7

1

1

Basic kirtle

2. Basic kirtle, iater 14th century onwards The shape follows the personal bodice Błock, and two different sleeve styles are shown. The body is cut in four panels with the skirt flaring from the hips and laced at the front from neckline to hip. The neck is cut fairly Iow, though it would be higher for older women, and should be adjusted to match the garment worn over it. It was often filled with a kerchief or wimple. The plain sleeve, from the sleeve Błock, is fastened with one or morę buttons.

3. Bodice for Fig 2

Tracę the personal Błock and ensure that the neckline ot the kirtle matches that ot the garment to be worn over it and plan low-necked styles together. Several alternatives to the plain kirtle neckline are given.

a. Basic or working kirtle with a plain neckline. Lower the back and front necklines: by 5 cm at CB, from NP at the shoulder and 10 cm at the CF. These measurements will vary with the wearer.

Mark the waist level clearly -it is needed for planning the skirts. Mark the centre ot the waistline on Front and Back and rule the SG linę through this point as shown. Use this linę as the construction linę to plan the skirts and use the thin lines at the sides as a guide for the flarę.

continued overleaf

87